Thursday, December 31, 2015

Arpege by Lanvin c1927

Arpege by Lanvin: launched in 1927. Created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher. Named after the musical term ‘arpeggio’ in honour of Jeanne Lanvin’s only daughter Marie-Blanche, a talented pianist.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was created with over 60 natural ingredients and is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.
  • Top notes of aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, coriander, clove and peach
  • Heart notes of Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, camellia and lily of the valley
  • Base notes of ambergris, benzoin, musk, sandalwood and vetiver

Bottles:

Presented in a black Art Deco spherical flacon with gilded decoration (known as the Flacon Boule) designed by Armand-Albert Rateau and made by Verrières Brosse. A rare example is clear crystal with gilding. The earlier bottles have the gilded raspberry/pine cone shaped stopper, later examples have a gilded and ribbed spherical stopper.




A limited edition was created by Sevres in 1927. This rare Boule bottle model "blue ball" in blue enameled  Sevres porcelain, decorated in gold, accented with gold collar, with its gilded raspberry stopper. Monogrammed and dated November 1927. Stands: 9 cm tall. Photo by Drouot.

Other bottles are the square or rectangular clear glass bottles, known as the Flacon Carre, with the black glass, bakelite or black plastic stopper molded or cut intaglio with the Lanvin mother/daughter logo. These were created in 1932 and were still being sold in 1980.

In 1937, Lanvin face powder debuts.

In 1938, Eau de Lanvin and Eau de Cologne was launched in octagonal, ribbed crystal bottles.

In 1949, the Lanvinette, a gold tone purse flacon, designed by Cartier and holding 1/8 oz perfume was launched, it was often given as a gift with purchase.

Many people are not aware that the Eau de Lanvin is a toilet water/eau de toilette and that perfume is called an extrait.

In 1950, the Traveler flacon was launched, holding 1 1/3 ounces of precious "Arpege" in Eau de Lanvin, is a cylindrical gold metal bottle, it is  the big sister to the Lanvinette flacon. (these were still being sold in 1976)

In 1953, the black and gold purse flacons were introduced.

Curiously in 1957, ---"Thought you would like to know that for the first time in automotive history the exciting and elegant Cadillac Brougham (which sells for $12,000) will come equipped with Lanvin's one ounce perfume in the atomizer bottle." This is fitted in the armrest of the car and is standard equipment - so here again is another first for Lanvin. Sincerely, Peter Fink.” The atomizer was especially designed by STEP for the House of Lanvin, it is only operational when inverted, is completely leak proof and spill proof. It will hold $25 worth of Arpege, and along with all of the other appurtenances will be standard, not optional  equipment.

In 1962, Arpege Perfume Mist (200 metered sprays, refillable) and the Arpege Spray Mist (1000 metered sprays, refillable), were introduced.

In 1963, the Arpege Natural Spray was introduced, in parfum and Eau de Lanvin. "It's all Arpege. No wonder Arpege Natural Spray lasts long after aerosol fragrances have been used up. No wonder Lanvin dares to bring it to you in a crystal clear flacon, so you can see exactly what you're paying for. Won't leak, won't spill — but it will refill."

In 1965, A Veil of Arpege, a fluffy lotion emollient, was launched. The boule bottle and square cut flacon were still being used. Still being sold in 1987.

In 1971, Eau Arpege/Eau de Arpege was launched this was sold until around 1989. A line of bath and after bath preparations were also launched during this year.

In 1977, Arpege Bath and Fragrance Oil was introduced, it was a metered aerosol spray of perfume, meant to be sprayed onto the body and not in the tub.

In 1982, the return of the black boule flacon was launched (though it was available before 1982, but in very limited numbers), since then, all of the Arpege fragrances can be found in this form, as an atomizer for the eau de toilette.

In 1987, Arpege Eau de Parfum (as L'Eau de Parfum Arpege) was released, presented in the black boule flacon. Lanvin wanted the new formulation to “make an art statement. Serge Mansau designed the vaporizer and he understood beautifully what we wanted. He looked back in Lanvin's tradition and re-interpreted the famous black ball bottle of Arpege in a modernized flacon.

In 1992, Relance d'Arpege was released, a reformulation of the original perfume.





Unknown limited edition, ARPEGE bottle limited to 1560 copies,  glass bottle entirely decorated with gold. H: 6.5 cm, dates to 1990s.


This was reformulated in 1993 by Hubert Fraysse.  Also in 1993, Eau Arpege was relaunched.

From 1998, Jardin D'Or (Golden Garden), designed by Pascal Mourgue, limited edition of just 1500 copies.

After 1998, more limited editions followed. The juice remains the same, only the bottle is different for all of these limited edition collector bottles.

In 1999, Arpege was sold in a limited edition "Grand Deluxe Edition" published in 499 copies, created and designed by Mansau: Presented in its modernist cardboard box wrapped in glossy black paper and yellow embossed siglé and titled, bottle sculpture colorless crystal solid rectangular cubic etched sandblasted on one side of the symbol of the house decor, gold banded collar, pearl gold lacquered cap, set in a frame of black plexiglass and brass. Stands 15.5 cm tall.

In 1999, Olivier Gagnère designed a limited edition parfum bottle for Arpege, called Arpege Intimite (Privacy), it was made up of blue and gold. It was a limited edition of just 2000 copies.


Also in 1999, Reflets D'Or (Golden Reflection), limited edition of just 3500 copies, designed by Van Lith, in clear glass covered in gilding.

Nuee d'Or (Golden Cloud), limited edition of only 2500 copies, black glass with powdery gilding, created by Van Lith.

From 2000, Reve Bleu (Blue Dream), a limited edition of just 700 copies,designed by Eric Halley, the bottle had blue feathers adorning the flacon.


Sortilege (Spell or Hex), created by Hervé van der Straeten, limited edition of just 2000 copies.

Limited edition eau de parfum, 50ml, age unknown.




In 2005, a version of the Arpege Extrait was released.

In 2006, a reformulation of the original 1927 fragrance was launched which resulted in a sweet floral fragrance, contains more than 60 rare and precious flowers. Presented in a 100 ml black 'Arpège' bottle.

In October 2009, to celebrate their 120th anniversary,  a limited edition of Arpège in 50 or 100 ml Eau de Parfum was released along with sketches by designer Alber Elbaz on the outer box.


In 2013, a minaudière celebrating the 85th anniversary of Arpège parfum was released. Made in Italy of resin molded in the shape of the Arpège bottle, with gold-tone hardware, chain handle and push-button closure.




1 comment:

  1. Hi. That was a really interesting article. I do love the early Arpege bottle design; so elegant.

    I have a Lanvinette bottle still in its case and box. Do you know if it is still being produced? The box is marked "No. 02.940" and "2008D". Does that indicate made in 2008?

    Thanks in advace.

    ReplyDelete

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