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Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Sunday, March 23, 2014

The Inky Mouth

Artificially enameling of the teeth became all the rage during the sixteenth century in Italy. Wealthy  Italian ladies had their teeth enameled in a rainbow of colors. This probably started to cover badly stained or rotten teeth. A white enamel was used to cover these flaws. But later it evolved into its own fad, and healthy teeth might be enameled in a variety of colors, usually they opted for red or green, but the most desired colors were pastels.

Extensive use of sugar was known to blacken the teeth and black teeth became an Elizabethan status symbol. This fashion fad was so popular amongst Upper Class Elizabethans that cosmetics were used to create an illusion of black teeth. Only the wealthy could afford to use sugar.

During Imperial Russia during the 17th to 18th Centuries, women, dyed their teeth black. Their diets were low in vitamins and calcium which made their teeth discolored. To whiten them, noble Russian women would use mercury powders, this process caused the teeth to decay. In order to hide this, the women would rub a black substance called ackli over their teeth.

In areas of Southeast Asia,the cultural reasons for tooth blackening is due to a belief that only wild animals, demons and savages had long white teeth. Originally, some Vietnamese would blacken their teeth in order to not be mistaken for an evil spirit.

 The chewing of betel nut is quite widespread in Southeast Asia – it actually turns teeth brown but some Vietnamese women have their teeth lacquered for beauty reasons.


The chemistry of tooth blackening is complicated and the betel chewing is only a part of the process of deliberate tooth staining. In Vietnam a red resin obtained from secretions of an insect that sucks the sap of a host tree, is used as a dye to further the appearance. This dye is next diluted with lemon juice of alcohol and after being stored for a couple of days the dye is applied with pressure to the teeth. Next an application of iron or copper covers it in blue-black enamel-like surface.

A familiar Vietnamese folk song sums up the old standards of feminine beauty in the following verse:
"I love you, first because you are wearing your hair in a rooster tail; second due to your charming speech; third, since you've got dimpled cheeks, and fourth because your glossy blackened teeth exceed jet in their beauty"

Ohaguro is a Japanese custom of dyeing one's teeth black. It was most popular in Japan until the Meiji era, as well as in the southeastern parts of China and Southeast Asia. Dyeing was mainly done by married women, though occasionally men did it as well. It was also beneficial, as it prevented tooth decay, in a similar fashion to modern dental sealants. Due to the odor and labor required for the process, as well as a feeling among young women that they were aging, ohaguro was done only by married women, unmarried women who were older than 18, prostitutes and geisha. For rural people, ohaguro was done only at times of special celebrations, such as matsuri, wedding ceremonies, and funerals.

 The main ingredient was a smelly dark-brown colored liquid made of an acetic acid called kanemizu (かねみず;) with iron dissolved in it. Gallnut powder and tannin powder were blended in, turning it non-water soluble. When the liquid combined with the tannins, it would turn black. Coating the teeth with this liquid helped to prevent tooth decay and enamel decay. The dye had to be applied once a day or once every few days.

Ohaguro is black tooth wax used by Maiko for that brief period of ‘Erikae’ — turning their collar from red to white — when they graduate from Maiko to Geisha. Ohaguro was originally done with black ink several times a week to maintain the color, in modern times, a black wax is used and rubbed onto the teeth with the finger. Traditionally this practice was for the wealthy, female members of the household would begin Ohaguro upon reaching adulthood.


As a convenient prescription, a fine powder of gallnut powder, sulfuric acid, and oyster shell could also be applied to the teeth, though this never really caught on.

In theatrical plays, ink mixed with turpentine was used, though these days, ink mixed with tooth wax is used.

The Moors were also fond of the blackened teeth, in a love poem, a man tells of his ideal beauty:

The Inky Mouth:
O strange and lovely sight
A smudge of ink, all staining
A luscious mouth containing
The wine of sweet delight
Like pitch, a flask of pure
And sparkling liquor lining
Withe the moon's crescent shining
Upon a night obscure.

Dorothy Gray Salon Cold Cream

Dorothy Gray's Salon Cold Cream advertisement, early 1950s. From the music in the beginning, it sounded like it was from I Love Lucy. I think Dorothy Gray was one of their early sponsors, hence the commercial.

Dorothy Gray Salon Cold Cream, her face is actually covered in radioactive dirt so that it would read on the Geiger counter, pay attention to the commercial. Then the cold cream would remove every trace of it. This was ONLY done for the commercial, to show you the effectiveness of the cream, live on a commercial. There was no radioactive materials included in the cream for everyday use by housewives at home or at the Dorothy Gray salons. It was just for the commercial to show how the cleansing cream worked.

Vintage Face Patters

In 1923, Dorothy Grey introduced The Face Patter, to stimulate circulation and ... The Face Patter to stimulate circulation, which gave cheeks a natural, rosy glow. It was also used for “reducing a double chin at the same time making the muscles firm”,” to firm loose muscles and a crepy throat”, and “for erasing lines and wrinkles.”


“Pat your way to perfection with the little Dorothy Gray Patter. One, two, three! One, two, three! The brisk, rhythmic patting stimulates a rapid, healthy circulation, making the muscles firm, keeping the skin clear and bright. And its all so quick, so easy! The Dorothy Gray Patter does its work deftly and well. It costs only $2.50.” “Pat a thin face gently,” the instructions read, “a plump face firmly.”


The face patter was a simple round slice of rubber stuck on the end of a handle that measured a foot long. A "specially contrived instrument for stimulating the facial muscles without irritating the skin".



The directions called for cleaning the skin with the Dorothy Gray Cleansing Cream, then patting on the Circulation Cream, then applying the non-fattening, emollient Special Mixture Tissue Cream for circulation, then applying the mild, refreshing Orange Flower Skin Tonic astringent and rhythmically patting some more, finally patting on the Astringent Lotion, the effective contour astringent..



In 1932, Margaret Dibble applied for a patent on her improved face patter made up of sponge rubber. Her design added a pocket/ cut out portion so that a cake of soap could be slipped in or astringent could be poured inside. The function of the dampened patter using soap was to massage and stimulate the pores for efficient and deeper cleansing of the face, in which a foaming lather would be produced by moving the patter in a circular motion over the face.


For patting purposes, a small amount of astringent could be poured into the pocket, allowing the liquid to fully penetrate the one side of the patter made up of spongy material. The other side would be for powder or massaging of the face. The handle of the patter was made up rubber, which allowed flexibility and reduced fatigue from usage. Her patent was granted in 1934.

Elizabeth Arden also came out with a face patter.


Marcel Rochas

Marcel Rochas was born in Paris, France in 1902. He opened his house in 1924. He was encouraged by Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard and Paul Poiret. In 1931, Marcel ROCHAS opened his fashion house to the 12 Matignon avenue. His customers are composed, amongst other things, stars Hollywood such as Carole Lombard, Marlène Dietrich and among others. For the actress Mae West, Marcel Rochas created a black wasp-waisted corset of Chantilly lace.



Zanol Perfumes and George Lorenz Perfumes

Zanol. The American Products Company of Cincinnati, OH first started using the brand name Zanol around 1907 when it was founded by Albert Mihalovitch, later known as Albert Mills.

Hai Karate Cologne & Aftershave c1967

Hai Karate was a budget cologne on sale in the United States and the United Kingdom during the 1960s through the 1980s. The fragrance was developed by the Leeming Pacquin division of Pfizer and launched in 1967 as their answer to the popular Jade East scent made by Swank.


Hai Karate encompassed products such as aftershave, cologne, talc, shaving cream, foaming cologne, body spray, shampoo, soap on a rope etc. for men.  The scent was described by Leeming as "Mistletoe in a bottle."


Three Flowers by Richard Hudnut c1915

Three Flowers was launched in 1915 by the American perfumer, Richard Hudnut.  Three Flowers was also known as Tres Flores in Spanish speaking countries.


Saturday, March 22, 2014

My Fair Lady by Ravel c1956

My Fair Lady by Ravel Perfume Corp. was launched around 1956. The name was derived from the Broadway musical My Fair Lady which debuted in 1956. The My Fair Lady name was filed for trademark in 1956 by Ravel.

Body On Tap Shampoo

 “Gives your hair good body.”  “Enriched with beer.“

Body On Tap was made by Bristol Meyers starting in 1978 and they had discontinued it after short 4 years not because of liability with it being associated with alcohol as many people believe, but simply because it didn’t sell that well.


Vintage Shampoo - Lemon Up

Do you remember that 1970’s shampoo called Lemon Up? I am just a tad too young to remember this product but many of my readers may. In my research I have found that Lemon Up was a line of beauty products based on a citrus theme and put out by Toni Products, included were the famous shampoo, crème rinse, facial cleanser, and an anti-blemish lotion.



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