Norell by Norell c1968

 Norell by Norell, launched in 1968 in collaboration with Revlon, was not merely a fragrance; it embodied the iconic designer Norman Norell's vision of American elegance and sophistication. Norman Norell, a titan in American fashion, was known for his meticulous attention to detail and commitment to timeless, refined styles. The choice to name the perfume "Norell" was a strategic one, reinforcing his brand's identity with simplicity and boldness. Pronounced "Nor-ELL," the name resonates with elegance and sophistication, evoking images of chic, well-dressed women in luxurious surroundings. For women in the late 1960s, a perfume labeled "Norell" carried the allure of wearing an American couture designer's creation, suggesting a lifestyle of polished glamour that mirrored Norell's fashion aesthetic.

The scent of Norell captures that same essence, crafted by renowned perfumer Josephine Catapano. This fragrance was a departure from the heavy, heady scents of previous decades, introducing a fresh, green floral profile that felt bold and modern. The fragrance opens with a burst of green, leafy notes—clean, crisp, and invigorating—an immediate breath of fresh air. In the heart, a bouquet of Bulgarian rose, jasmine absolute, and hyacinth adds a layered floral complexity, with touches of carnation spice lending depth and character. The scent settles into a warm, woody base where notes of sandalwood, oakmoss, amber, and musk create a lasting and sophisticated finish. The fragrance, as described by Norell, was designed to have a "kick," echoing the fresh, dynamic spirit of the era.

 The late 1960s was a time of significant change in the fragrance world, as American perfumers were pushing boundaries to create high-quality, luxury scents on par with French perfumes. The launch of Norell marked a turning point, positioning it as the first American designer fragrance to achieve that level of prestige. This perfume’s launch coincided with Estee Lauder’s entry into high-end fragrances, a moment that symbolized the fierce rivalry between Lauder and Revlon. Revlon, with Norell, offered a direct challenge to Lauder's elegance with a fragrance born from an American icon, infused with Norell’s commitment to exceptional quality and style.

The partnership between Norman Norell and Revlon was rumored to have roots in Mrs. Revson's admiration for Norell's fashions, potentially bridging the connection between her husband, Revlon’s head, and the designer. True to his perfectionist standards, Norell demanded that every aspect of the perfume, from its composition to packaging, be crafted in America. With its refined fragrance, luxury packaging, and proudly American origins, Norell quickly became a high-end staple, symbolizing American design excellence at a time when French perfumes dominated the market.

In 1968, The San Bernardino Sun captured the meticulous journey behind the creation of Norell by Norman Norell with remarkable insight. The article hinted at the groundbreaking shift in fragrance marketing, noting that “Who’s that you’re wearing?” would soon refer to perfume as much as to fashion. Norman Norell, renowned for his fastidious approach to fashion, applied the same unwavering precision to the development of his first fragrance. Known for producing collections with flawless attention to detail, Norell poured even more time and energy into perfecting the scent that would carry his name.

The process stretched over a year, marked by countless rounds of “conferring and sniffing.” Each potential formula had to please not only Norell but also Revlon’s Charles Revson, whose expertise in the beauty industry fueled Revlon’s dominance in American cosmetics. The challenges went beyond just the scent itself; Norell and Revson’s high standards extended to the packaging, bottle design, and advertising concept—every aspect of the product had to reflect the quality synonymous with the Norell brand. Norell himself was so exacting that even when he thought the fragrance was nearing perfection, he would ask the perfumers to refine it further.

The fragrance that was finally chosen embodied a unique duality, with fresh jasmine and other floral notes blended delicately with sandalwood to create a scent that was “fresh yet exotic and lingering.” This composition reflected Norell’s vision for a fragrance that could feel sophisticated and modern, with an exotic allure that would appeal to the evolving tastes of women in the late 1960s. It was a scent that, much like his clothing, would leave an unforgettable impression, marking a new era where the name Norell would evoke not only visual elegance but also an olfactory signature.

The debut of Norell by Norell in 1968 was no less than a high-society spectacle, reflecting the luxurious and elevated standards of both Norman Norell’s brand and the perfume itself. Hosted at New York’s prestigious Bonwit Teller, the event was a black-tie affair that took over two floors of the upscale department store. Guests, among them celebrities like Lauren Bacall and socialites such as the Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitneys, enjoyed a cocktail reception and fashion show on the fourth floor, followed by a supper dance held in a transformed sixth-floor discotheque. Black and white balloons festooned the ceilings, while an elaborate buffet spread satisfied the discerning palates of the roughly 250 attendees, underscoring the exclusivity and sophistication of the occasion.

In Bonwit Teller's Fifth Avenue windows, giant, colorful images of the Norell perfume bottle flashed on and off, accompanied by displays of Norell coats. This visual spectacle not only captivated the attention of passersby but also solidified Norell as a luxury brand that blended fashion and fragrance in a distinctly American style. In addition to Bonwit Teller, Norell was also available in select high-end stores like Nan Duskin and John Wanamaker in Philadelphia, making it accessible to an elite clientele across the East Coast.

Upon its release, Norell perfume retailed at $50 an ounce—a price that positioned it as a luxury fragrance on par with French offerings. The first-year sales reached an impressive $1 million, affirming its status as an “instant success” and reflecting American consumers' desire for high-quality, homegrown luxury. For those looking to make an even grander statement, a 32-ounce bottle was also available, priced at an astounding $1,000.

Norell continued to gain traction over the years, reaching annual sales of $10 million by 1974. Expanding the line, Revlon introduced a Norell-branded lipstick, touted as “the most expensive lipstick in the market” at $7.50, furthering the brand’s luxury appeal with a refill priced at $3.75. As demand and brand prestige grew, so did the price of Norell parfum: it climbed from $60 per ounce in 1978 to $75 per ounce by 1984, making it more expensive than Chanel No. 5, which was priced at $55 per ounce during that period. By 1993, Norell commanded $150 per ounce, maintaining its reputation as a high-status fragrance that symbolized American luxury and sophistication, as well as the legacy of Norman Norell’s vision.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. It is a floral with green overtones, fresh, not heavy, described by Norell as a fragrance with a kick to it. It starts with a fresh leafy green top, followed by a green mixed floral heart, resting on a powdery floral base.

"A rich floral bouquet, Bulgarian rose and jasmine absolute is blended with green notes of fresh hyacinth and the rich spiciness of carnations. The warm, woody background derives its richness from rare sandalwood, oakmoss, amber and musk."

• Top notes: green notes, reseda, lavender, mandarin orange, galbanum, bergamot, narcissus and lemon
• Middle notes: hyacinth, mimosa, coriander, carnation, orris, gardenia, cinnamon, orchid, arum lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang, Bulgarian rose and cardamom
• Base notes: iris, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar and myrrh

Scent Profile:

Norell by Norell opens with an invigorating, green freshness that feels both airy and complex. The top notes introduce a lively blend of verdant elements, giving the impression of dew-kissed leaves in a secluded garden at dawn. Green notes mingle with the delicate, herbal whisper of reseda, grounding the fragrance with its subtle pepperiness. 

Lavender brings a clean, calming aroma, softened by mandarin orange’s sweet zest and the bright tartness of bergamot. Hints of narcissus add an earthy floral depth, while galbanum injects a slightly bitter, resinous edge that anchors the fragrance in a crisp verdancy, punctuated by a final squeeze of lemon's citrusy clarity.

As Norell unfolds, it blossoms into a lavish floral heart that is as vivid as it is romantic. Hyacinth imparts a cool, green sweetness, almost aquatic in nature, while mimosa adds a honeyed warmth with a soft, airy quality. The aromatic spice of coriander threads through, mingling with the clove-like bite of carnation and the creamy depth of gardenia. Orris root weaves a velvety texture through this floral tapestry, balancing the sharper florals with its powdery smoothness. 

Meanwhile, cinnamon and cardamom add a hint of warmth and spice, their earthy piquancy lending a subtle oriental touch. At the heart of this bouquet, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang interlace their intoxicating, exotic sweetness, complemented by the velvety richness of Bulgarian rose, imbuing the fragrance with a sense of timeless femininity and sophistication.

The base notes reveal themselves slowly, as the florals subside and the fragrance begins to settle into a deeper, more sensual character. Iris contributes a lingering, powdery quality, elegant and soft, while sandalwood enriches the fragrance with its creamy, woody warmth.

 Oakmoss adds an earthy complexity, a touch of forest floor dampness that pairs beautifully with the warm, resinous amber and grounding vetiver. Musk lends a subtle, skin-like warmth that makes the fragrance feel intimate and inviting. Cedar’s dry woodiness enhances the fragrance’s structural depth, while

Product Line:

The Norell by Norell product line was expansive, offering a range of luxurious formats that allowed consumers to experience the fragrance in everything from concentrated perfumes to pampering body products. This extensive selection echoed the brand's commitment to sophistication and catered to the desires of both fragrance enthusiasts and luxury seekers who valued the finer details of a curated, layered scent experience.

At the core of the line were the parfums, with options ranging from a 1/16 oz Micro Mini for intimate wear to a full 2 oz bottle of pure parfum for those desiring a more pronounced and enduring impression. The parfums were available in a variety of sizes, including 1/8 oz miniatures, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz formats, each providing a higher concentration of the floral-green scent in its richest form.

For ease of application, Norell offered a variety of portable and spray options. These included a Touch Perfume Concentrate in a convenient roll-on and smaller sprays in 0.2 oz and 0.4 oz sizes for those on the go. The line also featured a 1/2 oz Perfume Spray and the Luxury Perfume Spray for more indulgent application, perfect for enveloping oneself in the scent's layers of floral, woody, and musky notes.

For those who preferred a lighter touch, Norell came in Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum forms. Eau de Toilette sprays ranged from a 1.7 oz size to a more generous 3.3 oz bottle, while a 0.23 oz Eau de Toilette Splash mini provided a more delicate version of the scent for subtle, refreshing wear. The Eau de Parfum, available in a 2.25 oz spray, provided a middle ground between the intensity of the parfum and the lighter Eau de Toilette.

The cologne offerings expanded the line even further, from smaller sizes like a 0.3 oz Cologne Spray to a lavish 8 oz Cologne Splash, with options in between, including 1.25 oz, 1.75 oz, and 2.25 oz spray and splash formats. For those seeking a more concentrated form, the Cologne Spray Concentrate provided a more potent rendition of the cologne’s classic scent profile.

Norell also curated an array of bath and body products, turning daily rituals into an indulgent experience. These included a Perfumed Body Lustre Lotion and Perfumed Dusting Powder, each providing a softer, all-over fragrance application with a hint of shimmer or powdery softness. The line extended to a 6 oz Perfumed Bath Powder, an 8 oz Perfumed Bath Oil, and an 8 oz Perfume Milk Bath, which transformed a bath into a fragrant, pampering experience. For those who sought after-scent care, the line also included Elegant Body Powder (4 oz), Elegant Body Lotion (8 oz), Elegant Bathing Gel (8 oz), and Elegant Body Crème (8.25 oz).

Solid perfumes brought a touch of artistry with designs in miniature compacts, like the 1/8 oz Concentrated Perfume Pillbox, 1/8 oz Perfume in a Pot, and a unique 0.25 oz Perfume Basketweave Pillbox, perfect for on-the-go touch-ups or as collectible keepsakes.

Through this vast selection, Norell by Norell created a deeply layered fragrance experience, offering a way to wear the scent in every conceivable form, from the most concentrated parfum to the indulgent body lotions and bath gels that turned a beauty ritual into a luxurious event. Each product was crafted with the same attention to quality that defined Norman Norell’s fashion legacy, making this line not just a perfume, but an iconic American luxury brand in its own right.

 

Bottles:

The Norell by Norell parfum flacon captures an elegant, minimalist sophistication that perfectly aligns with Norman Norell’s vision of refined luxury. The bottle itself is a squat, rectangular shape crafted from clear crystal, its prismatic panels lending it a sense of light and dimension. This design choice gives the flacon a substantial presence while remaining understated, allowing the crystal’s clarity and angles to speak for themselves. The prismatic panels catch and refract light, creating subtle, mesmerizing sparkles that accentuate the fragrance’s essence of refined glamour.

Topping the bottle is a faceted, columnar cut glass stopper, meticulously crafted to resemble a miniature glass pillar. Its shape adds an architectural element to the bottle, hinting at a sense of solidity and strength that echoes Norell’s dedication to perfection. This stopper, with its intricate faceting, adds a touch of ornamentation without detracting from the bottle’s otherwise streamlined silhouette, striking a balance between opulence and restraint.

The only adornment on the bottle is the name “Norell,” screen-printed in a simple, lowercase script on the front, further reinforcing the design’s ethos of clarity and refinement. This unembellished branding speaks to Norell’s confidence in the product’s reputation and the fragrance’s unique identity, needing no further elaboration.

The presentation box is equally intentional in its simplicity, acting as an exact replica of the Norell fashion label. A clean, white background is emblazoned with the single word “NORELL” in bold, capitalized black letters. This straightforward design mirrors the bottle’s essence, creating a cohesive presentation that resonates with Norell’s modernist philosophy.

You can also find the factice parfum bottles that were used for advertising at the perfume counters. These dummy bottles were filled with colored water, not perfume. 

Several sizes:

• 8 1/2" tall
• 8 1/4" tall
• 6 1/2" tall
• 6" tall
• 4" tall

The bottles for the cologne, eau de toilette and the eau de parfums were tall, clear glass bottles with paneled sides, topped with brass caps trimmed with black.

In 1982, a special limited edition bottle was presented. Known as the "Black Onyx Jeweler's Edition", the bottle holds 2.25 oz of Cologne Spray Concentrate. Apparently this flacon was only sold at Tiffany & Company.

Fate of the Fragrance:

You may notice that there are different manufacturers listed on the Norell packaging in addition to the Norell Perfumes, Inc name.  From 1968 til 1988, the bottles will be marked Norell Perfumes, Inc. 

From 1989 to 1996, you will find packaging marked "Prestige Fragrances", a division of Revlon, which sold primarily to department and specialty stores, and included the lines for Ciara, Halston, Bill Blass for women, Norell, and Di Borghese. In 1989, Revlon's Prestige Fragrances Ltd. planned to reemphasize Norell for the fall season and introduced the Norell Elegant Bath Luxuries.

The Rose Sheet, 1995:

"Marketing in Brief: Norell Fragrance Group 

Norell Fragrance Group: Will expand distribution of Norell women's scent to England, France and the Far East in early 1996. In addition, the company said it is "working aggressively to keep Norell in the high-end retail market" in the U.S. Norell is repositioning the fragrance to attract younger consumers -- women in their mid-20's and older -- rather than the scent's historic 35-55 target age group. The firm said it will promote Norell with "millions of scented pieces" to be distributed at point-of-sale and through targeted mailings and print ads that break in February in Elle, People and Cosmopolitan. Also, during the third quarter of 1996, Norell will bring back the "famous Norell red lipstick" as a g-w-p, the firm says, adding that eventually, the lipstick may come back as a stand-alone item. Norell Fragrance Group also is developing treatment items under the Norell name. A group of investors formed Norell Fragrance Group upon purchasing the Norell brand from Revlon in October."

In 1997, Jeffrey Dame, former Parlux executive vice president, formed a new company, Five Star Fragrance, Bohemia, NY. Mr. Dame, who had acquired the Norell trademark from Revlon's Norell Perfumes subsidiary, planned to relaunch the 28-year-old signature scent. that year using original formulas at high concentrations. The 1998 Norell ad campaign released by the company featured celebrity Faye Dunaway.

According to Happi magazine, Mr. Dame said he wanted to develop a portfolio of prestige fragrance trademarks through the acquisition of existing brands and the licensing of new fashion trademarks. Five Star Fragrances acquired some other brands including Bill Blass, Vicky Tiel, Royal Secret, and Galore. 

• Norell Perfumes, Inc/Revlon (1968-1988)
• Prestige Fragrances (1989-1996)
• Five Star Fragrances (1997-present)

In 2015, Norell was reformulated and relaunched in new packaging. This modern green floral opens with a lush radiance that exudes a playful effervescence with an airy floral bouquet and sensual finish. This new perfume is sold exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. A 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum and a Body Cream are currently available. An exquisite limited edition Baccarat crystal flacon containing 1.7 oz of Parfum is available for $1,500 (only 500 examples worldwide).

• Top notes: galbanum, mandarin, bergamot and pear
• Middle notes: jasmine, peony, gardenia and orchid
• Base notes: orris butter, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla and musk

Norell II:

With the ultimate success of Norell, a flanker scent was added to the line in 1979. Norell 2, a chypre fragrance for women, was described as a warm floral bouquet with green, woody oriental undertones. If I am not mistaken, Norell II was created by International Fragrances and Flavors perfume Rayda Vega. It was created for younger women, ages 25 to 35, college educated, urban and making more than $30,000 a year. She was being defined as warmer and sexier than the older, classic Norell lady.

An underlayer of Bulgarian rose, jasmine, violet, a spiciness provided by baby marigold which is underscored by a woodsy note of vetiver and sexy patchouli. The dry down is based on a long lasting complex of oakmoss, amber and precious woods.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, galbanum
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, jasmine, baby marigold, spices, other floral notes
• Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, leather, vanilla

This new Norell perfume has a reddish color and was packaged in the familiar looking Norell bottles, but this time the bottles are frosted glass and the caps are accented with red trim. It was this theme of red that has some fragrance devotees thinking the name was actually Norell Red. Norel Red was the name of an Ultima lipstick shade put out in the 197s. This sultry crimson hue was sold as a gift with purchase alongside Norell perfumes in the 1970s-1990s. The bottle was packaed in a black box with red letters.

Unfortunately, Norell II was discontinued after only a few years of its introduction and can be quite hard to find.