Iris Gris by Jacques Fath c1947

Iris Gris by Jacques Fath: launched in 1947 and originally created by Vincent Roubert.

Palo Alto by Ybry c1930

Palo Alto by Ybry: launched around 1930.

Pavots D'Argent by Roger et Gallet c1926

The perfume "Pavots d'Argent" by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1926, a period characterized by significant social and cultural transformations. The Roaring Twenties was an era marked by economic prosperity, the flourishing of the arts, and a shift in societal norms, particularly concerning women's roles and freedoms. This was a time when women were increasingly embracing new fashions, working outside the home, and asserting their independence.

In this context, gardening, including the cultivation of flowers such as poppies, became a popular pastime for many women. The opium poppy, known for its vibrant and delicate flowers, was particularly admired for its beauty and symbolism. Although the growing of opium poppies at home was not widespread due to their association with opium production, ornamental varieties of poppies were common in home gardens, appreciated for their aesthetic appeal rather than their narcotic properties.

"Pavots d'Argent" translates to "Silver Poppies" in English. Roger et Gallet likely chose this name for its evocative imagery and luxurious connotations. The term "pavots" (poppies) evokes a sense of natural beauty and delicate elegance, while "d'argent" (of silver) adds an element of opulence and sophistication. Together, the name suggests a blend of nature's beauty with a touch of preciousness, making it a fitting choice for a high-end perfume.

Muguet de Bois by Coty c1913

The launch of Muguet des Bois by Coty in 1913 occurred during a period of significant cultural and social shifts, particularly in the realm of women's rights and expression. François Coty, the visionary behind the fragrance, introduced it into a world where femininity was often associated with delicate, floral scents. The timing of the launch coincided with the burgeoning popularity of perfumes as an essential accessory for the modern woman, symbolizing elegance, refinement, and sensuality.

Lily of the valley, the focal note of Muguet des Bois, holds deep symbolism, especially in the context of femininity. Often associated with purity, innocence, and renewal, this delicate flower represented the idealized feminine virtues of the time. Its subtle yet enchanting fragrance became synonymous with grace and allure, making it a fitting choice for a perfume designed to accentuate the wearer's femininity.

Muguet des Bois by Coty embodied the essence of the era's feminine ideal, offering women a way to express themselves through scent. With its fresh, floral bouquet, the perfume captured the essence of springtime, evoking images of blooming gardens and romantic rendezvous. Its launch marked a pivotal moment in perfume history, cementing Coty's reputation as a master perfumer and setting the stage for the enduring legacy of Muguet des Bois as a timeless classic.

Pronounced "MEWGAY - DAY - BWAH"

Mediterano by John Robert Powers c1970

Mediterano by John Robert Powers: launched in 1970.

The Guerlain Boutique in Bermuda c1970s

Going on vacation to Bermuda? Then stop by the Guerlain shop at Peniston Brown, LTD.

PENISTON BROWN LTD .- THE PERFUME SHOP

In addition to being the exclusive Bermuda agent for Guerlain's complete line of cosmetics and skin care products, Peniston Brown's boutique stocks perfume, soap, lotions, and bubble bath. It's also the Island's exclusive seller of Betsey Johnson, Marc Jacobs, Moschino, Vera Wang and Versace, plus exquisite favourites from Hermes, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Calvin Klein, Aqua di Parma, Boucheron, Lacoste & Kenzo, plus many more. There's a branch in the Clocktower Mall, Dockyard. All at duty free prices!

CONTACT INFORMATION:
Address: Gibbons Co. Perfume Department, 21 Reid St., Hamilton,HM11
Phone: 441/295-5535
Website: www.gibbons.bm
Location: Bermuda

Other location:
6 Water St., St. George's, GE05, 441/405-0005

Original 1970s photos of the Guerlain shop exterior and interior at Peniston-Brown.

Backstage with the Ballerinas

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), Thursday 29 December 1938, page 17

BACKSTAGE with the ballerinas I watched Irina Baronova putting the finishing touches to her make-up in her dressing-room, and asked her if she had any preference in perfumes.

"Many of us use perfumes on the stage »,well as off," she told me. "For roles such as 'Swan Lake,' 'Les Sylphides,' and the truly classical ballets a heavy fragrance does not seem fitting. In these ballets I use only a light eau de Cologne, and then, In the more dramatic roles, I favor a more exotic fragrance. My favorite scents are Guerlain's Mitsouko and Jicky."

Tatiania Riabouchinska prefers the fresh woody scents-Guerlain's Quand Vient l'Eté is one of her particular favorites.

Tamara Gregorieva also favors Guerlain's Mitsouko. Crepe de Chine is another scent used by this artist, while L'Aimant de Coty is the perfume of her choice for the stage.

It is perhaps a superstition that Mlle. Gregorieva used L'Aimant de Coty always on the stage. On her first appearance she used the perfume, and since then she has never gone on stage without first spraying this fragrance on her costume.

Sono Asota does not use perfume on the stage. "When I am dancing I do not like to use perfume, but off stage Chypre de Coty and Patou's Amour Amour are very lovely scents."

And do the male members of the ballet like the ballerinas to use perfume? A unanimous"yes" greeted my question.

"Personally, mind you, I like soap," said Anton Doun, "but for lovely women most decidedly they should add perfume. Lelong's N is, I think, my favorite. Beatrice Lillie, famous English stage star, who is a great friend of mine, always uses this perfume."

Dimitri Rostoff also thinks perfume adds to a woman's charm, "If, of course, that is possible," he added with a twinkle in his eye.

The Lore of Perfume

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957) 

Wednesday 14 December 1938

The Lore of Perfume 

Do you understand the science of perfume, and are you choosing the right essence to express your personality?

To help you in this beauty lore, I visited the "perfume bar" at the Myer Emporium and enlisted the aid of two kindly helpers-whom I will call Veronica and Olive.

"If you are young and happy," said Veronica, "select a flowery perfume. One of those cool, fresh essences which seem to typify youth. These perfumes are also ideal when a woman is weary, depressed,or sad, as they carry happy thoughts and memories.

"A fair-haired girl may find Coty's Lily of the Valley a perfect essence for her type, while others may prefer the fragrance of Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs, or the endearing sweetness of some of the English scents.

"For the girl with auburn lights in her hair I advise a lilac or violet perfume," interjected Olive, "while the dark haired woman with a strong sense of mystery and romanticism should use gardenia or the heavier magnolia scent."

"Women who prefer a more sophisticated fragrance can experiment with such perfumes as Roger et Gallet's Fleur d'Amour, Jean Patou's Amour-Amour, or Lucien Lelong's mystery scent known as 'N'."

Veronica moved in front of the array of perfume containers and pointed to one of the many phials-"The fair, serene type of young matron," she remarked,"should try Chanel's 5,' as this is a delicate scent which fades away into a soft powdery fragrance, while for the sports girl I recommend such perfumes as Chanel's Cuir de Russie or Lentheric's Tweed.

"If you wish to be mysterious, romantic,or exotic, there are essences for every emotion. Buy a tiny quantity and test for yourself. There is the incense-laden perfume of Worth's Je Reviens, the sandalwood scent of Rigaud's Un Air Embaume, the provocative audacity of Lentheric's Le Pirate, of Schiaparelli's Shocking, of Lanvin's Scandal, or the mystery of Guerlain's Shalimar."

"Remember not to use too strong or too heavy a perfume in the morning,"said Olive. "Keep the fragrance light and almost imperceptible. Then in the afternoon employ a more definite, but still aloof and refined scent, while for the evening use the perfume that suits your mood."

"Are you the elegant and quieter type of older woman who dislikes too noticeable a perfume-well there is Coty's L'Origan or the lilac-scented bouquet of Duchess of York-the essence made by a Russian prince."

Veronica waved an elusive glass stopper before my face and bade me au revoir, saying: "The chief secret is to exploit your personality."

Explosives from Scent c1941

Kalgoorlie Miner (WA : 1895 - 1950), Friday 26 December 1941, page 3

The English Woman's Diary - Concerning Scent

Originally posted in the publication The English Woman's Diary.

November 25 1908 

THE THE ENGLISH WOMAN'S DIARY 

Concerning Scent 

Am delighted to hear that a decision has been made that certain scents are actually valuable as antiseptics. Lavender and eau de cologne are both named among the most to be prized and some of the sweeter scents as well. Nothing is more vulgar than a highly scented woman and a strong odour of violets has a peculiar effect of nausea on many people. It is the worst possible taste to make use profusely of scent. Another discovery is that two scents are capable of destroying each other. Scent should never be applied direct to the skin but a delicate odour should be communicated to all the wardrobe by the same sachet being concealed in the drawers cupboards boxes &c. The latest fad is to wear scented pads in the hair, but the more delicate and artistic method is to keep the brushes in a highlyscented box and this communicates that faint and mystic odour which is so fascinating. Especially in these days when both women and men smoke so much the hair is easily permeated with the odour of stale tobacco smoke which is anything but attractive so I hail this latter idea with distinct satisfaction.