C'est la Vie by Christian Lacroix c1990

C'est la Vie by Christian Lacroix, launched in 1990 by Dior Parfums, embodies the designer's penchant for drama and joie de vivre. The name itself, "C'est la Vie", is a quintessential French phrase meaning "that's life" or "such is life." Pronounced as "say lah vee", it carries an air of nonchalant acceptance, optimism, and an embrace of life's unpredictability. The phrase evokes imagery of Parisian café culture, the vibrancy of a bustling city, and a carefree attitude toward life’s pleasures and challenges. Its sentiment aligns perfectly with Lacroix's exuberant style and flair for celebrating the moment.

The 1990s, a time of significant cultural and societal shifts, provided the backdrop for this launch. Known as a transitional era, it saw the rise of minimalism in fashion, but also bursts of opulence and individuality on the runway. Supermodels reigned supreme, and designers like Lacroix pushed the boundaries of boldness and theatricality. Perfumes during this time often reflected a dichotomy between traditional femininity and the burgeoning modernity of the era. Women were embracing a blend of classic elegance and contemporary independence, and a fragrance called "C'est la Vie" would resonate as a confident declaration of living life authentically.

Crafted by Edouard Fléchier, the fragrance is classified as a spicy floral oriental, a sophisticated blend of florals and warm amber. It strikes a balance between timeless charm and modern audacity, offering a composition that feels both familiar and daring. The spicy floral notes nod to classic French perfumery, while the oriental amber harmony adds a sensual, contemporary edge.

During its release, the perfume industry was experiencing a fascination with bold, statement-making fragrances. While C'est la Vie carried elements in line with the trends of the era, such as its oriental undertones and rich complexity, it also stood out for its vibrant, optimistic name and its association with Lacroix's theatrical fashion. Women of the time would likely have embraced the scent as an extension of Lacroix’s couture—a wearable piece of art that celebrated their individuality and zest for life.

The fragrance remains a reflection of its era: a time of contrasts, where tradition met innovation, and the simple yet profound phrase "C'est la Vie" encapsulated the spirit of living boldly and beautifully.

European Launch:

The European launch of C'est la Vie, Christian Lacroix's debut fragrance, was nothing short of a spectacle befitting the designer’s flair for theatricality. The launch event took place at the Opera Comique, an elegant and historically rich theatre nestled off the Boulevard des Italiens in Paris. Known for its ornate architecture and intimate setting, the venue perfectly mirrored the opulent and artistic ethos of Lacroix. To ensure maximum impact, Lacroix flew members of the international press to Paris, treating them to a lavish and immersive unveiling of the perfume.

The fragrance marked a significant milestone for Christian Lacroix, being the first launched under his label as part of the Financière Agache group. Developed and distributed by LVMH's Parfums Christian Dior, the project represented a collaboration between high fashion and luxury fragrance. As the majority owner of the Christian Lacroix brand, Parfums Christian Dior infused the venture with their expertise in perfumery, ensuring that "C'est la Vie" carried both the quality and prestige of its associated names.

Christian Lacroix spared no expense in bringing his vision to life. With a staggering $40 million advertising budget, the campaign was as bold and extravagant as the designer himself. This investment underscored the importance of the fragrance not just as a product, but as a defining element of the Lacroix brand. The promotional strategy likely included high-profile print campaigns, glamorous events, and partnerships with influential figures, all designed to capture the attention of a global audience and position "C'est la Vie" as an iconic scent.

The choice of Paris as the launch location, coupled with the grandeur of the Opera Comique, highlighted the cultural and artistic roots of the fragrance. The event itself, along with the substantial marketing push, positioned "C'est la Vie" as a statement piece, embodying Lacroix's exuberant spirit and commitment to luxury. This debut firmly established Christian Lacroix not just as a fashion visionary but as a significant player in the world of high-end perfumery.

American Launch:

The U.S. launch of C’est La Vie, Christian Lacroix’s first fragrance, was an unforgettable affair that epitomized the designer’s love for drama and grandeur. The event, reportedly costing $550,000, was held in 1990 at the iconic Palladium nightclub in New York City. It was attended by 400 carefully selected guests, including fashion aficionados and notable figures like philanthropist Blaine Trump, artist Julian Schnabel, former Ambassador to France Evan Galbraith and his wife Marie, and Lacroix’s muse, the striking silver-haired model Marie Seznec.

The evening was filled with spectacular performances that highlighted the artistic essence of Lacroix’s brand. French ballerina Sophie Guillem delivered an elegant interpretation of "Bolero", accompanied by a troupe of 40 male dancers on a custom-built, technically advanced stage. The program was emceed by actor Tony Randall, whose charisma set the tone for the evening, which concluded with a lavish, catered dinner for the distinguished attendees.

Christian Lacroix described C’est La Vie as a fragrance deeply rooted in memory and nostalgia, calling it "nostalgia made from souvenirs." He credited Maurice Roger, the chairman of Parfums Christian Lacroix and Parfums Christian Dior, with coining the evocative name. The phrase "C’est La Vie" (“That’s life” in French, pronounced seh lah vee) was an apt choice, reflecting the ups and downs of the creative process, during which they often had to start over.

The scent itself is a floral bouquet, showcasing key notes of orange blossom and syringa, a white-flowering shrub native to Lacroix’s beloved Provence. These elements imbued the fragrance with a sense of sun-drenched elegance and timeless charm. The bottle design was equally captivating, reflecting Lacroix’s signature aesthetic. Made of crystal, it featured curvaceous, feminine lines and was crowned with a striking pink stopper shaped like a coral branch, evoking the natural beauty of the Mediterranean. The packaging, in pink, bright yellow, and black, further emphasized the designer’s bold and colorful vision.

Set to hit shelves in September 1990, C’est La Vie was available at exclusive retailers like I. Magnin, Bullock’s, and Robinson’s. The pricing reflected its luxury status, with just over an ounce of perfume retailing for $163 and 1.7 ounces of eau de toilette priced at $43. This exquisite debut fragrance was not only a celebration of Lacroix’s artistic spirit but also a testament to the fusion of fashion and perfumery, capturing the designer’s essence in every drop.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. A blend of classic and contemporary floral notes with an amber harmony.

• Top notes: aldehydes, seringa, pineapple, cassia, raspberry, osmanthus, peach, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, carnation, tuberose, orris, sandalwood, orange blossom, rose, violet
• Base notes: amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean

C'est la Vie!, Christian Lacroix's first fragrance, is a masterful blend of contrasts, much like his bold and theatrical fashion designs. Drawing upon the long-standing tradition of the floral-oriental accord, this fragrance weaves together warm, comforting base notes with lively, spirited florals. The base is anchored in a rich, sensual foundation of amber, which exudes a warm, resinous glow, enveloping the wearer in a soft, golden embrace. The vanilla adds a creamy sweetness, softening the amber's intensity and creating a feeling of luxurious warmth. The smooth, woodsy richness of sandalwood adds depth and sensuality, while musk contributes a lingering, animalic warmth that feels intimate and enveloping. Together, these elements create a warm, lingering backdrop that serves as the fragrance's grounding core.

Layered over this foundation is a bouquet of floral notes that are both vibrant and delicate, adding a freshness and liveliness to the fragrance. Jasmine is the centerpiece, its rich, heady aroma adding an opulent floral depth, like the feeling of walking through a blooming garden at dusk. Violet adds a powdery, sweet touch, bringing an air of classic elegance. The creamy sweetness of ylang-ylang blends seamlessly with the fresh, slightly green floral notes of heliotrope, which add a gentle sweetness that isn't overpowering but rather soft and comforting. The classic romance of rose weaves through the fragrance, giving it a timeless quality, while orange blossom contributes a honeyed, slightly citrusy freshness that lifts the entire composition.

In its balance of warm, sensual base notes and lively, feminine florals, C'est la Vie! evokes the spirit of iconic floral-oriental fragrances such as Guerlain's Après l'Ondée (1906) and L'Heure Bleue (1912). Like these classics, Lacroix's scent blends nostalgia with modern flair, drawing on the deep, lingering warmth of amber and vanilla, while refreshing it with the brightness and sweetness of florals. The resulting fragrance is a celebration of contrasts, where the traditional floral-oriental formula is infused with Lacroix's unmistakable touch of audacity and originality.

 

Scent Profile:

C’est La Vie opens with an invigorating burst that immediately captures your attention, with aldehydes sparkling like a fresh breeze on a warm summer day. Their sharp, metallic edge fades as the sweet and creamy floral notes of seringa emerge, reminiscent of soft white blooms in the sunlight. The light, juicy pineapple mingles with the tart brightness of cassia and a hint of wild raspberry, bringing a lively, tangy sweetness to the composition. 

A delicate, almost apricot-like note of osmanthus weaves in, along with the velvety, ripe fullness of peach, creating a vivid, sun-kissed fruitiness. Finally, bergamot adds a burst of citrus that refreshes the air, blending perfectly with the floral and fruity notes, like the first light of dawn breaking through a dewy garden.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blooms into a lush, multifaceted floral bouquet. The sweet, intoxicating scent of jasmine envelops you, its soft floral scent reminding you of moonlit nights in an open field. The light, powdery scent of heliotrope mingles with the warm, heady, and slightly spicy richness of ylang-ylang, transporting you to tropical gardens. 

Carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like warmth, which softens as tuberose unfurls, adding a creamy, intoxicating opulence. A whisper of orris provides a cool, almost violet-like powderiness, while the delicate, honeyed note of orange blossom deepens the heart with its sweetness. Rose contributes a soft, classic romance to the blend, while violet adds a powdery, slightly woody depth, rounding out the heart of the fragrance with its calm, green floral notes.

The base of C’est La Vie brings warmth and sensuality, beginning with amber, which exudes a rich, resinous glow that is both sweet and slightly smoky. Patchouli adds an earthy, woody depth, with a slight herbal edge that pairs beautifully with the rich musk, providing an animalic warmth that lingers on the skin. Benzoin contributes a balsamic sweetness, while vanilla adds a creamy smoothness, enveloping the fragrance in a comforting, sweet warmth. 

Cedar introduces a dry, woody base, grounding the scent with its slightly smoky, resinous undertones. Finally, the warm richness of sandalwood complements the composition, lending its soft, creamy woodiness that lingers, as tonka bean provides a delicate, sweet nuttiness that wraps up the scent with a soft, comforting embrace. Together, the base notes create a lasting harmony, leaving behind a trail of warmth, sensuality, and timeless elegance.

 

Bottle:

The C’est la Vie! fragrance by Christian Lacroix is housed in a strikingly unique and evocative bottle, designed to echo the bold, artistic sensibilities of Lacroix’s fashion creations. The bottle itself is stylized in the shape of a heart, symbolizing the fragrance's passionate and romantic appeal. The amber-hued glass, with its warm, golden tones, radiates a sense of timeless luxury and femininity, capturing the essence of the fragrance within. The heart-shaped design evokes feelings of love and emotion, while the color of the glass adds an element of warmth and depth, like the rich, amber base notes that linger in the scent.

Adding a modern, luxurious twist, the bottle is fitted with a black plastic collar that mimics the appearance of onyx or jet. This touch creates a contrast between the rich warmth of the amber glass and the cool, dark sophistication of the collar, symbolizing the balance between the warmth of the floral-oriental composition and the cooler, more mysterious undertones of the fragrance. The plastic cap, designed to resemble a coral branch, further enhances the sense of organic beauty and intricate design, adding a sculptural element to the bottle. The coral motif ties into the concept of nature and life, grounding the fragrance in the richness of both the natural world and the creativity of Lacroix's artistic vision.

The fragrance is packaged in a vibrant "hot rose" pink box, which immediately catches the eye with its bold, energetic color. The box is lined with a rich golden yellow, creating a striking contrast that feels both luxurious and warm. Lacroix’s signature black-and-gold tracery decorates the box, adding an element of elegance and sophistication. The tracery, which reflects Lacroix’s penchant for bold yet intricate designs, brings the packaging to life and underscores the high-end, couture nature of the perfume.

In 1996, the design of the bottle sparked much conversation. One French magazine famously described the bottle as looking like "a heart transplant," drawing attention to its unconventional, almost organic appearance. This description, while perhaps an unusual comparison, hints at the life and energy captured in the design—suggesting that the bottle, much like the fragrance itself, was infused with emotion, vitality, and a sense of vitality. The unique combination of modern, luxurious materials and intricate, nature-inspired design elements reflects the bold, creative vision of Lacroix, turning the perfume bottle into an object of both beauty and conversation.

The gilt metal purse atomizer bottle designed to hold C’est la Vie parfum is a truly exquisite example of functional art. The bottle takes the form of a coral branch, with delicate tendrils and intricate detailing that mimic the natural shapes found in coral reefs. The smooth, sinuous curves of the coral evoke an organic, almost fluid movement, as if the branch is alive and reaching out. This design element ties seamlessly with the coral branch-shaped cap of the fragrance bottle, reinforcing the theme of nature, life, and vitality that permeates the C’est la Vie collection.

The gilt metal finish enhances the luxury of the bottle, with a subtle, radiant golden glow that suggests opulence and sophistication. This gilded sheen gives the atomizer a timeless appeal, much like the glistening surface of a precious heirloom. Despite its small size, the bottle commands attention with its ornate design, which perfectly complements the bold and rich character of the fragrance it holds.

Patented in 1990, this refillable atomizer was designed for the discerning fragrance lover who valued both elegance and practicality. Holding just one-quarter ounce of parfum, it was the ideal accessory for those who wished to carry a touch of luxury wherever they went. The small size makes it both portable and convenient for everyday use, while the refillable feature ensures that this beautifully crafted piece could be cherished and used repeatedly, elevating the experience of wearing C’est la Vie with every spray.

Overall, the atomizer was not only a functional piece but also a statement of taste and refinement. The combination of its intricate design, durable materials, and practical refillable mechanism ensured that it was both an accessory of beauty and a testament to the lasting appeal of the C’est la Vie fragrance.

C’est la Vie was offered in a comprehensive and elegant range of formats, ensuring that every element of the fragrance experience could be tailored to the preferences of its wearers. The collection included both perfume and lighter eau de toilette options, along with an array of complementary body care products that allowed customers to indulge in a full sensory experience.

The 0.25 oz Refillable Parfum Purse Spray, housed in the signature golden branch-shaped atomizer, was a particularly distinctive offering. This small yet luxurious atomizer allowed users to carry their fragrance with them wherever they went, providing convenience without sacrificing elegance. The 1 oz Parfum and 1.7 oz Parfum Spray options provided fuller sizes for those who desired a more lasting supply of the rich, complex fragrance. The 0.13 oz Eau de Parfum mini was a perfect travel companion, offering a portable version of the perfume in a sleek, compact form. Larger bottles of 1.7 oz, 3.4 oz, and 6.8 oz Eau de Toilette were also available, offering various levels of concentration and volume to cater to different needs.

Alongside the signature fragrance, the ancillary products, launched in 1991, provided a seamless way to incorporate C’est la Vie into every aspect of daily routine. The 200ml Gel Douceur Pour les Bain et la Douche (Perfumed Bath & Shower Gel) enveloped the skin in a light, fragrant lather, making every shower or bath a moment of indulgence. Paired with the 200ml Lait Subtil Pour Le Corps (Perfumed Body Milk), which offered a softening and hydrating experience, the fragrance could be layered onto the skin for a more lasting and intimate scent. For those desiring an even richer level of indulgence, the 200ml Creme Voluptueuse (Perfumed Body Cream) provided deep nourishment, leaving skin silky smooth and subtly scented. The 5 oz Poudre Velours a la Corps (Perfumed Dusting Powder) offered an elegant finishing touch, lightly dusting the skin with a delicate fragrance.

For the ultimate in freshness, C’est la Vie also came in a Deodorant Spray, ensuring that the wearer could enjoy the fragrance throughout the day with an added layer of confidence. Finally, the 100g Coeur de Beaute (Perfumed Soap) provided a luxurious, scented cleanse, elevating the daily ritual of bathing into a moment of beauty and indulgence.

Each product was thoughtfully designed to enhance the wearer's experience of C’est la Vie, making it a complete lifestyle scent rather than simply a perfume. From the compact purse spray to the luxurious body lotions, the range provided a way to fully immerse oneself in the warm, floral-oriental notes that defined this iconic fragrance.

 

Mirabella, 1991:

"Saks Fifth Avenue - C'est la vie!, the spirited fragrance sensation from Christian Lacroix, now only at Saks Fifth Avenue. New body and bath collection including lotion, creme, bath and shower gel, powder and soap."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Introduced in 1990, C'est la Vie was an ambitious fragrance that, despite its glamorous introduction and the support of high-profile backers, failed to make a lasting impact. The perfume was launched by renowned fashion designer Christian Lacroix and was backed by LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy), a powerful player in the luxury goods market. However, despite the significant investment and high hopes, C’est la Vie quickly disappeared from the market by late 1991, becoming an example of a costly failure in the perfume industry.

In Chandler Burr's book, The Perfect Scent, he describes the fragrance’s downfall, pointing to the timing of its release. Lacroix had just launched his haute couture house, and LVMH had great expectations for the fragrance's success. However, the perfume, which had been launched with great fanfare, did not resonate with consumers in the way LVMH had hoped. The disparity between the high hopes and the actual reception of the product led to its quick retreat from the market.

The New York Times Magazine of 1991 noted the swift decline of C’est la Vie, stating that the fragrance "retreated from 600 venues just months after it hit the marketplace," a clear sign of the product's failure to find a lasting presence in stores. Similarly, Forbes reported that Christian Lacroix's fragrance caused a significant financial loss, estimating that the U.S. alone saw a loss of $10 million to $12 million. The perfume industry is notoriously volatile, and its fickle nature meant that C’est la Vie was unable to achieve the kind of lasting success that would justify the large investment it had received.

In National Geographic Magazine, a 1998 article reflected on the significant losses of the fragrance industry, highlighting the $40 million that was reportedly lost on C’est la Vie. The perfume's failure became a symbol of how even a brand as iconic as Christian Lacroix could struggle in a market where trends shift quickly, and consumer tastes can be difficult to predict.

Ultimately, despite its promising start and the luxurious branding surrounding it, C’est la Vie stands as a cautionary tale in the perfume industry, illustrating the unpredictable nature of fragrance launches and the substantial risks involved in trying to capture the public's imagination in such a competitive market.