Welcome!

Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Saturday, July 3, 2021

Barynia by Helena Rubinstein c1985

Barynia by Helena Rubinstein: launched in 1985. Barynia, is a Russian word meaning princess, and was the first fine fragrance launched under the Helena Rubinstein name. The fragrance was created by Norbert Bijaoui as a tribute to the company's creator Madame Helena Rubinstein, who died in 1965.




Barynia was originally available in the following products:
  • 0.17 oz Parfum Mini
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 0.50 oz Parfum
  • 0.17 oz Eau de Parfum Mini
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum
  • 6.8 oz Eau de Parfum
  • 3.3 oz Perfumed Body Oil
  • Savon Parfumee (Perfumed Soap)






Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic fruity floral fragrance for women with a chypre dry down.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Amalfi lemon, bergamot
  • Heart notes: carnation, hyacinth, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, orchid, rose, tuberose, violet
  • Base notes: vanilla, patchouli, oakmoss, benzoin, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, civet

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1990. At some time in the 1990s, the Barynia name and trademark, but not the formula, was purchased by G.D. Incorporated, who introduced their version of the fragrance and relaunched it. These reformulated boxes will be marked with the GD Incorporated name and not Helena Rubinstein.


Wednesday, June 30, 2021

Nuit Persane by Rosine c1911 and Nuit de Chine by Rosine c1912

Nuit Persane by Parfums Rosine is a distinguished fragrance first launched in 1911. Parfums Rosine, the brand behind Nuit Persane, was founded by Paul Poiret, a celebrated French fashion designer known for his avant-garde approach to fashion and perfume. Nuit Persane was part of Poiret's vision to create a complete sensory experience, combining his innovative fashion designs with equally captivating scents.




Saturday, June 26, 2021

DuPont Pyralin & Lucite Vanity Sets

DuPont aggressively advertised their new celluloid product which they called "Pyralin Toilet Ware" from 1917-1929.  Though celluloid was formally introduced at the 1862 World's Fair, and small companies had produced some celluloid items, it was DuPont who was one of the first companies to really push the celluloid dresser sets to the national public using widespread advertising campaigns especially in magazines.

The first celluloid dresser sets were of imitation ivory, at first these really did look like ivory, complete with the characteristic Schreger lines. Some of these items could be had with monograms engraved into the celluloid with flourishing scripts or affixed with luxurious sterling silver plaques. Eventually the items were adorned with elegant engraved decor around the borders which was piqued out in black or blue staining.






By the early 1920s, the Ivory Pyralin was seen as outdated and consumers wanted more modern styled vanity accessories. So to give the ladies a little more variety, DuPont introduced the "Amber Pyralin" line of solid amber colored translucent celluloid and the "Shell Pyralin" line of imitation tortoiseshell celluloid in 1923. These items could be had in duo tone "Ivory on Amber" and "Shell on Amber".







Advertisements encouraged women to "build up complete sets" starting off with just a few pieces such as a mirror and brush and then adding hair receivers, trays or manicure items.



Some of these 1920s ads were colorized and showed off the beauty of the dresser sets, which made them attractive options for feminine gifts. In 1925, DuPont purchased the Viscoloid Company and merged into a single subsidiary called the DuPont Viscoloid Company.

Between 1925-1927 the company began to introduce bright, new colors to the vanity lines: white pearl, rose pearl (pink), jade pearl (green), and maize pearl (yellow), instead of the boring old ivory. These pieces could be found with the marbleized tops and amber celluloid bottoms, known as "Pearl on Amber".

DuPont's direct competitor for these items was the "Arch Amerith" line of celluloid (cellulose nitrate/pyroxylin) products made by the Celanese Corp. of America. (Celluloid was actually a trade name used by Celanese Corp.)

Another competitor's marking to be found is "Art-Y-Zan" made by the Celluloid Corp., of New York. Across the pond, in England, the trade name "La Futuriste" was used for a modernistic line of celluloid toilet ware known as "Agalin" manufactured by NTS. The Futuriste line was directly inspired by the early designs by Gustav Jensen for DuPont's "Pyralin" line and Paul Frankl's "Amerith" line for Celluloid Corp. in 1929.












In 1928, the Viscoloid Company announced the invention of a "new material," Lucite. Advertised as an entirely new product, it was in fact a celluloid product, just like Pyralin was. In reality, this original Lucite (not to be confused with the acrylic plastic of a decade later also known as Plexiglas) was the same old celluloid enhanced by bright colors and “modernistic” styles .Vanity sets made from Viscoloid's Lucite came in translucent bright colors.  Other vanity sets had Pyralin parts and crystal clear, translucent, Lucite handles.




 DuPont conducted many surveys and did extensive market research into what the modern woman was looking for in a vanity set, including what colors she was most attracted to. Based on their market research, the company introduced several new vanity set designs: Ming, Wedgwood, Watteau, Empire, Diane, Sonya, Venetia, Navarre and Orchis.

The new opaque Lucite colors were a big leap from the plain old imitation ivory sets of yesteryear. With newly dubbed names such as Napoleonic blue, imperial green, colonial buff, and mandarin red, these exotic hues helped rein in potential customers.


In 1930, DuPont introduced their newest line based on period designs. New patterns were Monticello, Trianon, Lustris and Belle Fleur. Trianon is embellished in the manner of Louis XVI period, in colors Springtime Green or Peach Antoinette. The Monticello, in Lucite, came in Continental Blue, Buff and Gold, or Colonial Rose and Silver effects. The "Madelon" pattern was obtainable in Jade, Rose, Maize or White pearl-on-amber Pyralin.










 


In 1936, the market for the large vanity set had diminished with women's ever changing tastes, and a new Plastics Department had taken over the Pyralin and Lucite manufacturing, gradually phasing out the vanity sets to focus on other products. The name Lucite was revived with the new invention of an acrylic plastic which made an appearance about a decade later, also known as Plexiglas.

Some information paraphrased here was gleaned from the book "Producing Fashion: Commerce, Culture, and Consumers".





General Care Tips for All Early Plastics:

  • Store items separately to avoid scratching, rubbing or being nicked by other pieces.
  • Be careful handling early plastic vanity items, the material can crack or break when dropped onto a hard surface.
  • Avoid storing plastics of different materials together. Also do not store items in deteriorating or dirty condition. Clean them first. Be sure to find out what to use and not to use to clean your specific plastic.
  • MAAS Polishing Creme is a good polish also recommended for polishing and buffing out slight scratched on the surface of plastics. 
  • Do not use gritty or abrasives when cleaning plastics as they can scratch the surface.
  • Wash with mild soap or detergent, with plenty of lukewarm water, and dry with soft cloth or chamois.
  • Goo gone works wonders on plastics, especially to remove remnants of price stickers.
  • Grease, tar or oil can be removed with hexane or kerosene. Solvent residue should be removed by washing immediately.
  • Do not use window cleaning sprays such as Windex, or scouring compounds, acetone, gasoline, benzene, carbon tetrachloride or lacquer thinner to clean plastics.
  • Wax will help hide scratches that may appear. Buffing may help remove deep scratches.  


General Care Tips for Celluloid:

  • Do not put disintegrating celluloid items near other pieces of celluloid, it will cause others to start decomposing due to off gassing. Always store celluloid in a dry place. 
  • If you celluloid item is in very fine or excellent condition without cracks, peeling or holes, it can be gently cleaned.
  • Use a damp, soft, clean, cotton cloth to wipe off surface dust and dirt build up. Very little mild soap such as castile soap, can be applied to your soft cloth, at your own discretion, making sure your cloth is never dripping or too wet. 
  • If your piece of celluloid is decomposing, it may help to briefly soak it in washing soda (sodium carbonate) as recommended by the Kovels. Rinse well, and after it is completely dry, coat the item with clean nail polish, which is cellulose nitrate or cellulose acetate in solution. Inspect pieces for deterioration occasionally, and if it is deteriorating either discard it or store it separately. The chemical degradation of acetate over time, often identified by a characteristic vinegar odor given off as acetic acid. Decomposing celluloid starts as crystallization.
  • Remember, celluloid is flammable and must be stored in a well ventilated area where the temperature is never over 120 degrees Fahrenheit. 
  • Outgassing of the acetic acid increases in a hot, enclosed area and less when it is cooler and well ventilated.
  • Use MAAS with a soft cloth and gently wipe clean celluloid surfaces. I was also recommended to try Meguire’s PlastRx polish. Keep in mind that celluloid can crack if you press too hard. Never submerge celluloid in water if there is metal appliques, trim or steel parts on the item, it will rust and ruin the celluloid. Also outgassed acetic acid can rust the steel parts of manicure sets.
  • Do not use ammonia to clean celluloid as it will discolor.


General Tips for Bakelite & Catalin:

  • Use a clean cloth to wipe away any loose dirt or debris.
  • Simichrome polish has been recommended for polishing Bakelite. Gently rub with a soft cloth and do not overdo it.
  • Avoid sunlight or heat for Bakelite and catalin plastics. Store items in a cool, dry and dust free environment if possible.
  • Bakelite should never ever go in a dishwasher, even if you skip the heat drying cycle. Dishwashers are simply too harsh for Bakelite and other vintage treasures and I can guarantee that the dishwasher will dry out the Bakelite and cause it to change color and crack.


General Tips for Acrylics (including later Lucite & Plexiglas):

  • Brilliantize is the product recommended by Plexiglas dealers and experts for cleaning and shining Plexiglas and acrylics. Do not use Windex or other glass cleaners on Plexiglas.
  • Wax will help hide scratches that may appear. Buffing may help remove deep scratches. Anti-static polishes are available for acrylics.
  • Do not use gritty or abrasives when cleaning plastics, especially Lucite or Plexiglas as they can scratch the surface.
  • Decomposing acrylic starts as a whitish, bloomed haze on the surface, and then crystallization.

Saturday, June 19, 2021

Chasuble by Jacques Fath c1945

Chasuble by Jacques Fath: launched in 1945.

The chasuble is the outermost liturgical vestment worn by clergy for the celebration of the Eucharist in Western-tradition Christian Churches that use full vestments, primarily in the Roman Catholic, Anglican and Lutheran churches, as well as in some parts of the United Methodist Church. In the Eastern Churches of Byzantine Rite, the equivalent vestment is the phelonion.

Sunday, June 13, 2021

L'Heure Attendue by Jean Patou c1946

L'Heure Attendue by Jean Patou: launched in 1946. Created by Henri Almeras as an homage to end of the Nazi occupation of Paris during World War II. Patou registered the perfume's name as early as 1940 in anticipation for the war to end. It was recommended to be worn by brunettes.


Wednesday, June 9, 2021

Deja le Printemps by Oriza Legrand c1922

The perfume "Deja le Printemps" by Oriza L. Legrand, launched in 1922, carries a name that resonates deeply with the essence of springtime in Paris during that era.

During the 1920s in Paris, there was a cultural renaissance known as the "Années folles" or "Roaring Twenties," characterized by artistic innovation, social liberation, and a flourishing of literature, music, and fashion. This period saw a shift towards more daring and modern expressions in art and fashion, paralleled by the emergence of new fragrances that captured the spirit of the time.

The name of the perfume evokes a sense of anticipation and joy associated with the arrival of spring. It suggests that wearing this fragrance transports one to a state where spring is not just a season but a state of being—refreshing, invigorating, and full of promise. The scent likely combines floral notes that were popular during that era, possibly incorporating elements like jasmine, rose, or iris, which were beloved by perfumers of the time.


Furthermore, the choice of "Deja le Printemps" as a name for a perfume launched in 1922 also aligns with the broader cultural context of the interwar period in Paris. It reflects a longing for beauty, optimism, and a celebration of life after the turmoil of World War I. The perfume's name encapsulates the sentiment that despite challenges, the spirit of spring—of renewal and hope—can always be embraced and cherished.

In summary, "Deja le Printemps" as a perfume name launched in 1922 in Paris not only captures the olfactory essence of springtime but also resonates with the cultural milieu of the time, symbolizing a return to joy, beauty, and a newfound sense of freedom and creativity.

Monday, May 31, 2021

Fendi by Fendi c1985

Fendi by Fendi: launched in 1985 in association with Florbath Profumi di Parma. In USA in 1987.





Friday, May 21, 2021

Quartz by Molyneux c1977

Quartz by Molyneux: launched in 1977, in USA by 1978. In association with Sanofi. Created by Jean-Pierre Subrenat.


Thursday, May 6, 2021

Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin c1934

Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin, launched in 1934, emerged during a period marked by a blend of pre-war optimism and the lingering shadows of the Great Depression. The early 1930s were a time when the world was grappling with economic instability, but Paris remained a beacon of cultural and artistic vibrancy. This period saw the rise of glamorous nightlife, with the city’s fashion and fragrance industries flourishing amid the economic challenges. Parisian society was captivated by the allure of luxury, which was a stark contrast to the widespread austerity. Lubin's choice of "Nuit de Longchamp" for the perfume reflects the enchanting and sophisticated atmosphere of the Parisian night.

The French phrase "Nuit de Longchamp" translates to "Night of Longchamp" in English. This name is a nod to the Longchamp area in Paris, known for its elegant and high-society associations. The name evokes the image of a night filled with luxury and exclusivity, perhaps linked to the grandeur of the Longchamp racetrack, which was a popular destination for the Parisian elite. By naming the perfume "Nuit de Longchamp," Lubin effectively connected the fragrance to a sense of high-class sophistication and nighttime allure, suggesting an evening of opulence and charm.




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