Paris by Yves Saint Laurent 1983

Paris by Yves Saint Laurent: launched in 1983. Created by Sophia Grojsman.

Belle de Jovan by Jovan c1976

 

Belle de Jovan by Jovan: launched in 1976.

 

Mea Culpa by de Vernon c1962

Freddy, a gift shop located at 10 rue Auber in Paris, sold handbags, scarves, gloves, umbrellas, jewelry, novelties, all sorts of vanity goods including cut crystal Marcel Franck atomizers and Limoges porcelain perfume bottles, small purse size hand mirrors and smoking accessories, etc.

Gio by Giorgio Armani c1992

Gio by Giorgio Armani: launched in 1992. Composed by the perfumers at Givaudan Roure. In USA in 1993.

Gio, pronounced "Joe", is short for Giorgio (Armani's nickname) and is pronounced "Joe." which was to replace Armani's original self-titled Armani fragrance from 1982. Giorgio Armani stated that "it is the perfume expression of the principles that govern my life." Created by Françoise Caron.

WE NEED PERFUME CONTAINERS

During the Second World War, France faced severe material shortages and significant disruptions in both domestic and international trade. The illustrated poster from the National Union of French Perfumery, created between 1941 and 1944 by sculptor René Letourneur, reflects these dire circumstances. The appeal, “We need perfumery containers to continue to provide you - bring us all your bottles, tubes, and useless pots,” underscores the critical situation faced by French perfumers during the war.

Decadence by Decadence c1985

Decadence by Decadence: launched in the fall 1985 by Parfums International (the prestige fragrance group of the Prince Matchabelli division of Chesebrough-Pond's Inc.)

Yendi by Capucci c1972

Yendi by Capucci: launched in 1972. Created by perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure-Bertrand (now Roure).

Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1896

Foin Coupe by Guerlain: created in 1896, also sold as "New Mown Hay".

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka c1997

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka: launched in 1997. Created by Annick Ménardo.

Societe Francaise Des Produits De Beaute

Societe Francaise Des Produits De Beaute of Paris, France:

Guirlandes by Carven c1982

Guirlandes by Carven: launched in 1982. It was created for the young woman by Jean Guichard of Robertet.

Diamant Bleu by Gloria Vanderbilt c1946

The Gloria Vanderbilt Salon opened in 1946 at 15 East 60th Street, New York City on the first floor of the Chalom Art Gallery. The marble fronted salon was meant to be a dream showroom for the wholesale trade of the Gloria Vanderbilt Corporation's cosmetics, skincare and perfume line, in addition to some antiques and jewelry.

Maud Frizon by Maud Frizon c1985

Maud Frizon by Maud Frizon: launched in 1985. This was the first fragrance by shoe designer, known for her amusing creations. 

Hallo Coco! by Jovoy c1924

Hallo Coco! by Jovoy: launched in 1924. The scent was available in both perfume and face powder.

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain c1890

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain: launched in 1890. Created by Jacques Guerlain. The name means "The Good Old Times" and recalls the scents of the old potpourri jars (sweet jars) found in homes and the heavy musk worn by so many in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Bic Fragrances

Societe Bic, a company who makes low cost, but good quality disposable razors, lighters and pens brought out a fragrance collection in 1988 under the brand Parfums Bic.

The scents were developed by Firmenich in France and the collection originally included four fragrances: Jour, Nuit, Homme, and Sport.

Tweed by Lentheric c1933

The launch of Tweed by Lentheric in 1933 coincided with a transformative period in social norms and women's roles. The early 1930s marked an era when women were increasingly breaking traditional stereotypes by participating in outdoor sports and leisure activities that were previously considered predominantly male domains. This cultural shift reflected a broader movement towards female empowerment and independence.

Naming a perfume "Tweed" during this time was a strategic choice for Lentheric. Tweed fabric itself symbolizes durability, ruggedness, and a connection to outdoor pursuits like hunting and horseback riding, which were gaining popularity among women. By associating the perfume with tweed, Lentheric captured the essence of these outdoor activities while adding an element of sophistication and elegance.

The name "Tweed" also resonated with the evolving perceptions of femininity in the early 20th century. It represented a blend of adventurous spirit with refined taste, appealing to women who sought fragrances that mirrored their newfound freedom and active lifestyles. This alignment with outdoor sports and leisure further positioned Tweed as a scent that embodied both strength and grace, catering to women embracing unconventional roles and activities.

The export of Tweed under the name "Risque Tout" to Europe, Central, and South America underscored Lentheric's strategic approach to adapt to local markets while maintaining the essence of the brand. "Risque Tout," translating to "risk it all," suggested a daring and adventurous spirit, aligning perfectly with the perfume's association with outdoor sports and the evolving attitudes towards femininity globally.

In summary, launching Tweed by Lentheric in 1933 was not only timely but also reflective of broader societal changes. The perfume's name and concept tapped into the growing trend of women participating in outdoor activities, offering them a fragrance that celebrated both their strength and elegance during a transformative era in history.

Prince George of Russia

The Prince George of Russia perfumery brand was founded by Martin de Markoff (aka Martin de Botelho). The full name of the brand was "The Perfumes of His Highness Prince George Kostantinovich Romanov of Russia, Inc. of New York, New York. This was established for the former Russian prince, George Constantine.

The company was associated with Markoff's other brands Ballarde Inc and Alexandra de Markoff.

In business until 1946.

Recital by F. Millot c1931

Recital by F. Millot: launched in 1931. Created by Jean Desprez.

Half Doll Boudoir Novelties Catalog Page

Here is a wonderful page from a 1926 catalog showing interesting half doll novelties in a variety of types. These feature the "Colonial Dame" brand or style composition heads. Most of these that we have seen were made in France. The half dolls were mounted on strong wire frames, have wavy wigs in colors of white, blonde, auburn and black. They are dressed in high quality materials and fabrics made up of rayon and silk taffeta with ornamental passementerie trimmings, some metallic. The fabric colors were chosen to work best in the boudoir in shades of "old rose", "copen" which is a soft blue, "orchid" and "tan". I suspect the entire ensemble was made and imported from France.

Parfumerie Brissac

Parfumerie Brissac was a French company established in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1917 by L. Aubert y Cía.  (L. Aubert y Compania, Jorge Newbery St. Buenos Aires). They were associated with Les Parfums Persans. Brissac was still in business in 1924.

Un jour le parfum, il etait une nuit by Sephora c1996

On December 11, 1996, Sephora opened the largest perfumery in the world on the iconic Champs-Élysées in Paris. This grand event marked a significant milestone in the world of fragrance and retail. To celebrate this monumental occasion, Sephora organized a spectacular all-night event on December 21, 1996, called "La Nuit du Parfum," coinciding with the longest night of the year. From 4:55 PM until sunrise at 8:44 AM the following day, the event was a tribute to the artistry of perfume, featuring a gathering of industry experts, designers, and perfumers who shared insights into their craft.

A highlight of the event was the exclusive release of a special edition fragrance, "Un jour le Parfum…Il Etait une nuit." Created specifically for this celebration, the perfume was a limited edition, with only 300 bottles produced. Each bottle was housed in an exquisite crystal flacon designed by the renowned designer Serge Mansau, adding a touch of elegance and luxury to the fragrance. The miniature bottles were distributed at Sephora stores, making them highly sought after and rare collectibles today.

The fragrance name "Un jour le Parfum…Il Etait une nuit" translates to "One Day the Perfume…It Was a Night" in English. This evocative title suggests a narrative or thematic connection to a particular moment or experience related to the night, aligning with the perfume’s celebration of the nocturnal hours and the special event held to mark its launch.

The name captures a sense of storytelling and mystery, reflecting the essence of the event it commemorates—an all-night celebration dedicated to perfume, held on the longest night of the year. It alludes to the notion of a memorable, almost mythical night associated with the fragrance, enhancing the allure and exclusivity of the scent.

Women's Wear Daily reported that the event was not only a grand occasion for attendees but also a globally connected experience, with live satellite broadcasts and Internet interactions allowing perfume enthusiasts worldwide to partake in the festivities. This unique blend of in-person and digital engagement underscored Sephora's innovative approach to celebrating perfume and its rich cultural significance.

Madame de Carven c1979

Madame de Carven by Carven: launched in 1979.

Les Parfums Nelombo

Nelombo was established in 1931 by Les Laboratoires Dausse, Societe Anonyme, Paris, France . The name Nelombo is the common name of the Netumbium speciosum, a large pink water lily or lotus.

Shanghai by Lentheric c1936

Shanghai by Lentheric: launched in 1936. Originally named Cœur de Paris and launched in 1911. Cœur de Paris was renamed Shanghai in 1936 and was repackaged in a beautiful Chinese styled vase.

Pia by Dimitri c1977

Pia by Dimitri Ltd.: launched in 1977. The company Dimitri of Italy was created by Piero Dimitri.

Maria Pia was was an employee in the Dimitri firm in Italy before her marriage Piero, the famous Dimitri of Italy the first mens wear designer in the Coty Hall of Fame. Maria put her family responsibilities first, but remained involved in Dimitri's career. As the children grew up, Maria moved into the Dimitri fashion and design picture.

Eau de Rochas by Rochas c1970

Eau de Rochas by Rochas: launched in 1970. Nicolas Mamounas.

Asphodele by Lentheric c1926

Asphodele by Lentheric: launched in 1926, pronounced "As Fo Del". Asphodele refers to the species of daffodil (narcissus) that grow around the Mediterranean and a species growing on both the coasts of Brittany and Galicia. In the ancient times, the daffodils were often used to bloom the grave of the dead, where the legend of Asphodel Meadow , instead of Hades in Greek mythology . I have read that the actual asphodele plant has no scent.

Vent Vert by Balmain c1947

Vent Vert by Balmain: launched in 1947. Created by Germaine Cellier of Roure perfumers.

Les Parfums Dorilly

Les Parfums Dorilly was established in 1920 by M. Pommez at 4 rue de la Paix, Paris. Dorilly made luxury presentations in the 1920s. Later established the successful Parfums Marquay in 1947.

What is Parfum de Toilette?

I get numerous questions about fragrance concentrations from my readers. People seem to be confused about terms such as "Parfum de Toilettes", to answer your queries, here is my easy guide to tell you what they really are.

Let's break it down from the top with Parfum.
Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. A parfum may contain up to 20-30 percent oils and high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water. Vintage Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfums can be composed up of natural and synthetic ingredients, no matter if they are vintage or modern. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume. Any mixture lower in oils is known as an eau.

Next in concentration is the Eau de Parfum.

Eau de Parfum, also known as Esprit de Parfum, Secret de Parfum, Millesime, or Parfum de Toilette, is composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. Vintage Eau de Parfum, Esprit de Parfum, or Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils and were highly concentrated. Eau de Parfums usually last about 4-8 hours. 

Parfum de Toilette first started being used around 1960 by Coty, followed by Revillon, Caron, Nina Ricci Rochas, Salvador Dali, Le Galion, Jean Desprez, Weil, Houbigant, Worth, Craven, Dolce & Gabbana and other brands. The timeframe for Parfum de Toilette usage was 1960-2000. The last time I saw "Parfum de Toilette" advertised in a newspaper was 1989. 

Christian Dior had both "Esprit de Parfum" for the Poison line, Dune, Miss Dior, Dioressence, Diorissimo and "Secret de Parfum", mostly for Opium. Oscar de la Renta had an Esprit de Parfum for his signature fragrance Oscar. 

Orlane had a Secret de Parfum for their scent Fleurs d'Orlane, as did Guerlain as a limited edition for Shalimar. 

Creed uses Millesime. According to Creed, the house hand-selects the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each “Millesime”, or Creed fragrance. Millesime indicates that The House of Creed has hand-selected the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each Creed fragrance. Creed Millesime fragrances are blends that consist of the highest-quality concentration of infused essential oils made from raw materials. Millesime can also refer to their fragrances being hand-crafted by our Master Perfumer, Olivier Creed.. 

Today most brands use the term Eau de Parfum, most of the other terms were used in vintage fragrances. Creed still uses the term Millesime.

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Eau de Toilette: also called toilet water, is a much thinner dilution of the same materials, containing approximately only 4-10 percent of essential oils, in an even weaker alcohol and water mixture. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. Meant to be splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.


Lesser concentrations:


Eau de Cologne: for men or women, or aftershave, is further diluted, about 3-5 percent of essential oils, in an even still weaker alcohol and water mix. Usually lasts about 2 hours. Meant to be liberally splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates. Used for toning and refreshing the skin after bathing.


Eau Fraiche: this is the weakest form of fragrance on the market, a light toilet water similar to cologne or splash usually with 1-3 percent of essential oil in water and a higher grade of alcohol. Usually lasts for less than an hour. Meant to be liberally reapplied throughout the day for a refreshing feeling. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Voile de Parfum: also known as Eau Parfumée, Voile d'Été, Eau Sans Alcool, Brume de Parfum, Perfume Mist, is a non-alcoholic fragrance diluted with water and about 3-8 percent essential oils. Typically used to be worn during the warmer months at the beach or in warmer climates.

Miracle by Lentheric c1924

In 1924, when Lentheric launched the perfume "Miracle - Miracle," the world was amidst a transformative era marked by artistic and cultural revolutions. This period, known as the Roaring Twenties, epitomized a newfound sense of liberation and decadence following the First World War. The name "Miracle - Miracle" was carefully chosen to resonate with the zeitgeist of the time, capturing the spirit of optimism, innovation, and fascination with the extraordinary.

Against this backdrop, Max Reinhardt's play "Miracle" became a sensation, starring the enchanting actress Diana Manners, celebrated for her beauty and charm. The play itself symbolized the allure of theatrical magic and the ability to transport audiences to realms of wonder and fantasy. Lentheric's decision to name their perfume after this play was strategic, aiming to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that resonated with the desires of the era's cosmopolitan and sophisticated clientele.

Moreover, the name "Miracle - Miracle" suggests not only the miraculous allure of the fragrance itself but also the transformative power it promises to its wearer. Just as Diana Manners captured hearts on stage, the perfume sought to captivate with its elegant blend of scents, promising wearers a touch of theatrical glamour and sophistication. In essence, the choice of name was a nod to the cultural currents of the time, where art, theater, and beauty converged to create moments of pure enchantment and allure, mirroring the essence of Lentheric's exquisite fragrance.

Les Parfums de Colmy

Established by Edouard Colmant at 348 rue Saint-Honoré, Paris; also owned Parfumerie E. Coudray.

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay c1960

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay: launched in 1960.

History of Perfumery in the 17th Century

In the 16th and 17th centuries, bathing was to a large extent abandoned in favor of the liberal use of toilet waters, scented powders and luxurious fragrances.

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan c1992

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan: launched in September 1992. Created by Jean-Claude Delville and Pierre Wargnye.

Spurred by her husband Stephan Weiss' desire to leave a lasting legacy beyond her fashion house, Donna Karan entered the world of fragrance. Taking a cue from Coco Chanel, whose iconic fashion empire was revived by her perfume ventures, Karan's husband persuaded her with the eventual fact that "hemlines go up and down, but fragrance is forever". 

Variations by Carven c1971

Variations by Carven: launched in 1971.

Allez Hop by Jovoy c1924

Allez Hop by Jovoy: launched in 1924.

CB Rocca

In 1946, Clara Hirsch, operating under the business name Rocca in Paris, France, filed a trademark registration. This registration covered a range of products including perfume, rouge (cosmetic), and dentifrice (toothpaste) under the name CB Rocca. The filing date for the trademark was July 30, 1946.

The trademark registration claimed use of the Rocca brand since May 25, 1897. This suggests that Clara Hirsch had been actively using the Rocca name for these products for nearly half a century before the trademark filing.

In 1946, ownership of the Rocca trademark belonged to Clara Hirsch, indicating her established role in the perfumery and cosmetic industry in Paris. The long history of the Rocca brand underscores its enduring presence and reputation in the marketplace from the late 19th century onward.

Ivoire de Balmain c1979

Ivoire de Balmain: launched in 1979. Created by Michel Hy and Francis Camail of Florasynth. Pierre Balmain stated that he was inspired by his lifelong "desire to create elegance and beauty for women." First distributed by Revlon in the United States. In 1985, Balmain Perfumes was acquired from Revlon by Cobepa, the Belgian subsidiary of Paribas. Jacques Bergerac (the brother of Michel, the ex-number one of Revlon) remains the CEO.