Monday, July 13, 2015

Coeur-Joie by Nina Ricci c1946

Coeur-Joie by Nina Ricci: launched in 1946. It was created by Germaine Cellier.

It was available in parfum, eau de cologne known as Eau de Coeur Joie and in eau de toilette concentrations.




Fragrance composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a lush, powdery floral aldehyde fragrance for women with a warm, woodsy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon balm, bergamot, neroli, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: gardenia, violet absolute, orange blossom, Oriental rose, jasmine absolute, Florentine iris
  • Base notes: orris butter, civet, precious woods


Woman's guide to Europe, 1954:
"Nina Ricci, 22 Rue des Capucines. "Coeur Joie"— deliciously citrous; "Fille d'Eve"— exciting. Both come in Lalique flacons. "Douce" and "l'Air du Temps" — fresh and youthful." .

Perfume and flavor materials of natural origin, 1960:
"Perfumers will no doubt recall a French perfume of the late 1930's, put out by Nina Ricci and named "Coeur-Joie", which means "heart's delight". This perfume certainly had a melissa-like, fresh topnote and lightness of floral fragrance."

Cosmopolitan, 1962:
"Exhilarating, exciting with all the blithe spirit of Nina Ricci's famous perfume, L'Air du Temps! 1001 sprays in classic fluted white column with golden band. Nina Ricci Fragrance Sprays are also available in Coeur-Joie, Fille D'Eve and Capricci."

Mademoiselle, 1981:
"Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps and Coeur Joie (still available in France) are the only perfume bottles to be made in the Lalique factory for Nina Ricci after WW2. (Lalique on the bottom of, say, a post ware Worth bottle simply means that the original design or mold was Lalique.) Which Riccis are best to collect? VP Marketing Director Freda Robinson points out that larger sizes have rarity going for them- the most extreme example being the 43-ounce bird flacon of L’Air du Temps Eau de Toilette at $1,350."

The bottles:

Deluxe Heart bottles:


These deluxe bottles held parfum and were manufactured by Lalique. There are four sizes of the frosted glass heart motif bottles, manufactured by Lalique. All should be marked with "Bottle made by Lalique, France" and the 3 largest bottles are also signed "Coeur Joie" and "Nina Ricci". The older bottles have heart shaped openings in all of the bottle sizes, the newer bottles have more circular openings in the smaller bottles.

Bottle sizes:

  • 6" tall
  • 4 3/4" tall
  • 4" tall
  • 3 1/2" tall


Heart motif purse bottles:

These frosted glass heart motif laydown bottles were also made by Lalique and held parfum. They have small screw caps on them and were housed in celluloid boxes.

Bottle sizes:
  • 4" long (four hearts)
  • 3 1/8" long (three hearts)
  • 2 1/4" long (two hearts)
  • 1 1/2" long (one heart)










Parfum Splash Bottles:


These crystal bottles were also designed and made Lalique (though some bottles not marked by Lalique and were marked with the Jacqueline Cochran name are made by Pochet et du Courval based on the original Lalique designs) and have a bulbous shape with a graceful tapered neck. They will be fitted with octagonal crystal stoppers and have gold serigraphy across their bellies with the name of the perfume.

The bottle sizes:
  • 4" tall (2 oz)
  • 3 1/2" tall (1 oz)
  • 2 1/2" tall (1/2 oz)
  • 2" tall (1/6 oz) (screwcap)



Eau de Coeur Joie Splash Bottles:


These eau de cologne (Eau de Coeur Joie) and eau de toilette Lalique bottles are nearly identical to the splash flacons pictured above, except for the fact that these are not fitted with crystal stoppers, but rather gilded screw caps. 

Bottle sizes:

  • 4" tall 






Disk Shaped Splash Bottles:

These are found in both parfum and eau de toilette concentration. The bottles were manufactured by Lalique, the circular body has a scalloped design around the edges and a spherical glass stopper with the initials NR raised on the neck. These bottles were fitted with round paper labels. The Eau de Coeur Joie bottles were fitted with a gilded screw cap.



Parfum Bottle sizes:
  • 8.75" tall
  • 5 1/8" tall  (6.8 oz), with screw cap
  • 5" tall (3.3 oz) 
  • 4 1/2" tall, parfum with oval shaped body, crystal stopper
  • 4 1/4" tall (1 3/4 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
  • 4" tall, parfum with crystal stopper
  • 3 3/4" tall
  • 3 1/4" tall (1 oz) parfum, with crystal stopper
  • 3" tall (1/4 oz) 
  • 2 5/8" tall (3/7 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
  • 2 3/4" tall 
Eau de Coeur Joie Bottle sizes:
  • 6 1/4" tall (6.8 oz), eau de toilette with crystal stopper
  • 4 3/4" tall, eau de toilette with screw cap
Bath Oil bottles:
  • 2 1/8" tall, bath oil with screw cap





Fate of the Fragrance:

Despite the high quality of the Nina Ricci perfumes, four fragrances were unsuccessful in the American market (Coeur Joie, Capricci, Farouche and Fleurs de Fleurs), yet, they are successful in Europe. Why? Because most American women prefer stronger fragrances rather than the light, flowery scents enjoyed by European women. Furthermore, European women believe femininity is enhanced by a perfume, and they place more importance on the decorative crystal bottles and packaging than American women do. “ The French image of perfume is very romantic, feminine and sophisticated,” says Lina Vitali, vice president of Parfums Nina Ricci, USA in 1989. “The American perfume’s image is more aggressive, sexual and overpowering.”

Though very hard to find, it is still being sold today. You can purchase the 15ml Lalique flacon of parfum at www.ninaricci.com








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