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Vintage Perfumes For Sale

Friday, April 26, 2013

Mousseline by Marcel Rochas c1946

Mousseline was launched in 1946 by Marcel Rochas, created by Edmond Roudnitska.

My belief is that Marcel Rochas designed this perfume after a more famous Victorian era perfume as well as the name of a fabric. Since he was a fashion king, naming one of his perfumes after a type of fabric was suitable and clever.



A highly esteemed plant is Vetiveria zizanioides, belonging to the grass family, which forms a thick rhizomatous root, and releases the same violet scent as orris.When powdered, it is known as vetivert, or khus-khus. From the roots, the Eastern perfume Mousseline is made, taking its name from Indian muslin which at one time was treated with the perfume before being despatched to European markets to help keep the fabric from being eaten by moths. When Victoria became Empress of India, the scent took on a special significance and a perfume called mousseline des Indes. This famous European perfume contained vetiver, along with sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, thyme and rose. 

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women, very feminine, warm and lasting.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, orange blossom, violet leaves, bergamot, cloves, carnation, black pepper
  • Middle notes: carnation, plum, orris, Taif rose, jasmine, hyacinth, lavender, mimosa
  • Base notes: lichens, labdanum, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, cistus, musk, ambergris and sandalwood

Bottles:


It was housed inside of the amphora shaped crystal flacon that was used first by Rochas' Femme perfume just a few years before. But for Mousseline it was dressed up with a yellow box covered with gilded or black Chantilly lace pattern.

It was also available in cologne form.

Mousseline's packaging was associated with the color yellow, while Femme was white, Moustache was gray, Mouche was blue and La Rose was pink.

The little oval purse flacon is yellow opaline covered in black Chantilly lace, it has brass hardware and housed inside a black silk faille pouch that looks like a coin purse, this set can be hard to find for this particular fragrance.

The cylindrical purse flacon is also a rarity, it is either yellow opaline glass or yellow ceramic with black lace exterior.








The Fate of the Fragrance:


Mousseline is a discontinued fragrance, I am not sure when it finally ceased to be manufactured, but it was still being sold in 1975.



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