Welcome!

Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Nysis by Agra c1919

Nysis by Agra Parfumeur: launched in 1919. Nysis was a line that included perfume, toilet water, cold cream, talc, face powder, vanishing cream, and soap.

The packaging is emblazoned with a wonderful Egyptian style woman's head wit long black hair.  Themes featuring any sort of Egyptomania was very popular during the 1920s. You can see from the advertisements below that the Egyptian theme was carried out by showing some Egyptian maidens to the upper right side of the ads. These were from a 1920 issue of Cosmopolitan.

Nysis has been discontinued since the 1920s. The products are very collectible, with the perfume and toilet water the most expensive and rare, while the face powder and the talcum tin are common.


 




Friday, June 13, 2014

Tarrant's Perfumes



TARRANT'S EXQUISITE PERFUMES (c1893)
LIST OF REGULAR ODORS: 
  • Carnation Pink 
  • Heliotrope 
  • Hyacinth 
  • Jasmine 
  • Jockey Club 
  • Lily of Valley 
  • Marechale 
  • Mille fleurs
  • Moss Rose
  • New Mown Hay 
  • Night Blooming Cereus 
  • Ocean Spray  
  • Opoponax 
  • Orange Blossom 
  • Patchouly 
  • Pond Lily 
  • Rose Geranium 
  • Stephanotis 
  • Tube Rose 
  • Violet 
  • West End 
  • White Lilac 
  • Wood Violet 
  • White Heliotrope 
  • White Rose 
  • Ylang Ylang


SPECIAL ODORS  
  • Crab Apple Blossoms 
  • Ess Bouquet
  • Frangipani
  • Mariposa Lily
  • Trailing Arbutus
  • Musk 
  • Modesty
  • Meadow Violet
  • Wild Rose



TARRANT'S TOILET WATERS
  • Lavender Double Distilled
  • Lavender Amber
  • Heliotrope 
  • VIOLET
  • White Rose 
  • White Lilac 



  • 1903 Alabaster applied to Face Powder and Face Tablet 
  • 1903 Bay Tree Brand Bay Rum 
  • 1903 Dermal as applied to Toilet and Infant Powder 
  • 1903 Exquisite Perfumes 
  • 1903 Tarrant's Golden Septre as applied to Cologne 
  • 1903 New American Cologne 
  • 1903 Victorian as applied to Perfumes Toilet Water etc 
  • 1903 Wild Rose Trade Marked June 1887 No 5301






Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Pavlova by Payot c1977

Pavlova by Payot: launched in 1977. Inspired by turn of the century opulence and named after the famous ballerina, Pavlova. Based on a perfume that was created in 1922 for Anna Pavlova. The swan motif on the packing of the modern bottles from Payot reflect the fact that Anna Pavlova owned a pet swan named Jack, a very graceful addition to her own graceful movements on stage.


Sunday, June 8, 2014

Favorite Perfumes of Queens, Princesses and Nobles


American Soap Journal and Manufacturing Chemist, Volumes 3-5, 1892:

  • Queen Marie Antoinette preferred rose
  • The Empress Josephine Bonaparte preferred musk
  • Queen Marie Amelie (wife of Louis Philippe) was fond of orange flower water 
  • Empress Eugenie preferred sandalwood and lemon verbena
  • Queen Victoria of England preferred lavender water
  • The Princess of Wales enjoyed wood violet
  • The Empress Frederick  preferred eau de cologne
  • The Empress of Austria preferred the orange scented Portugal water
  • The Queen Regent of Spain uses a specially made for her perfume of carnations.

The Leavenworth Times of 1900, revealed:

  • Queen Wilhelmina of Holland literally bathed in eau de cologne and showered with bay rum.
  • Queen Christina of Sweden favored ylang ylang and Water of Spain.
  • Queen Victoria of England still favored patchouli and lavender.
  • Empress of Russia spends 100,000 francs per year on perfumery from a single Parisian firm. Her favorite scents are: jonquil, tuberose, frangipani, orange, violet, narcissus, jasmine and ambergris.
  • The German Empress used Guerlain's sapoceti soap and enjoyed the scents of new mown hay and eau de cologne.


Washington Times, 1901:

  • Queen Wilhelmina of Holland uses eau de cologne and English soap scented with white heliotrope.
  • Empress of Russia prefers jonquil, jasmine, frangipani, violet, creme duchesse and lavender water.
  • Empress of Germany liked new mown hay
  • Empress Frederick also enjoyed eau de cologne





The Buffalo Courier, from 1903 reported the following royals scented their hair:
  • The Queen of Portugal likes Carnation Pink.
  • Queen Alexandra uses Heliotrope on her hair, which some claim is actually a wig.
  • The Dowager Queen of Spain and her daughters used a Spanish extract that is very much like rose.
  • Queen Wilhelmina also used rose toilet water to scent her hair,and her clothes are scented with roses.




The Spatula, 1903, reported the Queens' and their favorite fragrances. I have given information on which Queen was which and the perfumes and manufacturers whenever possible. All of these will be in parentheses.
  • The Queen of England (Victoria) remains constant to one perfume which is the secret of a Parisian perfumer (Francois Coty).  It is called "Coeur de Jeanette" and costs about thirty dollars a pint which is not expensive as fashionable perfumes go. 
  • The Czarina at present (Empress Alexandra) favors a special brew of Parma violets.  
  • Queen Alexandra (of Denmark) often changes her perfumes favoring among others jonquil and jasmine extracts. 
  • The German Empress (Augusta Victoria) prefers new mown hay.
  • Queen of Holland (Wilhelmina) dislikes scents with the exception of eau de cologne.

Marshall County News, 1904:

  • Princess Marie of Romania prefers rose, jasmine and white heliotrope
  • Queen of Spain prefers ylang ylang and rose
  • Queen Alexandra loves Ess. Bouquet
  • Queen Wilhelmina prefers eau de cologne



The Pittsburgh Press, 1904, also reported the Queens' and their favorite fragrances.
  • Queen Alexandra (of Denmark) prefers violet and lily of the valley.
  • Queen Wilhelmina (of Holland) prefers heliotrope and eau de cologne.
  • German Empress (Augusta Victoria) prefers the scent of new mown hay.
  • The Dowager Queen of Italy (Margherita) prefers Italian made perfumes.
  • Czarina (Empress Alexandra) prefers violets, hyacinth, gardenia, jonquil and jasmine.

Pall Mall Magazine - Volume 41, 1908:

  • Princess of Wales prefers White Rose
  • Queen Alexandra (of Denmark) prefers sweet pea
  • Queen Victoria of England preferred Mitcham's Lavender
  • Madame Patti (Opera diva) preferred Mitcham's Lavender
  • Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll prefers a blend made for her known as Imperalia.


Notions and Fancy Goods,  1908:
  • Queen Victoria of Spain prefers a mixture of iris and lavender
  • Queen Helena of Italy prefers iris and heliotrope
  • Queen Alexandra of Russia prefers violet
  • The Dowager Queen of Italy (Margherita) prefers sweet violet
  • Queen Amelia of Portugal prefers sweet violet
  • Queen Wilhelmina of Holland prefers eau de cologne


Pittsburgh Daily Post, 1908:
  • Queen Wilhelmina of Holland uses rose.
  • Queen Amelie of Portugal enjoys lilac, rose, lily of the valley, lotus and others.
  • Queen Alexandra prefers rose, violet, heliotrope
  • Crown Princess of Romania (Marie) favored roses.
  • Queen Maud of Norway, enjoyed heliotrope, violet, and mignonette
  • Queen of Spain loves carnation




The Scrap Book, Volume 9, 1910:

  • Queen Alexandra of Russia prefers Ess Bouquet (by Bayley) and Parma violet
  • Queen Wilhelmina of Holland prefers eau de cologne
  • Queen Victoria of Spain prefers eau de cologne
  • The Dowager Queen of Italy (Margherita) prefers Parma violet.


The Resurrection of the Romanovs: Anastasia, 2010:

  • "Anastasia could purchase any gifts or personal items, including her favorite Coty perfume, Violette."





Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Eastman's and Jergen's Perfumes

The Andrew Jergens Co. was located at Spring Grove Avenue and Alfred Street Cincinnati.

Established 1879. Incorporated 1901.

As of 1903:
  • Andrew Jergens, President 
  • Herman F Jergens, Vice President 
  • Charles H Geilfus, Secretary and Treasurer 

The perfumes of Jergens:
  • 1883 Aloha
  • 1901 Carnation Petals 
  • 1901 Crushed Roses 
  • 1901 Heliotrope
  • 1901 Jockey Club
  • 1901 Verona Violette 
  • 1903 Doris
  • 1903 Ben Hur 
  • 1903 Blue Bells of Scotland 
  • 1903 Blue Roses 
  • 1903 Chic 
  • 1903 Chinese Incense 
  • 1903 Crushed Carnations 
  • 1903 Easter Violette 
  • 1903 Eutaska Flowers 
  • 1903 Lavender 
  • 1903 Fowchow Musk 
  • 1903 Heliotrope Petals 
  • 1903 Japan Rose 
  • 1903 Lily of the Valley Petals 
  • 1903 Lotus Flower 
  • 1903 Marie Antoinette 
  • 1903 Nile Carnation 
  • 1903 Normandy Rose 
  • 1903 Normandy Violette 
  • 1903 Parfumerie Ed Belezaire 
  • 1903 Ponce de Leon 
  • 1903 Pretty Pink Perfume 
  • 1903 Queen of Hearts 
  • 1903 Real Violette Spirits 
  • 1903 Rosa de Grenada 
  • 1903 Rose of Killarney 
  • 1903 Royal Arbutus 
  • 1903 Royal Jockey Club 
  • 1903 Royal Lily of China 
  • 1903 Royal Perfumes 
  • 1903 Scotch Thistle 
  • 1903 Sweet Heather 
  • 1903 Sweet Marie Perfume 
  • 1903 The 4 Clovers 
  • 1903 Viola Orris 
  • 1903 Violette d'Orleans 
  • 1903 Violette de Lorme 
  • 1903 Violette of Saville 
  • 1903 Violette Petals 
  • 1903 White Rose Petals 
  • 1903 White Apple Blossoms 
  • 1903 Wild Azalea 
  • 1903 Wild Clover Blossom 
  • 1903 Zenobia 
  • 1907 Andrea
  • 1907 Yutopia
  • 1907 Lilac Blossom
  • 1907 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1907 Violet de Luxe
  • 1907 Ocean Spray
  • 1907 Stephanotis
  • 1910 Violet
  • 1910 Orchid
  • 1912 Arbutus
  • 1915 Japanese Bouquet
  • 1916 Nifty
  • 1918 Geranium
  • 1919 Royal perfume
  • 1920 Lily of the Valley
  • 1920 Crab Apple Blossom
  • 1921 Jac-Lin
  • 1922 Bateek, relaunched in 1939
  • 1924 Crushed Violets
  • 1924 Rose 
  • 1924 Carnation
  • 1924 Gardenia
  • 1928 Bijou de l'Air
  • 1928 Ombres
  • 1928 Fleurs Dansantes
  • 1929 Superba
  • 1931 Memoires de Paris
  • 1941 Morning Glory
  • 1945 Marimba
  • 1946 Cupid's Delight
  • 1946 Dream Stuff
  • 1948 Atom Bomb
  • 1952 White Veil
  • 1959 Sorcery
  • 1962 Lilac Frost
  • 1963 Zia


Eastman Perfume Company of Cincinnati, OH. Eastman's was a subdivision of the Andrew Jergens Company.

Merck Report, Volume 2, 1893:
"THE EASTMAN AND BRO - PHILADELPHIA PENN
The Eastman and Bro Co of Philadelphia is an incorporated company of which John I. Eastman is President and Robert C. Eastman, General Manager. The business was established in 1877 by Eastman, the company being incorporated in January 1891. They recently moved into a new and extensive factory,  100 x 200 feet and 6 stories in height. They have sales rooms at 426 Broome Street York 87 and 89 Washington Street Chicago, and 16 Second Street Francisco. Their business is done almost entirely through traveling salesmen. We give an illustration of the trade mark and most distinctive issued by this house."



The images below come from a 1901 AC McClurg Co catalog.























There are many more perfumes, if I left one out, let me know.

The perfumes of Eastman's
  • 1887 Acacia 
  • 1887 Aloha
  • 1887 Arbutus
  • 1887 Azalea 
  • 1887 Blue Bells of Scotland
  • 1887 Bouquet de Caroline
  • 1887 Carnation Pink
  • 1887 Edelweiss
  • 1887 English Violet
  • 1887 Essence Bouquet
  • 1887 Fowchow Musk
  • 1887 Frangipanni
  • 1887 Heliotrope
  • 1887 Jacqueminot Rose
  • 1887 Japanese Myrtle
  • 1887 Jasmine
  • 1887 Jockey Club
  • 1887 Jonquille
  • 1887 Lilac
  • 1887 Lily of the Valley
  • 1887 Lotus Flower
  • 1887 Magnolia
  • 1887 Manono
  • 1887 Marechale
  • 1887 Marie Antoinette
  • 1887 Mignonette
  • 1887 Millefleurs
  • 1887 Millionaire
  • 1887 Moss Rose
  • 1887 Musk Rose
  • 1887 Myrtle Musk
  • 1887 New Mown Hay
  • 1887 Night blooming Cereus
  • 1887 Ocean Spray
  • 1887 Opoponax
  • 1887 Orange Flower
  • 1887 Patchouly
  • 1887 Pond Lily
  • 1887 Pure Musk Tincture
  • 1887 Rose Geranium
  • 1887 Royal Essences
  • 1887 Royal Frangipanni
  • 1887 Stephanotis
  • 1887 Sweet Briar
  • 1887 Tea Rose
  • 1887 Tuberose
  • 1887 Upper Ten
  • 1887 Verbena
  • 1887 Violette de Parme
  • 1887 West End
  • 1887 White Heliotrope
  • 1887 White Rose
  • 1887 Wild Roses
  • 1887 Ylang Ylang
  • 1888 Hawthorne 
  • 1888 Violet 
  • 1888 Cologne Mixture 
  • 1888 Daphne Odora 
  • 1888 Fraxinella 
  • 1888 French Clover 
  • 1888 Gloria Heliotrope 
  • 1888 Honeysuckle 
  • 1888 Hedyosmia 
  • 1888 Hyacinth 
  • 1888 Lavender Roses 
  • 1888 Limetta  
  • 1888 Oleander 
  • 1888 Ocean Spray 
  • 1888 Oppoponax 
  • 1888 Reseda 
  • 1888 Rondeletia  
  • 1888 Sweet Shrub 
  • 1888 Sweet Pea 
  • 1888 Vetivert 
  • 1894 Sweet Marie
  • 1894 Florida water
  • 1894 June Rose
  • 1896 Persian Violet
  • 1896 La Belle
  • 1896 Eau de Cologne
  • 1896 Russian Violet
  • 1897 Easter Violet
  • 1899 Crushed Rose
  • 1899 Royal Lily of China
  • 1899 Violette de Cyrano
  • 1899 White Clover
  • 1899 Violet Water
  • 1900 Heliotrope
  • 1900 Jacqueminot Rose
  • 1900 White Rose Petals
  • 1900 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1901 Zenobia
  • 1901 Apple Blossom
  • 1901 Normandy Rose
  • 1901 Martha Washington
  • 1902 Pinal
  • 1900 Queen of Holland Violette
  • 1910 Queen of Hearts (Jergens)
  • 1921 Seville Violets
  • 1921 Verona Violet
  • Otto Rose

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Victorian Attar Perfume Bottles

Otto of Lavender, Otto of Rose, Rose Attar, Rose Oil bottles, Oxford lavender bottles, lay down bottles, reclining perfumes...



These types of bottles are known as the throwaway bottles, these long skinny glass bottles often had gilded decorations, these bottles were for the attar or otto of rose or lavender.

These were called throwaway bottles as when the lady of the house returned from the store where she purchased her otto bottle, she would then decant the contents into her own fancy bottles on her vanity or in her chatelaine scent bottle. The majority of these rather crude perfume bottles were made more for the common folk than the wealthy.

I had reported previously that the bottles were only made in Germany and Bohemia but upon further research, I have found that many of the gilded examples actually originated in Turkey.

These flacons were manufactured in glass houses in Turkey at Beykoz. Selim III (18th century) sent Dervish Mehmet Dede to Venice to learn the art of glass-making and on his return a glass workshop was established at Beykoz. Although the manufacture of glass had existed since the early Ottoman period, the production was limited to utilitarian bottles and vases or stained-glass panels used in architecture. Art glass was imported from Venice during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and later from Bohemia. Beykoz is a small village near the Black Sea on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. It is one of the oldest communities in Istanbul and has been a center of Islamic glass manufacturing since establishment of a factory in the late eighteenth century, producing a considerable amount of glass and crystal ware. The goblets, bowls,  stemmed bowls, tulip and rose-water flasks, bottles and dishes in transparent or opaque glass - some decorated and others gilded glassware - from Mehmet Dede's workshop are called “Beykoz isi”, or Beykoz work.


Bulgarian historical review, 1975:
"The vial (muskal) is a glass container with a capacity of 4.81 grammes of attar of roses. It is an Arab measure and its value was equal to 24 karats of gold. The vials had different forms and decorations. To prevent them from breaking, they were laid in a wooden container."




These were sold at spas, fairs and shops and not made for refill, hence the name throwaway. The earliest mention I have found for them is in an 1804 newspaper, The Times (London).



Another early mention is from an 1830 New York Evening Post newspaper, "Otto of Roses, in small gilt bottles, warranted pure, put up in boxes of one dozen each."



Edgefield Advertiser, 1856:
"This oil is brought to Constantinople in hermetically sealed copper vessels, varying in size from those capable of holding an ounce to those which hold seven pounds, so that, at the regular market price, ($6 an ounce), one of these copper cases may be worth $50. The oil is worth six times its  weight in silver. The ordinary amount of oil produced in Hassanlik (in Bulgaria) is a little less than 3,000 pounds. At Constantinople the oil is put up in gilt bottles, manufactured expressly for the purpose in Bohemia."
"



Most bottles measure 7” to 8” long and have a ground stopper with a round, flat top. These bottles were usually made of clear glass, but can also be found in blue, amber, green or other colors.


These bottles were blown glass and the stoppers often had a long dauber that reached down near the end of the bottle, the glass was decorated with ovals, crisscrosses, spirals, crosshatching, and flat planes cut into the sides. The bottles were hand decorated with bright enamels or rich gilding.

These are not tear bottles. They were made to hold perfume oils.


American journal of pharmacy, 1868:
"Attar of rose is exported in large quantities in what are called cuncumas that is to say flat flasks of tinned copper having a short and narrow neck. These vary in capacity from 1 to 10 pounds they are sewed up in white cloth either at Kizanlik or when necessary at Constantinople sealed and provided with the Custom House ticket. Among the bottles must be mentioned the long angular little vials usually of minute capacity. These cut and gilded glass bottles in which attar is so often imported are said to be of German manufacture, which travellers bring home as presents after a journey in the East. They hold perhaps about fifteen drops of oil are tied over with bladder and red silk and what invests them with most value are sold in the bazaar to the unwitting traveller at a high price. They often contain simply a few drops of geranium oil the bladder being smeared with a touch of attar."


Good Housekeeping, 1880:
"The otto, which many persons like to have lie amongst their clothing in small vials, should not be purchased except from dealers of well- known character. It is sometimes amusing to note how people, otherwise shrewd, will allow some Armenian in a red fez to sell them an article purporting to be genuine " Turkish Otto of Rose," and which, at the best, is doubtful. The long narrow cut and gilt bottles said to contain otto usually contain Turkish oil of rose geranium with perhaps a touch of otto just under the cap and are dear at any price asked by vendors of no responsibility. Even among large dealers in perfumes oils and extracts it takes a long experience to buy understandingly otto of rose musk or vanilla some one or two dealers in the larger cities making a of one of these articles and employing their own expert grade them."




New Remedies: An Illustrated Monthly Trade Journal of Material, Vol 9, 1880:
"Original Packages of Otto of Rose. Otto of rose is now generally imported in kunkumas, which are flattened round tin bottles sewed up in thick white woollen cloth, holding 1 to 10 lbs, and bearing a calico label inscribed in Turkish characters. The label should indicate the tare of the bottle in Turkish weights, the rough rule for calculating which is to take 10 drachms as equal to 1 oz English. The small, gilt, white glass bottles which are commonly the only original bottles known to retail druggists, are imported from Germany into Constantinople, and are there filled by the merchants. These also should bear a calico label indicating the tare in Turkish weights. The epithets Virgin and Optiss are of English origin they are quite unknown in Turkey, and seem to have no equivalents there. They are probably applied arbitrarily according to the vendor's belief in the purity of his samples. All gilt bottles of otto may be treated alike."

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