Apropos by Anjou, launched in 1948, marked a significant milestone for the House of Anjou as its first post-war fragrance. The name "Apropos" is derived from the French language, meaning "appropriate" or "relevant," and is pronounced ah-pro-POH. Choosing this name reflected a sense of timely elegance, suggesting that the perfume was not only fitting for the era but also suitable for a variety of women and occasions. The word "Apropos" evokes images of refinement, adaptability, and effortless sophistication, resonating with a generation eager to reestablish normalcy and grace in the aftermath of World War II.
The late 1940s was a time of rebuilding and optimism. The world was emerging from the shadow of war, entering a period of economic recovery and cultural reinvention often referred to as the post-war era or early modern period. Fashions of the time reflected a return to femininity and glamour, as epitomized by Christian Dior’s 1947 New Look, which celebrated hourglass silhouettes, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics. Trends emphasized grace and poise, and women of the time were eager to embrace products that offered a sense of elegance and renewal. A perfume named "Apropos" would have felt modern yet versatile, appealing to women seeking to express their individuality while remaining attuned to the cultural zeitgeist.
The fragrance itself, classified as a woody-mossy-leafy forest blend chypre, was well-suited to the era’s trends. Chypre fragrances were in high demand during the mid-20th century for their ability to balance richness with refinement. The combination of earthy, mossy base notes with leafy green accords and woody undertones created a scent profile that felt natural yet sophisticated. This versatility would have made Apropos an appealing choice for women seeking a fragrance that could transition seamlessly from day to evening and from casual settings to formal occasions.
In the context of other fragrances on the market, Apropos aligned with the broader chypre trend but carved out its own identity with its unique balance of "woody-mossy-leafy" notes. Many fragrances of the time celebrated either bold floral compositions or sensual oriental blends, but Apropos stood out by embodying the serene, grounding qualities of nature. This combination of freshness, warmth, and subtle complexity would have made it both comforting and empowering for women navigating a rapidly changing world.
The scent of "Apropos" itself could be interpreted as a celebration of harmony and balance, reflecting its name. Its woody and mossy foundation evoked the timeless strength of the forest, while the leafy green elements suggested renewal and growth, mirroring the spirit of the post-war years. Women of the time likely connected to the fragrance's grounded yet versatile character, finding it as "appropriate" as its name suggested—relevant to their lives, their aspirations, and their desire to step forward into a brighter, more elegant future.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a woody-mossy-leafy forest blend chypre fragrance for women. "The second Anjou fragrance is named Apropos . . . and rightly so. A woody-mossy-leafy type, it is appropriate for many women and many occasions.."
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, orange blossom, petitgrain, galbanum
- Middle notes: herbs, carnation, lily of the valley, spices, lavender, jasmine, rose, clary sage, coriander, geranium, violet leaf
- Base notes: vetiver, cistus labdanum, styrax, civet, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka, oakmoss, benzoin, musk and ambergris
Scent Profile:
As I inhale the opening notes of Apropos, I am greeted by a bright, effervescent burst of aldehydes, like sunlight catching on dew-drenched leaves. The aldehydes lend a crisp, sparkling quality, blending seamlessly with the zesty tang of bergamot and lemon. These citrus notes are fresh and uplifting, their sharpness softened by the honeyed, slightly floral sweetness of orange blossom.
Petitgrain adds a green, woody facet, its bitter edge reminiscent of crushed citrus leaves. A hint of galbanum follows, sharp and resinous, with an earthy pungency that conjures the scent of snapped twigs and verdant undergrowth. This opening is at once invigorating and grounding, a perfect prelude to the complexity that unfolds.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a lush and textured tapestry of florals, herbs, and spices. Jasmine emerges first, creamy and intoxicating, mingling with the green, almost aquatic sweetness of lily of the valley. A bloom of rose adds a classic, romantic softness, while carnation lends its spicy, clove-like warmth, giving the florals a fiery depth. Lavender weaves its way through the bouquet, adding a soothing, slightly medicinal coolness that contrasts beautifully with the rich floral elements.
Clary sage and coriander introduce an herbaceous complexity, their aromatic qualities mingling with the peppery, green freshness of geranium. Violet leaf adds a soft, leafy facet, evoking the scent of crushed petals and freshly picked greenery. Together, these notes form a harmonious middle layer, like a vibrant garden captured in full bloom.
The dry-down brings the warm, earthy embrace of the forest floor. Oakmoss dominates, its damp, mossy aroma evocative of shaded groves and rich, fertile soil. Vetiver adds a smoky, grassy depth, while patchouli brings its signature dark, resinous character, with whispers of damp earth and ancient wood. Sandalwood and cedar provide a smooth, woody backbone, their creamy and dry facets lending sophistication and stability to the composition.
Tonka bean adds a touch of sweetness, its warm, almond-like aroma mingling with the balsamic richness of benzoin and labdanum. The animalic warmth of civet and musk lends an undeniable sensuality, their velvety depth subtly softened by the salty, slightly marine nuances of ambergris. Styrax laces the base with a resinous, leathery quality, tying together the other elements with its smoky sweetness.
The overall impression is of a walk through an enchanted forest, where sunlight filters through a dense canopy, illuminating dewy greenery, wildflowers, and ancient woods. The complexity of Apropos reflects the balance of nature itself—bright yet grounded, vibrant yet tranquil, and full of subtle contrasts that make it endlessly captivating. It’s a fragrance of timeless elegance, perfectly suited to the multifaceted women of its era.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Apropos, launched in 1948 by the House of Anjou, marked a significant moment in post-war fragrance history. Introduced during an era of renewed optimism and creativity, this woody-mossy-leafy chypre perfume embodied a sense of versatility and sophistication that resonated with women emerging from the austerity of wartime. Its enduring appeal allowed it to remain available for more than two decades, with sales continuing until around 1970, though its exact discontinuation date remains uncertain.
The late 1940s was a time of transition, as societies worldwide shifted from wartime sacrifices to peacetime luxuries. Women of the era sought refinement and individuality in their personal style, and Apropos delivered just that. Its name, derived from the French word meaning “appropriate” or “fitting,” underscored its universal appeal. As the first new fragrance from Anjou after the war, it encapsulated the elegance and practicality women desired, offering a scent "appropriate for many women and many occasions."
By the 1960s, the fragrance landscape had evolved significantly, with bold and innovative perfumes emerging to reflect the changing social and cultural dynamics. Despite these shifts, Apropos retained a loyal following, its timeless blend of bright citrus, lush florals, and earthy woods appealing to women who favored classic sophistication over fleeting trends. Its gradual disappearance from shelves around 1970 likely reflected the growing dominance of newer, more modern scents rather than any decline in its quality or desirability.
Today, Apropos serves as a poignant reminder of an era when elegance, versatility, and understated luxury defined the world of perfume. Its legacy endures as a tribute to the artistry of post-war perfumery and the enduring charm of the House of Anjou.
No comments:
Post a Comment
All comments will be subject to approval by a moderator. Comments may fail to be approved if the moderator deems that they:
--contain unsolicited advertisements ("spam")
--are unrelated to the subject matter of the post or of subsequent approved comments
--contain personal attacks or abusive/gratuitously offensive language