Ambre de Delhi by Babani c1921

In the early 20th century, the Western world was enthralled by the exotic allure of the Orient, India, and all things associated with these distant lands. This fascination was fueled by the mysteries, opulence, and perceived romance of these cultures, which were often depicted in literature, art, and emerging media like film. The year 1921, when "Ambre de Delhi" by Babani was launched, was a period marked by this cultural phenomenon, known as Orientalism. This was a time when Western society was captivated by the intricate artistry, rich tapestries, and the enchanting scents of spices and resins from the East. The luxury and mystique of these regions provided a stark contrast to the austerity and hardship experienced in the West, particularly in the aftermath of World War I.

The name "Ambre de Delhi" translates to "Amber of Delhi" in English. Ambergris, a rare and valuable substance produced by sperm whales, had been a coveted ingredient in perfumery for centuries due to its rich, sweet, and musky scent. By associating the perfume with Delhi, one of India's most historic and culturally rich cities, Babani tapped into the Western romanticization of India as a land of grandeur, spirituality, and sensory opulence. The choice of the name "Ambre de Delhi" was deliberate, aiming to evoke the exoticism and timeless beauty of Indian culture.

"Ambre de Delhi" would have been an evocative and appealing name for a perfume in 1921 for several reasons. Firstly, the use of "ambre" (amber) in the name would immediately suggest warmth, richness, and sensuality, key attributes that were highly desirable in perfumes of the era. Secondly, the reference to Delhi would invoke visions of an exotic and luxurious destination, rich in history and culture. This would have been particularly appealing to a Western audience eager to escape the realities of their own lives through the sensory experience of fragrance.

The audience for "Ambre de Delhi" would likely have been affluent women and men who were drawn to the sophisticated and exotic. These individuals, often part of the higher echelons of society, would have responded to this perfume with a sense of adventure and curiosity, appreciating its connection to a world far removed from their own. The name alone would conjure images of vibrant marketplaces, lush palaces, and the intoxicating scents of spices and flowers wafting through the air.

The term "Ambre de Delhi" evokes a plethora of images and emotions. It brings to mind the golden hues of amber stones, the rich and opulent interiors of Indian palaces, and the warmth of a sunset over the bustling streets of Delhi. Emotionally, it speaks to a yearning for exploration, a desire for luxury, and an appreciation for the deep, sensual fragrances that have long been associated with the East. Subtitled "the Breath of Love" and "Parfum de Hindou," the perfume not only promised an exotic olfactory journey but also suggested an intimate, almost spiritual connection to the essence of Indian culture and romance. The evocative name and its subtitles painted a picture of a world where love and luxury intertwined in the most exotic of settings, making "Ambre de Delhi" a captivating and desirable fragrance for its time.

Personal Perfume:

Launched in 1921, Ambre de Delhi by Babani was a fragrance designed to cater to a new level of sophistication and modernity that characterized the early 20th century. The perfume was uniquely formulated for multiple uses, extending beyond the traditional application of fragrance on the body. One of its most distinctive features was its use as a scent for furs—a luxurious addition to the indulgent wardrobe of the time. Women of the era, often draped in sumptuous furs, sought ways to enhance the natural scent of these pelts, which could sometimes be less than appealing. Perfuming furs became a popular practice, as it not only masked the sometimes musky, earthy odors of the pelts, but also added an extra layer of opulence and allure to a woman's appearance. Ambre de Delhi, with its warm, spicy, and exotic notes, provided an ideal aromatic cloak for these expensive garments, contributing to the wearer’s overall elegance.

In addition to its use on furs, Ambre de Delhi was also marketed as a fragrance to perfume cigarettes, in line with a broader trend of women smoking in public spaces during the early 20th century. Smoking had become an increasingly fashionable activity for women in this era, and fragrances like Ambre de Delhi were designed to complement this new social habit. Much like how Molinard's contemporary Habanita was used to perfume cigarettes, Ambre de Delhi allowed women to imbue their cigarette smoke with a distinctive, refined scent. This was part of a larger cultural shift where scent became a personal statement, influencing both the body and the surrounding environment.

Furthermore, Ambre de Delhi was available in a face powder, expanding its influence into the realm of personal grooming and beauty products. This was in keeping with the era's growing fascination with all things luxurious and elaborate, where a woman’s perfume could be complemented by her choice of scented cosmetics. The availability of a face powder infused with the same signature scent as the perfume allowed for a seamless, multi-sensory experience, ensuring that the fragrance lingered not only on the skin but also in the air around her. In this way, Ambre de Delhi was more than just a perfume; it was a part of an overall lifestyle of refinement, making its mark on various aspects of daily life.

Ambre de Delhi, Parfum Hindou, captures the essence of India, enchanted and unguessable, deepening the mystery and allure of anyone who wears it. It is an exquisite perfume with a characteristic indescribable charm, evocative of the enchanted atmosphere of the Arabian Nights and the scents of the flowers of Araby. This fragrance signifies the beauty of stiff brocades and queenly dignified things, designed for occasions of magnificence and formality, complementing gowns of velvet or statuesque brocade.

The name "Ambre de Delhi" immediately conjures images of opulence and grandeur, fitting perfectly with the formality of brocade gowns, superb furs, and priceless jewels. Its aroma increases the magnificence of your costume, adding a layer of elegance that is supremely sophisticated. In the crush outside the theatre, the fragrance of Babani's Ambre de Delhi becomes quite noticeable, as women nestle into their sumptuous wraps. The perfume is particularly successful on fur, enhancing its luxurious texture and warmth.

Ambre de Delhi recalls the richness of the Indian subcontinent, where the perfume's notes weave a spell as potent as India's own enchantment. It captures the essence of formal events, where the refined and the exquisite come together in a display of unparalleled elegance. The scent enhances the magnificence of gowns and jewels, creating an aura of sophistication that is hard to match. The wearer of Ambre de Delhi is enveloped in an air of mystique, their presence amplified by the fragrance's depth and charm.

This perfume evokes images of regal settings, where the elegance of brocades and the splendor of furs are complemented by the rich, warm scent of amber. It brings to mind the luxury of India's historical courts, where magnificence and formality were the order of the day. The scent is a reminder of the beauty and elegance that can be achieved when the right elements come together, creating a sensory experience that is both enchanting and unforgettable. Ambre de Delhi is not just a fragrance; it is an embodiment of elegance, mystery, and the timeless charm of India.

Ambre de Delhi is an ideal choice. Its rich and sophisticated scent complements a refined lifestyle, resonating with the elegance and grace of its wearer. Ambre de Delhi is versatile and can be creatively blended with other fragrances to create unique combinations. For instance, when mixed with Ligeia in a proportion of 1 to 3, it forms another lovely fragrance, adding a new dimension to its charm.

For brunettes, a blend of Ambre de Delhi with Chypre Egyptienne creates a distinctive and harmonious scent, perfectly suited to enhance their natural allure. This combination adds depth and complexity, highlighting the sophisticated and mysterious qualities that both fragrances embody. The ability to mix Ambre de Delhi with other perfumes showcases its versatility and the artistry behind its creation.

If you are conventional, dignified, stately - fond of society and beauty - you will choose Babani's Ambre de Delhi and Ligeia.. In the proportion of 1 to 3, these perfumes blend to make another lovely fragrance. For brunettes, mix Ambre de Delhi with Chypre Egyptienne.

It was suggested that you blend Ambre de Delhi with other Babani perfumes such as Ligeia. As well as another formula of Saigon, Ambre and Afghani.

 

 

Pale moon that sends a silver shaft of light 

Into the scented dusk where lovers meet 

Into the garden where 

A thousand sleeping flowers 

Sigh in sweet sympathy 

And send up their fragrance 

To feed love's flame yet higher 

So much it seems the breath of love itself 

Precious as lovers half told dreams 

Such is 

AMBRE DE DELHI 

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ambre de Delhi by Babani is classified as an oriental fragrance for women with a very dominant ambergris note. It was described as "a true Oriental odeur, a spicy fragrance with the hint of something smoky and mysterious."

• Top notes: Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot, Jamaican nutmeg, Zanzibar clove, Tunisian orange blossom, resedageraniol, benzyl acetate, Hungarian clary sage oil
• Middle notes: French carnation, Peruvian heliotrope, Bulgarian rose otto, orris, Grasse jasmine  absolute, piperonal, amyl benzoate, Saigon cinnamon, Ceylon cardamom, Malabar pepper
• Base notes: Mexican vanilla, Java vetiver, Sudanese myrrh, ambergris, Abyssinian civet, Tibetan musk, musk ketone, vanillin, coumarin, Siamese benzoin, Sumatran styrax, Singapore patchouli oil, Indian musk ambrette, Colombian tolu balsam, Ambreine, Maltese labdanum, balsam of Peru, Guatemalan storax, Siberian castoreum, Tyrolean oakmoss resin, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Ambre de Delhi by Babani is a deeply evocative fragrance that immerses the senses in a rich tapestry of spicy, smoky, and mysterious oriental notes, crowned by the unmistakable presence of ambergris. From the very first breath, the fragrance opens with an airy and uplifting burst of Italian neroli, its bright citrus blossom note weaving a delicate and fragrant veil around the senses. This neroli, known for its sweet, slightly bitter character, gives a refined, floral introduction to the scent, uniquely grown in the Mediterranean where the orange trees bask in the warm sun. Accompanying this is the Calabrian bergamot, a citrus with a more pronounced tartness and light floral undertone, distinct for its origins in the Calabrian region of southern Italy, known for producing some of the finest bergamot, which imparts an elegant zest.

The initial notes deepen into the spicy warmth of Jamaican nutmeg and Zanzibar clove, exotic spices that evoke the distant shores of the Indian Ocean. Nutmeg brings a cozy, peppery warmth, while clove contributes a hint of sweet woodiness, adding to the fragrance's mysterious aura. The Tunisian orange blossom, though delicate, comes through with its honeyed, almost narcotic scent, enhancing the floral layer, while the Hungarian clary sage oil introduces a subtle herbal dryness, grounding the composition with its slightly camphorous and aromatic qualities.

As the fragrance evolves into its heart, the scent takes on a more complex and captivating nature. The French carnation adds a spicy, peppery floral nuance that mingles beautifully with the Peruvian heliotrope, whose sweet almond-like note softens the intensity. Bulgarian rose otto brings depth and elegance, its rich, honeyed florality adding a sense of luxurious femininity to the blend. Orris, with its powdery, rooty scent, deepens the heart further, while the Grasse jasmine absolute lends its indolic, animalic richness that radiates sensuality. The added touch of piperonal, which imparts a sweet, violet-like scent, and amyl benzoate, which gives off a creamy, slightly fruity tone, enhances the floral depth and adds layers of intrigue.

At the heart, the scent takes an exotic turn with Saigon cinnamon, which injects a spicy, warm-sweet note, complemented by the sharp, peppery edge of Ceylon cardamom and the heat of Malabar pepper, all contributing to the fragrance's fiery, intense character.

In the base, the ambergris—the soul of the fragrance—comes to the fore, its marine, musky, and animalic depth creating an unforgettable impression. The Mexican vanilla wraps the fragrance in a creamy sweetness, while Java vetiver adds its woody, earthy backbone, grounding the composition. Sudanese myrrh, with its smoky, resinous sweetness, introduces a divine mysticism that blends harmoniously with the Abyssinian civet, adding a slightly animalic, musky sensuality. Tibetan musk and musk ketone further amplify this musky, deep base, giving the fragrance a long-lasting, smooth finish that envelops the wearer. The fragrance is further enriched by the balsamic sweetness of Siamese benzoin, Sumatran styrax, and Colombian tolu balsam, creating a comforting, resinous warmth that lingers.

Adding to the overall richness, the Singapore patchouli oil brings a smoky, earthy essence that anchors the fragrance, while Indian musk ambrette provides a powdery softness. Maltese labdanum and balsam of Peru lend a resiny, slightly leathery note, which adds complexity and depth. The touch of Guatemalan storax imparts a warm, balsamic sweetness, while the Siberian castoreum provides a leathery, almost animalic touch that heightens the fragrance's allure. The Tyrolean oakmoss resin and Mysore sandalwood contribute their earthy, woody tones, grounding the scent in a smooth, sensual finish, while the Venezuelan tonka bean adds a sweet, almost almond-like warmth.

Each note in Ambre de Delhi works in harmony to create a fragrance that is both deep and mysterious, with the ambergris as the star ingredient, adding a smoky, musky depth that gives the composition its signature oriental richness. The blend of spices, florals, and resins gives the fragrance a timeless, sensual character, appealing to the wearer who seeks a scent both sophisticated and seductive. The exotic origins of each ingredient—from the spices of Jamaica and Zanzibar to the floral essences of France and Bulgaria—imbue Ambre de Delhi with a global, rich tapestry that evokes the allure of the Orient, inviting the wearer into a world of luxury and mystique.

In 1922, Ambre de Delhi by Babani was heralded as one of the standout perfumes of the season, capturing the attention of some of the most prestigious fashion and lifestyle publications. Harper’s Bazaar called it "the smartest perfume of the season," noting that it was becoming increasingly popular, yet Babani offered a diverse array of fragrances for different occasions, such as the exotic Afghani, Ligeia, and Ming. The appeal of Ambre de Delhi lay in its unique blend of spicy oriental notes, which were described as particularly well-suited to formal occasions, as highlighted in the Arizona Republic's 1924 feature. The fragrance was deemed ideal for evening wear, with its luxurious scent becoming instantly recognizable among those draped in velvet or brocade gowns, especially when paired with sumptuous furs. Ambre de Delhi exuded an air of opulence and sophistication, which made it an essential accessory for grand social gatherings such as theater outings.

In Vogue's 1922 coverage, the fragrance was tied to a visual aesthetic, with the perfume presented in its distinct melon-shaped bottle and nestled within a gold moire box, reinforcing its exotic allure and refined design. Priced at $10, it stood out not only for its scent but also for its stylish packaging—reflecting the high standards of French design, which was echoed by The New Yorker's 1925 article. The allure of Ambre de Delhi was not limited to its exotic notes alone; it was also about crafting a personal experience, with Babani encouraging customers to blend Ambre de Delhi with other perfumes in the line—such as Ligeia—to create a bespoke, signature scent.

The perfume’s distinctiveness was often attributed to its evocative nature. Sketch magazine, in 1922, described it as having an "exquisite" and "indescribable charm," capable of conjuring the "enchanted atmosphere of the Arabian Nights." This poetic characterization helped solidify its identity as an otherworldly, mysterious fragrance that seemed to transport its wearer to far-flung, exotic lands. The Arts & Decoration journal in 1925 connected it to "petrified tears" of antiquity, likening it to the deep, timeless quality of amber itself, thus adding layers of myth and legend to its appeal. Its richness was emphasized across a variety of descriptions, from the "elegant and distinctive" packaging in Harper's Bazaar to the luxurious environment in which it was worn, as detailed in the Arizona Republic.

By the late 1920s and into the early 1930s, Ambre de Delhi had become synonymous with moments of grandeur and formality, with Home Journal and Advertising to Women highlighting its association with opulent social events like the opera. The fragrance's status as a marker of elegance and refinement was evident in its high price point, with bottles ranging from $5 to as much as $150 in some of the more exclusive ads. A 1930 reference from Harper's Magazine humorously captured the exclusivity of the perfume, illustrating how it had become a luxurious and somewhat coveted item, often associated with affluence and social sophistication.

In essence, Ambre de Delhi was more than just a perfume—it was an experience. Through its deep, exotic scent and its luxurious presentation, it encapsulated the lavish and refined tastes of the Roaring Twenties, positioning Babani's fragrance as an indispensable part of high society's allure and mystique.

Bottles:

Ambre de Delhi was presented in a variety of bottles.

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The de luxe crystal flacon, created by Depinoix was of a square shape, entirely covered with gold enamel and hand painted with a black design of a mythological creature. The reverse had a different motif in black enamel tracery. The flacon was fitted with a multifaceted crystal lapidary stopper, also entirely covered with gold enamel. There are four sizes of this bottle: 

• Petit Modele (Small) - 4.25" tall x 2" wide and 1.25" thick
• Moyen Modele (Medium) - 5.25" tall
• Grande Modele (Large) - 7.5" tall x 4" wide x 2" thick.

The other deluxe bottle was an oval shaped, flat bottle, also made of black crystal entirely covered with a gilded overlay and black enameled designs. This size was meant to carry in the handbag. It was presented in a gold paper covered box, lined with black satin satin. Bottle designed by Decor Auziès of Paris. Bottle measures 3"tall x 2.5" wide x 0.5" thick.

A rare deluxe bottle was the perfume atomizer for Ambre de Delhi, made up of  clear crystal, completely gilded and further enhanced with an enameled dragon in black, it has the Babani label on the bottom, and the metal fittings are marked "Vapo-Baby-Paris." The bottle stands 3" tall. c1920. 

 

 

Other bottles included the following:

• Serie 31 - the "Boule," a frosted glass ball or melon shaped flacon with frosted rose stopper.
• Serie 30 - the "Plat," a flat colorless glass flacon fitted with a flat, frosted glass stopper molded with flowers.
• Serie 42 - In this Far Eastern bottle, a choice of the following two perfumes: Ambre de Delhi and Saigon

The Boule & the Plat bottles were stock bottles used by Babani to contain their other perfumes.

A rare to find today, the "Boule" shaped bottle was made up of frosted glass and had a stylized frosted glass rose stopper enhanced with gold and black enamel. The bottle had a gilded foil label. This bottle was called the "boule" in the Babani catalog, and was also used for other perfumes by Babani: Ambre de Delhi, Afghani. Rose Gullistan, Saigon. The bottle stands 7.5cm tall. It was housed in a "Hindu" box, lined in silk, and covered with gold embroidery. This presentation originally retailed for 75 francs.

 

No. 1003. Our twelve extracts in an elegant gold box.

A less expensive bottle was used in the late 1920s and into the 1930s. It is clear crystal with fluted sides. It has a raised enamel silhouette of a teal colored elephant and gold enamel lettering. The bottle is fitted with a frosted glass stopper molded with Art Deco roses. A more luxurious version has gold enamel. The bottles measure 3" tall x 1.75" wide x 1" thick. They were used for other Babani perfumes including Gardenia. 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Ambre de Delhi by Babani, launched in 1921, quickly became one of the most celebrated fragrances of the early 1920s, captivating the senses of high society with its opulent and exotic scent. This perfume embodied the essence of the Roaring Twenties—a period defined by its luxurious excess and a fascination with the mysterious and the exotic. The fragrance was introduced at a time when society was embracing new forms of glamour and style, and it struck a chord with women who sought to express their sophistication through more unconventional, bold choices. Its oriental composition, dominated by the rich, enigmatic note of ambergris, marked it as a distinctive fragrance that stood apart from the florals and citrus-based perfumes that had predominated in earlier years.

Ambre de Delhi was celebrated for its evocative blend of spicy and smoky notes, which conjured up visions of the mystique of the East. It was often described as a perfume that created an aura of opulence and mystery, making it the perfect choice for formal, extravagant occasions such as opera outings or grand social gatherings. Its association with exoticism was reinforced by its luxurious packaging—often presented in elegant, gold-decorated bottles and housed in lavish boxes. This distinctive presentation contributed to the perception of Ambre de Delhi as a high-end, exclusive fragrance that catered to women of discerning tastes, positioning it as a symbol of wealth and refinement.

By 1939, Ambre de Delhi was still being sold, indicating its enduring popularity despite changing perfume trends. Its longevity in the market, even after nearly two decades, suggests that the fragrance had developed a loyal following among those who appreciated its unique blend of oriental richness and its association with high society. However, despite this continued presence, the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown. This is not unusual for perfumes from earlier eras, as many fragrances faded from the market without a clear record of their official end. Ambre de Delhi, though no longer in production, remains a beloved piece of perfume history, remembered for its exotic charm and its role in shaping the scent landscape of the early 20th century.