The Cheramy perfumery, was established by Raymond Couin at 19 rue Cambon, Paris in around 1921. The name Cheramy may be a play on words, deriving from Cher Ami ("dear friend" in French). April Showers was Cheramy's best selling fragrance.
Sunday, July 20, 2014
Japonsime Influence in Perfumery & Mentone Perfumes
While doing the research, I was pleasantly surprised to find that Mentone (French name Menton) was a major perfume center like Grasse. Menton is famous for its citrus fruits, flowers, olive oil and essential oil manufacturing. They even have a special Citrus festival each year and their Menton Lemon is ranked as one of the finest by chef's around the world.
From a 1919 book “Mentone France, A seaport town and health resort on the Mediterranean. There is considerable trade in fruit and in flowers and leaves used in the manufacture of perfumes and in olive oil. “
Mentone (Menton), like Grasse, was filled with perfume distilleries, if you visited one, you received a souvenir perfume. Menton, was described as a city of gardens.Menton, 8km (5 miles) east of Monaco, is more Italianate than French as it stands right at the border with Italy at the far eastern extremity of the Côte d'Azur. In 1889, it was stated that the French Riviera contained 70 perfume distilleries.
Perfumes are still alive and well in Menton, you can purchase perfumes directly from a website www.prestigedementon.com
The perfume bottle I date to around 1885-1890. The style of the label is very simple and would be considered Japonisme. The Japonisme style started in France around 1880, after some French naval flees visited Japan and brought back many Japanese treasures back home with them. Archaeologists and museums studied the artifacts and a lot of contemporary artwork was influenced by Japan.
Utilizing Japonsime was highly lucrative and Japanese motifs helped to sell a range of items from the luxurious to the mundane. The Japanese influence on perfumery is evident, with many perfume names and perfume labels being based on Japanese -sounding or looking characters and words or decoration.
From a 1919 book “Mentone France, A seaport town and health resort on the Mediterranean. There is considerable trade in fruit and in flowers and leaves used in the manufacture of perfumes and in olive oil. “
Mentone (Menton), like Grasse, was filled with perfume distilleries, if you visited one, you received a souvenir perfume. Menton, was described as a city of gardens.Menton, 8km (5 miles) east of Monaco, is more Italianate than French as it stands right at the border with Italy at the far eastern extremity of the Côte d'Azur. In 1889, it was stated that the French Riviera contained 70 perfume distilleries.
Perfumes are still alive and well in Menton, you can purchase perfumes directly from a website www.prestigedementon.com
The perfume bottle I date to around 1885-1890. The style of the label is very simple and would be considered Japonisme. The Japonisme style started in France around 1880, after some French naval flees visited Japan and brought back many Japanese treasures back home with them. Archaeologists and museums studied the artifacts and a lot of contemporary artwork was influenced by Japan.
Utilizing Japonsime was highly lucrative and Japanese motifs helped to sell a range of items from the luxurious to the mundane. The Japanese influence on perfumery is evident, with many perfume names and perfume labels being based on Japanese -sounding or looking characters and words or decoration.
Lucille Young Cosmetics
There was a very famous Lucille Young, she was a silent film star from Lyons, France. 1892-August 2, 1934. Whether this Lucille is the same as the one who created the cosmetics company or not, I have no idea.
All products found date circa 1900-1930s, products included: wrinkle treatment, skin cleanser, skin whitener, masque, wrinkle masque, hand beautiful treatment., wrinkle massage, bust massage, figure massage, tissue cream, mascara, nail enamel and possibly more.
From a 1920 Photoplay Magazine advertisement:
Below are two photos of Lucille Young (the actress, photos from Washington University)
All products found date circa 1900-1930s, products included: wrinkle treatment, skin cleanser, skin whitener, masque, wrinkle masque, hand beautiful treatment., wrinkle massage, bust massage, figure massage, tissue cream, mascara, nail enamel and possibly more.
From a 1920 Photoplay Magazine advertisement:
“Banish Coarse Pores! My methods have brought beauty to thousands. Let me rid you of coarse pores, wrinkles, blackheads, pimples, freckles and superfluous hair. This portrait is my proof of that my beauty methods accomplish. My heart goes out to every girl and woman who has an ambition to be admired. You owe it to yourself to be attractive, admired and courted and I am proud that it is my privilege to help you.
I want you to know the methods used by famous actresses, society leaders and movie stars, mail the coupon below. I will send you free, my new work ”Stepping Stones To Beauty”, containing full and complete information of my methods and how to use them, in the privacy of your own home, and with the same wonderful results of which thousands of others have had. This knowledge has cost me years of patient, faithful and scientific research. Send no money, write your name and address plainly and you will receive at once, complete information on the following beauty methods:
- To Banish/Refine Coarse Pores
- To Banish Wrinkles
- To Banish Blackheads, Pimples, Tan, Freckles and Oily Skin
- To Beautify the Figure, Hands and Arms.
- To Remove Superfluous Hair
- To Grow Beautiful Eyebrows and Eyelashes
- To Clear the Skin of Acne
- For Beautiful Hair
Lucille Young, Room 107-1010, Lucille Young Building, Chicago, Ill."
Below are two photos of Lucille Young (the actress, photos from Washington University)
Marcelle Perfumes & Cosmetics
Marcelle was a line from the CW Beggs & Sons Company from Illinois. The Marcelle line included perfumes, toiletries, hair products and cosmetics in the 1920s-1930s.
Some of the perfumes in the Marcelle line included:
There isn't much to be found on this company. I did happen to find a legal document with the following:
Some of the perfumes in the Marcelle line included:
- 1923 Lilac Vegetale Hair Lotion
- 1932 Rose
- 1932 Narcissus
- 1832 Oriental
- 1932 Lilac
- Damascus
There isn't much to be found on this company. I did happen to find a legal document with the following:
"C. W. Beggs Sons & Co., an Illinois corporation with place of business at Chicago, 111., also operated under the trade names Marcelle Cosmetics and Marcelle Hypo-Allergenic Cosmetics, engaged in the sale and distribution of a line of cosmetics under the trade or brand designation "Marcelle" in interstate commerce, in competition with corporations, firms, and individuals likewise engaged, entered into the following agreement to cease and desist from the alleged unfair methods of competition in commerce as set forth therein. C. W. Beggs Sons & Co., whether trading under its own name, as Marcelle Cosmetics, Marcelle Hypo-Allergenic Cosmetics, or by any other designation or style, in connection with the sale and distribution of its commodities in commerce as defined by the Federal Trade Com-mission Act, or the advertising thereof by the means or in the manner above set forth, agreed that it will forthwise cease and desist from representing : That thousands of doctors have prescribed Marcelle Hypo-Allergenic Cosmetics, or that any numbers in excess of the true total thereof have so approved or recommended the same. C. W. Beggs Sons & Co. also agreed that should it ever resume or indulge in any of the aforesaid methods, acts, or practices which It has herein agreed to discontinue, or in the event the Commission should issue its complaint and institute formal proceedings against the respondent as provided herein, this stipulation as to the facts and agreement to cease and desist, if relevant, may be received in such proceedings as evidence of the prior use by the respondent of the methods." .
Friday, July 18, 2014
Young-Quinlan Perfume
I had originally published this article in 2010 on my original Cleopatra's Boudoir website.
The Young-Quinlan Company was a department store built in 1926 in downtown Minneapolis. Like many department stores, Young-Quinlan had a beauty counter and sold high end perfumes and cosmetics, but some people may not realize that Young-Quinlan launched perfumes under their own name.
The Young-Quinlan Company was a department store built in 1926 in downtown Minneapolis. Like many department stores, Young-Quinlan had a beauty counter and sold high end perfumes and cosmetics, but some people may not realize that Young-Quinlan launched perfumes under their own name.
Hot Weather Colognes by Dorothy Gray
Dorothy Gray Hot Weather Cologne was launched in 1940 and over the years, came in several different scents:
The bottles came in a large 6 ½ oz size and in 8 oz sizes, enough to last you all summer long. They retailed at $2.00, and in later years they would go on sale for $1.00.
Some advertisements had the tagline “The sale you wait for each summer! Play it cool…splash on refreshing Hot Weather Cologne by Dorothy Gray.”
Another ad advised you where to apply the fragrance: “Keep cool and collected throughout hot, sticky weather, active sports, travel. Swish Dorothy Gray Hot Weather Cologne on temples, wrists, nape of neck, all over you after shower. Wonderfully refreshing! Makes a delightful light summer perfume, body rub.
Other products were introduced by 1953, Purse Stick Cologne Cooler and Jumbo Stick Cologne Cooler in 2 ¼ oz glass containers. I think these were solid perfume sticks or they were just liquid in small vials. Scents available: Night Drums, White Lilac, Golden Orchid, Summer Song, Summer Bouquet, Mimosa, Love Song, Nosegay & Sweet Spice. These retailed for $1.00, $1.25, and $1.50, prices determined by scents and sizes.
Also a Cool Touch Cologne Gel Fragrance Stick, which may have been styled after the Cologne Coolers of earlier years, this time in a gel form. Other matching items were dusting powders, soaps, and a body moisturizer spray. This frosty spray was a delightful foam that cooled as it moisturized, leaving skin satin smooth, it was recommended as a refresher to be applied after a shower or bath.
Hot Weather Colognes were sold up until around 1966.
- Jasmine Bouquet
- Rose Geranium Bouquet
- Natural
- Sweet Spice
- June Bouquet
- White Lilac
- Summer Song
- Elations
- Floral Fantasy
The bottles came in a large 6 ½ oz size and in 8 oz sizes, enough to last you all summer long. They retailed at $2.00, and in later years they would go on sale for $1.00.
Some advertisements had the tagline “The sale you wait for each summer! Play it cool…splash on refreshing Hot Weather Cologne by Dorothy Gray.”
Another ad advised you where to apply the fragrance: “Keep cool and collected throughout hot, sticky weather, active sports, travel. Swish Dorothy Gray Hot Weather Cologne on temples, wrists, nape of neck, all over you after shower. Wonderfully refreshing! Makes a delightful light summer perfume, body rub.
Other products were introduced by 1953, Purse Stick Cologne Cooler and Jumbo Stick Cologne Cooler in 2 ¼ oz glass containers. I think these were solid perfume sticks or they were just liquid in small vials. Scents available: Night Drums, White Lilac, Golden Orchid, Summer Song, Summer Bouquet, Mimosa, Love Song, Nosegay & Sweet Spice. These retailed for $1.00, $1.25, and $1.50, prices determined by scents and sizes.
Also a Cool Touch Cologne Gel Fragrance Stick, which may have been styled after the Cologne Coolers of earlier years, this time in a gel form. Other matching items were dusting powders, soaps, and a body moisturizer spray. This frosty spray was a delightful foam that cooled as it moisturized, leaving skin satin smooth, it was recommended as a refresher to be applied after a shower or bath.
Hot Weather Colognes were sold up until around 1966.
Les Creations Guyla
Les Creations Guyla, established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Epinay-sur-Seine, they made exceptional rare presentations. Guyla's bottles were in the shape of champagne flutes, decorated with hand painted floral designs by Paul Poiret's company Atelier Martine. Guyla was a very short lived company and not much info is to be found on them.
Divin Narcisse was a floral fragrance with notes of camomile, myrtle, spices, ylang-ylang, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, amber and sandalwood.
Divin Narcisse, was presented in a very rare colorless glass vial shaped like a champagne glass, two very thin blown glass walls, the fragrance is contained between the two. Beautiful enameled decoration of colored flowers. Label on golden tassel. Gold embossed label under the base. It is possible to find these bottles with different hand painted enamel decoration as each one is one of a kind.
The perfumes of Guyla:
Divin Narcisse was a floral fragrance with notes of camomile, myrtle, spices, ylang-ylang, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, amber and sandalwood.
Divin Narcisse, was presented in a very rare colorless glass vial shaped like a champagne glass, two very thin blown glass walls, the fragrance is contained between the two. Beautiful enameled decoration of colored flowers. Label on golden tassel. Gold embossed label under the base. It is possible to find these bottles with different hand painted enamel decoration as each one is one of a kind.
The perfumes of Guyla:
- 1926 Caresse Parisienne
- 1926 Divin Narcisse
- 1926 Charmes de Toute Heure
- 1926 Embuscade du Coeur
Oviatt Perfumes
Oviatt, a department store in Los Angeles, California. The Oviatt Building was completed in 1927, and had Lalique glass panels.
Commissioned by Oviatt, Lalique created their bell shaped perfume bottle for Le Parfum des Anges. Bottle created for the opening of the Oviatt-Alexander Building in 1927. The design includes the seal of the City of Los Angeles. Lalique was apparently never paid for this commission.
Commissioned by Oviatt, Lalique created their bell shaped perfume bottle for Le Parfum des Anges. Bottle created for the opening of the Oviatt-Alexander Building in 1927. The design includes the seal of the City of Los Angeles. Lalique was apparently never paid for this commission.
Les Parfums de Nice-Flore
Nice-Flore, established in 1919 at 54 route du Var, Nice, France, by Union Francaise de Parfumerie et de Maroquinerie, they sold leather goods and perfume. They also traded under the name Nice-Flora.
Parfums Pierre Dune
Parfums Pierre Dune, established in October 1938 at 49 rue de Prony in Paris, emerged during a period of significant turbulence, marked by the looming threat of war and the socio-economic challenges of the time. Edmond Rosens, the visionary behind this venture, demonstrated remarkable courage in founding a new perfume house amidst such instability. The endeavor to create and launch Parfums Pierre Dune was not merely a business venture but a bold statement of resilience and optimism.
By January 1939, Parfums Pierre Dune introduced its first collection, a range of five floral fragrances known as the Flower Evocations. Each scent in this collection was crafted to capture the essence and beauty of a specific flower, aiming to evoke a sensory experience that would transport the wearer to a world of natural elegance and refinement. The five perfumes in this initial launch were Rose, Oeillet, Tubereuse, Violette, and Orchidee, each named after the flower it represented.
The Rose fragrance offered a classic and timeless aroma, embodying the romantic and rich scent of blooming roses. Oeillet, inspired by the spicy and vibrant carnation, provided a more daring and lively bouquet. Tubereuse brought forth the intoxicating and creamy notes of tuberose, a flower known for its powerful and heady scent. Violette, with its delicate and powdery aroma, aimed to capture the gentle and sweet essence of violet flowers. Finally, Orchidee delivered an exotic and mysterious fragrance, reflecting the unique and complex nature of orchids.
The launch of these perfumes marked an ambitious beginning for Parfums Pierre Dune, setting the foundation for the brand's future in the competitive world of luxury fragrances. Despite the challenges posed by the era, the introduction of the Flower Evocations collection showcased Edmond Rosens' dedication to the art of perfumery and his commitment to bringing beauty and sophistication to the world through his creations.
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