Parfumerie Rigaud

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes produced by Rigaud of Paris France & New York City.

Eve Reve by Rigaud c1957

Eve Reve by Rigaud: launched in 1957. Created by Mario Rigaud.

Eve Reve was lauded by French writer Louise de Vilmorin as “the Fragrance of Paradise”. It was named by Vilmorin because it is as female and as alluring as Eve.

Feerie by Rigaud c1937

Launched in 1937, Feerie by Rigaud emerged during a time of profound transition in both the world and the perfume industry. The late 1930s were marked by significant cultural shifts as societies grappled with the aftermath of the Great Depression and faced the impending threat of World War II. In the world of fashion and luxury, there was a growing desire for escapism and a return to glamour, reflecting an emerging trend of sophistication and a longing for beauty amid global uncertainties.

Feerie, the French word for "fairyland" or "enchantment," evokes a sense of magic and wonder. Choosing this name for a perfume was a strategic move by Rigaud to captivate the imagination of women seeking an escape from the harsh realities of the time. The term "Feerie" suggests a whimsical, dreamlike quality, perfectly suited to a fragrance designed to transport its wearer to a realm of elegance and allure.

The name "Feerie Moderne" underscores the perfume's modernity while retaining its enchanting essence. It was intended to appeal to women who were drawn to sophistication and fantasy, reflecting the glamorous side of life that was often portrayed in cinema and high fashion of the period. These women, likely socialites or those with a penchant for luxury, would have been attracted to Feerie for its ability to evoke a sense of magical transformation and sophisticated charm.

Mary Garden Perfumes & Toiletries

In this guide I have listed the various toiletries and perfumes bearing the brand name Mary Garden.

Un Air Embaume by Rigaud c1914

In 1914, Henri Rigaud became the sole proprietor of the French perfumery Veuve (widow) Rigaud, renaming the house simply “Rigaud.” To mark this pivotal moment, he launched the iconic fragrance “Un Air Embaumé” — a name that evokes a sense of poetic beauty and escapism.

The phrase “Un Air Embaumé” is French, pronounced roughly as "uhn air ahm-boh-MAY". Translated, it means “A Perfumed Breeze” or “A Scented Air.” The words stir imagery of a soft, fragrant wind carrying the delicate aromas of blooming flowers and sun-warmed earth — a gentle, enveloping sensation both comforting and alluring. The phrase conjures feelings of serenity and romance, as though one were transported to an idyllic garden, infused with the sweet, heady scent of blossoms on a warm, tranquil afternoon.

The year 1914 was a time of profound transition. Europe was on the cusp of World War I, and the era leading up to this moment was known as the Belle Époque — the “Beautiful Era.” This period, spanning from the 1870s to 1914, was characterized by a flourishing of the arts, culture, and luxury. Paris, the heart of fashion and perfumery, embodied a spirit of elegance, optimism, and indulgence. Women’s fashion embraced fluid, softer silhouettes inspired by Paul Poiret, freeing them from restrictive corsets. Delicate silks, oriental embroidery, and pastel palettes reigned, while elaborate hats and art nouveau jewelry completed the look. Society reveled in the romanticism of theater, opera, and café culture, all against the backdrop of Parisian grandeur.

Celebrity Fragrances

The usage of celebrities to endorse or create new popularity of a new perfume has been done since the 1800's. The names of well known personalities of the day helped sell perfumes and beauty products to those who wished to emulate the stars themselves.

Some perfumes were created for the celebrities to be sold under their own names, some were inspired by the person and some were only used to advertise the products.

Early celebrity perfumes included Eau de Cologne Napoleon, Jean Marais

La Rose Jacqueminot was launched by Coty to honour the French general Jacqueminot.

Rigaud launched a line of perfumes named for popular opera singers of the day, Mary Garden, Geraldine Farrar, Emma Trentini, and Carolina White. Mary Garden, had an entire line named after her consisting of perfume, facial powders, toilet water, lipstick, creams, and an assortment of other toiletries.. However, Rigaud may have introduced some Mary Garden products without her consent. As a result, Garden sued Rigaud in 1937, and won! Rigaud wasn't the only perfume company to use Mary's name, the McLean Perfume Co of Detroit launched Mary Garden perfume before 1904, a label around the neck of a bottle states that it won a Grand Prize at the Saint Louis Fair in 1904.

Other perfumes were named for Marthe Chenal.

Here is an ever growing list of celebrity named and celebrity endorsed perfumes:

Actors and Actresses:

• Antonio Banderas: Spirit, Mediterraneo, Diavolo Hypnotic, Diavolo Donna, Diavolo, Blue Seduction, Seduction in Black, The Secret, Her Secret
• Bruce Willis: Bruce Willis
• Catherine Deneuve: Catherine Deneuve, Chanel No 5
• Catherine Zeta-Jones: Elizabeth Arden Provocative Woman, Red Door Revealed
• Charlotte Gainsbourg: Balenciaga Paris
• Charlize Theron: Dior J'Adore
• Elizabeth Taylor: Passion, White Diamonds, Forever Elizabeth, Black Pearls, Diamonds and Emeralds, Diamonds and Rubies, Sapphires and Diamonds, Violet Eyes
• Hilary Duff: With Love...Hilary Duff, Wrapped With Love
• Jennifer Aniston: Lolavie
• Kate Winslet: Lancôme Trésor
• Uma Thurman: Lancôme Miracle, Ange et Démon Le Secret
• Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen: N.Y. Chic, L.A. Style; One, Two; Hamptons Style South Beach Chic
• Nicole Kidman: Chanel No. 5
• Keira Knightley: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle
• Marc Lavoine: Cerrutti 1881
• Mélanie Thierry: Krizia
• Sarah Jessica Parker: Lovely, Covet, The Lovely Collection: Dawn, Endless, Twilight, SJP NYC, Covet Pure Bloom
• James Franco: Gucci by Gucci pour Homme 
• Clive Owen: Lancôme Hypnôse
• Ewan McGregor: Davidoff Adventure
• Reese Witherspoon: In Bloom, U by Ungaro
• Scarlett Johansson: Calvin Klein Eternity Moment,Dolce and Gabbana The One, Dolce and Gabbana Rose The One
• Gwyneth Paltrow: Estée Lauder Pure White Linen Light Breeze, Estée Lauder Pleasures, Estée Lauder Pleasures Delights
• Liv Tyler: Givenchy Very Irrésistible
• Olivier Martinez: Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme
• Vincent Cassel: La Nuit de L'Homme
• Queen Latifah: Queen
• Halle Berry: Halle, Halle Pure Orchid, Halle Berry Exotic Jasmine, Closer
• Tilda Swinton: Like This, Tilda Swinton by Etat Libre d'Orange
• Tony Sirico: Tony Sirico Paolo per Uomo
• Zoe Saldana:  Eternal Magic by Avon
• Patrick Dempsey: Unscripted, Patrick Dempsey 2
• Salma Hayek: Today, Tomorrow, Always, In Bloom
• Eva Longoria: Eva
• Ewan McGregor: Davidoff Adventure, Davidoff Adventure Eau Fraiche
• Demi Moore: Helena Rubinstein Wanted
• Justin Timberlake: Play, Play Intense
• Audrey Tautou : Chanel No 5
• Alain Delon:  Dior Eau Sauvage
• Audrey Hepburn:  L'Interdit
• Mae West: Mae West Perfume
• Naomi Watts: Angel
• Sienna Miller: Hugo Boss Boss Orange
• Marlene Dietrich: Hommage à Marlene Dietrich, My Life, My Dream, My Passion
• Greta Garbo: Hommage à Greta Garbo, Mythos, Sphinx, Goddess
• Courteney Cox: Spotlight
• Monica Bellucci: Hypnotic Poison, Dolce & Gabbana Sicily
• Anne Hathaway: Magnifique
• Josh Harnett: Emporio Armani Diamonds pour Homme
• Niurka Marcos: Niurka Marcos con Feromonas 
• Matthew McConaughey: Dolce Gabbana The One Men
• Evangeline Lilly: Cool Water Woman
• Henry Cavill: Dunhill
• Katherine Heigl: My Voyage 
• Eva Green: Midnight Poison
• Zsa Zsa Gabor: Zig Zag
• Rachel Weisz: Burberry London for Women
• Ioan Gruffudd: Burberry London for Men
• Joan Crawford: Estée Lauder Youth Dew
• Isabella Rosselini: Daring, Isa Bella, Manifesto, Storia
• Gloria Swanson: Estée Lauder Youth Dew
• Kirsten Dunst/Marie Antoinette: Le Labo Tubéreuse 40
• Jennifer Aniston: Lolavie
• Sophia Loren: Sophia
• Chloe Sevigny: Chloe
• Jaclyn Smith: California
• Elvira: Evil
• Selena Gomez: Selena Gomez
• Jesse McCartney: Wanted By Jesse
• Elizabeth and James (Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen): Nirvana Black, Nirvana White
• George Takei: Eau Myyy....
• Demi Moore: More by Demi, Wanted

Musicians and Singers:

• 50 Cent: Power
• Avril Lavigne: Black Star, Forbidden Rose
• Beyoncé Knowles: True Star, True Star Gold, Emporio Armani Diamonds, Heat, Pulse, Rise, Heat The Mrs. Carter Show World Tour 
• Booba: Ünkut
• Britney Spears: Curious, Fantasy, Curious: In Control, Midnight Fantasy, Believe, Curious Heart, Hidden Fantasy, Circus Fantasy, Radiance, Cosmic Radiance, Fantasy Twist
• Celine Dion: Celine Dion, Notes, Belong, Always Belong, Memento, Enchanting, Spring in Paris, Paris Nights, Sensational, Sensational Moment, Spring in Provence, Chic, Pure Brilliance Simply Chic
• Cher: Uninhibited by Parfums Stern, Inc.
• Christina Aguilera: Christina Aguilera by Christina Aguilera, Inspire, Christina Aguilera: By Night, Xpose, Royal Desire
• Enrique Iglesias: True Star
• Fergie: Outspoken by Avon
• Gwen Stefani: L. A. M. B., L by Gwen Stefani, Harajuku Lovers
• Jennifer Lopez: JLo Glow, Still, Miami Glow, Love at First Glow, Live, Live Luxe, Glow After Dark, Deseo, Deseo Forever, Deseo For Men, Live Platinum, Sunkissed Glow, Blue Glow, My Glow, Love and Glamour, Love and Light, JLove, Forever Glowing
• Jessica Simpson: Fancy, Fancy Love
• Josephine Baker: Le Parfum Josephine Baker by Etat Libre d'Orange, Bal d'Afrique by Byredo, Sous Le Vent by Guerlain
• Kylie Minogue: Darling, Sweet Darling, Showtime, Sexy Darling, Couture, Inverse (Men)
• Mariah Carey: M by Mariah Carey, M by Mariah Carey Gold, Luscious Pink, Forever, Lollipop Bling (Ribbon, Mine Again, Honey)
• Mary J Blige: My Life
• Michael Jackson: Mystique de Michael Jackson, Legende de Michael Jackson, Magic Beat Unwind, Magic Beat Heartbeat, Magic Beat Wildfire, Michael Jackson Mystery
• Prince: Get Wild, 3121
• Sean John: Unforgivable, Unforgivable Woman, Multi-Platinum, I AM KING, Empress, Unforgivable Night for Men, I Am King of the Night for Men, Unforgivable Black, Unforgivable Black for Women, Unforgivable Multi-Platinum Edition
• Shania Twain: Shania by Stetson, Shania Starlight
• Tim McGraw: McGraw, Southern Blend, Soul2Soul, McGraw Silver
• Usher: Usher For Him, Usher For Her, VIP, She
• Victoria Beckham: Intimately Beckham for Her, Intimately Night for Her, Beckham Signature for Her
• The Sex Pistols: Le Parfum Sex Pistols by Etat Libre d'Orange
• Serge Gainsbourg: Serge Gainsbourg by Van Cleef and Arpels
• Madonna: Sensual, Musical, Truth or Dare, Truth or Dare Naked
• Jay Z: Rocawear
• Faith Hill: Faith Hill Perfume, Soul2Soul, True
• Tim McGraw: McGraw,  Southern Blend
• Nelly: Apple Bottoms
• Elissa: Elle d'Elissa, L'Eau d'Elissa
• Renee Fleming: La Voce 
• Erykah Badu: White Patchouli
• Marylin Manson: Smells Like Children
• Kerry Katona: Outrageous! by Kerry Katona
• Joaquín Cortés: Night Show
• Alejandro Sanz: Siete Alejandro Sanz Men, Siete Alejandro Sanz Women
• Kiss: Kiss Her, Kiss Him
• Leona Lewis: Leona Lewis, Leona Lewis Summer Edition
• Luciano Pavarotti: Luciano, Luciano Pavarotti
• Julio Iglesias: Only, Only Crazy
• Cliff Richard: Miss You Nights, Devil Woman
• Ashanti: Precious Jewel
• Paula Abdul: Sexy Thoughts
• Patti LaBelle: Patti LaBelle, Girlfriend, Signature
• Ludacris: Get Yours
• Ganna Walska: Let's Divorce
• Carlos Santana: Carlos Santana
• Debbie Gibson: Electric Youth
• Elvis Presley: Legend for Her, Elvis
• Paulina Rubio: Oro
• Herb Alpert: Listen
• Dionne Warwick: Dionne
• Billy Dee Williams: Undeniable
• Nicole "Snooki" Polizzi: Snooki
• Lady Gaga: Fame
• Peter Andre: Mysterious Girl
• Justin Beiber: Girlfriend, The Key, Someday
• Jennifer Aniston: Jennifer Aniston
• Hilary Duff: With Love...Hilary Duff
• Nicki Minaj: Pink Friday, Minajesty
• Katy Perry: Killer Queen, Meow, Purr
• Rihanna: Nude, Rebelle, Reb'l Fleur
• Shakira: S by Shakira, S by Shakira Aquamarine 
• Jordin Sparks: Because of You...
• Taylor Swift:  Wonderstruck, Wonderstruck Enchanted, Taylor
• Jay Z: Gold for Men
• Cher Lloyd: Pink Diamond
• Jon Bon Jovi: Unplugged for her, Unplugged for Him

Athletes:

• David Beckham: Instinct, Intimately Beckham for Him, Instinct Intense, Intimately Beckham Night for Him, Beckham Signature For Him, Instinct After Dark, Homme by David Beckham
• Derek Jeter: Driven, Driven Black
• Maria Sharapova: Maria Sharapova
• Michael Jordan: Michael Jordan, Jordan, 23
• Tom Brady: All American by Stetson
• Annika Sorenstam: Annika
• Gabriele Sabatini: Gabriela Sabatini, Magnetic
• Rafael Nadal: Lanvin L'Homme
• Carlos Moyà: Carlos Moyà
• Jeff Gordon: Halston Z-14
• Mikhail Baryshnikov: Misha, Mikhail Baryshnikov
• Chris Evert: Chris Evert
• Randy Moss: Grabman
• Muhammad Ali: Muhammad Ali
• Michael Jordan: Flight, Lady Flight
• Björn Borg: Heritage
• Randy Couture: Xtreme Couture

Models and Other Personalities:

• Cleopatra: Cleopatra by Tocca
• Kate Moss: Kate, Velvet Hour, Kate Summertime,Parisienne by YSL, Kate Moss, Wild Meadow, Vintage, YSL Parisienne
• Naomi Campbell: Naomi Campbell, Naomagic, Exult, Mystery, Sunset, Paradise Passion, Cat Deluxe, Cat Deluxe at Night, Seductive Elixir, Cat Deluxe with Kisses
• Paris Hilton: Paris Hilton, Just Me, Heiress/Heir, Can Can, Fairy Dust, Siren, Paris Hilton Passport
• Daphne Guinness: Daphne by CDG
• Stephen Jones: Stephen Jones by CDG
• Rossy de Palma: Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection by Etat Libre d'Orange
• Tom of Finland: Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange
• Kim Kardashian: Kim Kardashian, Voluptuous, Kim Kardashian Love, True Reflection, Glam, Gold, Pure Honey
• Napoleon: Eau de Cologne Napoleon, Napoleon by Les Etains du Prince
• Mally Roncall: Mally
• Carmen Electra: Carmen Electra
• Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi: Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi, Giove Nettuno Plutone
• Christian Audigier: Ed Hardy, Christian Audigier, Hearts and Daggers
• Ana Rosa Quintana: Ana Rosa by Estilo
• Barbara Orbison: Pretty Woman
• Josie Natori: Natori
• Svetlana Stalin: Svetlana's Breath
• Zoe Kravitz: Glam Princess
• Jade Goody: Shh.., Controversial
• Kat Von D : Saint, Sinner
• Agyness Deyn: Anna Sui Rock Me!
• Kimora Lee Simmons: Fabulosity, Baby Phat, Baby Phat Goddess, Baby Phat Golden Goddess, Dare Me
• Regine: Regine's Zoa Night Perfume
• Adriana Lima: Sexy Little Things Noir
• Miranda Kerr: Dream Angels Heavenly Bloom
• Amanda Lepore: Amanda 
• Barack Obama: POTUS 1600
• Dianne Brill: Dianne Brill
• Marisa Miller: Very Sexy Dare
• Andy Warhol: Union Square
• Marilyn Monroe: Marilyn Monroe, Marilyn by Andy Warhol
• Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti
• Chanelle Hayes: Mwah
• Pope Pius X: The Pope's Cologne
• Marguerite de Valois: La Reine Margot
• Alex Curran: Alex
• Kelly Brook: Kelly Brook
• Calum Best: Calum
• Danielle Steel: Danielle
• Katie Price: Stunning, Besotted
• Joan Rivers: Now and Forever
• Shilpa Shetty: S2 (pronounced S square) by Mark Earnshaw
• Coleen McLoughlin: Coleen X
• Queen Alexandra of Denmark: Coeur de Jeannette
• Marcus Schenkenberg: Marcus Schenkenberg 
• Jenna Jameson: Heartbreaker
• Daisy Fuentes : Dianoche Passion, Dianoche
• Donald Trump:
• Alan Cumming: Cumming
• Gloria Vanderbilt: Gloria Vanderbilt
• Lucretia Vanderbilt: Lucretia Vanderbilt, Golden Butterfly
• Priscilla Presley: Experiences, Indian Summer, Moments
• Johnny Carson: Here's Johnny
• Jeanne Cooper: Tatters!
• Neil Gaiman: Lemon-Scented Sticky Bat
• John Hodgman: Whale by John Hodgman
• Karen Mok: Karen Mok the Fragrance
• One Direction: Our Moment
• Tabe Slioor: Tabe
• Pope Francis: Francis
• Dita Von Teese: Erotique, Rouge, FleurTeese
• Maharadjah, Gaj Singh: Vaara
• Heidi Klum: Shine, Surprise, Shine Summer, Shine My Rose
• Oscar Wilde: Wilde by Jardins d'Ecrivains
• Twiggy: Twiggy
• Gulnora Karimova: Mystérieuse, Victorious

TV Shows and Movies:

• Desperate Housewives: Forbidden Fruit, Bree, Susan, Gabrielle and Lynette
• Sex and the City: Sex in the City Love, Kiss, Lust, Desire
• All My Children: Charm!
• Hollyoaks: Hollyoaks
• Beverly Hills 90210: 90210, California 90210
• Dynasty: Forever Krystal, Carrington
• Transformers: Optimus Prime, Bumblebee
• Hello Kitty: Peacock

Places:

• Caesars Palace: Caesar's Woman

Antique Perfumes with Egyptian Themes

As the 19th century gave way to the 20th, the craze for all things Egyptian, known as Egyptomania, reached new heights. Capitalizing on this fascination, perfume companies began to market their products with lavishly designed packaging that featured intricate ancient Egyptian themes. Perfume bottles were crafted to resemble artifacts such as scarabs, sphinxes, and pyramids, often adorned with hieroglyphics and vibrant colors reminiscent of the Nile's treasures.

Cosmetic lines embraced this trend with eyeshadows, lipsticks, and rouge presented in ornate containers inspired by the rich aesthetics of pharaonic tombs. Powder boxes, a staple on every vanity, were transformed into miniature works of art, mimicking the opulence of Cleopatra's era. These items were not just beauty products but also decorative pieces that allowed women to experience a slice of the exotic and mysterious world of ancient Egypt from the comfort of their own homes.

By incorporating these Egyptian-themed luxuries into their daily routines, women could evoke the grandeur and mystique of a distant, enigmatic civilization. It was a way to transcend the ordinary, bringing a sense of adventure and historical romance into the intimate setting of their boudoirs.

The Origin of the Floriental

The Floriental fragrance family traces its origins to François Coty’s groundbreaking perfume, L’Origan, launched in 1905. This fragrance established the signature accord that would define the category, blending warm oriental elements with floralcy. L’Origan’s structure laid the foundation for some of the most celebrated Florientals that followed, each evolving the theme while maintaining a recognizable olfactory DNA.

In 1912, Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue refined the Floriental concept with an emphasis on powdery sweetness. The fragrance combined spicy carnation and opulent orange blossom with an ambery, vanillic base, evoking a sense of nostalgic melancholy. The interplay of heliotropin and coumarin added depth, setting a precedent for future compositions.

Oscar de la Renta’s Oscar, introduced in 1977, revived the Floriental category with a more radiant floral bouquet. Rich with ylang-ylang and carnation, it was softened by orris and jasmine, while a deep resinous base of benzoin, sandalwood, and amber lent warmth and sophistication.

By 1982, Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt emerged as a softer, more powdery interpretation of the Floriental genre. It retained the key notes of carnation, orange blossom, and tuberose while incorporating a velvety orris presence, making it an elegant yet accessible choice.

A more dramatic expression came in 1985 with Dior’s Poison, which heightened the intensity of the Floriental structure. Though it notably omitted methyl ionone, it introduced a bold tuberose note alongside plum and myrrh, reinforcing its rich, opulent character. Poison's ambery, balsamic depth made it one of the most iconic fragrances of the 1980s.

Following this, Cacharel’s LouLou, launched in 1987, reinterpreted the Floriental with a velvety, powdery quality. Laden with heliotrope, ylang-ylang, and vanilla, it introduced a creamy, slightly gourmand facet that distinguished it from its predecessors. The presence of myrrh and incense further enriched its enigmatic allure.

By 1990, Christian Lacroix’s C’est La Vie represented a final, exuberant take on the classical Floriental structure. While maintaining the characteristic floral-spicy balance, it intensified the interplay of vanilla, tuberose, and benzoin, offering a rich and decadent fragrance experience.

Despite their individual nuances, all seven perfumes share a core olfactory framework. Their top notes provide an initial brightness, featuring bergamot, coriander, neroli, peach, and mandarin. The heart of each fragrance is a lush floral arrangement dominated by rose, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and tuberose, underscored by the spicy warmth of carnation and the resinous depth of myrrh. Finally, the base notes—including frankincense, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, cedar, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, and tonka bean—anchor the compositions with a sensual, lingering warmth.

Together, these fragrances form a lineage of Floriental masterpieces, evolving over nearly a century while preserving the distinctive harmony of flowers and spices over an ambery, vanillic base.  This comprehensive guide will describe the similarities and differences.

L'ORIGAN: 

Launched in 1905, L'Origan by Coty is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, spicy top, followed by a spicy floral heart, layered over a woody, powdery sweetened amber base. It was made up of 56 individual ingredients. Warm with a curious powdery note, violet, carnation and a hint of vanilla. 

L'Origan made use of the ambreine accord (by Samuelson), which is formed between bergamot, vanillin (or ethyl vanillin), coumarin and civet, with woody (vetiver, patchouli 4% and sandalwood) and rose notes (Calkin and Jellinek 1994). This was also used in the following oriental ambery fragrances: Shalimar by Guerlain, Must de Cartier and Obsession by Calvin Klein.

Other aromachemicals also play their parts in the construction of L'Origan: eugenol, methyl ionone, vetiveryl acetate, musk ketones, heliotropin, cinnamic alcohol and nitromusks. Iso-eugenol formate was used in conjunction with methylionones, 

In addition to the ambreine accord, L'Origan features six other specially compounded bases: Dianthine (Chuit Naef/Firmenich), Iralia (Firmenich), Coralys (Samuelson/Naef/Firmenich), Foin Rigaud (De Laire), Flonol (De Laire), and Bouvardia (Schimmel/de Laire). The original formula also included Chiris natural floral absolutes of precious tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom.

Dianthine lends a spicy, carnation bouquet, while Iralia forms sweet, floral woody notes on a methyl ionone base. The marriage of these two notes was also used successfully in another Coty perfume, L'Ambre Antique. The Foin Rigaud was a "new mown hay" synthetic, Flonol is an orange flower-neroli base, Eugenol intensifies the clove-like facet of carnation while Bouvardia provided a jasmine effect in the heart of the fragrance. Coralys helped to give the perfume it's powerful Oriental vibe.

• Top notes: French basil oil, anise, cascarilla oil, lemon, Portuguese sweet orange, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Italian neroli, Flonol, peach, Malabar pepper, sweet goldenrod oil, Russian coriander, mandarin orange, Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: Iralia, Zanzibar clove buds, eugenol, Grasse violet absolute, methyl ionone, orchid, Grasse orange blossom absolute, Grasse rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Spanish jasmine absolute, Bouvardia, Jamaican nutmeg, Ceylon cinnamon, cinnamic alcohol, French carnation, Florentine orris butter, Grasse heliotrope absolute, heliotropin, Dianthine
• Base notes: Bourbon vetiver oil, vetiveryl acetate, Maltese labdanum, Somali opoponax, Atlas cedar, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Abyssinian civet, Tibetan musk, musk ketones, Indian musk ambrette, nitromusks, Omani frankincense, Virginian cedar, Siamese benzoin, ambergris, Ambreine accord, Coralys, Foin Rigaud

Scent Profile:

L’Origan by Coty unfolds like an opulent tapestry, woven with the finest ingredients sourced from around the world. From the first breath, the fragrance bursts with an effervescent interplay of citrus and spice. The brightness of Portuguese sweet orange—distinguished by its sun-drenched sweetness and balanced acidity—melds with the sharp, zesty clarity of Calabrian bergamot, a variety prized for its refined, floral edge. Italian neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, lends a honeyed radiance, its delicate freshness providing contrast to the rich, spicy depth of Malabar pepper, whose bold, resinous warmth lingers with an almost narcotic intensity. 

A whisper of French basil oil adds a green, herbaceous brightness, while the unusual inclusion of cascarilla oil, distilled from the bark of a Caribbean shrub, imparts a dry, resinous warmth, subtly reminiscent of toasted wood. A floral sweetness emerges from the exotic Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, native to Madagascar, its creamy, narcotic aroma layered with facets of banana and spice. Underpinning these top notes is a sensual, powdery haze, the result of Flonol, a synthetic molecule used to enhance the floral heart with a soft, diffusive quality.

As the fragrance evolves, its floral core unfolds in a lavish, almost hypnotic bloom. Grasse violet absolute, with its green, dewy freshness, intertwines with the rich powderiness of methyl ionone, evoking the soft petals of Parma violets. French carnation bursts forth in fiery contrast, its clove-like spiciness heightened by Zanzibar clove buds and eugenol, the compound responsible for the flower’s characteristic warmth. 

The floral symphony deepens with Grasse rose absolute, a variety celebrated for its lush, honeyed depth, seamlessly blending with the opulent sensuality of Grasse jasmine absolute and the indolic richness of Spanish jasmine absolute, both harvested at dawn to capture their most intoxicating essence. Grasse orange blossom absolute, with its bittersweet, slightly waxy white floralcy, adds an ethereal glow, while the exotic, vanillic warmth of orchid lends an exotic, creamy nuance. 

A rare floral note, Bouvardia, infuses the composition with a green, almost tuberose-like lushness, complemented by the golden warmth of Jamaican nutmeg and the sweet-spiced allure of Ceylon cinnamon, their resinous richness deepened further by cinnamic alcohol. Anchoring this heart is Florentine orris butter, one of the most luxurious perfume ingredients, extracted from aged iris rhizomes to create a velvety, suede-like texture with an earthy, powdery coolness. The presence of Grasse heliotrope absolute and heliotropin introduces a delicate almond-like sweetness, softened by Dianthine, a component that enhances the spicy floral facets of carnation and clove.

The base is where L’Origan’s true magic resides, a velvety embrace of woods, resins, and animalic warmth. Mysore sandalwood, the rarest and most coveted variety, forms the foundation, its creamy, balsamic depth caressing the fragrance with an almost hypnotic sensuality. Atlas cedar, known for its dry, slightly smoky character, and the soft, pencil-shaving warmth of Virginian cedar, provide a grounding contrast. 

The sweetness of Mexican vanilla and synthetic vanillin creates a rich gourmand embrace, bolstered by the coumarin-like warmth of Venezuelan tonka bean. The inclusion of Bourbon vetiver oil, a variety grown in Réunion known for its deeply smoky, leathery facets, enhances the base’s complexity, blending with the earthy, slightly bitter edge of vetiveryl acetate. Resins such as Maltese labdanum, Somali opoponax, and Siamese benzoin contribute a honeyed, ambery richness, while the legendary Omani frankincense, revered for its balsamic purity, adds an element of mysticism.

The animalic whisper of L’Origan lingers in the form of rare and opulent musks. Abyssinian civet, known for its soft, warm leather-like sensuality, merges with the rich, sweet muskiness of Tibetan musk and the slightly fruity nuance of Indian musk ambrette, a botanical musk with a refined, powdery depth. Classic nitromusks, now a rarity in modern perfumery, weave a sensual, velvety backdrop. Ambergris, one of perfumery’s most prized natural fixatives, infuses the composition with a salty, oceanic warmth, further enriched by Ambreine accord, which amplifies the golden radiance of the resins. The fragrance settles into a final, delicate shimmer of Coralys and Foin Rigaud, both adding a hay-like, slightly tobacco-inflected warmth, leaving behind a scent that is at once powdery, spicy, floral, and deeply sensual.

L’Origan is a fragrance of contrasts—fresh yet warm, powdery yet rich, delicate yet bold. It is a masterpiece that revolutionized perfumery, its intricate composition setting the stage for the entire Floriental genre that followed. Each ingredient tells a story of its origin, its rarity, and its purpose, coming together in a scent that is both timeless and unforgettable.

L'HEURE BLEUE: L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain was introduced in 1912, it is a classic floral-oriental (spicy-amber) perfume for women.

• Top notes: spikenard, anise, orange, bergamot, lemon, neroli, tarragon, coriander, sage, thyme
• Middle notes: orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, heliotrope, jasmine, carnation, tuberose, violet, orris, ylang ylang, neroli, rose otto
• Base notes: myrrh, opoponax, ambergris, vanilla, tonka bean, iris, musk, sandalwood, St. John's wort, benzoin

Scent Profile:

L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain is an olfactory poem, a fragrance suspended between daylight and dusk, where the last golden rays fade into twilight’s melancholy embrace. It begins with an ethereal freshness, yet even from the first breath, there is a nostalgic depth foreshadowing its velvety heart. The citrusy brightness of Italian bergamot and Sicilian lemon shimmers on the skin, their effervescent sparkle softened by the luminous sweetness of neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees grown in the sun-drenched groves of Calabria. 

The slightly herbal, almost liquorice-like whisper of anise entwines with the earthy, camphoraceous glow of spikenard, a rare Himalayan root known for its shadowy, antique warmth. The inclusion of tarragon, with its green, anisic bite, and the crisp, slightly peppery edge of coriander, lend a delicate aromatic complexity. A trace of thyme and sage—both Mediterranean herbs prized for their resinous clarity—adds an almost mystical touch, grounding the opening in a sensation of dry, sun-warmed earth.

As the fragrance deepens, a lavish bouquet unfurls like a moonlit garden, each bloom swaying in the languid air of twilight. The golden, honeyed warmth of orange blossom radiates at its heart, its bittersweet richness seamlessly entwining with the luminous sensuality of Bulgarian rose, a variety famed for its deep, velvety facets and subtle fruitiness. Rose otto, distilled from the petals of Damask roses picked at dawn, lends an even richer, dewier dimension, its weightless transparency creating the illusion of petals freshly plucked. 

The narcotic embrace of tuberose, with its creamy, almost mentholated lushness, intertwines with the powdery elegance of orris, extracted from aged Florentine iris rhizomes, its cool suede-like texture adding a wistful, violet-tinged softness. Heliotrope, with its almond-vanilla facets, drapes the florals in a tender, almost confectionery-like haze, its sweetness counterbalanced by the fiery carnation spice of eugenol, which sharpens and refines the fragrance’s floral-spiced heart. The deep, sultry aroma of ylang-ylang, sourced from Madagascar, infuses the composition with its signature balance of fruity, banana-like richness and an almost leathery depth, echoing the golden hour before nightfall. Meanwhile, jasmine, its heady sensuality softened here to a mere whisper, lends a translucent glow to the floral mélange.

The base of L’Heure Bleue is where its true magic resides, an embrace of warmth, melancholy, and nostalgia that lingers like the last light on the horizon. The balsamic depth of myrrh and Somali opoponax saturates the scent with a dark, resinous glow, their honeyed, smoky undertones weaving seamlessly with the ambered sweetness of benzoin and the saline, almost animalic whisper of ambergris. 

The creamy smoothness of Indian sandalwood, with its warm, milky character, enhances the fragrance’s softness, while iris, now deeper and more velvety than in the heart, lingers with a faint, wistful powderiness. Madagascan vanilla, known for its lush, almost boozy depth, and the caramelized warmth of tonka bean, rich in coumarin, merge in an embrace that feels both gourmand and ethereal. Musk, soft yet tenacious, adds an intimate skin-like warmth, while the unusual presence of St. John’s Wort lends a dry, herbal touch that whispers of dried hay and sun-warmed fields at dusk.

L’Heure Bleue is a fragrance of quiet longing, evoking a time that is neither day nor night, where memories and dreams drift together in the cool evening air. It is the scent of a world hushed in twilight, of petals that have yet to close and stars waiting to appear. Melancholy yet luminous, rich yet weightless, it lingers on the skin like a sigh—a whisper of beauty caught between past and present.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA:

Oscar de la Renta by Oscar de la Renta was launched in 1977. Created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure. It is classified as a rich floral-oriental fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic floral top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery base.

• Top notes: cascarilla, aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, tangerine, Italian mandarin, orange blossom absolute, basil, coriander, orange leaves absolute, galbanum, peach, narcissus absolute, and gardenia
• Middle notes: orris, lily of the valley, honey, broom (genet), nutmeg, ylang-ylang, jasmine absolute, cabbage rose absolute, tuberose, rose de mai absolute, Bulgarian rose oil absolute, rosemary, cyclamen, lavender and orchid
• Base notes: clove buds,Venezuela tonka bean, cedar, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, Siam benzoin, castor, myrrh, Abyssinian opoponax, carnation, castoreum, patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, Java vetiver, Haitian vetiver, lavender and ambergris

Scent Profile:

Oscar de la Renta’s signature fragrance, launched in 1977, is a symphony of opulence, a grand floral-oriental that unfolds in waves of elegance and warmth. From the very first breath, the air is charged with the effervescence of aldehydes, their fizzy, champagne-like brilliance illuminating the composition like sunlight glinting on silk. This luminous opening is further enhanced by a medley of citrus, where the sparkling sweetness of Italian mandarin melds with the zesty vibrance of tangerine and the refined bitterness of Calabrian bergamot. 

The floral nectar of orange blossom absolute, distilled from the finest Tunisian groves, lends a honeyed, slightly green freshness, deepened by the citrusy floralcy of neroli. The unexpected inclusion of cascarilla, a rare aromatic bark with a dry, woody-spicy profile, whispers beneath the citrus, its sharpness softened by the verdant sharpness of galbanum and the earthy green crispness of orange leaves absolute. Coriander and basil, with their warm, spicy undertones, add a Mediterranean herbaceousness, their volatile oils mingling with the narcotic sweetness of peach, the creamy languor of gardenia, and the wild, narcotic intensity of narcissus absolute—a floral note that bridges green, animalic, and honeyed facets in a single breath.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart blooms into a tapestry of lush florals, each petal thick with dew and depth. The regal embrace of Bulgarian rose oil absolute, distilled from the famed Rosa Damascena of the Valley of Roses, offers a heady, velvety richness with an undercurrent of spice. This contrasts beautifully with the greener, more delicate sweetness of Rose de Mai absolute, a rarity harvested in Grasse during the fleeting month of May. Jasmine absolute, its carnal, sun-warmed sensuality, intertwines with the tropical, banana-tinged opulence of ylang-ylang, while the intoxicating allure of tuberose unfurls with waxy, creamy decadence. 

The golden warmth of honey, thick and dripping with its syrupy depth, coats the florals in a sweet, languid haze, harmonizing with the slightly almond-like, powdery elegance of orris root. Broom (genet), a lesser-seen floral note, imparts a slightly hay-like, almost leathery floral nuance, evoking sun-drenched fields at the peak of summer. A whisper of nutmeg flickers through the bouquet, its soft spice accentuating the deep floralcy, while unexpected notes of cyclamen and orchid lend a crisp, dewy counterbalance. Lavender, woven subtly into the composition, provides an herbal, aromatic lift—its crispness a contrast to the richness surrounding it.

As the fragrance lingers into its final act, the base unfolds with sensuous warmth, exuding a vintage grandeur rarely seen in modern perfumery. The dark, resinous embrace of Abyssinian opoponax and Somali myrrh lends a balsamic, smoky depth, their richness heightened by the golden warmth of Siam benzoin. The animalic growl of castoreum and castor, with their leathery, slightly smoky facets, evoke a bygone era of indulgence, while the earthiness of oakmoss and the dry, rooty intensity of Java and Haitian vetiver ground the fragrance with an enigmatic depth. 

Mysore sandalwood, revered for its creamy, milky smoothness, wraps the base in a velvet embrace, blending seamlessly with the spicy sweetness of clove buds and the caramelized warmth of Venezuelan tonka bean. A touch of patchouli, dark and damp, weaves through the composition, lending a mysterious, almost shadowy presence. Finally, the whisper of ambergris, that rare and elusive note, adds an oceanic smoothness, enhancing the depth of the musks—both natural and synthetic—that lend Oscar de la Renta its unforgettable trail.

This fragrance is a statement, a portrait of classic femininity woven with exoticism and timeless grace. It is the scent of silk evening gowns, candlelit salons, and a world where elegance lingers in the air long after the last note has faded.

VANDERBILT: 

Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt is a heady oriental floral blend of blooming flowers with touches of exotic fruits and spices. Sophia Grojsman created the perfume in 1982. Vanderbilt smells very much like L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain, C'est la Vie by Christian Lacroix and L'Origan by Coty. Though the Vanderbilt perfume was said to be directly inspired by Oscar de la Renta.

• Top notes: mandarin, coriander, basil, apricot, Californian lemon, aldehydes, bergamot, green notes, pineapple, orange blossom, lavender
• Middle notes: jonquil, mimosa absolute, honey, French marigold, pimento, jasmine, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, carnation, orris
• Base notes: amber, frankincense, tolu balsam, oakmoss, cinnamon, civet, musk, opoponax, vetiver, sandalwood and vanilla

Scent Profile:

Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt is a perfume steeped in elegance, a rich oriental floral that unfolds like a tapestry of warmth, spice, and powdery sweetness. Its opening is a shimmering veil of aldehydes, their effervescent brightness casting a soft, champagne-like glow over the composition. The citrus elements weave in with sparkling intensity—Californian lemon, crisp and tart, lends a zesty vibrance, while the golden sweetness of mandarin drapes the opening in a honeyed warmth. The addition of bergamot, with its slightly bitter yet floral facets, enhances the radiance, its refined citrus quality balancing the fragrance’s initial rush of freshness. 

Yet, Vanderbilt is never merely bright; an unexpected touch of green notes whispers beneath, a dewy, crushed-leaf sharpness that tempers the richness. The fruitiness of pineapple is more restrained than tropical, adding a mellow juiciness rather than a sugared candied feel, while apricot, soft and velvety, introduces a subtle, suede-like ripeness. The aromatic intrigue of coriander and basil, fresh yet slightly spicy, lingers just below the citrus, mingling with the sweet, slightly soapy floral glow of orange blossom and the herbal sharpness of lavender—a note that lends Vanderbilt its unexpectedly serene, almost meditative opening.

As the fragrance evolves, it blooms into a sumptuous floral heart, where petals unfurl like layers of a lavish silk gown. The golden sweetness of mimosa absolute, with its honeyed, powdery delicacy, is accentuated by the bright, sunlit tones of jonquil, a more radiant, green-tinged narcotic floral. French marigold, often overlooked in perfumery, introduces a slightly spicy, almost tangy depth, balancing the lush, creamy decadence of tuberose and the indolic sensuality of jasmine. 

Rose, both powdery and jammy, sits at the heart like a timeless beauty, kissed by the exotic opulence of ylang-ylang, whose banana-like sweetness and slightly smoky facets add a touch of tropical heat. The spicy warmth of carnation, its clove-like intensity, lends Vanderbilt an old-world sophistication, pairing beautifully with the earthy, violet-tinged elegance of orris, a note that reinforces the perfume’s powdery heart. A thread of honey glazes the florals, amplifying their nectarous richness, while pimento, with its fiery warmth, flickers through the bouquet, adding an unexpected contrast to the otherwise velvety smoothness.

The base of Vanderbilt is a masterful descent into warmth, depth, and an almost vintage sensuality. The golden glow of amber envelops the composition in a soft, resinous warmth, enriched by the sacred, smoky tendrils of frankincense. Tolu balsam, with its cinnamon-tinged, caramelized depth, melds seamlessly with the powdery sweetness of vanilla, creating a velvety, almost confectionary richness. Oakmoss, ever-present in classic perfumery, anchors the fragrance with its dark, earthy depth, its slightly damp, forest-like nuances balancing the otherwise warm and sweet elements. 

The bold sensuality of civet, with its unmistakable animalic presence, lends a whisper of old-school allure, its muskiness intertwined with the deeper, more velvety warmth of musk itself. Cinnamon, fiery yet sweet, curls through the composition, its spice complementing the lingering traces of pimento from the heart. Opoponax, a cousin of myrrh, adds a balsamic, slightly honeyed resinous glow, blending with the deep, grounding woods of vetiver and sandalwood—the latter lending its signature creamy, milky smoothness to the drydown.

Vanderbilt is a fragrance of contrasts—bright yet deep, powdery yet rich, sweet yet spicy. It is evocative of satin gloves, gilded mirrors, and the kind of old-world femininity that feels both effortless and commanding. It lingers on the skin like a whispered memory, warm and powdery, a scent both timeless and undeniably intimate.

POISON:

Poison by Christian Dior was launched in 1985. Created by Edouard Flechier of Roure Bertrand DuPont. Poison is classified as a soft oriental fragrance for women. It has a top note or Russian coriander, Malaysian pepper and Ceylonese cinnamon, fruity notes of wild berries and orange blossom, honey and amber notes of labdanum. 

In Poison, the following synthetic ingredients were used: aldehyde C18, gamma-decalactone, methyl salicylate, eugenol (carnation), damascenones alpha and beta (fruity-flowery and honey-like character), heliotropin (heliotrope), coumarin (tonka bean), and vanillin (vanilla), with great emphasis on methyl anthranilate (orange blossom and tuberose). 

• Top notes: aldehyde C18, gamma-decalactone, methyl salicylate, West Indian pimento, bay, Sicilian mandarin, Zanzibar clove, eugenol, plum, Calabrian bergamot, Malaysian pepper and Russian coriander
• Middle notes: heliotropin, alpha and beta, Ceylonese cinnamon, French carnation, wild berries, Tunisian orange blossom, methyl anthranilate, Provencal honey, lily of the valley, Grasse rose, French orris, myrrh, peach and Egyptian jasmine
• Base notes: tonka bean, coumarin, Abyssinian civet, ambergris, incense, Tibetan musk, benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, opoponax, Canadian castoreum, Atlas cedar, vanilla, vanillin, and Mysore sandalwood

Scent Profile:

Poison by Christian Dior is a fragrance of deep, hypnotic intensity, commanding attention with its rich, enigmatic character. The first breath is an intoxicating clash of dark fruit and spice, each note saturated with richness. Plum is the most striking—its syrupy, almost liqueur-like ripeness floods the senses, dripping with an almost inky sweetness. The citrusy brightness of Sicilian mandarin cuts through the darkness, its sun-warmed peel releasing an effervescent zest, while the delicate bitterness of Calabrian bergamot flickers at the edges, adding a refined crispness. 

A sharp bite of Malaysian pepper ignites the air, its fiery, almost metallic quality contrasting against the sultry fruit. Russian coriander, with its slightly nutty, herbal freshness, intertwines with the spiced woodiness of West Indian pimento and Zanzibar clove, which exude a smoldering warmth, reminiscent of a spice bazaar at dusk. Aldehyde C18, with its smooth, creamy facet reminiscent of coconut, mingles with the cool medicinal sharpness of methyl salicylate, giving the opening a peculiar contrast—like silk against steel.

As the scent deepens, its heart is a decadent swirl of florals and honeyed resins. The narcotic sweetness of Egyptian jasmine, drenched in sun, pulses with an almost waxy, white floral intensity, while the Grasse rose, deep and velvety, adds a crimson richness, its petals thick with a heady, vintage romance. The Tunisian orange blossom glows with a golden nectar-like quality, its sweetness intensified by Provencal honey, which drapes the florals in an opulent, syrupy warmth. Wild berries, still tart, break through the floral haze, their juiciness rippling beneath the surface. 

The powdery elegance of French orris, with its buttery, suede-like softness, lingers in the background, reinforcing the luxurious depth. A trail of Ceylonese cinnamon slithers through the bouquet, warm and almost smoky, its presence blending seamlessly with the clove, deepening the fragrance’s fiery, resinous intensity. French carnation, spiked with its peppery edge, adds a sharp floral crispness, preventing the composition from becoming overly sweet. Methyl anthranilate, known for its deep, fruity, slightly medicinal grape-like aroma, heightens the perfume’s sensual richness.

The base of Poison is where its power lingers, a fusion of animalic depth, balsamic warmth, and sweet woodiness. Abyssinian civet, with its raw, musky sensuality, curls into the air, blending with the slightly salty, marine richness of ambergris, giving the dry-down an almost primal allure. Tibetan musk hums beneath, dark and velvety, its presence enhancing the rich resins of myrrh and opoponax, which release a smoky, incense-like warmth. 

Labdanum, with its thick, leathery, amber-like glow, adds a molten, sunbaked richness, sinking into the slightly caramelized smoothness of benzoin. Canadian castoreum lends a faintly leathery, animalic undertone, reinforcing the perfume’s untamed depth. The woods—Atlas cedar and Mysore sandalwood—create a structured foundation, the cedar dry and slightly sharp, the sandalwood creamy and milky smooth, both melting into the final whisper of vanilla and tonka bean, whose velvety sweetness lingers on the skin long after the other notes have softened.

Poison is not merely a fragrance—it is a statement, unapologetically bold and deeply sensual. It does not invite; it enthralls. It lingers like a phantom, its dark fruit, searing spice, and enveloping warmth drawing the wearer into its addictive embrace.

LOULOU: 

LouLou was launched by Cacharel in 1987. It was created by perfumer Jean Guichard of Givaudan-Roure. It  is classified as a soft floral oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity green top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a sweet, powdery base. A soft oriental floral with musk and heliotrope at its heart, plus essences of tonka bean and vanilla, incense and sandalwood. The top note is composed of jasmine, orange blossom, cassia and ylang ylang.

• Top notes: orange, bergamot, violet, plum, mace, tagetes, anise, mimosa, cassia
• Middle notes: orange blossom, lily of the valley, jasmine, tuberose, lily, orris, ylang ylang, coriander, rose
• Base notes: heliotrope, benzoin, cedar, vetiver, tonka bean, incense, balsam, musk, vanilla, frankincense, sandalwood

Scent Profile:

LouLou by Cacharel is a fragrance of deep sensuality, its lush floral heart cloaked in mystery and warmth. The first breath is a bold contrast of light and shadow—a radiant burst of orange and bergamot, their golden brightness cutting through the air like liquid sunlight, kissed with a faint bitterness that lends sophistication. Plum, dark and velvety, adds a languid sweetness, its syrupy ripeness tempered by the cool, green violet leaf, which whispers of dewy petals and fresh-cut stems. 

A delicate thread of anise, tinged with a soft licorice-like spice, weaves into the opening, blending with the exotic warmth of mace, whose dry, peppery aroma tingles at the edges. The unusual presence of tagetes, or marigold, adds an unexpected twist—a slightly pungent, herbal sweetness, with hints of green apple and honeyed earth, grounding the ethereal florals in something richer. Mimosa, powdery and golden, hums in the background, its feathery softness already hinting at the fragrance’s coming warmth.

At its heart, LouLou is an opulent floral embrace, thick with sensuality. Tuberose, creamy and carnal, pulses at the core, its waxy petals exuding an almost narcotic depth. Jasmine, warm and luminous, enhances the heady richness, while the lush, solar brightness of ylang-ylang spills over the bouquet, its slightly banana-like creaminess softening the sharper white florals. Orange blossom glows like liquid gold, its honeyed sweetness warmed by the spice of coriander, which lends a faintly earthy, citrusy undertone. 

Lily of the valley, fresh and dewy, flickers in and out, a fleeting whisper of innocence amid the sultry intensity. Lily, deeper and more languid, adds a velvety, almost waxen texture, while orris root, with its soft, suede-like elegance, infuses the heart with a powdery refinement. Rose, deep and full-bodied, rounds out the floral composition, its classic richness tempered by the perfume’s underlying exoticism.

The base of LouLou is where its true magic lingers—a warm, musky cloud of sweet resins, woods, and vanilla-wrapped softness. Heliotrope, with its almond-like, marzipan sweetness, dominates the dry-down, a dreamy, powdery haze tinged with soft cherry and vanilla nuances. Benzoin, rich and slightly caramelized, melts into the smoky warmth of incense and frankincense, their resinous depth adding a sacred, almost mystical sensuality. The sweetness of tonka bean, with its soft hay-like, nutty warmth, blends seamlessly with the creamy, slightly spicy smoothness of sandalwood. Cedar, dry and slightly sharp, contrasts with the earthy, deep green tones of vetiver, while musk hums beneath it all, its velvety presence wrapping the scent in an intimate warmth.

LouLou is both luminous and shadowy, innocent and provocative, its florals rich and intoxicating, its base a whispered caress of sweet powder and smoldering warmth. It lingers like an unforgettable dream, its presence felt long after the scent has faded from the skin.

C'EST LA VIE:

C'est la Vie by Christian Lacroix was launched in 1990. It was created by Edouard Flechier. It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. In my opinion, C'est la Vie smells the most like L'Heure Bleue.

• Top notes: aldehydes, seringa, pineapple, cassia, raspberry, osmanthus, peach, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, carnation, tuberose, orris, sandalwood, orange blossom, rose, violet
• Base notes: ambergris, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean

Scent Profile:

C’est la Vie by Christian Lacroix is a fragrance of warmth and nostalgia, a heady blend of delicate florals, creamy woods, and golden spices. The first impression is bright and effervescent, shimmering with the sharp, aldehydic brilliance that lends a powdery, slightly metallic crispness to the air. The sweetness of pineapple follows—a lush, golden ripeness tinged with a faint acidity, like sun-warmed fruit at the peak of its juiciness. Raspberry, velvety and tart, adds a deep red vibrancy, its jammy richness softened by the honeyed apricot facets of osmanthus, a flower that carries the scent of ripe stone fruits. 

Peach enhances this luscious softness, its flesh delicate and slightly fuzzy, melting into the citrusy sparkle of bergamot, which adds a green brightness that cuts through the richness. A touch of cassia, with its warm, cinnamon-like spiciness, hints at the exotic sensuality to come. The inclusion of seringa, often called the wild jasmine, brings a creamy, slightly orange-blossom-like sweetness, its narcotic fullness already mingling with the florals waiting beneath the surface.

As the scent deepens, a luxurious bouquet unfolds. Jasmine, opulent and luminous, fills the air with its narcotic sensuality, heady yet fresh. Tuberose, creamy and extravagant, adds a waxy depth, its bold floralcy balancing the sharper sweetness of ylang-ylang, which hums with a tropical, almost custard-like richness. Carnation injects a spicy, clove-like heat, lending a vintage elegance to the heart, while the soft, suede-like texture of orris gives the florals a powdery sophistication. 

Orange blossom, honeyed and radiant, is a golden glow in the composition, enhancing the floral sweetness with its warm, slightly citrus-kissed perfume. Violet, tender and ethereal, drapes the bouquet in a cool, softly candied haze, its whisper of nostalgia reminiscent of delicate pastilles melting on the tongue. The interplay between these flowers is striking—some luminous, others creamy, some powdery, others fresh, blending in an intoxicating and luxurious swirl. The presence of sandalwood, nestled within the floral heart rather than the base, adds a soft, milky woodiness, smoothing the edges of the composition with its gentle warmth.

The dry-down is a rich and velvety caress, deep with resins and sensual woods. Ambergris, with its salty-skin warmth, gives the fragrance a radiant, almost glowing quality, melding seamlessly with the smoky sweetness of benzoin, which has a touch of vanilla and caramel in its golden depths. Vanilla itself is plush and creamy, dark and sweet, wrapping the florals in a balsamic embrace. 

Tonka bean, with its warm, almond-like richness, deepens this sweetness, carrying faint whispers of tobacco and sun-warmed hay. The earthy, camphoraceous darkness of patchouli lends a sensual contrast, its deep, woody facets grounding the fragrance, while cedar, dry and slightly sharp, brings a structured elegance. Musk, plush and slightly animalic, clings to the skin like the warmth of an embrace, ensuring the scent lingers long after the wearer has departed.

C’est la Vie is a fragrance of contrasts—airy aldehydes against syrupy fruits, tender florals against smoldering warmth, sweetness wrapped in spice. It speaks of elegance and nostalgia, of a time when perfumes were statements, their presence felt in the air like the memory of something precious and elusive.

Summary:

These seven fragrances—L’Origan, L’Heure Bleue, Oscar de la Renta, Vanderbilt, Poison, LouLou, and C’est la Vie—belong to the same family of opulent floral-orientals, yet each expresses this theme in a distinct way, shaped by its balance of spices, florals, fruits, and resins. Some feel ethereal and melancholic, others sensual and extravagant, and some refined and luminous, but all share an air of timeless romanticism and richness.

The most historic of these, L’Origan by Coty (1905) and L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain (1912), set the stage for the fragrances that followed. L’Origan, often called the first true floriental, is a powdery, spiced floral with creamy carnation and vanilla, softened by orange blossom and sandalwood. It carries a nostalgic, comforting sweetness, but also a certain wistfulness, like old lace tinged with the remnants of a once-bright perfume. L’Heure Bleue, however, takes a more melancholic, poetic approach, evoking the fading light of twilight. Its anise-tinged heliotrope, rich iris, and deep balsamic warmth give it a soft yet haunting presence, like the scent of flowers carried by a cool evening breeze. These two fragrances introduced the powdery, resinous warmth that would define the genre, inspiring later creations like C’est la Vie, Vanderbilt, and Oscar de la Renta.

Oscar de la Renta (1977) took this foundation and gave it a baroque, extravagant twist, embracing the opulence of white florals. Unlike L’Origan or L’Heure Bleue, which feel dreamy and nostalgic, Oscar is bold and radiant, a floral explosion of ylang-ylang, tuberose, and jasmine. It is grand, sophisticated, and statuesque, with a touch of spicy carnation and mossy warmth that anchor its lush florals. It stands apart by being bright and regal, less powdery than its predecessors, and more about pure floral grandeur.

Vanderbilt (1982) shares Oscar’s refined elegance but takes a softer, more luminous approach, weaving in honeyed mimosa, green notes, and aldehydes for a scent that feels powdery yet airy, shimmering like gold-flecked silk. It maintains the classic powdery floral-oriental structure, but with a gentler touch, making it feel cozy and intimate rather than dramatic. If Oscar is ornate jewelry and embroidered gowns, Vanderbilt is a delicate pearl necklace and soft, vintage lace.

Then comes Poison (1985), which takes the floriental genre to its most intoxicating extreme. Where L’Heure Bleue is melancholic, Oscar is grand, and Vanderbilt is softly refined, Poison is seductive, dark, and hypnotic. The spicy heat of Russian coriander, Malaysian pepper, and Ceylonese cinnamon makes its opening fiery and intoxicating, followed by thick wild berries and syrupy resins that cling to the skin like velvet in candlelight. It is the most dangerous and untamed of the group, where smoky myrrh, animalic musk, and balsams create a forbidden allure. Poison is not soft nostalgia or aristocratic elegance—it is an uncompromising statement, commanding attention with its intensity

LouLou (1987), though equally bold, feels otherworldly and dreamy rather than overtly provocative. Its velvety heliotrope, creamy tonka bean, and soft incense create a floating, powdery haze, where violets and ylang-ylang add a slightly surreal sweetness. Unlike the fiery opulence of Poison, LouLou has a softer, almost whimsical nature, like a cloud of blue silk floating through a dimly lit room. It shares Poison’s depth and richness, but where Poison is a femme fatale, LouLou is a mysterious beauty lost in a dreamscape.

Finally, C’est la Vie (1990) feels like the modern heiress of L’Heure Bleue and L’Origan, retaining their powdery warmth and balsamic sweetness but adding fruity brightness. The tart pineapple, cassia, and raspberry in the opening make it feel livelier and more playful, before settling into a soft floral heart of jasmine, heliotrope, and carnation. It is neither as grand as Oscar nor as innocent as Vanderbilt, but it carries the melancholic romance of L’Heure Bleue with a touch of contemporary charm. Its ambergris, benzoin, and vanilla give it an embracing warmth, making it feel like a softly powdered kiss left on a silk scarf.

The Differences and Similarities:

All seven fragrances belong to the same lineage of floral-orientals, where powder, spices, balsams, and rich florals create compositions that are warm, sensual, and timeless. However, their personalities differ vastly:

• L’Origan and L’Heure Bleue are the originators, steeped in nostalgia, with L’Origan being creamy and comforting, while L’Heure Bleue is melancholic and poetic.

• Oscar de la Renta and Vanderbilt refine this theme into elegance and classic femininity, with Oscar being boldly floral and aristocratic, while Vanderbilt is soft, luminous, and intimate.

• Poison and LouLou push the style into drama and sensuality, with Poison being fiery, carnal, and forbidden, while LouLou is powdery, surreal, and dreamlike.

• C’est la Vie ties them all together, capturing L’Heure Bleue’s wistfulness, L’Origan’s warmth, and Vanderbilt’s softness, yet modernizing them with a touch of fruity brightness.

Together, these fragrances represent the full spectrum of the floriental genre—from the elegant to the extravagant, the delicate to the dangerous, the nostalgic to the modern. Each one is a variation on the theme of floral warmth, powdery resins, and deep sensuality, yet they each tell a completely different story, depending on who wears them and how they unfold on the skin.

ON EBAY: Pres de Vous by Rigaud c1914 Perfume Bottle

ON EBAY THIS WEEK: Pres de Vous by Rigaud c1914 Perfume Bottle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221189682228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

The flacon is a clear crystal bottle with polychromatic and translucent enamel. Gorgeous Gothic Revival styled flacon. 

oroginal Pres de Vous advertisement c1914

Verrerie Lefebure et Cie

Verreries & Cristalleries Lefebure & Cie established in 1806, 5 rue Mazet, Paris, France. 

Exclusive suppliers to the Grandes Parfumeries de Paris for real crystal bottles with unalterable gold or silver metal cap.

Rich bottles for Luxury Perfumery.  The perfume bottles for Rosine were produced by Depinoix and Lefebure et Cie as well as Poiret's own companies Atelier Colin & Atelier Martine.

Rigaud used a Lefebure flacon for Un Air Embaumee. 

c1912

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Vintage Boudoirs of the Stars #1

I love pictures of old boudoirs, especially of those belonging to the stars, whether they were their personal sanctuaries of beauty or sets from a movie. The exquisite vanities filled with all sorts of perfume bottles and dresser accessories never fail to pique my interest.

Barbara Pepper (1915 - 1969) - Photo via Rantings of a Modern Day Glamour Girl. In this photo I can identify several perfume bottles of Guerlain's Vol de Nuit/Sous Le Vent, Chanel, Caron's Bellodgia, Caron's Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi, a Lalique perfume bottle, Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, Ciro's Reflexions, Infusion de Parfum by Ybry, Essence Rare by Houbigant, Patou's Joy, New Horizons by Ciro, Zibeline by Weil, as well as a few Czech bottles and unknown bottles. She is holding the largest size of the Ybry perfumes, which is for the Toilet Water.

Bebe Daniels (1901 - 1971) in "Maltese Falcon" - Photo via Atavism from Rad Nauseam. I can see some vintage atomizers here.

Bebe Daniels (1901 - 1971) - Photo via Things and Other Stuff. Looks like a large bottle of Rigaud's Un Air Embaumee.

Colleen Moore (1900 - 1988) - Photo via Starlet Showcase. Can't make out what most of the stuff is on her vanity, but I do see one Guerlain bottle and several French atomizers, possibly by Lalique.

Joan Crawford (1905 - 1977) - Photo by New Movie Magazine, Jan 1931 via Allure

Lotte Lorring (1893 - 1939) - Photo via Starlet Showcase

Marlene Dietrich (1901 - 1992), she has tons of bottles, everywhere! I see a Lucien Lelong bottle to the left.

Marion Shilling (1910 - 2004) - Photo via Starlet Showcase. Two gorgeous atomizers, probably from Volupte or DeVilbiss and a large Guerlain, either Mitsouko or L'Heure Bleue to her right.

Miriam Hopkins (1902 - 1972) - Photo via Allure. Several Czech perfume bottles shown here, some with intaglio stoppers.

Liz Taylor, I can see some Czech bottles and Caron's Bellodgia, Czech mini bottle as well as other unknown bottles.

Unknown actress/model, various Victorian to 1920s perfume bottles on vanity, mostly the dauber type. Picture looks to be from the late 1930s - early 1940s.

Janet Gaynor, she has a very tall 1920s perfume atomizer on her vanity!

Beverly Roberts, circa 1937, beautiful Czech perfume in the forefront and nice dresser set with portrait shown.

Evelyn Brent, c1930 with her perfume cabinet holding various bottles, including Ybry on the bottom shelf.

Anita Page, c1920s. Many commercial perfumes including Caron's Nuit de Noel, Caron's Naimez Que Moi, and others. She is sniffing the end of a glass dauber from the matching dresser set on her vanity (you can see the atomizer and powder jar just to her right).

German actress Freidl Haerlin, c1930, several perfumes on her vanity, including an atomizer.

Pola Negri, c1920s, holding a Guerlain atomizer (spraying her coiffure with brilliantine).

Myrna Loy, c1931, many crystal perfume bottles are displayed on her vanity.

Sylvia Sidney, c1930, Guerlain, Molinard, Elizabeth Arden, Lentheric, D'Orsay's Toujours Fidele, Myon and Caron's Bellodgia amongst others including Czech examples.

Marie Prevost, c9120, holding Czech splatter glass atomizer.

Ginger Rogers, 1940s, holding large atomizer

Ann Miller, c1950

Rita Hayworth, c1940, holding Caron's Bellodgia.

Jeanette McDonald, c1930, showing Czech perfumes as well as a tall DeVilbiss or French atomizer.

Alexander Rodchenko - Portrait au flacon, ca. 1930.

Dorothy Lee, c1930, Czech perfume bottles, Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit on far left, De Raymond's Pinx on right of dog figure.

Rita Hayworth, c1942. Her vanity is covered with perfume bottles, some look to be factices as they are huge! I see Shocking by Schiaparelli, other Schiaparelli bottles, Lucien Lelong's Indiscret, several bottles of Jean Patou's bottles, other bottles by Lanvin and Chanel, Bellodgia by Caron.

Lana Turner's Perfume Cabinet. The extremely large bottle is Far East by Carlyle. Top Shelf: Mon Image by Lucien Lelong, a Poiret perfume, Jabot by Lucien Lelong, a tiny Prince Matchabelli crown bottle, on far left a Guerlain possibly Jicky, and others. Middle Shelf: Moment Supreme by Jean Patou, Joy by Jean Patou, Evening in Paris by Bourjois, Chanel. Grand Prix by Charbert. Bottom Shelf:  a Tuvache perfume in the center, really hard to tell what is what...