Monday, April 8, 2013

Parfum Mae West by Gabilla c1934

Parfum Mae West by Gabilla of Paris, created in 1933. It was publicized by the Grey Advertising Service, Inc.



Kobako by Bourjois c1936

Kobako was launched by Bourjois in 1936. Kobako is a chypre floral fragrance for women. The nose behind this fragrance is Ernest Beaux. Kobako, refers to a lacquer or porcelain box containing incense, Kobako means "perfume-box" in Japanese.







In 1937, Harper's Bazaar reported that:
"So, for longer than two decades, KOBAKO perfume was the secret of only two people — its creator, and the beauty who used it. It is said that she had an almost superstitious belief in its power to stir the emotions. Today, Kobako Perfume, so subtle, so seemingly remote, yet so persuasive to the senses, is the exquisite, the thrilling gift for a charming American lady. In a bottle of Chinese design. KOBAKO BOURJOIS INSPIRED BY ANCIENT CHINA ."





Fragrance Composition:


It is classified as a modern leather chypre fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus notes, lily, galbanum, 
  • Middle notes: rose, magnolia, jasmine, cloves, cinnamon, carnation
  • Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, orris, civet, benzoin, frankincense, amber, oakmoss, musk and leather




Bottles:



The bottle for Kobako is a replica of antique Chinese snuff bottle, and was manufactured by Verreries Brosse in France. This bottle was not designed or manufactured by Lalique, as I sometimes see this erroneously attributed. The red and black Bakelite presentation case was meant to imitate aged and carved cinnabar, I believe that Eduard Fornells made the case. 


A 1936 newspaper advertisement reads:
"Kobako - Chinese for perfume container. Kobako - new and exciting perfume of Oriental allure - a modern version of the glory of 12th century China. Mysterious, fascinating and whispering to her of thrilling adventure. Matching the artistry of France with the subtle of an exotic Chinese vase. Kobako is entrancing."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"With the Chinese influence strong in makeup and fashions, Bourjois is introducing a new Oriental fragrance in a typically Chinese container. Kobako," is the name of the new perfume, which we are told is translated to mean "beautiful perfume container" in Chinese. The bottle is of frosted glass, and said to be a copy of an ancient Chinese perfume bottle . It is encased in Oriental red embossed plastic box, which is a copy of a Chinese lacquered cabinet with a black base."

Arts and Decoration, 1937:
"Bourjois' newest perfume, "Kobako," in a jewel- like flacon copied from an ancient Chinese perfume bottle. Even the container is inspired by an old lacquered cabinet, also Chinese. The base is deep black and the cover is a dramatic glowing red."

A miniature version was also produced, this can be very hard to find. This bottle is rectangular in shape with curved shoulders, the bottle is molded with the floral design that matches the one on the luxury size bottle. A red screw cap tops the bottle. The mini bottle's presentation box is red cardboard and embossed with floral designs hearkening the Bakelite box's design.

photo by anicka


The purse size flacon, clear glass and molded with the floral motif. The bottle is topped off with a red plastic screw cap which ends with a tassel. The bottle has a small, round golden label. This is super rare to find.

photo by ebay seller xniide.




Fate of the Fragrance:


The last advertisement for Kobako I have found is dated 1951, so I assume the fragrance was discontinued around that time. It was discontinued for many years before being relaunched sometime in the 1980s.


Parfumerie Silka

Parfumerie Silka, also known as Parfums Silka, was established by Maurice Roussel at 16 quai de la Megisserie, Paris in 1909. He was related to Parfumerie Roussel family which was established in 1852, producer of the very successful Eau Gorlier in the 19th century.




Parfums Bryenne

Bryenne of Paris France, established in 1911 by Jacques Brach. The perfumes were imported into the USA by sole agents the Lionel Trading Co.


Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Beecham's Laboratory Perfumes

Emma Beecham established Beecham's of Oscawana on Hudson, NY around 1920. The company was later renamed as Beecham's Laboratory and launched a range of fragrances. The company is now part of Smith Kline Beecham, an international phamaceutical conglomerate.


The perfumes of Beecham's Laboratory of Oscawana on Hudson,NY:
  • 1919 La Rie
  • 1922 Ambrosia
  • 1922 Fleur D’Été
  • 1922 Royal English Rose
  • 1923 Oriental
  • 1925 Lady Teasel
  • 1925 Ambrosia
  • 1930 Allendale Rose
  • 1930 Garden Rose
  • 1930 La-Ca Meran Bouquet
  • 1930 Lathyrus
  • 1930 Royal Rose
  • 1930 Summer Flowers
  • 1930 Veritable
  • 1930 Wood Violet

Coty Parfum SANS NOM

An unusual perfume bottle was spotted on ebay France...the gorgeous and familiar bottle from Coty was presented with a most intriguing label...it merely says "Coty Parfum Sans Nom". ...so I thought this was strange...I looked all over and could not find this name anywhere in my books or on the internet...so what do we really have here...is it a one off perfume that didn't do so well so Coty sacked it? or...was it a prototype?
From the bottle, it is the old Lalique design that has the "briar" stopper...Do you have any information to share?


photos from ebay seller claudemanouk


Sunday, March 31, 2013

L'Arome Fragrances

L'Arome started in 1981 in the United Kingdom and sold fragrances mimicking those of world famous manufacturers.

In 1989 Jim Moore was one of four partners who ran L'Arome, a Deesside based perfume firm which sold products through multi-level (sometimes called network or pyramid) marketing.

L'Arome's brands were called "Echoes" because they were reminiscent of major perfume brands. In 1991, Chanel, one of the world's biggest perfume companies, sued L'Arome under the Trade Marks Act 1938.

Chanel claimed L'Arome's 180,000 distributors asked potential customers what their favourite perfume was and then sold them the Echoes version.

Mr Justice Millett found in favour of Chanel. L'Arome went bust, owing £6.5m. Days later, L'Arome was purchased from the receivers and turned into L'Arome International. This failed in 1993.

The bottles with 500 series numbers correspond with well-known women's fragrances, and the 600 series numbers correspond with well-known men's fragrances.

Please remember, none of the world famous maker's created any of these perfumes for L'Arome. These are L'Arome's own "versions" of the famous perfumes.

Numbers often changed as new perfumes were launched.

Women's Fragrances:

  • L'Arome #501 corresponds to Opium
  • L'Arome #502 corresponds to Poison
  • L'Arome #503 corresponds to Chanel No. 5
  • L'Arome #504 corresponds to Coco
  • L'Arome #505 corresponds to White Linen
  • L'Arome #506 corresponds to Anais Anais
  • L'Arome #507 corresponds to Chanel No.19
  • L'Arome #508 corresponds to Giorgio 
  • L'Arome #509 corresponds to Chloe/Rive Gauche
  • L'Arome #510 corresponds to Chloe/L'air du Temps
  • L'Arome #511 corresponds to Fidji/Beautiful
  • L'Arome #512 corresponds to L'air du Temps
  • L'Arome #513 corresponds to Youth Dew/Oscar de la Renta
  • L'Arome #514 corresponds to Miss Dior/Beautiful/Obsession
  • L'Arome #515 corresponds to Paris/Obsession
  • L'Arome #516 corresponds to Lou Lou/Oscar de la Renta
  • L'Arome #517 corresponds to Ysatis/Gloria Vanderbilt
  • L'Arome #518 corresponds to Arpege/Miss Dior
  • L'Arome #519 corresponds to Private Collection/Cinnabar
  • L'Arome #520 corresponds to Paris
  • L'Arome #521 corresponds to Lou Lou
  • L'Arome #522 corresponds to Passion
  • L'Arome #523 corresponds to Ysatis
  • L'Arome #527 corresponds to Lauren
  • L'Arome #528 corresponds to Red by Beverly Hills
  • L'Arome #529 corresponds to 


Men's Fragrances:

  • L'Arome #601 corresponds to Kouros
  • L'Arome #602 corresponds to Paco Rabanne
  • L'Arome #603 corresponds to Polo
  • L'Arome #604 corresponds to Aramis
  • L'Arome #605 corresponds to Azzaro
  • L'Arome #606 corresponds to Eau Sauvage
  • L'Arome #607 corresponds to Drakkar Noir
  • L'Arome #608 corresponds to Obsession for Men
  • L'Arome #610 corresponds to Giorgio for Men
  • L'Arome #611 corresponds to


Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Collecting Vintage Black Glass Perfume Bottles

In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of black glass. These elegant beauties were produced mainly during the 1920s, most have Art Deco influences. Why not start a collection focusing on just the black glass bottles?


Sunday, March 24, 2013

Chanel perfume lookalikes

This week on ebay I came across two unique perfume sample vials. They were labeled "No.6 Saxe Paris" and "No.4 Saxe Paris". The font on these labels looks nearly identical to Chanel's avant garde font.

Apparently, this "Saxe Paris" company was looking to cash in on the fact that their labels were similar to Chanel's.

photos by ebay seller mauri22


Sunday, March 17, 2013

Bosquet d’Apollon by Rosine c1922

Bosquet d’Apollon by Rosine: launched in 1922. The name means "The Grove of Apollo" and represents Versailles.



Welcome!

This is not your average perfume blog. In each post, I present perfumes or companies as encyclopedic entries with as much facts and photos as I can add for easy reading and researching without all the extraneous fluff or puffery.

Please understand that this website is not affiliated with any of the perfume companies written about here, it is only a source of reference. I consider it a repository of vital information for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. Updates to posts are conducted whenever I find new information to add or to correct any errors.

One of the goals of this website is to show the present owners of the various perfumes and cologne brands that are featured here how much we miss the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances!

Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table, did you like the bottle design), who knows, perhaps someone from the company brand might see it.

Also, if you have any information not seen here, please comment and share with all of us.

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