Antique Venetian Foiled and Aventurine Glass Scent Bottles

In this guide I will introduce you to the world of Venetian foiled and aventurine glass scent bottles. These spangled works of art were produced in Venice and were mainly manufactured for the tourist market during the mid 19th century.

GH Morison

GH Morison of England, was a wholesale perfumer and manufacturer of perfumed novelties.

Chemist & Druggist, 1908:

"A NOVELTY under the name of "Perfume Plums" is introduced this week. Perfume plums are hermetically sealed bulbs filled with agreeable perfumes, and the different colours and shape suggest the name -- carnation perfume is pink, ess bouquet brown, lilac is purple, Parma violet dark green, wallflower yellow, white rose light green, and so on. They are manufactured under a patent by Mr GH Morison, 34 Guilford Street, London, WC, and retail at 2d each. The perfumes in the bulbs are supplied by Messrs. TF Bristow & Co., Ltd, London." 

Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, 1909:

"GH MORISON & CO., LTD. (PC) Capital 1,000l in 1l shares. Objects: To acquire from GH Morison certain inventions for scent receptacles and his business at Westinghouse Buildings, Norfolk Street, Strand, WC, for perfumes, aromatic essences, liquid disinfectants, etc. The first directors are GH Morison and RJ Koechlin."

Pharmaceutical Journal; 1909:

"Morrison and Co., Limited. Registered on June 26 by Iliffe, Henley, and Sweet, 2, Bedford Row, WC.Capital £1,000, in £1 shares. Objects: To acquire from GH Morison the benefit of certain existing inventions relating to receptacles for scent and other liquids, together with the business carried on by him at Westinghouse Buildings, Norfolk Street, Strand, WC., and to carry on the business of manufacturers of hermetically sealed receptacles for perfumes, aromatic essences, liquid disinfectants, etc. Private company. The first directors (to number not less less than two nor more than seven) are GH Morison, chairman and RJ Koechlin." 

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 1, 1910:

"317,819 All goods included in Class 48 GH Morison. FRAGNOLIA & C o Ltd Westinghouse Bldgs, Norfolk St, Strand, London, WC. Manufacturers 2nd November 1909." 

The Pharmaceutical Journal and Pharmacist - Volume 86, 1911:

"BANKRUPTCY INTELLIGENCE: The Affairs of GH Morison and Co., Limited, 5 Torrens Street, EO, manufacturers of Perfume and Toilet Requisites. The creditors and contributors met on April 10 under the compulsory winding-up order made against this company at the Carey Street offices of the Board of Trade. The company was formed in June, 1909, with a capital of £1,000 to acquire the business of manufacturers of perfumes and receptacles for the same belonging to Mr Morison and to carry on a general perfumery business. The business had been carried on for nine months at Betterton Street, Drury Lane. The purchase consideration was £350. The sole capital of the company was derived from the issue of 301 shares for cash, apart from which the company was financed throughout by Mr Koecklin, who held no security and had since assigned the greater part of the debt for the benefit of the creditors. Up to the end of 1909 the company chiefly manufactured receptacles for perfumes, which it purchased from other firms, and upon which a loss was made of £502 to December, 1909. A branch in Paris was partly responsible for that loss. Early in 1910 the company started manufacturing its own perfume, and in the end à laboratory was set up and an analytical chemist appointed for the purpose of producing high class perfumes, face creams, and toilet powders, etc. As the result of the non delivery of a quantity of the necessary goods the sales to January last only amounted to £512 Notwithstanding the slack period the company's establishment was carried on on an expensive scale. A further loss was to January 1 of £2,293. In September, Mr Morison resigned his directorship, his share holding being purchased for face value, viz. £251. In order to find security for the purchase Mr Koecklin assigned the amount due to him by the company of £3,642 to Mr Morison. The accounts filed showed liabilities £5,222 and assets £727. The deficiency to the shareholders is returned. An offer of £240 had been made by tender for the assets, which had been sold by auction for £300, and after payment of expenses the creditors would receive a small dividend, The winding-up was left with the Board of Trade." 

The Law Times Reports of Cases Decided in the House of, 1912:

"March 26 and 27 [1912]. (Before NEVILLE J) Re GH MORISON AND CO LIMITED (a) Company - Preferential payment - Analytical chemist - 'Clerk or servant'  - Companies (Consolidation) Act 1908 (8 Edw. 7 c, 69 8 209) B. was a chemist and in July 1910 was engaged by M. and Co. for nine months at a weekly wage to produce a specified series of formulæ for the manufacture of soaps and perfumes. The contract was to be considered as completed the moment B had produced all the formulæ, and if completed before the end of nine months. B. was still to be paid all his wages for the remainder of the nine months. B. had to attend on only three specified days of each week, but for regular hours. The remainder of the week being at his disposal, and he had in fact another regular engagement with another firm. And there were other special terms in the contract. B.'s wages fell into arrear, and in March 1911, a winding-up order was made against M and Co., and at that date there was due to B. 93l for arrears of wages. B. claimed 50l from the liquidator as a preferential creditor under sect. 209 (1) of the Companies (Consolidation) Act 1908. Held, that under the terms of this contract B. was a clerk or servant within sect. 209 (1) of the Act and was a preferential creditor for 50l.  

ADJOURNED SUMMONS. This was a summons taken out by Edgard Barthelemy Barboni asking that he be paid the sum of 50l. as a preferential creditor under sect. 209 of the Companies (Consolidation) Act 1908, and that the respondent, the official receiver, as liquidator of the above named company is liable to pay the sum in priority to other debts of the company. The company carried on a business of general perfume manufacturers. The applicant, E.B. Barboni, was an analytical chemist and was first employed by the company under an agreement dated March 1910, but that agreement terminated in July 1910. On the 12th July 1910, he was re-engaged by the company on the terms contained in the following letter:

12th July 1910 - Mr. E.B. Barboni, Carshalton, Surrey. Dear Sir, - It gives us great pleasure to inform you that the results of your experiments on our behalf during the past three months have been appreciably received by our shareholders, and we hereby accept your verbal offer of reappointment for a further period of nine months (or thirty nine weeks) to terminate on the 15th April 1911, subject to the following conditions, which we beg you to confirm: (1) You are to give us the benefit of your services for two full days in each week throughout this period, to commence work at 10:30 am and to finish at 6:30 pm, and the time is to be applied to the production of an entire series of those products usually vended by perfumers - a complete list of which is attached hereto. (2) The contract is to be considered as completed the moment you have produced and placed at our disposal formulas for the whole of these products to our entire satisfaction, and suitable for our class of trade, as well as having given as all the necessary practical instructions in the manufacture of the products and use of the formulas. (3) If the contract is completed before the 15th April 1911 we undertake to pay you the full and exact amount which you would have earned had you worked under a weekly wage of 4l. per week until the above specified date (4) If the contract is not completed before the date specified you must undertake to complete it without additional remuneration, in not more than three calendar months after the 15th April 1911. (5) We allow you to use your own discretion as to the order in which the articles specified in the attached list are produced, but we should consider it wisest for you to give your attention, firstly, to those products which give the least trouble to produce and leave the more difficult ones till later. (6) A diary must be kept for the inspection of our shareholders, showing each week the progress which has been made towards the completion of the contract. (7) In the event of our requiring before the completion of this contract any special product - not usually difficult to produce - this special product is to count as though it were on of the things on the attached list, and one of equal difficulty is to be struck off in its place. (8) Your remuneration for this work is to be 4l per week - payable by cheque each Saturday morning, the aggregate sum due thus amounting to 41 (four pounds) per week for thirty nine weeks, 1561 (one hundred and fifty six pounds) in all. (9) We shall expect to have at all times evidence that you shall expect to have at all times evidence that you can complete the contract, and we reserve the right to dispense with your services on one month's notice if it can be clearly shown that your part of the contract cannot be carried out. (10) The formulas supplied to us in carrying out this contract are to remain our exclusive property, and you must agree to keep perfect secrecy respecting them, or regarding any other information which may be of a nature private to our firm. (11) Finally, if the contract be carried out entirely to our satisfaction, we are to have first option of re-engaging you upon similar lines for a further period of one year. We shall be glad of your early acceptance of the above if you agree to same as we are desirous that you should enter upon your duties without further delay. - Yours faithfully, GH MORISON AND CO LIMITED. 

In September it was verbally agreed between one of the directors of the company and the applicant that the latter should attend on three specified days in each week - viz. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 10:30 in the morning till 6.30 in the evening - and his salary was increased to 61 per week. And it was understood that the company engaged the applicant as their chemist for all purposes which might arise. In the remainder of his time he was at liberty to employ himself as he wished, and he had a regular engagement with another form for half a day per week. His wages from the company fell into arrear, and on the 21st March 1911 a winding-up order was made against the company, and at that date there was due to the applicant the sum of 931. for arrears of wages. On the 15th Jan 1912, he took out this summons as a preferential creditor for 50.

JUDGMENT: Held that he was a clerk or servant within the entitled to 50l. "

 

Nandita by Babani 1925

Nandita by Babani: launched in 1925.

Parfum du Elizabeth II

 On her dressing table, in her bathroom at the Palais de l'Elysee, during her visit to Paris, Queen Elizabeth II of England found this magnificent bottle offered by French perfumers. It contained a jasmine eau de toilette, specially composed for this occasion of particularly selected essences, and absolutely unique, because the formula is jealously guarded by the Perfumery Syndicate, in case the Sovereign wishes to be replenished. The bottle, 40cm high, weighs 10 kilos and was cut from pure crystal. It bears the inscription: "Homage of French Perfumers to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II", and rested in a sumptuous case covered with blue leather, bearing in gold letters the monogram of the Sovereign "EHR". The Eau de Toilette offered to the Queen is thus a quality gift. It will remain the most refined expression of an art in which French perfumers remain masters.

TIME Magazine, 1953:

"And for the visiting Queen's own very private use , there will be a single crystal flagon of perfume concocted with the help of the most sensitive nostrils in France as an " homage from the French Perfumers to Her Majesty Elizabeth II ."

Paris by Yves Saint Laurent 1983

Paris by Yves Saint Laurent: launched in 1983. Created by Sophia Grojsman.

Belle de Jovan by Jovan c1976

 

Belle de Jovan by Jovan: launched in 1976.

 

Mea Culpa by de Vernon c1962

Freddy, a gift shop located at 10 rue Auber in Paris, sold handbags, scarves, gloves, umbrellas, jewelry, novelties, all sorts of vanity goods including cut crystal Marcel Franck atomizers and Limoges porcelain perfume bottles, small purse size hand mirrors and smoking accessories, etc.

Gio by Giorgio Armani c1992

Gio by Giorgio Armani: launched in 1992. Composed by the perfumers at Givaudan Roure. In USA in 1993.

Gio, pronounced "Joe", is short for Giorgio (Armani's nickname) and is pronounced "Joe." which was to replace Armani's original self-titled Armani fragrance from 1982. Giorgio Armani stated that "it is the perfume expression of the principles that govern my life." Created by Françoise Caron.

WE NEED PERFUME CONTAINERS

"WE NEED PERFUME CONTAINERS» Poster illustrated the National Union of French perfume. Signed by René Letourneur (sculptor). Impression: Curial-Archereau. Covered by the ORAFF. 32 cm x 49 cm Period 1941-1944

"We need perfumery containers to continue to provide you - bring us all your bottles, tubes and useless pots. National Union of French perfumery."

Decadence by Decadence c1985

Decadence by Decadence: launched in the fall 1985 by Parfums International (the prestige fragrance group of the Prince Matchabelli division of Chesebrough-Pond's Inc.)

Yendi by Capucci c1972

Yendi by Capucci: launched in 1972. Created by perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure-Bertrand (now Roure).

Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1896

Foin Coupe by Guerlain: created in 1896, also sold as "New Mown Hay".

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka c1997

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka: launched in 1997. Created by Annick Ménardo.

Societe Francaise Des Produits De Beaute

Societe Francaise Des Produits De Beaute of Paris, France:

Guirlandes by Carven c1982

Guirlandes by Carven: launched in 1982. It was created for the young woman by Jean Guichard of Robertet.

Diamant Bleu by Gloria Vanderbilt c1946

The Gloria Vanderbilt Salon opened in 1946 at 15 East 60th Street, New York City on the first floor of the Chalom Art Gallery. The marble fronted salon was meant to be a dream showroom for the wholesale trade of the Gloria Vanderbilt Corporation's cosmetics, skincare and perfume line, in addition to some antiques and jewelry.

Maud Frizon by Maud Frizon c1985

Maud Frizon by Maud Frizon: launched in 1985. This was the first fragrance by shoe designer, known for her amusing creations. 

Hallo Coco! by Jovoy c1924

Hallo Coco! by Jovoy: launched in 1924. The scent was available in both perfume and face powder.

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain c1890

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain: launched in 1890. Created by Jacques Guerlain. The name means "The Good Old Times" and recalls the scents of the old potpourri jars (sweet jars) found in homes and the heavy musk worn by so many in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Bic Fragrances

Societe Bic, a company who makes low cost, but good quality disposable razors, lighters and pens brought out a fragrance collection in 1988 under the brand Parfums Bic.

The scents were developed by Firmenich in France and the collection originally included four fragrances: Jour, Nuit, Homme, and Sport.

Tweed by Lentheric c1933

Tweed by Lentheric: launched in France in 1933. It was not introduced in America until 1935.

Tweed was released under the name Risque Tout when exported to Europe, Central and South America.

Prince George of Russia

The Prince George of Russia perfumery brand was founded by Martin de Markoff (aka Martin de Botelho). The full name of the brand was "The Perfumes of His Highness Prince George Kostantinovich Romanov of Russia, Inc. of New York, New York. This was established for the former Russian prince, George Constantine.

The company was associated with Markoff's other brands Ballarde Inc and Alexandra de Markoff.

In business until 1946.

Recital by F. Millot c1931

Recital by F. Millot: launched in 1931. Created by Jean Desprez.

Half Doll Boudoir Novelties Catalog Page

Here is a wonderful page from a 1926 catalog showing interesting half doll novelties in a variety of types. These feature the "Colonial Dame" brand or style composition heads. Most of these that we have seen were made in France. The half dolls were mounted on strong wire frames, have wavy wigs in colors of white, blonde, auburn and black. They are dressed in high quality materials and fabrics made up of rayon and silk taffeta with ornamental passementerie trimmings, some metallic. The fabric colors were chosen to work best in the boudoir in shades of "old rose", "copen" which is a soft blue, "orchid" and "tan". I suspect the entire ensemble was made and imported from France.

Parfumerie Brissac

Parfumerie Brissac was a French company established in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1917 by L. Aubert y Cía.  (L. Aubert y Compania, Jorge Newbery St. Buenos Aires). They were associated with Les Parfums Persans. Brissac was still in business in 1924.

Un jour le parfum, il etait une nuit by Sephora c1996

Un jour le parfum, il était une fois la nuit by Sephora: launched in 1996. Perfume created for the opening of Sephora on the Champs Elysées, the largest perfumery in the world on December 11, 1996 at midnight.

Madame de Carven c1979

Madame de Carven by Carven: launched in 1979.

Les Parfums Nelombo

Nelombo was established in 1931 by Les Laboratoires Dausse, Societe Anonyme, Paris, France . The name Nelombo is the common name of the Netumbium speciosum, a large pink water lily or lotus.

Shanghai by Lentheric c1936

Shanghai by Lentheric: launched in 1936. Originally named Cœur de Paris and launched in 1911. Cœur de Paris was renamed Shanghai in 1936 and was repackaged in a beautiful Chinese styled vase.

Pia by Dimitri c1977

Pia by Dimitri Ltd.: launched in 1977. The company Dimitri of Italy was created by Piero Dimitri.

Maria Pia was was an employee in the Dimitri firm in Italy before her marriage Piero, the famous Dimitri of Italy the first mens wear designer in the Coty Hall of Fame. Maria put her family responsibilities first, but remained involved in Dimitri's career. As the children grew up, Maria moved into the Dimitri fashion and design picture.

Eau de Rochas by Rochas c1970

Eau de Rochas by Rochas: launched in 1970. Nicolas Mamounas.

Asphodele by Lentheric c1926

Asphodele by Lentheric: launched in 1926, pronounced "As Fo Del". Asphodele refers to the species of daffodil (narcissus) that grow around the Mediterranean and a species growing on both the coasts of Brittany and Galicia. In the ancient times, the daffodils were often used to bloom the grave of the dead, where the legend of Asphodel Meadow , instead of Hades in Greek mythology . I have read that the actual asphodele plant has no scent.

Vent Vert by Balmain c1947

Vent Vert by Balmain: launched in 1947. Created by Germaine Cellier of Roure perfumers.

Les Parfums Dorilly

Les Parfums Dorilly was established in 1920 by M. Pommez at 4 rue de la Paix, Paris. Dorilly made luxury presentations in the 1920s. Later established the successful Parfums Marquay in 1947.

What is Parfum de Toilette?

I get numerous questions about fragrance concentrations from my readers. People seem to be confused about terms such as "Parfum de Toilettes", to answer your queries, here is my easy guide to tell you what they really are.

Let's break it down from the top with Parfum.
Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. A parfum may contain up to 20-30 percent oils and high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water. Vintage Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfums can be composed up of natural and synthetic ingredients, no matter if they are vintage or modern. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume. Any mixture lower in oils is known as an eau.

Next in concentration is the Eau de Parfum.

Eau de Parfum, also known as Esprit de Parfum, Secret de Parfum, Millesime, or Parfum de Toilette, is composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. Vintage Eau de Parfum, Esprit de Parfum, or Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils and were highly concentrated. Eau de Parfums usually last about 4-8 hours. 

Parfum de Toilette first started being used around 1960 by Coty, followed by Revillon, Caron, Nina Ricci Rochas, Salvador Dali, Le Galion, Jean Desprez, Weil, Houbigant, Worth, Craven, Dolce & Gabbana and other brands. The timeframe for Parfum de Toilette usage was 1960-2000. The last time I saw "Parfum de Toilette" advertised in a newspaper was 1989. 

Christian Dior had both "Esprit de Parfum" for the Poison line, Dune, Miss Dior, Dioressence, Diorissimo and "Secret de Parfum", mostly for Opium. Oscar de la Renta had an Esprit de Parfum for his signature fragrance Oscar. 

Orlane had a Secret de Parfum for their scent Fleurs d'Orlane, as did Guerlain as a limited edition for Shalimar. 

Creed uses Millesime. According to Creed, the house hand-selects the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each “Millesime”, or Creed fragrance. Millesime indicates that The House of Creed has hand-selected the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each Creed fragrance. Creed Millesime fragrances are blends that consist of the highest-quality concentration of infused essential oils made from raw materials. Millesime can also refer to their fragrances being hand-crafted by our Master Perfumer, Olivier Creed.. 

Today most brands use the term Eau de Parfum, most of the other terms were used in vintage fragrances. Creed still uses the term Millesime.

.

Eau de Toilette: also called toilet water, is a much thinner dilution of the same materials, containing approximately only 4-10 percent of essential oils, in an even weaker alcohol and water mixture. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. Meant to be splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.


Lesser concentrations:


Eau de Cologne: for men or women, or aftershave, is further diluted, about 3-5 percent of essential oils, in an even still weaker alcohol and water mix. Usually lasts about 2 hours. Meant to be liberally splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates. Used for toning and refreshing the skin after bathing.


Eau Fraiche: this is the weakest form of fragrance on the market, a light toilet water similar to cologne or splash usually with 1-3 percent of essential oil in water and a higher grade of alcohol. Usually lasts for less than an hour. Meant to be liberally reapplied throughout the day for a refreshing feeling. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Voile de Parfum: also known as Eau Parfumée, Voile d'Été, Eau Sans Alcool, Brume de Parfum, Perfume Mist, is a non-alcoholic fragrance diluted with water and about 3-8 percent essential oils. Typically used to be worn during the warmer months at the beach or in warmer climates.

Miracle by Lentheric c1924

Miracle by Lentheric was launched in 1924 and named after the Max Reinhardt play starring actress Diana Manners.

 Lentheric issued it's perfume alongside the U.S. premiere of the elaborate pantomime 'The Miracle', which opened at the Century Theatre in New York City on January 15, 1924. The back of the program had a full page advertisement for the perfume. The program was by Karl Vollmoeller, the score by Englebert Humperdinck, and the design by Norman Bel Geddes. Among the many illustrations, are two full-page ink and watercolor renderings of costumes by Norman Bel Geddes.

Les Parfums de Colmy

Established by Edouard Colmant at 348 rue Saint-Honoré, Paris; also owned Parfumerie E. Coudray.

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay c1960

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay: launched in 1960.

History of Perfumery in the 17th Century

In the 16th and 17th centuries, bathing was to a large extent abandoned in favor of the liberal use of toilet waters, scented powders and luxurious fragrances.

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan c1992

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan: launched in September 1992. Created by Jean-Claude Delville and Pierre Wargnye.

Spurred by her husband Stephan Weiss' desire to leave a lasting legacy beyond her fashion house, Donna Karan entered the world of fragrance. Taking a cue from Coco Chanel, whose iconic fashion empire was revived by her perfume ventures, Karan's husband persuaded her with the eventual fact that "hemlines go up and down, but fragrance is forever".