What is Parfum de Toilette?

I get numerous questions about fragrance concentrations from my readers. People seem to be confused about terms such as "Parfum de Toilettes", to answer your queries, here is my easy guide to tell you what they really are.

Let's break it down from the top with Parfum.
Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. A parfum may contain up to 20-30 percent oils and high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water. Vintage Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfums can be composed up of natural and synthetic ingredients, no matter if they are vintage or modern. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume. Any mixture lower in oils is known as an eau.

Next in concentration is the Eau de Parfum.

Eau de Parfum, also known as Esprit de Parfum, Secret de Parfum, Millesime, or Parfum de Toilette, is composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. Vintage Eau de Parfum, Esprit de Parfum, or Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils and were highly concentrated. Eau de Parfums usually last about 4-8 hours. 

Parfum de Toilette first started being used around 1960 by Coty, followed by Revillon, Caron, Nina Ricci Rochas, Salvador Dali, Le Galion, Jean Desprez, Weil, Houbigant, Worth, Craven, Dolce & Gabbana and other brands. The timeframe for Parfum de Toilette usage was 1960-2000. The last time I saw "Parfum de Toilette" advertised in a newspaper was 1989. 

Christian Dior had both "Esprit de Parfum" for the Poison line, Dune, Miss Dior, Dioressence, Diorissimo and "Secret de Parfum", mostly for Opium. Oscar de la Renta had an Esprit de Parfum for his signature fragrance Oscar. 

Orlane had a Secret de Parfum for their scent Fleurs d'Orlane, as did Guerlain as a limited edition for Shalimar. 

Creed uses Millesime. According to Creed, the house hand-selects the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each “Millesime”, or Creed fragrance. Millesime indicates that The House of Creed has hand-selected the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each Creed fragrance. Creed Millesime fragrances are blends that consist of the highest-quality concentration of infused essential oils made from raw materials. Millesime can also refer to their fragrances being hand-crafted by our Master Perfumer, Olivier Creed.. 

Today most brands use the term Eau de Parfum, most of the other terms were used in vintage fragrances. Creed still uses the term Millesime.

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Eau de Toilette: also called toilet water, is a much thinner dilution of the same materials, containing approximately only 4-10 percent of essential oils, in an even weaker alcohol and water mixture. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. Meant to be splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.


Lesser concentrations:


Eau de Cologne: for men or women, or aftershave, is further diluted, about 3-5 percent of essential oils, in an even still weaker alcohol and water mix. Usually lasts about 2 hours. Meant to be liberally splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates. Used for toning and refreshing the skin after bathing.


Eau Fraiche: this is the weakest form of fragrance on the market, a light toilet water similar to cologne or splash usually with 1-3 percent of essential oil in water and a higher grade of alcohol. Usually lasts for less than an hour. Meant to be liberally reapplied throughout the day for a refreshing feeling. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Voile de Parfum: also known as Eau Parfumée, Voile d'Été, Eau Sans Alcool, Brume de Parfum, Perfume Mist, is a non-alcoholic fragrance diluted with water and about 3-8 percent essential oils. Typically used to be worn during the warmer months at the beach or in warmer climates.

Miracle by Lentheric c1924

In 1924, when Lentheric launched the perfume "Miracle - Miracle," the world was amidst a transformative era marked by artistic and cultural revolutions. This period, known as the Roaring Twenties, epitomized a newfound sense of liberation and decadence following the First World War. The name "Miracle - Miracle" was carefully chosen to resonate with the zeitgeist of the time, capturing the spirit of optimism, innovation, and fascination with the extraordinary.

Against this backdrop, Max Reinhardt's play "Miracle" became a sensation, starring the enchanting actress Diana Manners, celebrated for her beauty and charm. The play itself symbolized the allure of theatrical magic and the ability to transport audiences to realms of wonder and fantasy. Lentheric's decision to name their perfume after this play was strategic, aiming to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that resonated with the desires of the era's cosmopolitan and sophisticated clientele.

Moreover, the name "Miracle - Miracle" suggests not only the miraculous allure of the fragrance itself but also the transformative power it promises to its wearer. Just as Diana Manners captured hearts on stage, the perfume sought to captivate with its elegant blend of scents, promising wearers a touch of theatrical glamour and sophistication. In essence, the choice of name was a nod to the cultural currents of the time, where art, theater, and beauty converged to create moments of pure enchantment and allure, mirroring the essence of Lentheric's exquisite fragrance.

Les Parfums de Colmy

Established by Edouard Colmant at 348 rue Saint-Honoré, Paris; also owned Parfumerie E. Coudray.

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay c1960

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay: launched in 1960.

History of Perfumery in the 17th Century

In the 16th and 17th centuries, bathing was to a large extent abandoned in favor of the liberal use of toilet waters, scented powders and luxurious fragrances.

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan c1992

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan: launched in September 1992. Created by Jean-Claude Delville and Pierre Wargnye.

Spurred by her husband Stephan Weiss' desire to leave a lasting legacy beyond her fashion house, Donna Karan entered the world of fragrance. Taking a cue from Coco Chanel, whose iconic fashion empire was revived by her perfume ventures, Karan's husband persuaded her with the eventual fact that "hemlines go up and down, but fragrance is forever". 

Variations by Carven c1971

Variations by Carven: launched in 1971.

Allez Hop by Jovoy c1924

Allez Hop by Jovoy: launched in 1924.

CB Rocca

In 1946, Clara Hirsch, operating under the business name Rocca in Paris, France, filed a trademark registration. This registration covered a range of products including perfume, rouge (cosmetic), and dentifrice (toothpaste) under the name CB Rocca. The filing date for the trademark was July 30, 1946.

The trademark registration claimed use of the Rocca brand since May 25, 1897. This suggests that Clara Hirsch had been actively using the Rocca name for these products for nearly half a century before the trademark filing.

In 1946, ownership of the Rocca trademark belonged to Clara Hirsch, indicating her established role in the perfumery and cosmetic industry in Paris. The long history of the Rocca brand underscores its enduring presence and reputation in the marketplace from the late 19th century onward.

Ivoire de Balmain c1979

Ivoire de Balmain: launched in 1979. Created by Michel Hy and Francis Camail of Florasynth. Pierre Balmain stated that he was inspired by his lifelong "desire to create elegance and beauty for women." First distributed by Revlon in the United States. In 1985, Balmain Perfumes was acquired from Revlon by Cobepa, the Belgian subsidiary of Paribas. Jacques Bergerac (the brother of Michel, the ex-number one of Revlon) remains the CEO.