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Friday, April 12, 2013
Cocktail Bar a Parfums by Jean Patou c1928
In the late 1920s and early 1930s, cocktail bars emerged as cultural icons, embodying the spirit of the Jazz Age. This era, characterized by its roaring nightlife and sense of modernity, saw the cocktail bar as a central social hub where people gathered to enjoy innovative and stylish beverages. The atmosphere of these bars was glamorous and lively, appealing to the growing middle and upper classes who sought sophistication and new forms of entertainment.
In 1928, Jean Patou, ever the innovator, introduced a unique and charming feature to his Parisian showrooms: a cocktail bar. This was not merely a place to serve drinks but a strategic and thoughtful addition designed to enhance the shopping experience for both his clients and their companions. The bar was specifically intended to entertain and quench the thirsts of husbands and other men who often found themselves accompanying women during the sometimes lengthy and tedious process of fittings and fashion consultations.
In the luxurious fitting rooms of the popular Parisian couturier Jean Patou, an unusual invitation might have been heard: "Madame, while we are making this little alteration in your frock, won't you step down to the bar and take a cocktail?" This innovative concept, a cocktail bar complete with a polished counter, cozy seats, glistening bottles, and a white-coated bartender with an easy smile, became a significant hit among Patou's fashionable customers. The bar served as a delightful distraction from the tiresome delays of fittings and alterations, the indecision over which model to choose, and the doubts about prices and whether to splurge on one more dress. The affable barman, always sympathetic and helpful, added to the experience.
Interestingly, this bar was designed specifically for women. Originally, Jean Patou explained,"This is not a bar for men. I have installed this accommodation for women. Husbands and boyfriends can do their drinking around the corner. I want this to be a haven of rest and reflection for my clients." Patou believed that women appreciate a good cocktail as much as they do a good frock, and found that one stimulated them quite as much as the other. His three-piece cocktail, consisted of gin, Bacardi rum, and a secret ingredient, was particularly popular among his clients. While men were not barred from the salon, they were not particularly encouraged to stay, as the space was intended for women to think about fashion without the distraction of dressmaking bills.
The conversation at Patou's bar was unlike any typical bar setting. Politics, sports, and last night's party were replaced with discussions about dresses. Women exchanged phrases like "Have you seen this one?" rather than "Have you heard this one?" It was a space where only those who understood and appreciated tucks, ruffles, and hemlines would have felt at home.
Psychologists among the Paris dressmakers had long understood that keeping a customer's mind off the bill could ease the sales process. This insight led to the introduction of tea-dances and mannequin parades in the dress-making salons. Jean Patou's cocktail bar was a modern and most elegant evolution of this concept. The skill of his bartender in mixing drinks like "sidecars" and "rose" cocktails had even started to attract a clientele that might be tempted to buy a dress on the side, akin to a "chaser."
Patou’s showroom cocktail bar was a masterstroke in customer service and marketing. It transformed what could have been a dull and tiresome wait into a pleasant and enjoyable experience. Originally meant exclusively for women to enjoy, Jean Patou's cocktail bar eventually evolved to accommodate men who accompanied their ladies. Despite Patou's initial intention to create a haven exclusively for women to relax and reflect away from the pressures of dressmaking decisions, the appeal and convivial atmosphere of the cocktail bar extended its allure to both genders. The men, who might otherwise grow impatient or bored, were now engaged and entertained, making them more likely to view the shopping trip favorably and support the purchasing decisions of their wives or partners. This clever addition fostered a relaxed and convivial atmosphere, making the entire process more appealing and luxurious.
Flirt by Ed Pinaud c1908
In 1990, the perfume was relaunched as a special edition of only 1000 examples for the inauguration of the Museum of Edouard Pinaud, in a copy of its original flacon and box design.
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