Ming Toy by Parfums Forest c1923

The magnificent Ming Toy was created for Parfums Forest in 1923. The name is an anglicized version of a Chinese name. Ming Toy is a Chinese girl in the musical comedy "East Is West" from  (1918). The name is one of many exotic perfumes manufactured in the 1920s given Near Eastern inspired names including: Shanghai, Le Temple Chinois,  Mitsouko, Wanaranee, Crepe de Chine, Tsingtao, Mitsuiva, Hasu-No-Hana, Lucille de Chine, Kai Sang, Phul-Nana, Cha Ming, Kananga du Japon, Vale of Kashmar, Ming, Cho-Cho-San, Tsang-Ihang, Mai Wang, Kesako, Yoshiwara, Chin Ching, and Chu-Chin-Chow.

Fay Bainter and Hassard Short in Ming Toy.

Ming Toy Perfume Bottle. On March 25, 1924, Leon Cohn of Paris, France, patented his design in America for a perfume bottle. The bottle represented a seated figure of a Chinese girl with fan in hand and fancy headdress which formed the stopper of the bottle. The bottle was manufactured by Baccarat. The name "Ming Toy" is painted across the face of the fan, and the bottle of crystal glass has been decorated with colored enamels and gold. The bottle stands 4 3/8" tall.

Parfums Le Galion

Le Galion of Neuilly and Paris France.

The story of Parfums Le Galion begins in 1930 with the founding of the house by Prince Murat, who was a descendant of Joachim Murat, brother in law of Napoleon 1st, and King of Naples. The company was originally located at 11 bis, rue Amelie in Paris.

Jardanel by Jean Desprez c1938

Jardanel by Jean Desprez was launched in 1938, a period marked by the looming shadows of World War II. The late 1930s were a time of both tension and transition, with Europe on the brink of conflict but still clinging to the vestiges of pre-war elegance and sophistication. In France, the era was characterized by a blend of anxiety and a desire for escapism. High society sought solace in art, fashion, and fragrance, cherishing the last moments of a world that would soon be irrevocably changed. Perfumes of this time often carried a sense of nostalgia, beauty, and a yearning for simpler, more idyllic times.

Jean Desprez, a master perfumer known for his exquisite creations, chose the name "Jardanel" for this particular fragrance. The name "Jardanel" is a combination of "jardin," the French word for garden, and "anel," which could be derived from the French word "aneler," meaning to entwine or encircle. Thus, "Jardanel" can be interpreted as "garden entwined" or "encircled garden." This evokes imagery of a lush, fragrant garden, a place of natural beauty and tranquility. The name is inherently French, carrying the elegance and sophistication associated with French gardens, known for their meticulously designed landscapes and rich floral displays.

Choosing "Jardanel" as the name for a perfume is particularly appropriate because gardens are often associated with a variety of enchanting scents. A garden is a place where nature's fragrances blend harmoniously, creating an olfactory experience that is both soothing and invigorating. The name suggests a perfume that captures the essence of a garden, with notes that might include floral, green, and earthy elements, reminiscent of blooming flowers, fresh leaves, and damp soil. This aligns with the trends of the time, where there was a strong appreciation for natural and fresh fragrances.

The target audience for a perfume named "Jardanel" in the late 1930s would likely have been women who appreciated the elegance and refinement of French culture. These women would have been drawn to the romantic and sophisticated connotations of a garden, finding comfort and pleasure in a scent that offered an escape to a serene, natural haven. In a world on the cusp of turmoil, the idea of a peaceful, beautiful garden would have been particularly appealing, evoking a sense of calm and stability.

The images and feelings evoked by the word "Jardanel" are those of serenity, beauty, and nature. One might envision a sun-drenched garden filled with a riot of colorful flowers, the gentle buzz of bees, and the soft rustling of leaves in the breeze. The scent would likely transport the wearer to this idyllic setting, offering a sensory escape from the harsh realities of the time. Feelings of joy, tranquility, and a connection to nature would be central to the experience of wearing Jardanel, making it a cherished addition to a woman's perfume collection.

When Jardanel was relaunched in 1944, the world was in the midst of World War II, a starkly different environment from its initial launch. However, the name and concept remained a poignant reminder of peace and beauty amidst chaos. The fragrance would have resonated deeply with those longing for a return to normalcy and the simple pleasures of life, such as the timeless beauty of a garden.

Jean Desprez Perfumes

Jean Desprez of 17 rue de la Paix, Paris; perfumerie established by Jean Desprez (1898 to 1973) the great-grandson of F Millot who created 'Crêpe de Chine'. Jean was a top class perfumer by profession who employed Paul Mergier to design the packaging for his products, and Leon Leyritz to design the bottles. Still a family run and owned business.

The perfumes of Jean Desprez:

• 1939 Etourdissant
• 1939 Grand Dame
• 1939 Scheherazade
• 1939 Votre Main
• 1947 40 Love
• 1962 Bal A Versailles
• 1973 Jardanel

Maitresse by Agent Provocateur c2006

Maitresse by Agent Provocateur: launched in 2006, created by Azzi Glasser.

From Agent Provocateur:

AP Maitresse is an intoxicating Eau De Parfum with the passionate top notes of White Lotus Petals and delicate nuances of white Ylang Ylang, caressed by the pure essence of Osmanthus core, and immersed deep into Jasmin Sambac...the scent of seduction.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, white lotus petals, ylang ylang and violet leaves
• Middle notes: osmanthus, jasmine and rose
• Base notes: iris, amber, musk, patchouli and white suede

The egg-shaped (bomb-shaped) bottle is finished in rich gilding.

Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 0.25 oz Eau de Parfum Purse Spray
Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 1 oz Eau de Parfum
Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum
Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum
Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 6.7 oz Seductive Milk Body Wash 
Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 2pc Coffret: 1 oz EDP and 2.5 oz Luxurious Body Eixir 
Click HERE to purchase Maitresse 3pc Coffret: 3.3 oz EDP, 0.34 oz EDP Roll On and 5.07 oz Luxurious Body Elixir 


The success of Maitresse by Agent Provocateur spawned a flanker scent: Maitresse Eau Provocateur.

From Agent Provocateur:

Provocative and enigmatic, this modern interpretation of Maitresse will leave you wanting more. Here lie fragrant accords of Rose, Jasmin Sambac and Iris with delightfully light, green notes of Acacia (a thorny shrub). A green note of Granny Smith Apples makes this lingering scent so fresh and floral. A delectable base of Amber, Sandalwood, Tonka and gourmand elements complete this floral feast.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women, with a dominant note of iris.

• Top notes: rose, Sambac jasmine and iris 
• Middle notes: granny smith apple and acacia
• Base notes: amber, sandalwood, tonka bean

Click HERE to purchase Maitresse Eau 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette

The Perfumes of Coryse Salome & Cartier

Coryse was established in 1919 by Maurice Blanchetat 64 rue de la Chaussee-d'Antin, Paris and sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. He purchased the perfumery Salome in 1929 and the two companies merged into Coryse-Salome.

Actress Billie Burke on Perfumes c1922

I came across an interesting article featuring American red headed actress "Billie" Burke, the wife of Florenz Ziegfeld, Jr. in an old issue of Theatre Magazine. You may remember her as "Glinda the Good Witch" in the 1939 Wizard of Oz film.

Theatre Magazine, Volume 35, 1922:

Billie Burke has told us a very interesting thing in connection with perfumes... Miss Burke, who is playing in Booth Tarkington's "Intimate Strangers" at the Henry Miller Theatre, "loves perfumes". Not too well, but wisely...She has made a great study of them. 

"Perfumes are stimulating, and they are soothing" she says, "They are stimulating for yourself as well as for the people round you . And nothing can appeal more to the imagination or more quickly revive old memories and sentiments than a perfume. If I were a woman trying to resuscitate the embers of a dying flame, ' laughed Miss Burke,  'I should lean heavily on the perfume end of it...the perfume he loved in the days that were, so to speak. 

Though as a matter of fact that wouldn't do in my own case, because I use so many perfumes...this for a certain dress or occasion, or mood, that for another one...I think many modern women do, don't you...I know a lot of them, especially actresses...instead of having just one, as they used to. It is the newer note. Still there's much to be said on both sides." 

But that's not the particular" interesting thing" we started out to tell you..Only, we knew you'd like to hear whatever Miss Burke had to say...She is so individual...and there is no more fascinating subject in the world than perfumes... 

No...what she said that peculiarly arrested our attention was, that she is so devoted to perfumes...they mean so much to her and she is so sensitive to their influence, that on many occasions she even gets a special. perfume for the part she is going to play.
"To have a perfume that seems to fit the personality of the woman I am going to impersonate helps put me 'into' the mood and character. It was a bit difficult to get the right perfume for Isabel in "The Intimate Strangers"...it had to be a perfume very feminine, something typical of many women, yet with a modern note... a blend of the old and the new. Nothing in my own repertoire of perfumes seemed just 'it'. I went around to several of my favorite perfume counters sniffing and sniffing. 

"Finally, my pet saleswoman said, "Try this violet, Miss Burke"...Violet, I thought, that's the right idea...that's what I want...and this violet was absolutely delicious...just like the fresh flowers. And what do you suppose! I was so astonished...it was an American make, a well-known American manufacturer I had never thought I could use anything but French perfumes before. If I had known these American manufacturers could compete so successfully with the French, I should have included their perfumes in my collection long ago. Since then, I have bought several of them...their rose is as delicious as their violet...it, too, smells like the fresh flower....and there is an enticing Oriental odor." 

 The moral of Miss Burke's tale is two fold: 

 First, we says to ourself, says we, if perfume can help put an actress 'into' a personality on the stage, why can't it help in the same way off the stage? It can....Choose the type of lady you wish to be for the day or the hour, a languorous Oriental type...a sweet demure, young thing...a 'blend of the old and new' (as Miss Burke called it) and let your perfume black-magic you into your part. How about it?
 Second, take to heart what Miss Burke says about the merits of the American perfumes! 

Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil c1941

Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil, launched in 1941, is a fragrance steeped in emotional depth and reflection, embodying the essence of its name. The word Nostalgia, derived from the Greek nostos (meaning "return home") and algia (meaning "pain"), refers to a wistful longing for the past, evoking emotions of yearning and sentimentality. Choosing the name Nostalgia for a perfume in the early 1940s was not only poignant but deeply evocative, as the world was in the grip of World War II—a time when thoughts of the past and a desire for peace and stability were at the forefront of people’s minds. The name taps into the universal human experience of memory, of longing for a simpler, happier time, and of reflecting on the fleeting moments that bring comfort during uncertainty.

In scent, Nostalgia would naturally be interpreted as a fragrance that evokes both warmth and melancholy, creating a bridge between the past and the present. The opening notes of powdery aldehydes, known for their soft, clean, and slightly soapy quality, are often associated with the elegance of classic perfumes. These aldehydes lend a sense of timelessness and sophistication, evoking the image of a woman dressed in refined, vintage elegance. The bright citrus notes that accompany the aldehydes provide an immediate freshness, a reminder of brighter days, perhaps symbolizing hope amidst the dark realities of the war.

As the scent unfolds, the heart reveals a floral bouquet dominated by lilac, jasmine, and rose. These flowers, with their soft, romantic qualities, add an air of femininity and grace. Lilac, with its nostalgic connotations of spring and renewal, pairs beautifully with the timeless appeal of rose and the sultry depth of jasmine, creating an emotional pull. The floral notes in Nostalgia speak to a longing for love, beauty, and the familiar comforts of home, things that would have been acutely missed by women living through the hardships and separations of the war years.

The base notes—warm, rich, mossy, and woodsy—ground the fragrance in a comforting earthiness. Oakmoss and sandalwood, staples of the chypre fragrance family, provide a sense of depth and solidity, almost like an anchor to the past. The richness of these base notes mirrors the complexity of memory, the way in which emotions linger and deepen over time. In this way, Nostalgia captures not just the fleeting beauty of floral notes but also the enduring power of memory, with its warmth and quiet strength.

Parfums Massenet

Parfums Massenet, Inc., 509 Madison Ave, New York, New York. Established by G.R Parkinson in Paris around 1940.

Ambush by Dana c1955

Ambush by Dana was launched in 1955. It was reportedly created by Jean Carles.

It was available in parfum and eau de cologne.