Silver Overlay & Deposit Perfumes & Scent Bottles

In this guide I will introduce you to the world of the silver overlay/deposit perfume bottles and the different types available.

Most people use the terms interchangeably,  The concept of overlaying a product with a cage work of silver was just starting to become popular in the late 1880s. The thick "silver overlay" we refer to today was generally called "silver deposit" during this period in old newspaper ads. This method of decoration was at first limited to cane and parasol handles. 

Oscar Pierre Erard of Birmingham, England developed an effective method of electroplating silver on glass and porcelain in 1889. Other manufacturers also overlaid ivory, tortoiseshell, horn and celluloid with the silver as well, so you may come across vanity accessories with this decoration. A few years later in 1893, John H. Scharling, an American patented an improved method. By 1895, Americans, the Czechs, Italians, French, English and Austrians were producing exciting glassware with sterling deposit and overlay.

Victorian Silver Overlay & Glass Bottles:

The first type I want to discuss is the late Victorian era bottles. These delicate perfume bottles with permanent solid sterling silver overlay in sinuous Art Nouveau or lacy roccoco designs on glass date from the late Victorian period about 1885, through the Edwardian period and into the 1920s. These bottles were crafted by using a pierced (cut out) cage work of solid sterling silver bands which was then carefully fitted by hand over the glass and fused into place. The silver is generally also fitted over the neck and mouth of the bottle. Today we classify the large examples as used for the eau de colognes or toilet waters, and their much smaller counterparts to the more precious parfum. In old advertisements, we see that a 3.5" tall bottle was for cologne. The most popular sizes were 2 oz, 4 oz and 6 oz.

Almost all are American in origin although a scarce few are English. The glass bottles mainly come in clear, but you can also find them in cobalt, cranberry/ruby or green glass. The colored bottles always command higher prices than the clear examples which are more plentiful. You may also find the silver overlay perfume atomizers as well, but these are scarce. Some bottles are entirely covered in the silver overlay, not a trace of the glass showing through.

The shapes were just as varied as the silver mountings that are bound upon them. You can find pear shapes, round, squat, long necked and tall, cylindrical, inkwell shaped, sloping shoulders, tapered bases, atomizers, and my favorite, the lobed melon shapes from Steuben.

Some interesting bottles were intended to be souvenirs for visitors to a landmark, exposition or city. One such bottle in the newspaper ad below mentions the silver deposit spells out the name of the city, in this case Kansas City.

Atomizers:

One particular type of interest is the atomizer. These gorgeous spray bottles could be had in a variety of shapes, sizes and designs. Some even have sterling silver atomizer hardware, look for markings. A collection of just the atomizers themselves would be quite impressive as they seem to be just a bit harder to find. 

Today, you will find that most of the rubber bulbs have been deteriorated or missing completely, this is due to the natural decomposition process of the rubber. First it gets hard, then starts to crack, then crumble and finally break off into bits. If the bulb is old and unsightly, I won't fault you for removing it. You may be able to find replacement bulbs online, but they may not always fit. Take a good look at your atomizer, see where the bulb would screw onto the hardware, it has a cup-like appearance, when your atomizer looks like this, you will only need the bulb and not a cord. Remember, the gooseneck part is where the perfume will spray from, you do not attach the bulb to this (I say this because I have actually seen people do this because they were confused and honestly had no idea and wondered why they couldn't get it to spray). 

Also, your atomizer won't spray if the siphon inside the bottle is missing. The thin siphon tube is usually made of metal, in some cases it may be glass, but on the American made pieces, it is usually metal. It is rather soft and can break off. It is attached to the atomizer head that screws into the collar on the bottle. It is fragile and I do not know of anyone who can replace this, so be careful when cleaning.

When I clean sterling silver hardware, I first stick a toothpick into the hole in the sprayer where the perfume comes out. This way, no polishing compound can get stuck inside and clog up the sprayer. If you attempt to clean the sterling silver hardware, be sure to get all of the polishing compound off. I sometimes use cotton swabs to clean intricate parts. You can also unscrew the bulb if your bottle has a newer one, so you don't get polishing cream on the bulb. If it is an old bulb, you may wish to leave it in place, just carefully polish around it. Don't force it off. You don't want to risk damaging it further.   

In the late 19th century photo below, you can see two silver overlay perfume bottles sitting atop the dressing table.

Two American companies, Gorham & Alvin, dominated the scene and created some of the most exquisite examples available using thick overlays of sterling silver. They both used glass blanks from the Steuben glassworks. Another honorable mention is the La Pierre company, I have seen some of their bottles, though not as highly detailed as Gorham or Alvin, but nonetheless, beautiful bottles. I own a lovely Bailey Banks & Biddle one that I purchased in Pennsylvania. Look closely for any tiny markings on the silver, usually you will find the hallmarks for the manufacturer and also the silver content, most likely .925, "Sterling Deposit", or .999 fine sterling. Stoppers and the base of the bottle should have hand inscribed numbers that match, this shows that the stopper and bottle were ground to fit each other perfectly at the factory.

Marks at a glance (do not confuse these with any monograms on the front of bottle):

• A = Alvin
• G = Gorham Manufacturing Co
• FLP = Frank La Pierre
• BBB = Bailey, Banks & Biddle

Some bottles were covered with the sterling silver overlay by the Eamco Company (Electrolytic Art Metal Company) of New Jersey . In business from 1905 to 1915. EAMCO, a specialized silver overlay firm, had been based in Trenton, NJ and according to public records, was reorganized in 1913 as a manufacturer of silver deposit ware. EAMCO was displayed on the list of high end silver decorators for American Belleek as well as French Limoges. The short list of qualified companies included Gorham Mfg.Co, RI; EAMCO (Electrolytic Art Metal Co), Trenton, NJ; and L.C. Tiffany. 

These higher end bottles usually have an area where a monogram could be engraved, often you will find bottles with owners name or initials in fancy flourishing script. Rather than have a jeweler remove the engravings, I opt to keep them intact as I find this adds a lot of charm to the antique bottles. The most expensive and much, much harder to find are the gorgeous iridescent art glass bottles by Loetz.

You may even come across these antique glass bottles that have their entire surface covered with a thick silver overlay. The gleaming silver is then engraved with sinewy decoration or stylized floral motifs. The matching stoppers are also completely encased in the silver and their engravings match the decor on the bottles. I have only seen a few examples of these bottles over the years and I consider them quite scarce. One thing to remember is that solid silver will be marked sterling or .999 Fine. Silver plated bottles are marked with "quadruple plate" or some other non-precious marking.

Some American perfume companies sold the perfume inside the silver overlay bottles, one such company was Tappan out of Corning, New York. The 1894 newspaper ad below mentions this:

I have seen countless bottles that have cracks in the glass, I suspect this is a common occurrence with bottles which have thicker overlay. In many cases the bottles will show some sort of cracking or damage to the glass. I would not use these today for containing perfume, but rather put them on display. Bottles may also have damage to the silver overlay, resulting in silver bands either lifted up, pulled away from the glass  or twisted at broken ends, some of these bands have been completely broken off. I am unaware if this was done via accident or by someone trying to remove the silver for its melt value. In any case, that is a terrible thing to do. 

 

Bottles with the thick sterling overlay can be safely polished. I recommend a silver polishing cream, do not attempt to use dip products such as Tarn-X, I find it is too harsh a treatment for the silver. Polish by hand or with a special buffing tool on the end of a Dremel or similar handheld machine. Inspect your silver beforehand to make sure there are no loose or pulled strands of silver, and be careful your polishing cloth does not snag the silver overlay. I just use a soft cotton cloth and the silver cream, in gentle polishing strokes at first and when I have found that there are no snagged areas, I can polish a bit harder without fear of damage. Bring your silver up to a soft gleam or a high shine, don't worry about getting into the tiny recessed areas to remove the remnants of black tarnish, I find it adds some dimension to the engraving which is quite pleasant.

Many bottles are found with a whitish residue inside, this is due to residue from silver polish getting inside the bottles when being cleaned and not being rinsed completely out. It can be hard to get inside the bottles to effectively clean it. I have had luck with cotton swabs with longer handles and very skinny bottle brushes.  

If your stopper is stuck or as we say, frozen in place, do not attempt to force it out, you may inadvertently snap it right off at the neck. I just leave mine as is and in place. I don't plan on using it as it was originally intended for perfume so I don't need to remove the stopper.

It is rare to find a bottle without any sort of damage and this should be reflected in the price. Carefully, paying close attention to the areas of glass in between the silver "bands." A bevy of these bottles covered in gleaming tracery displayed together makes for a luxurious addition to your perfume bottle collection. They also make superb gifts for the woman who has "everything" and appreciates fine antiques. In the period when they were manufactured, they were suggested to be given to brides, bridesmaids, bridge prizes, college graduate gifts, birthdays, anniversaries and hostess gifts.

Now we have learned about the more costly examples, we must now learn about the bottles on the lower end of the collecting spectrum. Lower priced examples are made by unknown manufacturers in order to compete with the higher end competitors. 

Rather than having thick solid sterling silver encircled around the bottle, these simply have a very thin sterling silver overlay. Most of the time, these do not have any engraving on the silver and look pretty plain. These bottles are known for having snags and pulled areas, broken or missing spots in the thin bands of silver. Its easy to get your polishing cloth snagged by one of the damages parts, so be careful you don't end up pulling the whole piece off the glass. 

Other bottles simply have the silver overlay literally painted on with a brush. These would be considered the cheapest out of the three types. Because this is a very thin layer, this type often has significant silver loss on the glass. These bottles were still being made into the 1930s-1950s period, these later examples usually in Italy or Bohemia (Czechoslovakia), in addition, you may find liquor decanters plentiful with this manner of decoration. Again, this silver decoration is very thin and tends to wear off with repeated washings so tread carefully when cleaning. I do not recommend polishing these too hard or too often or at all in examples in the worst condition.

French Mini Bottles:

The third type are the small vials from France. These little bottles are made up of black (amethyst) glass and almost always have a pattern of tiny diamond & daisy shapes made of silverplate covering the bottle. The base of the tiny bottle will be embossed "Made in France". The silverplated filigree screw cap usually has a long dauber and a semi precious stone such as turquoise or coral on the end of the cap. These stand about 1 1/4" tall and sometimes come with a small silver funnel.

Silver Overlay & Porcelain Bottles:

The fourth type of silver overlay perfume is the superb examples from Germany/Austria. These bottles were made of glazed porcelain that resembled glass and has silver crown shaped sprinkler tops. I have seen these in turquoise blue, royal blue, green, pink, yellow and a pale pink color. They generally stand approximately 2 1/4" tall. The porcelain was then covered with a thick overlay of 999/1000 or 1000/1000 fine silver, higher and purer than sterling, but also too soft to make into a solid object, therefore it is used as an overlay against a solid body only.  Both Hutschenreuther and the Rosenthal companies manufactured these bottles made up of bisque porcelain in the 1920s-1940s period. The most prolific of the silver overlay manufacturers was Friedrich Deusch/Friedrich William Spahr.  This company also provided the custom colored enamels and any hand painted elements you may see on these flacons. So in essence, Spahr/Deusch made the silver overlay, the engravings on the silver and did the decorative enameling. This type of customized work was very complex and therefore very expensive. Pieces were not mass-manufactured and were not readily affordable to the general public. They were custom produced in small batches and sold at high end jewelry stores.

You may also come across silver bases marked with "US Zone, Germany" with an "X" on side. This mark dates the scent bottle between 1945-1949.

All bottles will take a beautiful gleam when polished. I recommend Wrights Silver Cream and a soft cloth.

Miniature Mexican Silver Overlay Bottles:

Another type of silver overlay bottle is the miniature Mexican silver scent bottles. These small bottles have an almost abstract or floral overlay decorations over clear glass and date from the 1930s onward. They may have been souvenirs or made for the tourist trade. Look for markings for Mexican silversmiths and the fineness stamps.

Aftermarket Embellishments:

A very beautiful type of silver overlay concerns the recycling or upcycling as it is more commonly called these days, and commercial perfume bottles. The old perfume bottles, which would have been considered inexpensive, have now been turned into costly works of art by the addition of silver encasements or filigree "appliques." Some bottles I have found are Chanel, Bourjois, Guerlain, Coty, Lucien Lelong, Dana and others. The silver work is hand crafted by various artisans all over the world, mainly in Indochina and Mexico. These were once thought to be "limited editions" or special commemorative bottles, but this is not the case. These are most likely sold in jewelry stores, duty free and import shops.

One of the better known artists is Sammy Chiu of Hong Kong. SAMMY ARTS, was located at 9, Union House Arcade, Ground Floor, Union House, Chater Road, Hong Kong. The company were "Manufacturers , Exporters , Importers and Retailers of Jewellery , Diamonds , Handmade Sterling Silver and E. P. N. S. Wares, Ivory and Oriental Handicrafts." The proprietress of Mrs. Sammy Chiu Tse Kay. The company was in business at least from 1968 to 1980. I do not know if they are still in business. 

Many of the Art Nouveau designed sterling silver appliques were produced sometime in the mid 1980s and hail from the famed London antique and art dealer Hayman & Hayman. Georgina Hayman selects  antique and vintage bottles of well-known French perfume brands, and commissions expert silver artisans to embellish them with sterling silver overlays, "appliqués" of her designs!   

Info from their About Me section at their etsy shop. "Before setting up in Alfies Antiques in Marylebone, Georgina Hayman was an established antique dealer at Antiquarius in Chelsea for 30 years, having started with her mother Marie-Claude in the 1980s. She has a vast range of beautiful antique frames in a whole load of materials - silver, ormolu, wood inlay, mother-of-pearl and even gutta-percha - ranging from the days of old cabinet photographs in the 1850s through to the 1950s Georgina also stocks a lovely range of Limoges boxes and scent bottles including old Chanel, Guerlain and Lanvin bottles."

You can view some of their current items on etsy .

Monsieur Couturier by Jean Couturier c1975

"Monsieur Couturier" by Jean Couturier is a fragrance that bears a unique story of personal dedication and collaboration. Launched in 1975, this scent emerged as a testament to the love and creativity shared between Monsieur Jean Couturier and his wife, Mme. Jacqueline Couturier.

Crafted with meticulous attention and affection, Mme. Jacqueline Couturier embarked on the journey of creating this fragrance specifically for her husband. With the expertise and guidance of perfumer Raymond Chaillan, she brought Monsieur Couturier to life, infusing it with the essence of her husband's personality and style.

The fragrance made its debut in 1975, captivating audiences with its distinctive blend of notes and its deeply personal origin. Its release in the United States and Japan in 1976 marked the beginning of its international journey, enchanting perfume enthusiasts around the world with its elegance and sophistication.

Monsieur Couturier embodies not only the artistry of perfumery but also the intimate connection between loved ones and the power of scent to encapsulate emotions and memories. It stands as a timeless tribute to the enduring bond between Jean and Jacqueline Couturier, echoing their passion and devotion through the medium of fragrance.

Stephen Burrows by Max Factor c1975

Stevie B by Stephen Burrows Fragrances: launched in 1975 in association with Max Factor, a subsidiary of conglomerate Norton Simon, Inc. Named for designer Stephen Burrows.

Little Boy Lost

The image captures a scene from the 1953 film "Little Boy Lost," featuring renowned actors Bing Crosby and Claude Dauphin. In the backdrop, a marble table serves as a stage for an array of exquisite perfume atomizer flacons, each a testament to the elegance and refinement of the era.

As Bing Crosby and Claude Dauphin stand before this tableau, they exude an air of sophistication, befitting the glamorous setting. The perfume flacons, though non-commercial, are no less captivating, their delicate shapes and ornate designs hinting at the allure of luxury and beauty.

In the original black and white photograph, the timeless charm of the scene is preserved, allowing viewers to imagine the classic elegance of mid-20th century cinema. Meanwhile, the colorized version breathes new life into the image, infusing it with vibrant hues that evoke the glamour and vibrancy of the era.

Whether in black and white or color, the image serves as a captivating glimpse into a bygone era, where cinema and style intersected to create moments of timeless allure and sophistication.

Passion by Elizabeth Taylor c1986

In 1986, Elizabeth Taylor licensed her name to a perfume company, the Parfums International division of Chesebrough-Ponds.

Beware! Fake Lalique Signature on Perfume Bottles

Buyers Beware!! I found a vintage perfume bottle set with matching powder box, probably German or Czechoslovakian, post 1940s, with a faked acid mark for R. Lalique on base. It is entirely possible that the seller honestly has no idea that this signature has been faked on their items, but let this serve as a warning to those thinking about purchasing this as authentic R. Lalique.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/143514103482?hash=item216a1b6eba:g:i1kAAOSwaZdeLoAq

Seller's description taken right from listing:

"- all sales are final, no returns refunds or exchanges accepted -  please review condition report and view all photos prior to purchase - clear, sparkly, blue art glass from the art deco period featuring gold accenting, gold applied etched plates, and brass metal work.  this is a one of a kind perfume atomizer and must have been made for a special client as there are no others that i have seen, as you see many mass produced pieces on ebay, but never anything to unique and RARE.  it is very large and heavy, and is signed R Lalique France on the bottom of the bottle.   the bottle itself measures 4 1/2 inches across, 3 1/2 inches deep, and 6 inches to the top of the atomizer.   this listing is for the atomizer only but i also have other pieces from this set available for sale on ebay, check them out!  a similar set of only 2 pieces sold at auction in 2019 for $30,000!!! these sets are top of the food chain and were made for the rich and famous.  they are completely unique one of a kind and no two are alike.  to find 3 matching pieces is impossible!"

Seller also has a matching powder jar, also with faked R. Lalique signature on base:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133316933233?hash=item1f0a4ef671:g:QV4AAOSwYUpeLoxR

Also the other matching perfume bottle:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133316943852?hash=item1f0a4f1fec:g:rdkAAOSwb5ZeLo5K

Listen by Herb Alpert c1988

"Listen" is a fragrance by Herb Alpert, the renowned musician and bandleader. Launched in 1988, it marked Alpert's venture into the world of perfumery. The fragrance was a reflection of his artistic sensibilities and sought to capture the essence of his music in olfactory form.

"Listen" was crafted to evoke a sense of sophistication and allure, much like Alpert's smooth jazz compositions. The scent composition likely blended a variety of notes to create a harmonious and memorable fragrance experience. Given Alpert's knack for creating smooth melodies, one might imagine that "Listen" aimed for a similar smoothness and elegance in its scent profile.

Vivre by Molyneux c1931

"Vivre" by Molyneux, launched in 1931, was a fragrance that encapsulated the spirit of its time. Created by renowned French fashion designer Edward Molyneux, it sought to capture the essence of living life to its fullest, hence the name "Vivre," which means "to live" in French.

The fragrance was designed to evoke a sense of elegance, sophistication, and joie de vivre, reflecting the glamorous and vibrant atmosphere of the 1930s. Its composition likely included a blend of floral and citrus notes, with possibly hints of spice or woods to add depth and complexity.

As with many perfumes of its era, "Vivre" would have been packaged in an ornate bottle, reflecting the luxury and allure of the fragrance inside. It would have been marketed towards fashionable women who embraced the modernity and optimism of the interwar period.

While specific details about the scent's formulation and marketing campaigns from that time may be scarce, the legacy of "Vivre" likely lives on through vintage perfume collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate its historical significance and timeless appeal.

Dabrooks

Founded by Williams, Davis, Brooks, & Co in Detroit, Mich, a subdivision of the Michigan Drug Company.

Tempest by Lucien Lelong c1947

Launched in 1947, Tempest by Lucien Lelong is a notable fragrance that has left a lasting mark in the world of perfumery. Originally named 'Orage' for the French market, this fragrance was rebranded as 'Tempest' to appeal to the English-speaking audience.

Lucien Lelong, a prominent figure in the fashion and fragrance world, was known for his innovative approach and high standards. Tempest reflects this legacy, embodying the elegance and sophistication of the late 1940s. It remains a classic example of how a fragrance can encapsulate the spirit of an era while offering a timeless appeal.

Cleopatra's Boudoir stands with Ukraine.

Like much of the world, I am bearing witness to the violence and terror that the Russian government is inflicting upon a peaceful, sovereign European country. I stand in solidarity with Ukrainians, and with Russians who are equally appalled by the actions of their government in a senseless war that was not of their choosing.

The United States reaffirms its unwavering support for Ukraine's sovereignty and territorial integrity within its internationally recognized borders, extending to its territorial waters. The U.S.-Ukraine relationship serves as a cornerstone for security, democracy, and human rights in Ukraine and the broader region.

The CEO of Nestle, Mark Schneider says the company will not exit Russian markets or suspend business with the Putin regime. 

In support of Ukraine, I am NOT buying any new Maybelline, Ralph Lauren, Yves Saint Laurent, Kiehl's, Garnier, Giorgio Armani, Diesel, L'Oreal, and Stella McCartney fragrances and cosmetics until NESTLE pulls out of Russia.

Regarding my etsy shops, I have also suspended all business with Russian and Belarus.

I believe it is necessary to cut off resources that would in any way support Russian state institutions, its regime-controlled media, and its financial system. None of my actions are directed against the Russian people, many of whom oppose what is happening and are suffering its consequences. 

These are the companies and products produced under the Nestle umbrella:

Ways you can help Ukrainians: https://www.globalcitizen.org/en/content/ways-to-help-ukraine-conflict/

Ever After by Paquin c1941

In 1941, the world was amidst the turbulence of World War II, a period marked by uncertainty and longing for stability. Love and happiness during this time were often sought as escapes from the harsh realities of the war. The perfume "Ever After" by Paquin, launched in this challenging context, resonates deeply with the yearning for a sense of permanence and joy amidst the chaos. The name "Ever After" evokes a timeless narrative of romantic fulfillment and enduring happiness, capturing a moment when people clung to idealized visions of love and peace.

Films of the era often explored themes of romance and escape, providing solace and a fleeting respite from wartime anxieties. Classic films like "Rebecca" (1940) and "The Philadelphia Story" (1940) were popular, offering audiences a mix of romance and sophistication. These films, with their glamorous settings and idealized relationships, mirrored the desires that "Ever After" would represent—a dream of unchanging happiness and love that transcends the trials of the present.

The choice of the name "Ever After" is profound. It conjures images of fairy tales and storybook endings, promising a sense of completeness and everlasting contentment. The phrase "ever after" refers to the idea of a happily ever after, a conclusion to a story where the characters live in blissful contentment. For women of the time, the name would symbolize an aspirational escape to a world where personal and romantic dreams come true—a welcome distraction from the grim reality of wartime life.

Women responding to "Ever After" would likely be drawn to its promise of an idealized, uninterrupted happiness. The perfume's name would resonate as a symbol of hope and a reminder of the beauty and romance that could still be embraced despite the surrounding difficulties. The image evoked would be one of a serene, idyllic life—a perfect escape that contrasts sharply with the current reality.

Durer by Durer c1971

Dürer perfume by Dürer was a fragrance launched in 1971, representing a unique blend of elegance and innovation. Crafted by the renowned Roure perfumer Michael Hy, it bore the hallmark of sophistication and artistry. Drawing inspiration from the iconic German Renaissance painter Albrecht Dürer, this fragrance sought to encapsulate the essence of his creativity and mastery.

With meticulous attention to detail, Michael Hy curated a composition that evoked a sense of timeless beauty and refinement. The scent profile likely featured a harmonious interplay of floral, woody, and aromatic notes, carefully balanced to create a captivating olfactory experience.

Dürer perfume by Dürer emerged as a symbol of luxury and individuality, appealing to those who sought to adorn themselves with a scent that transcended trends and embraced enduring elegance. Its legacy endures as a testament to the artistry of perfumery and the enduring allure of a finely crafted fragrance.

Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta c1983

Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta, introduced in 1983 and licensed by Parfums Stern, is an olfactory masterpiece crafted by the skilled perfumers at Firmenich. This fragrance captures the essence of sophistication and elegance, reflecting the timeless allure synonymous with the Oscar de la Renta brand. With its intricate blend of notes, Ruffles embodies a harmonious symphony of scents, evoking a sense of luxury and refinement.

Les Parfums de Xydes

Xydes, a prestigious perfumery company, was founded by Pierre-Andre Pignel in Portugal. Renowned for its exquisite fragrances crafted with meticulous attention to detail, Xydes quickly garnered a loyal clientele. However, in a strategic move to expand its reach and immerse itself in the heart of the fragrance world, the company later relocated to 9 rue Gounod, Paris.

This relocation to one of the most iconic addresses in Paris not only symbolized a shift in geographic presence but also signaled Xydes' commitment to elevating its brand to international prominence. The move to such a renowned location provided the company with greater visibility and proximity to the epicenter of the perfume industry, enabling it to further refine its craft and engage with a discerning global audience.

It's interesting to note that the Greek word "xydes" (ξύδες) is the plural form of "xydi" (ξύδι), which means "vinegar." Therefore, "xydes" refers to "vinegars." This term is used in Greek to describe different types or varieties of vinegar.

Envie by Lubin c1946

Envie perfume by Lubin, launched in 1946, is a timeless olfactory creation that embodies the essence of desire and allure. The name "Envie," derived from French, translates to "want" or "desire," perfectly encapsulating the captivating essence of this fragrance.

Crafted by the esteemed French perfume house Lubin, Envie is a sophisticated blend of exquisite notes that evoke a sense of longing and passion. With its rich history dating back to the post-war era, Envie has stood the test of time, captivating generations with its alluring aroma.

This iconic fragrance opens with top notes that tantalize the senses, drawing you in with a burst of freshness and vitality. As the scent evolves, heart notes unfold, revealing a harmonious bouquet of floral and spicy accords that add depth and complexity. Finally, the base notes linger, leaving a lingering trail of warmth and sensuality.

Envie perfume by Lubin is more than just a fragrance; it's a journey of seduction and desire, enveloping the wearer in an aura of sophistication and allure. Whether worn during the day or for a special evening affair, Envie leaves an unforgettable impression, making it a timeless classic cherished by perfume connoisseurs worldwide.

Arlequinade by Rosine c1919

Arlequinade by Rosine is a timeless fragrance that first graced the olfactory landscape in 1919, marking its debut in the United States by the illustrious year of 1923. Crafted by the masterful hands of Henri Alméras, this scent embodies a symphony of nuanced notes that dance harmoniously on the skin.

Parfums de Naudet

In the 1970s and 1980s, Essential Products marketed perfumes under the name Parfums de Naudet, which made inexpensive versions of some of the world's most treasured perfumes. The company was located in the loft at 90 Water Street, in lower Manhattan, New York City.

The company Essential Products was in business since 1895 and manufactured flavoring extracts for soft drinks, alcoholic liquors, syrups, ice cream and candy.

US trademark information notes that Essential Products, Inc was granted a trademark for the name Naudet in 1969, and claimed use since 1935. I did find a newspaper ad for 1931 that advertised Naudet "floral" perfumes. All Naudet floral fragrances were produced in the 1930s. 

All Naudet designer imposter fragrances were produced after 1969.

Sung by Alfred Sung c1986

"Sung" by Alfred Sung, introduced in 1986 in collaboration with Riviera Concepts, is a classic fragrance renowned for its timeless elegance and sophisticated charm. This fragrance embodies a blend of floral, green, and woody notes, creating a harmonious and captivating scent that has stood the test of time. With its delicate yet assertive aroma, Sung perfume captures the essence of femininity and grace, making it a beloved choice for women who appreciate refined fragrances with enduring appeal.

Vacances by Jean Patou c1934

"Vacances" perfume by Jean Patou holds a significant place in the fragrance world, debuting in either 1934 or 1936, with the latter marking the trademarking of its name by Patou. The scent was crafted by Henri Almeras, a renowned perfumer of his time. "Vacances" translates to "vacations" in French, a fitting title for a fragrance that celebrates a pivotal moment in French history: the establishment of mandatory paid vacation. It symbolizes a luxurious getaway encapsulated in a bottle, evoking the essence of leisure and relaxation amidst the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Esme of Paris

Esme Davis Matz made significant contributions to the fragrance industry during the early 1940s. Her fragrance line, Esme of Paris, gained recognition in New York and beyond, adding a touch of Parisian elegance to the American market. Matz's entrepreneurial spirit and dedication to crafting unique scents left a lasting legacy in the world of perfumery.

Perfumes in Ancient Egypt

A few years ago, I was fortunate to own a remarkable boxed set titled The Fragrant Past: Perfumes of Cleopatra & Julius Caesar, a collection that captured the essence of ancient times through the recreation of seven historical fragrances. This set, created exclusively for an exhibition at the Emory University Museum of Art & Archaeology in 1989, brought the olfactory history of the ancient world to life. Each scent was a window into the past, allowing one to experience the aromas that might have once filled the air during the reigns of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar. The perfumes themselves were prepared by Professor Giuseppe Donato, a distinguished figure in the world of applied fragrance technologies. As Director Emeritus of the Institute of Applied Technologies at the National Research Council of Italy, Donato meticulously reconstructed these ancient formulas, blending his extensive knowledge of historical ingredients and ancient techniques.

These perfumes were non-alcoholic, oil-based compositions, designed to mimic the original formulations used in antiquity. The oil base gave them a rich, smooth texture that absorbed into the skin, transforming them into intimate "skin scents." Unlike modern perfumes with their expansive sillage, these ancient fragrances remained close to the body, evoking a sense of personal ritual and quiet luxury. The scents would whisper rather than shout, enveloping the wearer in a subtle aura rather than projecting outward.

The experience of wearing these perfumes was akin to stepping back in time, into the courts of Cleopatra or the streets of ancient Rome. The rich historical context, combined with the understated nature of these skin scents, made them a deeply personal and evocative journey. Each fragrance spoke of ancient rituals, sacred ceremonies, and the daily life of a long-gone era, preserving a sensory connection to the past.

Act IV by Faberge c1950

"Act IV" by Fabergé was a captivating fragrance introduced in 1950. It was renowned for its intricate blend of aromatic notes, creating an olfactory experience that captured the essence of elegance and sophistication. The perfume was meticulously crafted to evoke a sense of drama and allure, reminiscent of the enchanting world of theater.

Black Cashmere by Donna Karan c2002

Black Cashmere by Donna Karan: launched in 2002. Created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Donna chose the name because for her black cashmere is the ultimate fabric, it and best reflects her aesthetic.  She described it as "calming and protective." But something that could be worn day or night.

Revolution a Versailles by Jean Desprez c1989

Revolution a Versailles by Jean Desprez: launched in 1989.

Parfums de Coeur Designer Imposter Fragrances

Parfums de Coeur designer imposter fragrances:

From the magazine ad above: "A master perfumer has captured the essence of the world's great fragrances in a stunning collection of Body Sprays we call Designer Imposters. We're proud to introduce his latest Imposter, Primo!®  If you like Giorgio®, you'll love Primo!® All of these exquisite interpretations smell like your favorite expensive designer colognes. At only $3, go ahead and spray for yourself! These gentle deodorants give you a delicious all over body fragrance that lasts all day. Also watch for our men's sprays! If your man likes Aramis®, Polo®, or Musk, he'll love our Apollo®, Lancer® and Male Musk®."

Ciara by Revlon c1973

Ciara by Revlon: launched in 1973. (pronounced SEE-AHR'-AH). There was one year at Revlon when all the fragrances seemed to have something to do with the name Charles Revson. Ciara (a poetic arrangement of Mr. Revson's initials), then Cerissa (another play on the initials CR).