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Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Friday, December 6, 2013

Le Roy Soleil by Schiaparelli c1947

In 1947, the world was emerging from the devastation of World War II, a conflict that had profoundly altered social, economic, and cultural landscapes globally. The end of the war brought a mix of relief and a collective desire for renewal and celebration. Elsa Schiaparelli, renowned for her avant-garde fashion designs and innovative approach to fragrance, launched "Le Roy Soleil" as a tribute to mark this pivotal moment in history. The perfume aimed to encapsulate the opulence and magnificence associated with the reign of Louis XIV of France, often referred to as the Sun King.

Schiaparelli's choice of the name "Le Roy Soleil" was deliberate and multifaceted. Louis XIV's era represented a pinnacle of French cultural and artistic achievement, characterized by grandeur, refinement, and a flourishing of the arts. By naming her perfume after the Sun King, Schiaparelli sought to evoke the essence of this golden age—its luxury, sophistication, and the aura of divine right associated with monarchy. "Le Roy Soleil" not only paid homage to a historical figure but also symbolized a return to elegance and an aspiration for a brighter future after the dark years of war.



"Le Roy Soleil" would have resonated deeply with those who appreciated history, art, and luxury. It would appeal to individuals with a penchant for nostalgia and a longing for the cultural richness of past eras. Those who related to the perfume would likely respond with admiration, seeing it as a fragrance that transports them to an era of courtly splendor and refined tastes. The scent itself would be expected to embody the opulence and allure of Louis XIV's court, perhaps featuring notes of exotic spices, rich florals, and precious woods that evoke the ambiance of royal gardens and luxurious palaces.

The name "Le Roy Soleil" evokes images of shimmering sunlight filtering through ornate windows of grand palaces, intricate gardens adorned with fountains, and the sumptuous fabrics and perfumes worn by royalty. It evokes feelings of warmth, splendor, and a sense of being transported to a time when art and culture flourished under the patronage of a powerful monarch. For those familiar with French history or enchanted by tales of bygone royal courts, "Le Roy Soleil" promises a sensorial journey into a world of timeless elegance and majesty.

Lou Lou by Cacharel c1987

LouLou was launched by Cacharel in 1987. It was created by perfumer Jean Guichard of Givaudan-Roure.

"Unlock the mystery of seduction..."





Leg Makeup

Many of us have heard of leg makeup, a fantastic formula that gave the illusion that a woman was wearing stockings, was a secret of many ladies during World War II when nylon stocking shortages were at their height.

I found the earliest reference to leg makeup in a 1929 newspaper ad:
"Doraldina's Allura Arm and Leg Makeup simulates a perfect tan. These shades of Allura take the place of stockings.  "

This liquid foundation like formula came in several shades, Hollywood Tan, Palm Beach Tan, Desert Tan, Sun Tan. Doraldina also had powders to harmonize with these shades.

Doraldina, born Dora Saunders ( b1888 - d1936), was a famous Hollywood cosmetician, Metro Goldwyn Mayer screen actress and above all, a dancer who brought the native Hawaiian dance, the Hula to mainstream America.

The Green Book Magazine, Volume 16, 1916:












According to Who's Who on the Screen (1920),
"Doraldina, one of the newest of Metro stars, though given a splendid opportunity to display her histrionic talents as an actress, will, nevertheless, retain in her pictures the familiar Hawaiian setting with which her legion of admirers have come to associate her. Beginning her career as a manicurist in a San Francisco hotel, Doraldina's rise to fame and stardom comes as a fitting climax to a career during which she put forth every effort to please a discriminating public. Studying the dancing art first in New York, and then in Barcelona, Spain, she returned to New York where her career an dancer, actress, and screen star made of her a national figure. Her first Metro production is "Passion Fruit."
Read more on Doraldina here: http://www.starts-thursday.com/2011/11/play-ball-with-doraldina.html

Even more here: http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/powder-bars.php

Her perfectly tanned skin contrasted with her vivid costumes and started the rage for sun tanned skin and started her own makeup company specializing in bringing the sun tan to American housewives easily and affordably. Now the women who could not otherwise go away to an exotic place to reach that unforgettable vacation hue, could easily slather on the leg and arm preparations and at least have the look with less damaging results.

Hollywood stars and starlets wore the leg and arm makeup, Bessie Love, Mary Carlisle, Lilyan Tashman, Raquel Torres, Anne Ames, Helen Welles, Marjorie McNally and Joan Crawford were some of the actresses advertised as wearing the makeup. The last advertisement I can find for Doraldina's cosmetics is from 1942.

Doraldina started her cosmetician career as a manicurist and then began her own business, Doraldina, Inc in the 1920s. Doraldina was known for her " extraordinary [olive] skin and complexion"  and one observer remarked that Doraldina "represents the exotic charm of the maidens of the South Seas, to whom are known the final ports of many missing men."

A 1930 advertisement for Doraldina's cosmetics reads:
"Just in time to fill Vacation needs. A complete week-end kit of DORALDINA BEAUTY BOX. Two jars of Allura, a box of Powder, bottle of Astringent, jar of Cleansing Cream, a jar of Skin Food, a jar of Tissue Cream, a box of tissues - packed in an attractive green lacquered box."

During the 1940s, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced "Shocking Stocking", a leg makeup in three shades.


Celluloid Dresser Sets

Celluloid was a common material used to manufacture vanity and dresser sets starting in the mid 1800s up until around the 1930s, when it was replaced by other plastics like Bakelite and Lucite.

Wikipedia states that "Celluloid is the name of a class of compounds created from nitrocellulose and camphor, plus dyes and other agents. Generally regarded to be the first thermoplastic, it was first created as Parkesine in 1856 and as Xylonite in 1869 before being registered as Celluloid in 1870.

Celluloid is easily molded and shaped, and it was first widely used as an ivory replacement. Celluloid is highly flammable and also easily decomposes, and is no longer widely used. Its most common uses today are in table tennis balls and guitar picks."

More detailed information on the manufacture and patenting of celluloid, can be found on wikipedia.

Some of the trade names used on the dresser accessories are:
  • Pyralin/Pyrolin
  • French Ivory
  • Agalin
  • Celluloid
  • Fiberloid
  • Ivory Fiberloid
  • Ivoroid
  • Zylonite
  • Ivoris
  • Ivorine
  • Arch-Amerith
  • Goldaleur
  • Silvaleur

Spanish Geranium by Lanvin c1925

Géranium D'Espagne by Lanvin: launched in 1925, created by Madame Marie Zede, and later may have been tweaked by Andre Fraysse. WWII halted production of the perfume but by 1950 it was re-introduced and renamed Spanish Geranium in 1951 for the US market.



Tabac Blond by Caron c1919

Tabac Blond: created in 1919. Pronounced "TAH-BAH-BLAWN", its name means "blond tobacco " in French. Created by Ernest Daltroff. It was a unique perfume, because at that time it was the only the only feminine fragrance with tobacco notes.



Coty's "Big Three" Perfumes

Connie, a wonderful friend graciously sent me some very old samples of Coty perfumes, which I call the "Big Three".  Emeraude, L'Aimant and L'Origan. These perfumes have stood the test of time and have remained popular for decades.




Lili Bermuda Perfumes

The Bermuda Perfumery was founded in 1928 by William Blackburn (W.B.) Smith and his daughter Madeline Scott. English chemist Herbert Scott conceived the idea of salvaging the scent of lily blossoms that were thrown away because the bulbs were more valuable. He worked at research and experimentation for four years. He finally solved th problem by employing the enfleurage method of extraction. The extraction plant has become a popular place for tourists since it opened.

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