White Satin by Angelique c1949

White Satin by Angelique came out in 1949.

Gardenia by Chanel c1925

"Sweet and voluptuous, an intense fragrance of absolute femininity. Created by CHANEL Master Perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1925, GARDÉNIA is an olfactive ode to the camellia, Mademoiselle Chanel's favorite flower. A vanilla base rises to meet a heart of sweet fruit and creamy gardenia petals, accented with coconut. Sending the scent aloft: the crisp greens of the flower's morning leaves." - By Chanel


I definitely smell the gardenia accord in this fragrance, it sticks out like a sore thumb and mixes with violets and aldehydes to create an ethereal gardenia/tuberose note rival to Rober Piguet's Fracas. The vanilla drydown is a pleasant surprise as the gardenia and the vanilla go very well together. A very green mossy vetiver note mixed with narcissus is present as is a civet like note that I detect. I am using a 1950's perfume nip for this review and I don't know how it compares to today's Gardenia by Chanel.


Gardenia is gorgeous floral bouquet and an admirable example of the talent of the great perfume creator, Ernest Beaux. . Gardenia was relaunched in the 1980's together with other exclusive perfumes - Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie. The reconstructed version is very similar to the original (vintage). At the time of Ernest Beaux synthetic materials technology was still undeveloped, and due to synthetic notes the new version of Gardenia is more modern and not at all that heavy and strong as expected from white flowers. The elegance of Gardenia is timeless.


The natural fragrance of gardenia can not be distilled, and in this composition it is substituted by fragrances of orange blossom, and jasmine, succored by sweet tuberose note. In the base of the composition, beside musk, there are woody notes of patchouli, vetiver and sandal. Today, Gardenia comes as eau de parfum and eau de toilette.

The official notes of the modern perfume are: jasmine, gardenia, orange blossom, tuberose, clove, sage, pimento, musk, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver.

Eau de Gardenia, cube bottle of eau de toilette, very rare, circa 1937, photo by Perfume Bottles Auction

American Druggist, 1937:

"CHANEL Eau De Toilette (Cube Bottle) Gardenia, Ambre, Chypre, Rose, and Magnolia."

Consumer Reports, 1941:

"Chanel Gardenia Perfume. $2.50 for 1/2 fl. oz.; $11 for .9 fl. oz. Good, though less sweet, and weaker than others."

The New Yorker, 1943:

"FRAGRANT ENCHANTMENT That you may walk in beauty . . . creating an aura of loveliness bean - stirring as spring moonlight . . , these exquisite Chanel accessories to charm . Chanel Face Powder, perfumed with No. 5 or Gardenia."

Maritza No.9 by Countess Maritza c1950

Maritza No 9 by Countess Maritza was launched in the early 1950s, however,  not much information is to be found on this perfume. It was available as eau de parfum, perfume spray, purse spray and spray mist. It was also available in a foursome gift set along with Sonata, Silent Night and White Mist.

Sortilege by Le Galion c1937

Sortilege by Le Galion: launched in 1937 by perfumer and Le Galion owner, Paul Vacher. The name means "spell" in French. It was suggested to be worn for blondes and brunettes, and described it as sumptuous, warm, luxurious, and suitable for evening wear.

The fragrance was available in parfum, parfum de toilette, eau de toilette, bath oil and bath powder.


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1937:

"Parfums Le Galion are being announced for the first time in America. Sortilege Le Galion is a delightful fragrance which captures the dash and sophistication of Paris. Gardenia Le Galion, and Jasmin Le Galion are living and luxurious odors of these flowers. Sole distributor for the United States: John J. Tracey."

Motion Picture, 1947:

"Well known (and manufactured) in France, Le Galion Perfumes now available here: Sortilege, Brumes, Bourrasque, Gardenia and Tubereuse."

Vogue, 1965:

"Sortilege by Le Galion, in its straight perfume form and in its lighter-veined "Parfum de Toilette" to fortify the fragrant life, to go on with more splashy abandon."

 

Fodor's Guide to Europe, 1970:

"Le Galion, "Sortilege" (for blondes and brunettes, sumptuous, warm, luxurious, for evening wear) — "Snob" (refined, rare, aristocratic) — "Brumes" (for blondes, flowery, sweet) — "Bourrasque" (young, for sportswear) —  "Jasmin" (the richest and most precious) — "Eau Le Galion'' (for men)."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Sortilège is classified as a floral aldehydic fragrance for women. It's magical blend was composed of over 80 ingredients, a sophisticated blend of florals. Among them jasmine, white hyacinth, wild lily, rose de France and orchid.

Powdery aldehydic top, floral with a rose-jasmine heart, and a sweetened balsamic, woodsy chypre base. Similar to vintage Chanel No.5 and L'Aimant by Coty.

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, white hyacinth, neroli, strawberry, peach
• Middle notes: orchid, Bulgarian rose, rose de France, jasmine, ylang ylang, wild lily of the valley, Florentine iris, lilac, violet
• Base notes: palisander wood, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla, tonka bean, civet, musk, oakmoss, opoponax, ambergris

L'Amour de l'art 1950:

"Sortilege by Le Galion: Its scent was inspired by the enchanting legends of French Auvergne, still full of soothsayers, fairies and old beliefs. Besides, isn't this perfume a kind of magic wand since its scents captivate like an indefinable charm. This philter of great luxury for brunettes and for blondes is an evening adornment which brings together in a single bouquet, half-classic, half-modern, the warm smell of Oriental roses, the green perfume of wild lily of the valley and the heavy scent of tropical woods."

Combat, 1953:

"Jasmine from the first hours of the harvest, distilled early picked, French rose, wild lily of the valley, more "cyclamen" than the one we cultivate, white hyacinth, amber and musk. When the Place Vendome looks like a Rembrandt background on which faded twilight roses are raining, the jewels take on an exasperated sparkle in the shop windows and the cars seem body worked for queens. A kind of magical power exalts the nerve center of elegance. This is how the best named perfume works."

Combat, 1954:

"Lotion Sortilège by Le Galion: one of the latest great finds in French perfumery is this aldehyde, which gives poignant resonance to the classic duo of the slightly austere scent of rose and the exalted, frantic scent of jasmine. Starry. Are there still roses and roses. Brave grassoise, a bit rustic, or captive sultana of the Balkan gardens? In Grasse, picked at dawn and as soon as distilled, jasmine on the contrary, is prince. The spell, here, is due to the sultana and the prince. As escort: wild lily of the valley, white hyacinth, ambergris. Extended with an old alcohol tinged with neroli, so as not to be too sweet in the velvet atmosphere, this colloquium of aristocrats idealizes with its magical elegance the gallant parties of summer nights."

L'Art et La Mode, 1959:

"Very feminine, very elegant, "Sortilège" by Le Galion is the last and faithful love of Paris. This definition suits it perfectly. It brings together and combines, in its delicate aroma, the warm smell of Oriental roses, the green smell of lily of the valley..."

Harper's Bazaar, 1965;

"Jasmine blossoms, the full concentration of fragrance is said to occur in the first three days of blooming. These are the flowers Parfums Le Galion blends with white hyacinths, wild lilies and other esoteric elements to make Sortilege perfume. Magnetic and full of sorcery. Sortilege magnifies the artifices of the woman who is a born witch."

The fragrance was discontinued in the late 1980s. In 1985, IGFD named U.S. distributor International Cosmetic & Fragrance Distributors (ICFD) acquired distribution rights for Paris-based Parfums Le Galion fragrances which includes Sortilege for Women, touted as the "fragrance of the Stork Club" and "Special for Gentlemen". Both scents were in limited distribution since 1956. However, the company planned heavy promotion and marketing to reintroduce the fragrances.

Cue, 1954:

"And the bouquet from the real brandy-inhaler comes not from Courvoisier but from the dram flacon of the Stork Club's Sortilege perfume and the fluted 2-ounce bottle of Essence of Sortilege which nestle inside. $7.50."

Woman's guide to Europe, 1954;

" Le Galion, 50 Roulevard Victor-Hugo, Neuilly. "Sortilege"— popular at the Stork; "Le Jasmin" and "La Rose"— flowery, for a balmy evening; "Snob"— warm and heavy."

CLICK HERE TO FIND THE VINTAGE VERSIONS OF SORTILEGE BY LE GALION

First Reformulation and Relaunch:

In 1999, Long Lost Perfumes, owned by Irma Shorell, purchased the trademark name of Sortilege and created their own version of the fragrance, which was available only in an eau de toilette concentration.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with bright top notes and powdery florals.

• Top notes: bergamot, peach, aldehydes, orange blossom
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, violet, lilac, and orris root
• Base notes: musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka, vanilla, opoponax, styrax and amber

Second Reformulation and Relaunch:

Inspired by the beloved original scent, perfumer Thomas Fontaine reformulated the composition with modern ingredients. Today's version of Sortilege had to conform with the regulations of IFRA, so oakmoss was excluded and many of the raw materials that were originally used are no longer available. Sortilege was relaunched in 2014, following the successful resurrection of the house of Le Galion with Nicolas Chabot in collaboration with Paul Vacher's granddaughter Dominique Vacher.

You may visit their website at http://www.legalionparfums.com

From Parfums Le Galion:

"The iconic fragrance of the House Le Galion and signature perfume of the famous Stork Jazz Club in New York in the 1930s, Sortilège returns today in a composition faithful to its origins. A floral aldehyde composition, a totally seductive fragrance full of history. 

Sortilège, displays an intense and mesmerising vapour trail of floral aldehyde, beginning with a soft blend of white flowers and ylang-ylang from Madagascar. The explosion of its floral bouquet reveals Egyptian jasmine and delicate notes of mimosa, sustained by narcissus. Turkish rose is the beating heart, partnered with iris and leading into Indonesian sandalwood and vetiver on a background of animal and amber - an intense, mythical fragrance. 

Sortilège has a balanced bouquet of perfect elegance: feminine, refined and distinguished - the scent of a mysterious and confident woman. Intense, elegant and sensual, it exhibits the perfect alchemy between perfume and skin."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehydic fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lily of the valley, lilac and ylang ylang
• Middle notes: Turkish rose, Egyptian jasmine, mimosa, narcissus, iris and mimosa
• Base notes: vetiver, Indonesian sandalwood, musk, labdanum and amber

Today you can purchase this from Jovoy in France and some other select perfumeries in Europe like First In Fragrance. The fragrance is available as 100ml, 50ml, and 10ml, Eau de Parfum. Purchase directly from Le Galion's website.

Review and Inspirational Passage:

Today I received a box of samples directly from Le Galion for the purposes of reviewing. I opened up the box and found a beautiful booklet illustrating the various fragrances and giving the histories of the brand as well as the perfumes themselves. Underneath the booklet was a set of nine mini bottles arranged inside a nest of crinkly black paper. I was elated! This was akin to the feeling I get when I open a Christmas gift. This was a wonderful presentation, and the perfumes themselves were worthy of it. The sample of Sortilege came in a little 7.5ml clear glass cylindrical flacon with a black screw cap and a cloth-like label. There was certainly enough perfume to use several times before giving a proper review, but since I was so excited, I decided to do a review on Sortilege tonight.

I must begin this by saying that I was pleasantly surprised. I was half expecting a modern, aldehydic, sugary sweet stink bomb, as is the popular genre nowadays even with the return of old houses....but no, this actually smells like a vintage perfume plucked from someone's hidden stash, one that hasn't turned sour. This scent was NOT made for the 14 year old teeny bopper at the mall. This was created for the sophisticated, elegant lady. A lady who appreciates traditional French perfumery.

At first dab, it has a wonderful powdery aldehydic top note that is seamlessly blended with delicate florals. Here I find a bridal bouquet of roses, lily of the valley, lilac, and jasmine with a spike of narcissus and ylang. This smells like a very expensive French soap. I adore the soapiness here. There is no sharpness that I thought I would encounter, just velvety soft florals mixed with dusty iris. The mimosa gives it a fuzzy effect that I love. Wrapped up in this kitteny-soft cashmere like dry down is sandalwood and musk. Ambergris and labdanum round out the composition in a soothing marriage upon the skin.

The chypre accord is very subtle here, not the pungent green that you normally associate with the chypres. I notice that very well-done chypres have an accord which I like to call the scent of old money. The distinct smell of dollar bills taken from an old leather wallet. The fragrance Balenciaga Paris, has this divine accord.

After about two hours, I can still smell traces of the florals and the musk, it is very comfortable and would be ideal for romantic evenings or to spritz on before bed. I also feel that it would be a nice fragrance for a bride to wear.

Now I have had the original vintage Sortilege and it just didn't agree with my skin, but this newer one does and I actually prefer it.

I will be reviewing more fragrances from Le Galion in the coming months.

So what did this fragrance inspire in my mind? I love to conjure up images when I try out perfumes. Read on for more...

A late night phone call from her lover awakens her from a romantic dream. He informs her he will be stopping by for a midnight visit in a few hours. She excitedly hurries into the bathroom to take a bath before he arrives. Drawing a very warm bath, she pours in a vintage bath oil scented with mimosa, lily of the valley and narcissus. Dipping her foot into the sudsy tub, she tests the water and decides that it is the perfect temperature and slides in. Dozens of pearlescent bubbles cover her soft skin as she grabs her sea sponge to soap up her milky white shoulders. Wistfully, she closes her eyes and inhales the delicate floral scent of her bath oil as her body warms up to the water.

After some time, she steps out of the tub and dries off with an Egyptian cotton towel, admiring herself in the long mirror. She begins to rub her smooth skin with a sensual body moisturizer scented with lilac and iris. She then opens a drawer and picks out a mauve silk charmeuse and gossamer lace chemise and slips it over her head and over her toned body. Her antique diamond necklace twinkles playfully in the light of her amber candles, casting a warm glow in her boudoir. Satisfied with her reflection in the mirror, she goes into her sitting room and grabs the bouquet of red and pink roses from the cut crystal vase on her accent table. Impulsively, she plucks the velvety petals from each thorny stem and sprinkles them over her ivory satin sheets.

At the same time, her lover returns home from his job working as the head of a prestigious company. He removes his clothes for a well deserved hot shower, washing all over with an earthy vetiver shower gel, fragrant suds clinging to his taut skin, glimmering like jewels. Finished with his bathing ritual, he steps out of the shower and dries off with a thick Turkish towel. Swirling his badger brush into a bowl of Yardley's sandalwood shaving soap, he paints his handsome face with the creamy lather. Then skims the old fashioned straight razor across his chiseled jaw line. Rinsing off his face with splashes of cold water, he then shakes some musky after shave onto his hands and rubs them over his face and broad, hairy chest. He opens a drawer to grab a pair of black boxer briefs and sits on the bed to slip his muscular legs into his trousers. He then heads into his closet and throws on a comfortable sweater and finishes getting dressed. His gold wristwatch twinkles in the light as he takes a quick glance in the mirror, and he walks out the door and to his car.

Impatiently, she sits at her vanity and gracefully applies just a touch of powder to her beautiful face and a swipe of pink lipstick on her full pouty lips. Her cerulean eyes scan the gilded vanity at the collection of perfume bottles lined up like little soldiers. Picking up a vintage cut crystal atomizer, she sprays an ethereal cloud of the aldehydic Sortilege by Le Galion onto her body, a souvenir from her lover's last business trip to Paris. Her skin is so sensitive, that the cool mist creates a pleasant rush of goosebumps which spreads over her decolletage. A knock at the door makes her sprint like a gazelle to her lover's strong, waiting arms.

Mai Tai by Browny c1950

Mai Tai by Browny (Royal Hawaiian Perfumes) was launched in 1950.

Havana Weed Oil by Regency Cosmetics c1975

"A not so ordinary weed threatens to engulf America with its unusual scent. But before you reach over and dial the Environmental Protection Agency, may be you ought to know the ancient legend of the Malagua tree, and the manner of its modern-times use to create a new trend to unisexual fragrances.

Nirmala by Molinard c1955

Nirmala by Molinard was launched in 1955. It was originally created as a marriage of the flowers of Provence and the rare essences of India.

Ambergris by Alyssa Ashley c1975

The perfume was launched in 1975 and was discontinued sometime in the early 1980s.

Galanos by Galanos c1979

Galanos by Parfums Galanos: launched in 1979 in association with Dana Perfumes. Premier designer and personal couturier to Nancy Reagan, James G. Galanos’s signature perfume, aptly named Galanos was an instant hit with customers.

L'Effleurt by Coty c1907 vs. L'Effleur by Coty c1990

In the year 1907, Coty unveiled a captivating creation to the discerning society of the Edwardian era: L’Effleurt, a delicate floral perfume ensconced within a Baccarat flacon adorned with a label fashioned by the esteemed Rene Lalique.

This fragrant offering arrived amidst a time when elegance, refinement, and romance reigned supreme in the hearts of the populace. The turn of the century marked an era of opulence and sophistication, where every detail, from attire to accouterments, was meticulously curated to exude grace and charm.

With its enchanting slogan, ‘Somewhere inside romance blossoms,’ and the poetic declaration, "Fragrance of dream gardens - delicately accentuating the loveliness of flower women," L’Effleurt promised to transport wearers to a realm of ethereal beauty and timeless allure.

Such a perfume would have been received with great admiration and enthusiasm by the Edwardian society, as it perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the era—a desire for elegance, refinement, and a touch of romantic escapism. The exquisite craftsmanship of the Baccarat flacon and Lalique-designed label, coupled with the alluring fragrance within, would have undoubtedly captivated the hearts and senses of those fortunate enough to experience it. L’Effleurt stood as a testament to the artistry and sophistication of the time, solidifying Coty’s position as a purveyor of luxury and refinement in the world of perfumery.