Paul Jones Fine Perfumes of Honolulu

Paul Jones Fine Perfumes of Honolulu, Hawaii, was a notable enterprise in the fragrance industry from at least 1939 until 1950, as evidenced by newspaper advertisements and articles. The company, established by Paul Jones, originally from Piedmont, California, drew inspiration from the lush and exotic scents of the Hawaiian Islands, despite Jones never having visited them personally. His connection to the islands was deeply influenced by the evocative works of Don Blanding, particularly Blanding's "Hula Moons" and the alluring brochure “Hawaii via Aromas.” Blanding's poetic descriptions, such as “If moonlight were fragrant it would smell like white ginger,” painted a vivid sensory picture that captivated Jones’s imagination.

Background:

Paul Jones was a research expert for Balbour-Guthrie & Co. and had previously worked as a chemist on developing new insecticides for Shell Oil Company. His scientific background was extensive, being a fellow of the American Association for the Advancement of Science and a member of the American Chemical Society and the Society of Economic Entomology before transitioning to perfumery. 

Jones, having left his position as a chemist for Shell Oil, was driven by a passion to recreate the enchanting aromas of the South Seas. In a small rented house in Porterville, California, where he set up a makeshift laboratory in the garage, he began his journey into perfumery. It was here that he developed his first fragrance, Amber Estrellita, a tribute to his wife. The name "Estrellita", meaning "little star" in Spanish, was a nod to the famed Spanish dancer, Estrellita, who was among the pioneering performers to introduce the hula dance professionally. Born Stella Hurtig in 1879 and marrying Paul Jones in 1920, she was a central figure in Jones's life and his source of inspiration for his early perfumes.

Paul and Estrellita Jones purchased their home in Piedmont in 1939, around the same time Jones was making a name for himself in the fragrance world. Estrellita shared that their home at 237 Bonita Avenue, Piedmont, CA, had become a veritable perfume laboratory, with the perfume production taking up nine rooms of the house. This dedication to their craft and the scale of their operation underscored their commitment to creating unique and memorable scents, each with its own story and emotional resonance.

While Paul Jones worked diligently on creating his perfumes in the basement laboratory of their Piedmont home, Estrellita Jones took charge of the artistic and commercial aspects of their business. With a keen eye for design, she crafted the bottles, boxes, and labels for the perfumes, ensuring that each product was not only a sensory delight but also a visual one. Her attention to detail extended to the elegant presentation of the bottles, each adorned with handmade silk chiffon leis, which added a touch of exotic charm and sophistication.

His dedication to capturing the essence of Hawaiian fragrances and the influence of his wife's name reflected the personal and artistic dimensions of his work. Despite the geographic and personal distances, Jones’s creations successfully bridged his inspirations with the sensorial experiences he sought to convey through his perfumes.

For his efforts, Paul Jones earned the prestigious title of "the best nose in America" from Dr. Sam Isermann, head of Van Dyck Chemical Companies, a testament to his exceptional olfactory abilities. It was said that Jones could identify up to 7,500 different scents, showcasing his extraordinary skill and dedication to the art of perfumery. His commitment to perfection was evident in his meticulous approach to creating fragrances. He was known to spend extensive periods refining his formulas until he achieved the perfect blend. For instance, it took him a decade to perfect the formula for his signature scent, Amber Estrellita, reflecting his unwavering dedication to quality.

Don Blanding, a close friend and collaborator, took a keen interest in the Jones' venture. He showcased their work at a garden show he produced, lending his artistic and literary prestige to their perfume line. In Carmel's magazine, the Pine Cone, Blanding described Paul Jones as "a scientist with a romantic imagination," highlighting the unique blend of scientific rigor and creative passion that defined Jones' work.  

Jones described himself as an "orchestrator of scents," a fitting label that captured his role in harmonizing various aromatic components into a cohesive and captivating fragrance. This self-description highlighted his deep understanding of the subtleties of perfumery and his ability to blend ingredients with the precision of a conductor leading an orchestra.

Estrellita's nephew provided further insight into Jones's expertise, noting that he possessed a profound knowledge of perfumery techniques. He was well-versed in distinguishing between complex ingredients like ambergris and civet, understanding the nuances of aging both perfume and alcohol to enhance their characteristics. Jones's mastery of these elements was complemented by his collaboration with Dr. Isermann, which significantly advanced his skills in perfume creation.

Despite his technical prowess, it was Estrellita who often had the final say on the fragrance's quality. Her discerning nose and keen sense of what constituted the perfect scent meant that she would frequently challenge and refine Jones's creations, ensuring that each fragrance met her exacting standards. Her critical input played a crucial role in achieving the refined and evocative scents that defined Paul Jones Fine Perfumes.

By 1949, the Jones' had developed over 600 kinds of perfumes and registered 60 of them with the government, including a line of eight perfumes reminiscent of Hawaii. 

Marketing:

Estrellita's influence was also evident in the naming of the fragrances. She selected names that were both feminine and romantic, reflecting her vision of perfume as an evocative, rather than merely alluring, experience. One such name was Ua Lani, which translates to "Heavenly Mist" in Hawaiian. This choice of names was a deliberate departure from the provocative and often sensational titles used by major perfume companies of the time. Estrellita viewed these seductive names and claims of "sin" as not only misleading but also as undermining the true essence of perfume. For her, the true allure of a fragrance lay in its ability to evoke cherished memories and emotions, rather than relying on superficial or sensational marketing tactics.

Paul Jones believed that an impersonal perfume could become highly individualistic according to the bodily chemistry of the wearer. He remarked, "It evokes different pictures for each person. To one person 'sin' might seem an appropriate name while another might choose 'green pasture.'" This philosophy underlined his approach to perfumery, where the scent was a deeply personal experience, varying from person to person.

Estrellita's philosophy was clear and impactful: "The only charm of perfume is the power it has to evoke memories." This perspective guided her in creating an authentic and heartfelt collection of fragrances, making each one a personal tribute to the romanticism and elegance she believed should be at the heart of perfumery. Through her meticulous designs and thoughtful approach, Estrellita Jones played a crucial role in shaping the identity and success of Paul Jones Fine Perfumes.

Paul and Estrellita Jones held a distinct aversion to large-scale advertising, choosing instead to avoid the flashy slogans and risque imagery common in the perfume industry of their time. Their promotional strategy leaned towards subtlety, utilizing small snippets in newspapers to maintain a refined and understated presence. This minimalist approach mirrored their preference for personal engagement over broad, impersonal marketing campaigns.

Their primary method of promotion relied on word of mouth within their circle of friends and business associates. Paul and Estrellita often hosted intimate perfume-smelling sessions at their Piedmont home. These gatherings were more than mere product demonstrations; they were social events that showcased Estrellita's charisma and the elegance of their perfumes. Dressed in dazzling costumes, Estrellita became the star of these occasions. Her attire was a vivid spectacle: her shoulders were draped in rare Spanish shawls, and she wore her favorite black hat adorned with a striking red rose. Each outfit was complemented by exotic elements such as sequined mantillas, ornate jewelry, and prized hair combs made of jade, tortoiseshell, and jet.

Adding to the theatrical flair, Estrellita would bring out cherished memorabilia from her dancing days, including lacy Spanish fans, castanets, finger cymbals, and vividly colored silk stockings. This blend of visual and sensory stimulation created an enchanting atmosphere that captivated her guests. Her magnetic personality and the elaborate, evocative setting ensured that attendees left with not only fond memories but often with bottles of Paul Jones' fine perfumes in hand. For those who were particularly fortunate, they might even receive the perfumes as gifts, further cementing the personal touch and enduring charm that Paul and Estrellita brought to their business.

Paul and Estrellita Jones were resolutely uninterested in the mass production of their perfumes. Despite the allure of lucrative deals from large companies seeking to purchase in bulk and re-bottle the fragrances under their own names, the Joneses consistently turned down such proposals. Their commitment was to maintain the exclusivity and artisanal quality of their creations, which they preferred to distribute through a select group of dealers rather than broad, impersonal channels.

Their approach was intentionally intimate, focusing on a few distinguished shops where their perfumes could be appreciated and savored. This selective distribution allowed their customers to experience a piece of paradise captured within each bottle. For many, especially those who had visited Hawaii, the perfumes served as cherished mementos, evoking memories of their tropical travels and the unique allure of the islands.

A distinctive feature of their perfume labels was the marking with "TH," an abbreviation for the Territory of Hawaii. This designation was a nod to the period before Hawaii became a U.S. state in 1959, adding an extra layer of nostalgia and historical charm to the products. This subtle detail not only reflected the geographical origins of their inspiration but also underscored the Joneses' commitment to preserving the authentic spirit of their Hawaiian-themed fragrances.

An Unfortunate End:

In a tragic turn of events, Paul Jones, the renowned perfumer behind the exquisite fragrances of his namesake brand, suffered severe injuries in his perfume lab. While distilling alcohol—a delicate process involving the careful heating of spirits—some of the liquid splashed near a Bunsen burner. The resultant flames quickly caught on his trousers, leading to catastrophic burns on his legs. Given Paul's compromised immune system due to diabetes, his ability to recover from such injuries was significantly diminished. The burns, coupled with his weakened state, ultimately proved fatal, and Paul Jones passed away in 1955.

In the aftermath of this devastating event, the legacy of Paul Jones' work continued through the efforts of his widow, Estrellita. Following Paul’s death, Estrellita's heir, her nephew Frank Tinney, took steps to preserve the memory of her husband's contributions to the world of perfume. The remaining items from the perfume factory, including bottles, labels, and other artifacts, were generously donated to the Oakland Museum. This gesture ensured that the artistry and innovation of Paul Jones' perfumes were not lost to history but were instead honored and preserved for future generations to appreciate and study. The donation reflects a lasting commitment to celebrating the craftsmanship and dedication that defined Paul Jones' career and the enduring legacy of his contributions to the world of fragrance.

The perfumes of Paul Jones:

• 1935 Ambre Estrellita
• 1935 My Sweet
• 1935 One More Spring
• 1935 Paradise
• 1935 Pikaki/Pikake Intense
• 1935 Some Enchanted Evening
• 1935 Pine Cones of Carmel
• 1935 Seaward
• 1937 Unconquered
• 1939 White Ginger of Hawaii
• 1939 Flower Lei
• 1941 Aloha Nui
• 1941 A Night To Remember
• 1941 Huapala
• 1941 Tropical Fruit
• 1941 Kieli
• 1941 Pono Moi
• 1941 Ua Lani  
• 1946 Honi-Honi
• 1960 Cologne-centrate
• Happiness (the re-branded Poni Moi)

The Perfumes:

Paul and Estrellita Jones created a line of eight perfumes that evoked the essence of Hawaii. This collection was a testament to Paul Jones' expertise and dedication to capturing the unique fragrances of the islands. Each bottle was adorned with dainty leis made of chiffon, a touch that added authenticity and charm, directly linking the perfumes to Hawaiian culture. These delicate leis were not just decorative; they were a part of the Jones' specialty, a signature of their meticulous attention to detail and their desire to offer an immersive experience.

The floral notes in this Hawaiian line were carefully selected to represent the diverse and vibrant flora of the islands. Gardenias, known for their rich and intoxicating scent, provided a lush, creamy foundation. Carnations added a spicy, clove-like fragrance, bringing depth and complexity to the blends. Jasmines, with their sweet and exotic aroma, infused the perfumes with a heady, floral richness. Night-blooming cereus, a flower that emits a powerful fragrance under the moonlight, contributed a mysterious and enchanting note. White ginger, with its spicy and slightly sweet scent, was a standout element that required three years of perfection to capture accurately. Paul Jones' dedication to refining the aroma of ginger exemplified his commitment to excellence and authenticity.

Each perfume in the Hawaiian line was a result of Paul Jones' extensive knowledge and skill as a perfumer. His ability to orchestrate these natural essences into harmonious blends showcased his expertise and creativity. Estrellita's contribution to the design and presentation of the perfumes ensured that each bottle was a work of art, reflecting the beauty and allure of Hawaii.

The time and effort invested in perfecting these fragrances paid off, as the perfumes were not just products but experiences that transported the wearer to the lush landscapes and fragrant gardens of Hawaii. The Jones' Hawaiian line was more than just a collection of scents; it was a tribute to the islands' natural beauty and a testament to the couple's passion for creating perfumes that evoked vivid memories and emotions.

Flowery Lei:

The perfume Flowery Lei was designed to capture the essence of Honolulu, blending the scents of various tropical flowers into a single, harmonious fragrance. Described as a "composite fragrance of all the flowers," Flowery Lei aimed to evoke the first impression of Hawaii with its rich, floral aroma. This perfume sought to embody the romance and allure of the islands, intertwining the delicate and varied scents that characterize Hawaii's vibrant flora.

In Hawaiian culture, leis hold significant cultural and symbolic importance. A lei is a traditional Hawaiian garland or necklace made from a variety of materials, including flowers, leaves, shells, or feathers. These adornments are often given as a symbol of love, honor, or celebration. They are commonly presented during significant occasions such as weddings, graduations, and welcoming ceremonies. The act of draping a lei around someone's neck is a gesture of warmth and respect, embodying the spirit of aloha that pervades Hawaiian hospitality.

The importance of leis extends beyond their ceremonial use. They represent the beauty and natural abundance of Hawaii, with each lei often crafted from local flora that reflects the island's unique environment. Flowers such as plumerias, orchids, and hibiscus are frequently used, each contributing its distinct fragrance and visual appeal. The leis symbolize a connection to the land and its rich traditions, making them an integral part of Hawaii’s cultural heritage. By capturing the essence of these flowers in the perfume Flowery Lei, Paul and Estrellita Jones aimed to offer a sensory experience that resonated with the island's deep-rooted traditions and beauty.

Aloha Nui:

The perfume Aloha Nui was crafted to evoke a profound emotional resonance, capturing "the sadness of leaving" and "the desire to return." Its name, Aloha Nui, translates to "Great Aloha" or "Much Aloha" in Hawaiian. The term "Aloha" is a central element of Hawaiian culture, encompassing a deep sense of love, affection, and compassion. When paired with "Nui," meaning "great" or "much," the name suggests an overwhelming, heartfelt sentiment.

In the context of perfume, Aloha Nui embodies the bittersweet emotions associated with departing from a beloved place and the longing to return. This emotional depth aligns with the concept of aloha, which is not merely a greeting but an expression of profound, heartfelt connection and respect. The perfume's essence was designed to encapsulate the nostalgic and poignant feelings that arise when one leaves a place imbued with personal significance and beauty.

Hawaii, with its enchanting landscapes and warm hospitality, often evokes strong emotional ties in those who visit. The island's unique charm and the experiences it offers can create lasting memories, making departure a source of genuine sadness and a yearning to return. By naming the perfume Aloha Nui, Paul and Estrellita Jones conveyed a deep sense of these emotions, allowing wearers to carry a piece of Hawaii with them and relive the profound affection and longing that the islands inspire. The perfume serves as a fragrant reminder of the island's captivating allure and the strong, affectionate bonds formed with it.

Huapala:

The perfume Huapala was characterized as "romance itself captured in fragrance," aiming to embody the essence of deep, enchanting love. The name "Huapala" is derived from Hawaiian, where it means "a song or chant of praise" or "a melody of adoration." This term encapsulates the idea of expressing admiration and devotion through lyrical and heartfelt means.

In association with perfume, Huapala's name reflects the notion of fragrance as an emotional and sensory experience akin to a romantic serenade. Just as a song of praise can evoke powerful feelings and memories, Huapala was designed to capture the essence of romance in a bottle. The perfume’s intent was to translate the beauty and passion of Hawaiian romance into a scent that could evoke similar sentiments in those who wore it. The perfume was described as "young and fresh."

Hawaii’s rich cultural heritage includes a tradition of using music and chant to convey deep emotions and stories. The islands' enchanting landscapes and warm, welcoming spirit often inspire feelings of love and admiration. By naming the perfume Huapala, Paul and Estrellita Jones tapped into this cultural legacy, offering a fragrance that serves as a sensory homage to the romance and allure of Hawaii. The name suggests that the perfume itself is a tribute to the island's enchanting beauty, capturing the romantic essence of Hawaii in a way that resonates with the tradition of heartfelt expression found in Hawaiian culture.

Tropical Fruit:

The perfume Tropical Fruit was designed to evoke the lush, juicy essence of a tropical paradise, featuring a rich blend of fruity notes that embody the essence of Hawaii. To achieve this, the fragrance would likely include a selection of vibrant and aromatic ingredients that capture the diverse flavors of tropical fruits. Tropical Fruit, as a perfume, was described as "rich, ripe and satisfying."

Top notes in Tropical Fruit would deliver an immediate burst of freshness, beginning with pineapple. Its tangy, sweet aroma would create an invigorating opening, reminiscent of the tropical air in Hawaii. Mango, with its creamy and succulent sweetness, would follow, adding a touch of indulgence and depth. Passion fruit would contribute a unique tangy-sweet profile, blending citrus and floral nuances to enhance the tropical theme.

As the perfume settles, middle notes would take center stage, revealing the heart of the fragrance. Guava, known for its sweet and slightly tangy aroma, would add a tropical richness that enhances the initial fruitiness. Papaya would introduce a soft, musky sweetness, blending smoothly with the other fruity elements to create a well-rounded scent. Coconut, with its creamy and nutty character, would infuse the fragrance with a sun-kissed, exotic quality, reminiscent of Hawaiian beaches.

Base notes would provide depth and longevity to the perfume, anchoring the vibrant fruitiness with lasting impressions. Vanilla would add a warm, sweet undertone, creating a comforting, smooth finish that complements the tropical fruits. Musk would offer a subtle, sensual quality, ensuring that the fragrance endures and leaves a memorable trail.

The association of Tropical Fruit with Hawaii lies in its ability to capture the island’s bountiful fruit landscape and tropical ambiance. Hawaii’s rich array of tropical fruits, such as pineapple, mango, and passion fruit, are not only staples of the local cuisine but also integral to the island’s cultural identity. By encapsulating these scents in a perfume, Tropical Fruit provides a sensory escape to a sun-drenched paradise, celebrating the vibrant and exotic allure of Hawaii. The fragrance serves as a fragrant reminder of the island’s natural beauty and the indulgent pleasure of its tropical fruits.

Kiele:

The perfume Kiele was crafted to showcase the rich, heady scent of gardenia, with the name itself derived from Hawaiian, meaning "gardenia." This choice underscores the perfume’s focus on capturing the essence of this beloved flower, celebrated for its lush and intoxicating fragrance. The gardenia's scent, which is both sweet and slightly exotic, is a symbol of tropical elegance and beauty in Hawaii, often featured in leis and floral arrangements that reflect the island’s vibrant flora.

To achieve an authentic gardenia aroma, Kiele would incorporate a carefully balanced blend of natural essences. The fragrance would include doses of rose, jasmine, and orange to mirror the complex, multi-layered scent profile of gardenias. Rose and jasmine contribute to the depth and richness of the floral scent, while orange adds a hint of citrusy freshness. Tuberose and cassie further enhance the perfume with their lush, creamy notes, while daffodil introduces a touch of green, crisp clarity. Neroli and ylang-ylang provide additional layers of sweetness and warmth, rounding out the fragrance with their distinctive, exotic nuances.

By incorporating these natural essences, Kiele not only replicates the gardenia's fragrant profile but also evokes the lush, tropical beauty of Hawaii. The perfume becomes a sensory tribute to the island’s floral splendor, capturing the elegance and allure of gardenias amidst the broader context of Hawaii’s rich botanical landscape. Kiele thus offers a refined olfactory experience that transports wearers to the serene beauty of Hawaiian gardens, embodying the essence of this iconic flower and the island's enchanting atmosphere.

Pikake:

The perfume Pikake was designed to capture the essence of jasmine, with its name derived from the Hawaiian term for the flower itself. In Hawaiian, "pikake" refers to jasmine, particularly the type known as Jasminum sambac, which is cherished for its intoxicating and sweet fragrance. This choice of name highlights the perfume’s intent to embody the lush and heady aroma of jasmine, a flower that holds special significance in Hawaiian culture.

Jasmine is renowned for its rich, warm scent, which is both floral and slightly exotic. To authentically replicate this fragrance, Pikake would incorporate a blend of natural essences that mirror the complex profile of jasmine. The perfume would include jasmine itself as a primary note, providing the core of its lush, sweet aroma. Orange blossom adds a touch of citrusy brightness and softness, while cassie contributes a slightly spicy, floral nuance. Civet, with its deep, musky undertones, introduces a sensual, animalic richness that enhances the perfume’s depth. Orris and ambrette offer a smooth, powdery texture, balancing the floral intensity with a refined softness, while benzoin adds a hint of warmth and resinous sweetness. Neroli, with its bright, fresh quality, complements the jasmine and orange blossom, rounding out the fragrance with a subtle, citrusy touch.

In Hawaii, jasmine is often associated with beauty and grace, frequently used in leis and floral arrangements to convey a sense of elegance and aromatic richness. Pikake, as a fragrance, encapsulates the allure of jasmine, transporting wearers to the lush, fragrant gardens of the islands. By capturing the essence of this iconic flower, Pikake offers a sensory connection to Hawaii’s natural beauty, celebrating the elegance and charm of jasmine in a way that reflects the island’s vibrant floral heritage.

Pono Moi:

The perfume Pono Moi was crafted to capture the rich, heady scent of deep red carnations. The Hawaiian name "Pono Moi" translates to "exquisite" or "of highest quality," a fitting tribute to the complex and luxurious fragrance profile of this perfume. By naming the fragrance Pono Moi, the creators emphasized the superior quality and depth of the scent, which aims to evoke the lush, vibrant beauty of carnations. The perfume was described as "pungent carnation."

Carnations are renowned for their spicy, floral aroma, and capturing this scent authentically requires a blend of carefully selected natural essences. In Pono Moi, the heart of the fragrance would be dominated by the essence of carnation itself, providing a rich, spicy, and floral character. To enhance this core note, the perfume would include clove, which adds a warm, spicy edge, and a touch of little jasmine for a soft, delicate floral nuance. Jonquil, with its green, sweet undertones, complements the carnation’s spiciness, while orange blossom adds a touch of fresh, citrusy brightness.

The fragrance would also feature tolu, a resin that provides a warm, balsamic quality, and musk for a sensual depth. Benzoin adds a resinous sweetness, while ylang-ylang contributes a rich, exotic floral note. Rose geranium and patchouli introduce a green, earthy dimension, with pimento adding a subtle spicy kick. Neroli brings a fresh, citrusy lift, and rose adds a classic floral elegance. Isoeugenol, a compound found in carnations, would enhance the authenticity of the fragrance, while iris, vanilla, styrax, and sandalwood provide a soft, smooth base to round out the perfume and add depth.

In Hawaiian culture, the carnation is associated with beauty and significance, often used in leis and ceremonial decorations to signify respect and admiration. By encapsulating the scent of deep red carnations in Pono Moi, the fragrance reflects the richness and elegance of Hawaiian floral traditions. The perfume not only celebrates the carnation’s distinctive aroma but also connects wearers to the island’s vibrant floral heritage, offering a sensory experience that evokes the lush, tropical beauty of Hawaii.

White Ginger:

The perfume White Ginger was meticulously crafted to encapsulate the invigorating and spicy aroma of freshly grated ginger root. In Hawaiian, the white ginger flower is known as "Awapuhi," specifically referring to the Zingiber zerumbet species, which is also commonly called "shampoo ginger" due to its use in traditional Hawaiian hair care rituals. This choice of name highlights the perfume’s focus on capturing the vibrant and aromatic essence of ginger, a plant deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture and traditions.

The scent profile of White Ginger aims to reflect the complex and spicy character of ginger root. To achieve an authentic representation of this aroma, the perfume would feature a blend of natural essences. Ginger itself forms the core of the fragrance, offering a warm, spicy, and invigorating note. To enhance this primary scent, cardamom would be included for its sweet, aromatic spiciness, which complements and deepens the ginger's warmth. Clove adds a rich, warm spice, while galanga, a relative of ginger, introduces an additional layer of exotic, peppery zest.

Petitgrain, derived from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, brings a fresh, woody nuance that balances the spiciness with a green, citrusy edge. Lemon and orange contribute bright, tangy citrus notes that lighten the fragrance and add a lively, zesty contrast to the warmth of the ginger. Pineapple, with its sweet and tropical aroma, introduces a fruity, exotic touch that complements the spice and enriches the overall fragrance.

In Hawaiian culture, ginger is cherished not only for its culinary uses but also for its role in traditional practices and personal care. By encapsulating the essence of white ginger in White Ginger perfume, the fragrance pays homage to the plant's significance and evokes the vibrant, tropical ambiance of Hawaii. The perfume offers a sensory journey that mirrors the island’s lush landscapes and aromatic richness, celebrating the unique and invigorating scent of ginger root in a way that connects wearers to the spirit of Hawaii.

Lia Lani:

The fragrance Lia Lani embodies a sophisticated tribute to Hawaiian culture through its evocative name and scent profile. In Hawaiian, "Lia Lani" translates to "heavenly beauty" or "heavenly grace," a fitting designation for a perfume intended to capture the essence of exquisite elegance and ethereal charm.

The association of Lia Lani with Hawaii is deeply rooted in the island's cultural reverence for natural beauty and spiritual grace. The name reflects the islands' enchanting landscapes and the tranquil, almost otherworldly allure of the Hawaiian environment. By choosing a name that signifies "heavenly beauty," the fragrance evokes the serene and captivating qualities of the Hawaiian islands, aiming to transport the wearer to a place of sublime elegance and peace.

In crafting Lia Lani, the perfume likely drew inspiration from the lush and vibrant flora of Hawaii, incorporating delicate floral notes that resonate with the islands' natural beauty. This could include a blend of tropical flowers and lush greenery, capturing the essence of a Hawaiian paradise and enhancing the fragrance's ability to evoke a sense of grace and serenity.

The choice of the name Lia Lani not only honors the aesthetic and spiritual qualities associated with Hawaii but also aligns with the broader tradition of using evocative names in perfumery to convey specific emotions and experiences. Through this fragrance, Paul Jones and his collaborators paid homage to the enchanting allure of the Hawaiian islands, creating a scent that embodies both the physical beauty and the ethereal charm of paradise.

Honi Honi:

The fragrance Honi Honi captures the essence of Hawaiian culture with its evocative name and aromatic profile. In Hawaiian, "honi honi" translates to "kiss kiss" or "sweet kiss," reflecting a tender, affectionate gesture. This name is deeply symbolic, representing intimacy, warmth, and the gentle, loving touches that characterize personal connections and the spirit of aloha. The perfume was described as "gay, provocative."

In the context of perfume, Honi Honi would likely be crafted to evoke the sensory experience of a soft, cherished embrace. The fragrance might incorporate sweet, soothing notes that resonate with the idea of a tender kiss. This could include a blend of delicate florals, creamy vanilla, and soft, comforting musk, creating a scent that feels intimate and inviting, much like the affectionate gesture the name suggests.

The association with Hawaii is significant, as the islands are renowned for their warm, welcoming culture and emphasis on personal connections. The name Honi Honi reflects the Hawaiian values of aloha and ohana (family), embodying the warmth and friendliness that are central to the island experience. By choosing a name that evokes such a personal and affectionate gesture, the perfume aligns itself with the island's ethos of love and connection.

Overall, Honi Honi serves as a fragrant tribute to the emotional and cultural richness of Hawaii, capturing the essence of intimacy and warmth in a bottle. Its name and scent combine to offer a sensory experience that mirrors the affectionate and welcoming spirit of the Hawaiian islands.

Ua Lani:

The fragrance Ua Lani is named with a term that holds a special place in Hawaiian culture. In Hawaiian, "Ua Lani" translates to "Heavenly Mist" or "Heavenly Rain," reflecting a sense of ethereal beauty and tranquility. This evocative name suggests a fragrance that captures the delicate, refreshing quality of mist or rain as it graces a heavenly landscape.

In the context of perfume, Ua Lani would likely embody the light, airy qualities of mist or rain, incorporating subtle and soothing notes that evoke the serenity of a gentle rainfall. The scent profile for such a fragrance might include fresh, dewy elements like light florals, soft citrus, or crisp green notes. These ingredients would combine to create an impression of freshness and purity, akin to the rejuvenating touch of a rain shower in a tropical paradise.

The association with Hawaii is particularly meaningful. The islands are known for their lush, verdant landscapes, which are nourished by regular, gentle rains that contribute to their stunning natural beauty. By invoking the imagery of "heavenly rain," Ua Lani connects the fragrance to the serene and rejuvenating aspects of Hawaiian nature. It captures the essence of the island's atmospheric quality, where rain often brings a sense of renewal and tranquility to the lush environment.

Overall, Ua Lani embodies the delicate, refreshing spirit of Hawaiian rain, offering a scent experience that mirrors the calming and beautiful essence of the islands. The fragrance not only reflects the natural beauty of Hawaii but also evokes the serene and restorative qualities associated with its misty rain showers.

A Night To Remember:

In 1941, Paul Jones introduced the perfume A Night to Remember, a fragrance meticulously crafted to capture the essence of Hawaiian flowers and inspired by Don Blanding's play of the same name. The perfume's creation was a tribute to both the rich floral diversity of Hawaii and Blanding's evocative work, blending artistic and cultural inspirations into a single olfactory experience.

Don Blanding, a celebrated writer and poet renowned for his vivid descriptions of Hawaiian life, had penned a play titled A Night to Remember, which celebrated the enchanting and romantic aspects of the islands. The perfume, in turn, sought to embody these themes through its composition. A Night to Remember was designed to evoke the lush, exotic beauty of Hawaii's flora, offering a fragrance that could transport its wearer to an evening under the stars in a tropical paradise.

The scent of A Night to Remember featured a rich bouquet of Hawaiian flowers, each chosen for its ability to evoke the vivid sensory experiences of the islands. The perfume would likely have included notes from iconic Hawaiian blooms such as plumeria, gardenia, and hibiscus. These flowers are known for their heady, exotic fragrances, which can capture the romantic and tropical allure of a Hawaiian evening. The perfume’s composition aimed to blend these floral elements into a harmonious and captivating scent profile, reflecting the lush, vibrant environment of the islands.

By drawing on the themes of Blanding's play and the natural beauty of Hawaii, A Night to Remember presented a sensory experience that combined artistic inspiration with the enchanting allure of Hawaiian flora. The perfume offered a way for enthusiasts to connect with the romantic, tropical spirit of the islands, encapsulating the essence of a magical Hawaiian night in every drop.

Pine Cones from Carmel:

The masculine fragrance Pine Cones from Carmel was a distinctive offering from Paul Jones, tailored to capture the essence of rugged, natural landscapes through a blend of earthy and woody notes. This unique scent combined the mingled fragrances of sage, leather, tobacco, new mown hay, pine needles, sycamore leaves, resin, and wood fires, evoking a rich, multisensory experience. The name of the perfume was inspired by the Pine Cone, a publication from Carmel, where Don Blanding wrote his evocative "Vagabond's House" columns. The fragrance thus pays homage to the natural beauty and literary charm of Carmel, reflecting both the setting of Blanding’s writing and the sensory allure of the region.

In Hawaiian, pine cones are known as "Puhala," although it is worth noting that Hawaii does not have native pine trees, and pine cones are not commonly associated with the islands’ flora. The scent of pine cones, however, carries a universal appeal that transcends geographic boundaries. The crisp, resinous aroma of pine needles and wood fires, mingled with earthy notes of sage and leather, offers a nostalgic connection to the outdoors. This evocative blend resonates with the tranquil and expansive beauty of natural landscapes, making it a compelling choice for those who appreciate the rugged charm of wilderness scents.

Carmel, located on the picturesque coast of California, is renowned for its stunning natural surroundings, including its lush pine forests and serene ambiance. The pine cones from this region are symbolic of the rustic, unspoiled beauty that characterizes Carmel’s landscape. The allure of these pine cones as a scent lies in their ability to evoke the fresh, clean, and invigorating atmosphere of forested areas. By incorporating these elements into Pine Cones from Carmel, Paul Jones captured a piece of Carmel's essence, offering a fragrance that appeals to those with a penchant for nature and a connection to the literary and cultural heritage of the area.

Paradise, Seaward & Unconquered:

Cecil B. DeMille, the legendary filmmaker known for his grandiose and visually spectacular productions, sought to extend his influence into the world of fragrances, commissioning Paul Jones to create a series of bespoke perfumes. The first of these was named after DeMille’s famed ranch, "Paradise." This geranium based perfume was intended to encapsulate the idyllic and luxurious essence of his sprawling estate, reflecting the opulence and tranquility associated with his personal haven. The successful result of this initial commission set the stage for further collaborations between DeMille and Jones.

Pleased with the perfume named "Paradise," DeMille then requested Jones to craft another fragrance, this time named "Seaward," in homage to his yacht. The name "Seaward" evoked images of the open sea and the sense of freedom and adventure associated with ocean voyages. The fragrance would likely have been designed to reflect the fresh, invigorating qualities of sea breezes, capturing the essence of maritime exploration and luxury.

In addition to these personalized scents, DeMille also envisioned a perfume that would embody the atmosphere of his forthcoming film, "Unconquered," set to be released in 1937. This film, known for its sweeping historical drama and grand cinematic scope, inspired DeMille to request a fragrance that would capture its spirit. The perfume would have been crafted to evoke the dramatic and adventurous themes of the film, translating its historical and epic elements into a sensory experience. Packaged in an elegant crimson box lined with chartreuse and accented with black, the presentation was as dramatic as one of DeMille's epic films. Estrellita Jones played a crucial role in designing these containers, ensuring that each detail reflected the sophisticated and exotic nature of the perfume within.

Through these commissions, Paul Jones not only showcased his ability to create fragrances that reflected the personal tastes and themes of his clients but also extended his artistry into the realm of cinema and high society. Each perfume, from "Paradise" to "Seaward" and "Unconquered," was tailored to embody the distinct qualities and aspirations associated with DeMille’s various interests and projects, demonstrating Jones’s skill in translating visual and experiential concepts into olfactory masterpieces.

 

"The Hawaiian flowers, ginger, white ginger and a blend of several into a "lei" perfume, offer a delightful range of new scents, of haunting memories to leave behind or to let drift across the room as one enters."

Here is a gorgeous Czech crystal bottle for Huapala perfume. The base of the bottle has stenciled in white "Czechoslovakia" and also is marked "Ingrid". This fancy designed bottle features sunbursts, palm trees, and sailboats. Bottle measures approx. 5 3/4" h x 2 1/2" w x 1 1/4" d. Stopper has a long glass dauber.

  

Spectacular by Joan Collins c1989

The year 1989 marked a period of significant cultural and social shifts, with the vibrant excesses of the 1980s giving way to the promise of a new decade. The 1980s were characterized by a bold, extravagant style, reflected in fashion, music, and media. The era celebrated opulence, power dressing, and larger-than-life personalities, all of which were encapsulated by the television series "Dynasty," where actress Joan Collins starred as the glamorous and ruthless Alexis Carrington. This context of opulence and dramatic flair is crucial in understanding the launch of Joan Collins' perfume, "Spectacular," in association with Parlux SA.

Joan Collins' decision to name her perfume "Spectacular" likely stems from her persona both on and off the screen. The name "Spectacular" resonates with the grandeur and sophistication that Collins herself embodied. The term suggests something extraordinary and eye-catching, aligning perfectly with the luxurious and theatrical image she portrayed. As an actress who epitomized the glamorous and assertive woman of the 1980s, Collins' choice of the name reflects her desire to offer a fragrance that embodies the same level of drama and elegance.

"Spectacular" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it suggests a scent that stands out and makes a statement. It conjures images of brilliance and magnificence, implying that the wearer will leave a lasting impression. The word itself evokes a sense of wonder and admiration, promising an experience that is anything but ordinary. A fragrance with such a name would appeal to women who see themselves as confident, bold, and unapologetically glamorous. These women would likely relate to the perfume as an extension of their personality, using it to enhance their presence and allure.

Holzman & Stephanie Perfumes Ltd

Holzman & Stephanie Perfumes Ltd. is a notable name in the fragrance industry with a history rooted in high-quality perfume production. Here's a detailed overview:

Background and History

Holzman & Stephanie Perfumes Ltd. was a perfume house known for its contributions to the fragrance market, particularly in the mid-20th century. While specific historical details about the company are somewhat limited, its name suggests a collaboration between the Holzman and Stephanie families or individuals, indicating a possible legacy of expertise and tradition in perfumery.

Fragrance Legacy

The company gained prominence for producing sophisticated and luxurious fragrances. One of their notable creations was La Parisienne, launched in 1989. This perfume was classified as a fresh aldehydic floral fragrance for women, specifically developed for the sophisticated women of Lake Forest. The fragrance was conceived to capture the elegance and refinement associated with the estate of the Holzman family, underscoring the company's commitment to high-quality, evocative scents.

Perfume Design and Presentation

Holzman & Stephanie Perfumes Ltd. was known for elegant and refined packaging. Their bottles were often crafted by prestigious glassmakers such as Pochet et du Courval, ensuring that the presentation matched the high standards of the fragrance itself. These bottles were typically characterized by their meticulous craftsmanship and sophisticated designs, reflecting the luxury and quality of the perfumes they contained.

Market Position

The company positioned itself as a producer of high-end, artisanal fragrances, appealing to a discerning clientele seeking unique and memorable scents. Their perfumes were crafted with premium ingredients and a keen attention to detail, aiming to offer an elevated olfactory experience.

In summary, Holzman & Stephanie Perfumes Ltd. is remembered for its elegant fragrances and high-quality craftsmanship. Their contributions to the perfume industry, particularly with creations like La Parisienne, underscore their commitment to luxury and refinement in the world of perfumery.

Fleur d’Eau by Rochas c1996

Fleur d’Eau by Rochas was launched in 1996, a time marked by significant cultural and economic shifts. The mid-90s saw a surge in technological advancements, globalization, and a renewed focus on environmental consciousness. The fashion and beauty industries were influenced by minimalist aesthetics and natural themes, reflecting a desire for simplicity and purity. This era also witnessed the rise of the empowered, independent woman who embraced individuality and sophistication.

The name "Fleur d’Eau," which translates to "Water Flower" in English, was chosen to evoke a sense of freshness, delicacy, and purity. Water lilies, lotus flowers, and other aquatic blooms typically inspire this name, symbolizing tranquility and natural beauty. The concept of a "Water Flower" refers to flowers that grow in or near water, thriving in serene, pristine environments. This association with water also implies a sense of fluidity, grace, and a connection to nature's calming elements.

"Fleur d’Eau" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the essence of freshness and natural beauty, appealing to those who seek a light, refreshing scent. It suggests a fragrance that is both ethereal and invigorating, perfect for women who appreciate understated elegance and a touch of nature in their everyday lives. The name itself conjures images of serene water gardens, delicate blossoms floating on the surface, and the gentle ripples of a calm pond.

The type of woman who would be drawn to a fragrance called "Fleur d’Eau" is likely one who values simplicity and grace. She is sophisticated, yet unpretentious, and finds beauty in the natural world. This woman is confident in her individuality and prefers a fragrance that enhances her presence without overwhelming it. She would respond to "Fleur d’Eau" as a breath of fresh air, a scent that aligns with her refined tastes and complements her elegant lifestyle.

Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli c1928

In 1928, Prince Georges Matchabelli unveiled "Princess Norina," a perfume born from his deep affection and admiration for his wife, Norina. The context of this time period was marked by a fascination with romance and elegance, reflecting the enduring allure of royalty and aristocracy in society. It was an era when fragrances were not merely scents but also expressions of personal stories and aspirations.

Prince Matchabelli's choice of the name "Princess Norina" for the perfume was deeply personal and symbolic. By naming the fragrance after his wife, he sought to immortalize her grace, beauty, and perhaps the regal qualities he admired in her. "Princess Norina" evokes an image of refinement, sophistication, and a touch of fairy-tale allure, appealing to those who appreciated romance and glamour.

For consumers of the time, the name "Princess Norina" would have resonated with notions of aristocratic elegance and romantic ideals. It would likely have attracted those who sought to embody or admire the qualities associated with royalty – elegance, poise, and a hint of mystery. The perfume itself would have been perceived as a tribute to enduring love and refined taste, appealing to those who appreciated luxurious fragrances with a narrative behind them.

The name "Princess Norina" conjures images of grandeur, courtly elegance, and the timeless allure of royalty. It suggests a fragrance that is both delicate and commanding, evoking feelings of admiration, romance, and sophistication. Those who encountered "Princess Norina" would have likely been captivated by its romantic narrative and the promise of experiencing a scent that embodies the essence of a beloved princess – graceful, enchanting, and eternally captivating.

Profumeria GRA CAR

"Gra-Car" is a unique liqueur produced by the monastery of Certosa di Pavia in Lombardy, Italy. This ancient monastery is renowned for making the famed Chartreuse liqueur, which is marketed under the name Gra-Car. Historically, the monastery's laboratory served multiple purposes: it functioned as a pharmacy (Pharmacia) and a perfumery (Profumeria) alongside the liqueur distillery. Over time, the distillery expanded and now fully occupies the space that once housed the laboratory.

A 1911 advertisement for Gra-Car highlights the storied history of the monastery's pharmacy, which was relocated in 1765 to the Great Court of Honor facing the Temple. This advertisement mentions that the pharmacy houses the Gra-Car Liqueur and Perfume Factory (GRAtiarum-CARthusia-Certosa de le Grazie). The monastery's special liqueur, known as Chartreuse, comes in various flavors such as yellow, green, and coffee. The ad also lists the perfumes produced by the monastery, including scents like Violet, Calycanthus (an exclusive specialty), Jasmine, and Rose, as well as various toilet waters and lotions of the same fragrances.

The monks of Certosa di Pavia engaged potteries like Ginori to create both large and small decorative bottles for their liqueur. The most attractive bottles were intended for tourists, while smaller bottles were designed to be easily packed into suitcases and bags, making them convenient souvenirs.

In the 1965 book "Montagne meravigliose: 13 tavole in fotocolor dell'autore" by Severino Casara, it is noted that the Carthusian fathers were not only involved in liqueur production but also in crafting delicate perfumes. These perfumes were made from essences extracted from mountain flowers, with the distillery situated in Fourvoirie, a short distance from the monastery.

An article from Harper's Bazaar in 1930 titled "Monastic Fragrances" introduces readers to the exquisite flower essences produced by the Gra Car profumi. These fragrances, made from secret formulas handed down through generations of monks, come directly from the beautiful old Carthusian monastery of Certosa di Pavia. The article illustrates two of these delightful scents, Mughuetto (Lily of the Valley), and Ciclamino (Cyclamen,) housed in charming little amphorae.

The perfumes of Gra Car:

• Mughuetto (Lily of the Valley)
• Gelsomino (Jasmine)
• Ciclamino (Cyclamen)
• Violetta (Violet)
• Rosa (Rose)
• Calycanthus
• Acqua di Lavanda (Lavender)
• Acqua di Pavia

Please see attached photo for image of ad. I have also included a 1925 ad as well.

Parfums de Choisy

Parfums de Choisy, the perfume company from Paris, indeed launched a small range of perfumes during the 1930s. Despite sharing a similar name with Choisy le Roy, the famous glassmakers, these two entities were distinct in their products and industries. Parfums de Choisy capitalized on Paris's reputation as a center for luxury and fashion, offering fragrances that likely reflected the trends and styles of the time. This period marked a vibrant era for French perfumery, with many houses competing to create distinctive scents that appealed to the fashionable elite.

Chaldee by Jean Patou c1927

In the vibrant cultural landscape of the late 1920s, Jean Patou's introduction of Huile de Chaldee marked a pivotal moment in the convergence of perfume and sun tanning trends. Influenced by the bronzed allure of figures like Coco Chanel and Josephine Baker, whose celebrated tans symbolized health and leisure, sunbathing became a fashionable pursuit among the elite. Patou, recognizing the burgeoning desire for sun-kissed skin without the drawbacks of sunburn, innovated with Huile de Chaldee. Named after the ancient region of Chaldea in Babylonia, renowned for its legendary beauties with amber-toned skin, the sun oil not only protected but also enhanced the bronzing effect, setting a new standard in skincare and aesthetics.

The French word "Chaldee," translating to "Chaldea" in English, carried layers of historical and exotic connotations. Patou's decision to name both the sun oil and later the perfume "Chaldee" was deliberate. It evoked images of ancient sophistication and beauty ideals, appealing to the imaginations of women of the time who sought luxury and adventure in their pursuit of glamour. Henri Almeras, Patou's in-house perfumer, infused the perfume Chaldee with a sensuous blend of orange blossom, hyacinth, jasmine, daffodil, vanilla, narcissus, opoponax, amber, spices, and lily of the valley, creating an olfactory journey that mirrored the warmth and allure associated with sun-kissed skin.

Elton John Auction!

Musician Elton John has recently launched an eBay seller account named Rocket Man Resale, where he is offering a substantial portion of his personal collection of designer clothing for sale. I’m especially excited about some standout items, such as the Donatella Versace handbag and the provocative Gucci "Suck Me" loafers. These unique pieces reflect Elton John’s eclectic and bold fashion sense, making this sale even more intriguing.

The proceeds from this endeavor will support his Elton John AIDS Foundation, a cause that demonstrates his ongoing commitment to philanthropy and social responsibility. I find this initiative particularly commendable and plan to keep a close eye on his listings, hoping that he might eventually include items from his personal collection of perfume or cologne bottles. 

If you’re interested in browsing the items he has put up for sale, you can visit his eBay store to see the unique and stylish pieces available.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE ELTON JOHN COLLECTION ON EBAY

Jardin de Soleil by Escada c1996

Launching a perfume alongside a fashion line was a savvy move by Escada in 1999. The late 1990s were a time of bold experimentation and boundary-pushing in both fashion and fragrance. This period saw the rise of luxury brands expanding their portfolios to include fragrances, recognizing the potent connection between scent and style.

Escada's decision to create a perfume specifically tailored to complement its fashion line reflects the era's trend of fashion houses leveraging their brand identity across various product lines. This strategy aimed to offer consumers a cohesive sensory experience, allowing them to immerse themselves fully in the brand's aesthetic.

The launch of Jardin de Soleil in 1999 coincided with a fashion landscape characterized by vibrant colors, playful patterns, and a celebration of femininity. The perfume's name, meaning "Garden of Sun," evokes images of warmth, brightness, and natural beauty, aligning perfectly with the carefree spirit of summer fashion.

In terms of scent composition, Jardin de Soleil's blend of floral notes like wild rose leaves, crocus, pink lily of the valley, and narcissus, combined with fruity undertones of peach apricot, encapsulates the essence of a blooming garden in full sunlight. The addition of a woody base adds depth and complexity, balancing the fragrance's sweetness with a touch of earthiness.

Sophie Labbé’s expertise in creating complex and layered fragrances is evident in Jardin de Soleil. Known for her ability to blend diverse notes into harmonious compositions, Labbé's work on this perfume showcases her talent for evoking emotions and imagery through scent. Her creation of Jardin de Soleil not only captures the essence of a summer garden but also aligns perfectly with the fashion trends of the time, making the fragrance a timeless reflection of late 1990s style.

In summary, the launch of Jardin de Soleil by Escada in 1999, created by Sophie Labbé, was a strategic and innovative move in the world of high fashion. The perfume's design, mirroring the vibrant and eclectic trends of the era, provided a perfect complement to Escada’s fashion line, offering consumers a complete and immersive brand experience.

Guili Guili by Vigny c1926

In 1926, the launch of Guili-Guili by Vigny coincided with a time when Western fascination with exoticism, particularly from Africa and Egypt, was at its peak. This period, often referred to as the height of Orientalism, saw European artists, writers, and designers drawing inspiration from the mystique and allure of distant lands. Egypt, with its ancient history and mysterious culture, held a special place in the Western imagination, fueled by archaeological discoveries and fantastical tales of magic and illusionists like Guili-Guili.

"Guili-Guili" itself is derived from the name of the Egyptian illusionist who captivated audiences with his extravagant performances. The name itself is playful and rhythmic, evoking a sense of mystery and exoticism. Vigny, in choosing this name, would have aimed to capitalize on the allure and fascination associated with Egypt and its mystical past.

For women of the time, a perfume named "Guili-Guili" would have promised an escape into a world of enchantment and intrigue. The name suggests a fragrance that is whimsical, perhaps with floral or spicy notes evoking the warmth and exoticism of North Africa. Women would have responded positively to such a perfume, seeking to embody the allure and sophistication associated with the mysterious East.

The word "Guili-Guili" conjures images of vibrant colors, shimmering sands, and the exotic aroma of spices and flowers. It evokes emotions of curiosity, excitement, and a longing for adventure. As a perfume name, it stands out for its uniqueness and ability to transport wearers to a world far beyond their everyday experiences.

Interpreted in the context of its time, "Guili-Guili" would have symbolized the allure of the unknown, tapping into the fascination with Egypt and its ancient mystique. It represents a clever marketing choice, appealing to consumers' desire for luxury and exoticism during a period marked by cultural exploration and discovery.

Guili-Guili:

Guili-Guili, the inspiration behind the perfume by Vigny launched in 1932, was a charismatic and enigmatic figure in the world of magic and illusion. Originally from Alexandria, Egypt, he gained fame as a magician known for his elaborate performances and exotic persona. Often mistaken for Luxor Gali-Gali, (Mahgoub Mohammed Hanafi, b1902-b1984), another renowned magician of the time, Guili-Guili distinguished himself with an intriguing backstory claiming he was 25,000 years old, a detail that added to his mystique. His performances, characterized by his Egyptian attire, featured a repertoire of mesmerizing tricks such as making eggs and chicks disappear, culminating in theatrical feats like producing a string of flags from his mouth.

Guili-Guili's first foray into the United States in 1926 marked a pivotal moment in his career. Invited by Mrs. Vincent Astor, a prominent socialite, he was flown from Paris to New York City at her expense to entertain her guests for a single night. His performance was so captivating that Mrs. Astor rewarded him generously with a $5,000 honorarium and an additional $1,000 bonus, reflecting his allure and the esteem in which he was held among the elite.

After spending 26 years in Paris, Guili-Guili eventually settled in Brooklyn, New York, where he became a naturalized U.S. citizen. During World War II, he dedicated three years to touring the United States, entertaining troops stationed across the country. His quote, "Mystery is what makes life worth living," as cited in a 1946 article in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, encapsulates his philosophy and the essence of his performances, which thrived on the allure of the unknown and the fantastical.

In essence, the perfume "Guili-Guili" by Vigny captured the essence of this magical persona, offering wearers a scent that embodied the exotic charm and mystery associated with Egypt and its illustrious illusionist. The fragrance likely aimed to evoke the same sense of wonder and fascination that Guili-Guili brought to his audiences, making it a fitting homage to a figure whose life was as captivating as his performances.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody oriental (amber) fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, almond, cassie, mandarin
• Middle notes: carnation, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose
• Base notes: ambergris, mahogany, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, musk, civet, tonka bean, labdanum, incense, myrrh

Guili-Guili, classified as a woody oriental (amber) fragrance for women, encompassed a captivating blend of ingredients that embodied its exotic and mysterious allure. While the exact composition details are not fully known, it is believed to have featured a rich combination of neroli, bergamot, almond, cassie, mandarin in the top notes, creating a vibrant and citrusy introduction reminiscent of Mediterranean orchards. The heart notes likely included carnation, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, gardenia, and tuberose, infusing the fragrance with a lush floral bouquet that evoked the essence of a North African garden in full bloom. At its base, Guili-Guili would have been anchored by ambergris, mahogany, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, musk, civet, tonka bean, labdanum, incense, and myrrh, lending depth and warmth to the scent profile. This complex blend would have enveloped its wearer in a luxurious and evocative aura, capturing the spirit of adventure and enchantment that defined its era.

Scent Story:

As you enter the reception hall, the scent of neroli and bergamot greets you, refreshing and citrusy, mingling with the sweet almond and mandarin notes that hang in the air like the promise of an exotic feast. Large brass plates, resting elegantly on carved mahogany stands, are adorned with Jordanian almonds, offering a rich, nutty aroma that invites you to indulge in their earthy sweetness.

Amidst the lush bouquets of flowers on each table, the bronze-skinned serving girls glide by in striped tunics, their belts adorned with coins that chime softly with every graceful movement. The hall is infused with the intoxicating scent of carnation, orange blossom, and jasmine, mingling with tuberose and gardenia, creating an atmosphere that feels both opulent and inviting.

Incense wafts from brass braziers, filling the air with the warm, resinous notes of myrrh and labdanum. Sandalwood fans, delicately pierced and handed out to guests, carry the smoky aroma as they sway gently in your hand. The hall resonates with the spicy richness of cedar and vetiver, wrapped in the comforting warmth of patchouli and vanilla, creating a sensory tapestry that mirrors the vibrant hues of the tapestries adorning the walls.

As guests settle onto plush cushions around the large brass tables, their hands are sprinkled with orange blossom and rosewater, a delicate gesture that enhances the sensory experience. The evening unfolds with the mesmerizing movements of bellydancers, their silks swirling in vibrant patterns to the rhythmic beats that echo through the hall.

Amidst the spectacle, Guili-Guili takes the stage, his presence enigmatic and commanding. The base notes of ambergris and musk weave through the air, blending with the sensuous allure of civet and tonka bean. The perfume, "Guili-Guili," subtitled "Parfum des Tropiques," captures the essence of this exotic evening—a blend of mystery, elegance, and enchantment that lingers long after the last dance fades into the night.

Bottle:

Guili-Guili, subtitled "Tropical God of Good Fortune," promised an intriguing fragrance that added a new charm to the world of perfumery. Evoking a sense of exoticism and mystique, this perfume captured the essence of a tropical paradise where every scent note seemed to weave a tale of adventure and prosperity. The subtitle reflected its aspiration to bring luck and allure to those who wore it, embodying the spirit of a deity bestowing blessings in the form of a luxurious fragrance experience. With its blend of exotic ingredients and captivating aroma, Guili-Guili invited wearers to embrace a world of sophistication and enchantment, making it a coveted addition to any perfume collection during its time.

Illustrirte Zeitung, 1928:

"For the autumn examination, three senior students present the new novelty in perfume: Following the universally beloved Golliwogg, renowned perfumer Vigny from Paris, located on Rue St. Honoré, introduces another delightful surprise. Guili-Guili, a tropical fragrance and fetish of the Negro, brings the mysteries of Africa to the lady's dressing table. This novelty is expected to quickly captivate the world of women."

The bottle designed for "Guili-Guili" by Vigny in 1926 was a testament to both craftsmanship and thematic resonance. Standing at 6.25 inches tall, its design was meticulously crafted to embody the essence of luxury and exoticism. The bottle featured a head and foot made from carved mahogany, a choice that added a layer of richness and sophistication. The head of the bottle, resembling an African mask, covered the inner stopper, while the mahogany foot provided stability for the colorless crystal vessel to stand upright.

The decision to use mahogany was deliberate, reflecting the material's associations with quality, elegance, and cultural intrigue. While mahogany itself does not originate from Egypt, its use in decorative arts during this era often evoked a sense of exoticism and adventure. In the case of "Guili-Guili," the choice of mahogany may have been intended to enhance the perfume's narrative, aligning it with the fascination of Western audiences for the mystique of Africa and its distant cultures.

By incorporating an African mask motif into the bottle's design, Vigny not only created a visually striking container but also infused it with symbolic meaning. The mask symbolized mystery and tradition, aligning with the persona of Guili-Guili, the illusionist from Alexandria, Egypt, whose performances captivated audiences with their exotic flair. Thus, the use of mahogany in the bottle's construction not only served practical purposes but also contributed to the perfume's overall narrative, enhancing its appeal as a luxurious and culturally resonant fragrance.

Cylindrical "Wartime" Bottle:

Starting around 1936-1937, Vigny transitioned to using plain bottles for their perfumes. These cylindrical crystal bottles featured disk-shaped ground glass stoppers and were manufactured in France by Baccarat. The cylindrical crystal bottle shown in the 1939 ad below illustrates the plain version of Guili-Guili, complete with its associated symbol on the label. Known as Baccarat model #524, these bottles were used at least from 1937 until 1947. Vigny issued explanations in newspaper ads, noting that due to the outbreak of World War II, they were unable to access the necessary materials for their deluxe bottles. 

Curiously, the luxurious mahogany-topped bottles were discontinued as they were no longer available to Vigny as early as 1936. 

The use of the plain Baccarat bottles were utilized at the same time as the "grenade" bottles in 1937. This period of transition highlights the impact of global events on the production and availability of luxury goods, as well as the adaptability of Vigny in maintaining their brand's presence during challenging times.

Grenade Bottle:

For those unable to afford the luxurious mahogany-topped deluxe bottle, Guili-Guili was also offered in more affordable options, such as the "grenade" bottles used for other Vigny fragrances. These bottles, produced by Verreries Brosse from about 1937 to the 1960s, are ovoid in shape with a distinctive puffed windowpane pattern resembling a grenade. The stoppers feature the same pattern with a flat, highly polished top, available in various materials including glass, plastic, and brass screw caps for mini bottles. The "grenade" bottles housed a range of products including parfum, eau de toilette, lotion, and eau de cologne, with sizes ranging from micro mini bottles at 0.18 oz (5.32ml) to larger options like the 16 oz (480ml) eau de cologne bottle. These bottles are prized among collectors for their unique design and historical significance within the perfume industry.

• 0.18 oz (also listed as 5/28 oz or 5.32ml) Parfum stands 1.75" tall  (considered the micro mini bottle has plastic screw cap)
• 5/16 oz (9.24ml, also listed as 1/4 oz) - Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 5/8 oz (18ml) - Parfum  bottle stands 2.87" tall 
• 1/4 oz (also listed as 2/7 oz, 8ml)  Parfum bottle stands 
• 1/2 oz (15ml) Parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall
• 1 oz (30ml) Parfum bottle stands 3" tall.
• stands 3.25" tall.
• 2 oz Eau de Cologne stands 3.75" tall.
• 4 oz Eau de Cologne bottle stands 4.75" tall.
• 8 oz Eau de Cologne bottle stands 5.75" tall.
• 16 oz Eau de Cologne bottle stands 9" tall.
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall
• 2 oz Lotion bottle stands 3.75" tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Unfortunately, despite its initial allure and cultural resonance, the perfume Guili-Guili by Vigny was eventually discontinued. The parfum in the distinctive mahogany-topped bottle was discontinued in 1937. However, the eau de cologne version remained available in the "grenade" bottle until as late as 1949. This shift was likely influenced by changing trends in perfumery, economic challenges following World War II, and evolving consumer preferences towards lighter fragrances. Guili-Guili, with its exotic name and evocative scent profile, remains a nostalgic memory of a time when perfumes were meticulously crafted with cultural inspiration and artistic flair.

Today, the striking mahogany-topped bottles of Guili-Guili's perfume are highly sought after and exceedingly rare. Collectors are advised to seize any opportunity to acquire them, though they should be prepared for exorbitant prices due to their scarcity. These bottles have become prized possessions among perfume aficionados, symbolizing not just a fragrance but a piece of history and craftsmanship from a bygone era. Their elusive nature only adds to their allure, making them a coveted treasure for those fortunate enough to add them to their collection.

L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Attention Collectors! Caron Baccarat Perfume Fountain for Sale

Attention Collectors! You've heard of those gorgeous Baccarat crystal perfume urns or perfume fountains at Caron, right? Now is your lucky chance to finally own one!

A Little Background:

Step into the haute couture of Paris' fragrance boutiques with Parfums Caron, Montaigne. This luxe boutique showcases the Haute Parfumerie, featuring the glittering "Les Fontaines Baccarat" crystal and ormolu urns in the sumptuous "Louis XVI" style. Originally filled with one of Caron's six iconic perfumes, customers could have their chosen scent decanted into an elegant flacon. These gleaming urns contained exclusive, in-store-only parfums, once lost and discontinued, but revived as some of Caron's finest compositions.

The ritual of filling a perfume bottle from the fountain preserves the rich heritage of these perfumes. The parfums are collected from small bronze taps into bottles of all sizes, which are then adorned with an antique-style golden braid. Typically, the urns measure 18.5" tall (with lid) x 7" wide and have an 8" diameter. The square base measures 5" x 5" and is acid-stamped with the Baccarat logo.

In the New York Caron boutique, 12 Caron fountains modeled after those in the Paris boutique sold perfume by volume (7.5 milliliters for $80; 200 milliliters for $500). A full urn in Paris, priced at around $10,000 in 2000, equals approximately $18,575.12 in 2024. By 2009, a fountain containing perfume would set you back $25,000, equivalent to $37,125.08 in 2024.

I was just notified that one of these fabulous treasures is up for sale. This example, once containing the lovely perfume En Avion, boasts an exquisite ormolu plaque on the front. Normally, these urns have the name painted directly onto the glass, making this example even more special.

These Baccarat urns DO NOT come up for sale very often. Don’t miss your chance to own a piece of perfume history! In 2015, an empty urn, even without its lid and in chipped and damaged condition, sold for $4,000 (equal to $5,366.51 in 2024). Get it before someone else does!

Get it on Ebay

 

Souvenir d'un Soir by Mary Chess c1956

"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess, launched in 1956, carries with it an air of nostalgia and romance from its very name. The phrase, which translates from French to "Memory of an Evening," evokes a sense of wistful reflection on a singular, enchanting moment, possibly an unforgettable night filled with intrigue, romance, or personal significance. The use of French in the name imbues the fragrance with a European sophistication and allure, a common marketing approach in post-war America, where French culture and fashion were seen as the epitome of elegance and refinement.

The imagery conjured by "Souvenir d'un Soir" is delicate yet profound. It brings to mind an evening gown, the sound of soft music playing in a dimly lit room, and the sparkle of chandeliers reflecting in champagne glasses. It speaks of fleeting beauty, the mystery of twilight, and the emotions of a moment suspended in time. The word "souvenir" suggests that this fragrance is not just an aroma but a keepsake—a way to preserve the memories of a special night. The idea of capturing such emotions in a scent gives the fragrance a personal, intimate appeal, as if one could bottle the very essence of a cherished evening.

In terms of scent, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would likely be interpreted as something ephemeral yet striking. As an aldehydic floral fragrance, it would open with that characteristic aldehydic sparkle—dry, crisp, and slightly metallic. Aldehydes bring a freshness, often described as brisk or champagne-like, which immediately sets the tone of elegance and cool detachment. These top notes would likely give way to a heart filled with classic florals, likely including roses and jasmine, which could suggest the classic glamour of the time. The "dry" quality of the fragrance points to an almost powdery or restrained floral bouquet, where sweetness is tempered by a more mature, sophisticated dryness that mirrors the fleeting nature of a memory. The briskness would evoke an energy, a fleeting sharpness that dissipates quickly, leaving behind a softer, lingering floral essence.

Fleurs Precieuse by Caron c1910

Fleurs Precieuse by Caron, launched in 1910, is often misunderstood as a single fragrance. In reality, it was a collection named "Les Fleurs Precieuses," encompassing three distinct floral fragrances: Violette Precieuse, Rose Precieuse, and Jacinthe Precieuse. These exquisite scents were crafted by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff, who brought his expertise to the creation of these luxurious fragrances.

An advertisement from 1913 highlights that these fragrances were elegantly presented in "artistic opaque bottles," emphasizing their refined and artistic packaging, which added to their allure. This collection not only showcased Caron's commitment to high-quality perfumery but also their dedication to artistic presentation, making "Les Fleurs Precieuses" a memorable and cherished part of Caron's storied history.

Grossmith London

This comprehensive portfolio of Grossmith, founded in 1835, is a quintessential example of a heritage perfume house that has built a lasting legacy in the world of luxurious fragrances and high-quality soaps. Renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and dedication to quality, Grossmith has been a beacon of excellence in perfumery for generations.

The company's journey began in the 19th century, during a time when the art of fragrance creation was gaining prominence. Grossmith quickly distinguished itself with its intricate and sophisticated scents, which appealed to the discerning tastes of the elite. The brand's commitment to using the finest ingredients and traditional methods has been a cornerstone of its enduring success.

Over the years, Grossmith has continued to evolve while remaining true to its roots. Its current portfolio includes both classic and modern scents, each crafted with the same level of precision and care that has defined the brand since its inception. This seamless blend of tradition and innovation has allowed Grossmith to remain relevant and esteemed in the ever-changing landscape of perfumery.

The revival of Grossmith in the 21st century by the descendants of the original founders has further cemented its status as a heritage brand. By reintroducing some of its historic fragrances and developing new ones, the company has managed to capture the essence of its rich history while appealing to contemporary tastes.

Today, Grossmith's fragrances are celebrated not only for their olfactory beauty but also for their exquisite presentation. Each perfume bottle is a testament to the brand's dedication to luxury and elegance, making Grossmith a symbol of heritage and quality in the world of perfumery. Whether through their timeless classics or innovative new creations, Grossmith continues to enchant and inspire perfume enthusiasts around the globe.

Tornade by Revillon c1935

In 1935, when Revillon launched their perfume "Tornade," the world was deep in the throes of the Great Depression. This period was marked by severe economic hardship, mass unemployment, and widespread poverty. Despite these challenges, people sought escapism and solace through various forms of entertainment and luxury, even in small doses. Romantic love often served as a refuge, a timeless narrative that continued to captivate hearts and minds during these tough times. The era's cinema, often referred to as the Golden Age of Hollywood, frequently featured themes of romantic love, offering a blend of fantasy and hope that resonated deeply with audiences. Films such as "Top Hat" (1935) with its lighthearted romance, and "Mutiny on the Bounty" (1935), though more adventurous, still carried underlying currents of personal and emotional relationships, were reflective of this trend.

The choice of the name "Tornade" by furriers Revillon is intriguing and multifaceted. "Tornade," the French word for "tornado," evokes a sense of powerful, swirling forces, and dramatic upheaval. This name suggests a perfume that is bold, intense, and capable of leaving a strong impression—much like the natural phenomenon it is named after. For Revillon, a renowned furrier branching into luxury fragrances, "Tornade" symbolized an intense, irresistible force of nature, aligning with the high impact they likely aimed to achieve with their perfume. The name conjures images of passion, unpredictability, and a whirlwind of emotions, all of which are potent associations for a fragrance meant to captivate and enchant.

Women of the 1930s might have found the name "Tornade" particularly compelling. The era’s societal constraints were being challenged, and women were beginning to explore more liberated forms of self-expression. A perfume named "Tornade" would have appealed to the modern woman’s desire for something daring and exciting, something that stood out in stark contrast to the everyday struggles of the Depression. The perfume’s name would evoke a sense of drama and allure, qualities that women might aspire to embody or be attracted to during a time when escapism through beauty and personal care products was a form of subtle rebellion against the harshness of reality.

Eden by Cacharel c1994

"Eden" by Cacharel is a distinctive fragrance that was launched in 1994. This perfume was created by the renowned perfumer Jean Guichard. "Eden" is known for its unique and lush scent profile, which combines fresh, floral, and aquatic notes, evoking the imagery of a verdant, exotic garden. The fragrance is often appreciated for its complex blend, which includes notes of peach, bergamot, mimosa, orange blossom, melon, pineapple, and patchouli, among others. This rich combination makes "Eden" a memorable and enduring scent in the world of perfumery.

Christian Dior - Art de la Table - Perfume Bottles - 1988

It's fascinating how Christian Dior expanded into the realm of home furnishings with the Art De La Table Collection in 1988, which included crystal perfume bottles reminiscent of the Art Deco style of the 1920s and 1930s. These bottles, crafted from 24% lead crystal by the talented glass company Sasaki in Japan, were designed to evoke the elegance and sophistication of that bygone era.

The decision to offer these bottles empty, allowing customers to fill them with their preferred perfume, adds a personal touch to the collection and makes them unique non-commercial items. The inclusion of frosted glass stoppers further enhances their aesthetic appeal, resembling the exquisite designs often associated with Lalique or Czechoslovakian glass.

The interchangeability of some bottles and stoppers adds an interesting dimension to the collection, allowing for customization and creative expression. It also reflects the versatility and craftsmanship of Sasaki in producing these elegant pieces that pay homage to the Art Deco era while incorporating modern elements. Overall, the Christian Dior Art De La Table Collection stands as a testament to the brand's commitment to luxury and style, offering customers the opportunity to bring a touch of timeless elegance into their homes.

• AC6617 Dior Bow Perfume Bottle.
• AC6618 Dior Rose
• AA6619 Elan
• Spring Violets
• Spring Rose
• AA6622 Spring Lilacs

Gallery of bottles produced by Sasaki for Christian Dior:

The gallery of bottles below were made and retailed by Sasaki, some of these bases and stoppers were used on the Christian Dior bottles too.

The bottle with the floral center was named Printemps (AA6608). The one with the bird was named Wings (A6991). The Wings bottle was also available in pink frosted crystal.

Cigalia by Roger et Gallet c1910

"Cigalia" by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1910, a period that coincided with the height of the Art Nouveau movement. This era, spanning roughly from 1890 to 1910, was characterized by its emphasis on natural forms, intricate lines, and organic motifs. Insects, particularly those with intricate and delicate forms like cicadas, became popular symbols and design elements in various forms of art, jewelry, and fashion. The appreciation of nature's elegance and complexity resonated deeply with the cultural and artistic sensibilities of the time.

The name "Cigalia" is derived from the word "cigale," which means "cicada" in French. Cicadas are known for their distinctive life cycle and the loud, rhythmic songs produced by the males to attract females. These insects are particularly famous for emerging en masse after spending years underground as nymphs, a phenomenon that has captured human fascination for centuries. Their emergence is often associated with the arrival of summer, symbolizing renewal and the passage of time.

The sound cicadas make is a high-pitched, continuous buzz, produced by the rapid buckling of tymbals, a part of their exoskeleton. This sound is synonymous with the heat of summer and the fullness of nature's bloom. Cicadas typically emerge during the warmer months, their life cycles synchronized with the seasons to maximize the chances of survival for their offspring.

In cultural symbolism, cicadas often represent longevity, immortality, and rebirth due to their unique life cycle. In various traditions, they are seen as harbingers of change and transformation, making "Cigalia" a name imbued with rich and evocative meanings. For a perfume, this name suggests a sense of timelessness, renewal, and the beauty of nature, qualities that would have been appealing to the sophisticated women of the Belle Époque.

Jasmin from Egypt by Tuvache c1941

Jasmin from Egypt by Tuvache: launched in 1941.