Factices and Dummy Display Perfume Bottles

In this guide I will introduce you to the world of perfume display bottles, also called Factices (pronounced fack-teece), and dummy bottles in the perfume trade.

A factice is an advertising store display bottle that is lent to a perfume vendor (department stores) by the perfume house and are not meant for retail sale. The bottles are exact replicas of the normal perfume bottles. Because these bottles are on loan, they are usually returned back to the perfume house and not sold publicly.

In the early days of factices, these might be filled with perfume, but as time went on, manufacturers began to use colored water, a type of colored antifreeze, a mixture of rubbing alcohol or formaldehyde, or glycogen is used in most examples. The colored water examples sometimes have some sort of sediment or flaky particles floating around in the liquid, this is most likely caused by bacteria or mold growing in the water. Some factices, such as those for My Sin by Lanvin, are hollow, opaque plastic bottles, with no liquid inside.

The colored liquid for the factices often come premade in advance in aluminum containers when they are delivered to the department stores. Alternatively they might come as an extract in a small plastic bottle and the shop owner would have to mix it with distilled water.

I would like to mention that factices came in many sizes, from smaller versions of their retail examples to identical sizes, all the way up to much larger than life examples. These larger bottles are known as giant factices.

The older factices were made of glass or crystal, the newer ones of plastic or acrylic. The bases may be acid stamped or etched with "dummy", "factice" or a "D" engraved into the glass.

I have three possibilities on how the factices were marked. They were probably scratched "dummy" by the glass factories before they were sent to the perfume factories, or were scratched on at the perfume factories so that it wouldn't be mistakenly filled with the actual perfume. Another possibility is that it could have been scratched on by a store employee to differentiate it from the perfume filled examples.

I wanted to mention that some vintage Guerlain & Balenciaga bottles are often marked dummy on the back of the label that is on the front of the bottle. The only way to see the word dummy is by looking through the back of the bottle and seeing the back of the label on the front of the bottle. Since the labels were affixed at the perfume factories (which were in France but the bottles were for American export) it would make sense that the word "dummy" was used instead of factice (French for artificial, fake). Please note that recent examples might have a sticker or label on the back of the bottle that states "dummy" or "for display purposes only" or "not for resale".

Some factices are one solid piece, meaning the stopper is molded into the base and not removeable. I have seen some acrylic factices like this for Givenchy perfumes.

Don't confuse a tester with a factice. Testers are advertising bottles filled with actual perfume and were meant to be used. Some stores will sell testers, and there are companies who will wholesale testers to the public. Testers generally come without a cap or box.

Please make sure you mention factice in your title and description. Collectors of factices will be able to find it easily. And people who are looking for the actual perfume bottle (not a factice) will appreciate your honesty.

The larger factices are generally much more desired than their smaller counterparts. The best factices are those marked Lalique or Baccarat, these signed pieces command the highest prices. You can find many different factices on ebay quite easily. Why not add one to your collection today?

How to determine if your bottle is a factice:

Is your bottle sealed with contents? Does it look like perfume? How can you tell if you have a factice? Some simple ways of determining this are listed below:

Shake the bottle. Do you see floating particles? if so, it is a factice. The particles are bacteria forming inside the colored water.

Shake the bottle. Do you see a separation of the contents? Do you see little balls of oily substance in a sea of what looks like alcohol? Then you have perfume in your bottle. The perfume oils often thicken due to age and evaporation. The fragrance congeals a bit leaving small oil balls in the alcohol.

Does the bottle have a waxed paper seal? if so, it may not be a factice. Vintage perfume bottles are usually sealed with onion paper which has been waxed over to prevent spillage during shipment. Also the stopper will be tied with a cord which wraps around the neck of the bottle. Some factices, such as the Chanel often times have this too, but I have never seen a factice with the waxed paper seal.


Can you smell perfume around the mouth of the bottle? If so it is not a factice. Your factice should have no perfume smell at all.


Are the contents dark and discolored? If so, it is most likely not a factice.Vintage perfume usually discolors and turns a darker shade over the years when exposed to air or heat. The liquid in factices should not discolor with age.

Look at the stopper and the neck of the bottle. Do you see any discoloration? If so, this will not be a factice. Vintage perfumes, due to the oils and evaporation, often discolor the inside neck of the bottle and stopper and leaves residue even if its still sealed. Factices should be clear and clean with no residue present.

Some buyers prefer their factices emptied before shipping, this keeps the shipping costs down as filled factices can be quite heavy and expensive to ship. If you want your bottle emptied before shipping, please make mention of this to your seller.

If your factice is empty, you may wish to refill them with a colored solution to look like perfume. It should not be plain water, as the bacteria in the water can cause mold and you will see floating flakes of gunk, which is not pretty. Also due to the bacteria, it may eventually cause clouding to the glass, which cannot be reversed and really looks horrible and ruins the value of your bottle. Instead, you can use this mixture to fill them. 

Mix the following:

• 3/4 parts rubbing alcohol
• 1/4 part distilled water

To make the colored dye to mimic perfume, mix the following:

• A few drops of food coloring
• Small amount of warm water

Then add the the color mixture to the alcohol mixture. If you omit this step and simply add the food coloring directly into the alcohol mixture, it will not mix right and you'll only end up with colored bubbles.

Now, take a medicine dropper, plastic pipette or use a funnel to decant the alcohol mixture into your bottle. Be careful not to get any labels wet, as this can causing staining or rippling and will hurt the value of your bottle. Do not fill the bottle all the way to the top, leave some "headspace" for the glass to expand.

You can store any leftover mixture and save it for use the next time. 

What to do with smaller factice bottles? Use them for a display on your vanity or in a window instead of your precious perfume bottles. You can store your actual perfume bottles away from the light and heat, and use factices on your dressing table for a beautiful display.

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Ungaro by Emanuel Ungaro c1977

Ungaro by Emanuel Ungaro: launched in 1977.

Dramming Events

Dramming refers to a technique for transferring a fragrance from a larger container to a smaller one (some websites call this "decanting".)

Fidji by Guy Laroche c1966

Fidji was launched by French clothing designer Guy Laroche in 1966.

L'Heure Romantique by Corday c1928

"L'Heure Romantique" translates to "The Romantic Hour" in English. The perfume was launched in 1928, a time known for its distinctive blend of sensuality, romance, and intimacy.

In the 1920s, particularly in Western societies, there was a notable shift towards more liberated attitudes regarding love, relationships, and personal expression. The era was characterized by jazz, flappers, and a sense of freedom after the end of World War I. Women's fashion became more daring, and there was a growing emphasis on enjoying life and indulging in pleasures, including romantic ones.

The name "L'Heure Romantique" captures the essence of this period perfectly. It suggests a specific moment in time dedicated to romance and intimacy, evoking images of candlelit dinners, whispered confessions of love, and stolen kisses. During the 1920s, notions of romance were evolving beyond traditional norms, embracing new forms of expression and freedom in relationships.

Blanche Arvoy, the founder of Corday perfumes, likely chose the name "L'Heure Romantique" to tap into the spirit of the times and appeal to women who sought elegance, sensuality, and a touch of allure in their fragrances. The name suggests a perfume designed for a woman who appreciates romance and understands its nuances, someone who values moments of intimacy and wishes to enhance them with a scent that complements the atmosphere.

Women of that era would likely respond positively to such a perfume with a name like "L'Heure Romantique." It would resonate with their desire for sophistication and romance, offering them a way to enhance their allure and create an aura of mystery and sensuality.

The name "L'Heure Romantique" conjures images of moonlit walks, silk dresses, and whispered promises. It evokes feelings of nostalgia for a time when romance was celebrated openly and passionately. In the context of the 1920s, it signifies a departure from Victorian restraint to a more modern, liberated approach to love and relationships.

Overall, "L'Heure Romantique" by Corday not only captures the essence of its time but also embodies the desires and aspirations of women who sought romance and intimacy amidst the changing social landscape of the 1920s.

Azzaro by Loris Azzaro c1970

Azzaro by Loris Azzaro: launched in 1970, some sites state it was launched in 1975 (distributed by CosmEurop). The fragrance is also known as Azzaro Couture (Le Parfum-Couture de Loris Azzaro). Created by Maurice Thibond.

"Azzaro — the slightly wicked evening perfume."

 Azzaro by Loris Azzaro, is a fragrance that's been around for quite some time. Indeed, there can be discrepancies in launch dates, as different sources might provide varying information, but Maurice Thibond is indeed credited with its creation. It's fascinating how fragrances can evolve over time and sometimes take on different names or variations.

ON EBAY: Ambré des Pagodes by Lydes Perfume c1919

ON EBAY THIS WEEK: Ambré des Pagodes by Lydes Perfume Bottle from circa 1919. Bottle probably by SPV (Société Parisienne de Verreries) and not Viard. Lydes most famous presentation for this perfume featured a figural stopper on a fancy bottle, designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by Depinoix. The bottle shown in this listing is quite different and may either be a factice, or a dramming flacon for usage in the stores. I am unsure if it actually contains perfume inside as the seller says the stopper is frozen.

Ambre des Pagodes was still being sold until 1925, as I saw it still being advertised.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMBRE-DES-PAGODES-Lydes-Paris-1920s-HUGE-Vintage-Perfume-Bottle-Factice-Tester-/140918214977?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cf615141

Parfumerie de Luxe, Lydes of 29 rue Auguste Bailly, Courbevoie (Seine) France, established in 1918 by Eugene Philippe Rodier. Their most successful perfume was their first, Ambre des Pagodes, which interestingly did not bear the name Lydes (sometimes). The company became well known practically overnight and exported their luxurious presentations worldwide:

• 1919 L'Ambre des Pagodes
• 1922 Narcisse
• 1923 Les Jasmins de Lydes
• 1925 Diamant Noir
• 1925 L'Heure du Baiser
• 1927 Bibelot
• 1928 Dans la Chevelure
• 1928 La Fleur du Lac
• 1920s Arabian Passion

Complice de Francois Coty c1973

Francois Coty originally created Complice ('Accomplice') in 1934, but died before it could be launched. It remained on ice until 1973, when the Coty company launched it in a period design bottle. The name Complice was filed for trademark in 1939, company claimed use since 1938.

That's quite an interesting history! François Coty was a prominent figure in the world of perfumery. It's fascinating to see how Complice had such a prolonged journey from its conception in 1934 to its eventual launch almost four decades later. The fact that the name was filed for trademark in 1939, with the company claiming use since 1938, adds an intriguing layer to its backstory. It's a testament to the enduring appeal and significance of certain fragrances that they can transcend time and still find success when brought to market years later.

Passion by Elizabeth Taylor c1986

In 1986, Elizabeth Taylor licensed her name to a perfume company, the Parfums International division of Chesebrough-Ponds.

Shalimar by Guerlain c1925

Shalimar perfume was originally created in 1921 by Guerlain. It was re-released during the Art Deco Exhibition in Paris in 1925. I have separate blog posts on Shalimar bottles and its flanker scents on my Guerlain blog site.

Forever Amber by Kathryn/Kay Daumit c1945

Forever Amber by Kathryn, Inc (owned by Kay Daumit) launched in 1945 in connection with the 1943 novel by Kathleen Winsor. The novel tells the story of amorous courtesan Amber St. Clare in the court and bedroom of Charles II. The novel was banned in Boston and throughout Massachusetts, and the controversy over its purported indecency stimulated sales and became a bestseller . The book's popularity was further aided by the film version directed by Otto Preminger in 1947.

Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere c1987

The launch of "Bleu de Chine" perfume in 1987 occurred during a period marked by significant cultural exchange between China and the West. This era saw an increasing fascination with Chinese art, fashion, and cinema in Western societies. Films such as "The Last Emperor" (1987), which won multiple Oscars for its portrayal of Chinese imperial history, captured the imagination of audiences worldwide. In fashion, designers like Vivienne Tam and Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated Chinese motifs and silhouettes into their collections, reflecting a trend towards Eastern-inspired elegance. Moreover, in music, artists like David Bowie and Peter Gabriel began integrating Chinese instruments and melodies into their compositions, signaling a cross-cultural exchange in popular music.

The name "Bleu de Chine," translating to "Blue of China," carries with it a sense of exoticism and sophistication. Marc de la Morandiere likely chose this name to evoke the serene beauty and cultural richness associated with traditional Chinese ceramics and textiles, which often feature deep, vibrant shades of blue. This choice aligns with the perfume's aspiration to embody elegance and timeless allure, appealing to those who appreciate both the mystique of the East and the refinement of Western luxury.

"Bleu de Chine" makes a compelling name for a perfume due to its evocative nature. The color blue symbolizes tranquility and depth, qualities that are desirable in a fragrance meant to captivate and soothe the senses. Additionally, the reference to China adds an element of exotic allure and cultural richness, suggesting a perfume that promises both sophistication and a hint of mystery.

Women of the late 1980s would likely have related to a perfume called "Bleu de Chine" for its association with elegance and cultural sophistication. In a time when fashion and beauty trends were embracing diverse influences, a perfume named after a symbol of Eastern artistry would have appealed to those seeking to express their appreciation for global aesthetics and luxury.

Rudi Gernreich by Rudi Gernreich c1974

Rudi Gernreich, the iconic fashion designer, ventured into the world of fragrance with the launch of Rudi Gernreich perfume in 1974, in collaboration with American Essence, Inc. This olfactory masterpiece was brought to life through the creative genius of perfumer Betty Busse, with production entrusted to the esteemed International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF).

Rudi Gernreich was a renowned Austrian-American fashion designer celebrated for his bold, avant-garde designs and innovative approach to fashion. Born on August 8, 1922, in Vienna, Austria, he fled to the United States in 1938 to escape the Nazi regime. Settling in Los Angeles, Gernreich began his career in the fashion industry and quickly gained a reputation for his unconventional and progressive designs.

He is best known for his minimalist and futuristic aesthetic, often challenging societal norms and conventions. Some of his most famous creations include the monokini, a topless swimsuit that caused a sensation in the 1960s, and unisex clothing that blurred the lines between men's and women's fashion. Gernreich was a pioneer in promoting body positivity and freedom of expression through his work, making a lasting impact on the fashion world. He passed away on April 21, 1985, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and boundary-pushing design.

Halston Night by Halston c1980

Halston Night by Halston: launched in 1980.

Norell by Norell c1968

 Norell by Norell, launched in 1968 in collaboration with Revlon, was not merely a fragrance; it embodied the iconic designer Norman Norell's vision of American elegance and sophistication. Norman Norell, a titan in American fashion, was known for his meticulous attention to detail and commitment to timeless, refined styles. The choice to name the perfume "Norell" was a strategic one, reinforcing his brand's identity with simplicity and boldness. Pronounced "Nor-ELL," the name resonates with elegance and sophistication, evoking images of chic, well-dressed women in luxurious surroundings. For women in the late 1960s, a perfume labeled "Norell" carried the allure of wearing an American couture designer's creation, suggesting a lifestyle of polished glamour that mirrored Norell's fashion aesthetic.

The scent of Norell captures that same essence, crafted by renowned perfumer Josephine Catapano. This fragrance was a departure from the heavy, heady scents of previous decades, introducing a fresh, green floral profile that felt bold and modern. The fragrance opens with a burst of green, leafy notes—clean, crisp, and invigorating—an immediate breath of fresh air. In the heart, a bouquet of Bulgarian rose, jasmine absolute, and hyacinth adds a layered floral complexity, with touches of carnation spice lending depth and character. The scent settles into a warm, woody base where notes of sandalwood, oakmoss, amber, and musk create a lasting and sophisticated finish. The fragrance, as described by Norell, was designed to have a "kick," echoing the fresh, dynamic spirit of the era.

Tiffany by Tiffany & Co c1987

Tiffany by Tiffany and Company was presented in 1987, created by Francois Demachy.

Parfum Douka by Marquay c1949

The perfume "Parfum Douka" was launched in 1949, a time when the world was undergoing significant transformations and there was a growing fascination with African culture and exoticism. Post-World War II, there was a surge of interest in the arts, including film, fashion, home decor, and music, which often drew inspiration from African themes. This era saw the emergence of films such as "Tarzan" and "King Solomon's Mines," which romanticized the African landscape and captivated audiences with their adventurous narratives. In fashion, designers like Christian Dior were introducing collections that included bold patterns and earthy tones, reminiscent of African aesthetics.

"Parfum Douka" derives its name from Douka, Tieghemella africana, a type of wood also known as Makore wood, sometimes used in place of African Mahogany. Marquay's choice of this name likely stems from the luxurious and exotic connotations associated with rare African woods, and the sophisticated sound of "Parfum Douka." The name suggests a sense of elegance and prestige, aligning with the refined image Marquay sought to project.

As a perfume name, "Parfum Douka" evokes an air of mystery and allure, suggesting a rich, exotic experience. This would have resonated with women in 1949, who were increasingly drawn to products that offered a sense of adventure and escape. The name conjures images of vast African landscapes, majestic wildlife, and the natural beauty of the continent, appealing to a sense of romance and fantasy.

Women of the time would likely have responded enthusiastically to a perfume called "Parfum Douka," drawn by its promise of luxury and uniqueness. The name, with its exotic and noble implications, would make them feel sophisticated and worldly. This fascination with African themes was also evident in home decor trends, where items such as African masks, animal prints, and handcrafted wooden furniture became popular. In music, artists like Harry Belafonte were bringing African rhythms and instruments into the mainstream, further fueling the exotic allure.

The uniqueness of the name "Parfum Douka" sets it apart from more common floral or abstract names of the time. It is memorable and intriguing, inviting curiosity and desire. The name suggests not just a fragrance but an experience, promising an escape to an exotic world of luxury and elegance.

Interpreting "Parfum Douka," one might envision a product that embodies both sophistication and natural beauty, reflecting the allure of African exoticism. For women in 1949, "Parfum Douka" would represent more than just a perfume; it would be a symbol of elegance and adventure, encapsulating the essence of a distant, enchanting land. The name would evoke images of regal African landscapes and noble heritage, making it an ideal choice for a perfume meant to transport its wearer to a world of refined, exotic beauty.

Balalaïka by Lucien Lelong c1939

Balalaïka by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1939.

Privilege by Parfums Privilege c1986

Privilege by Parfums Privilege, launched in 1986, emerged during a time marked by a growing emphasis on luxury and individualism. This era was characterized by a fascination with opulence and exclusivity, reflecting a broader cultural shift towards celebrating personal success and sophisticated tastes. In the mid-1980s, the fragrance industry was embracing bold, distinctive scents that conveyed a sense of grandeur and personal distinction, making Privilege a fitting embodiment of these trends.

The word "privilege" itself evokes images of exclusivity and elite status. It conjures a sense of being part of a select group who are afforded rare and exceptional experiences. In the context of Privilege by Parfums Privilege, the term suggests a perfume that is not just a fragrance but a symbol of high status and refined taste. The press materials highlight this sentiment, portraying the scent as the essence of "glamorous elegance" and "splendor," reserved for those who possess an innate sense of style and sophistication. This portrayal aligns with the perfume's positioning as something extraordinarily special and coveted.

The fragrance is described as being "so rare, so subtly sumptuous, so refinedly elegant" that it is available only in limited quantities, intended for "the fortunate few." This language reinforces the notion of Privilege as an exclusive luxury, designed for those who appreciate the finest things in life. The emotion evoked is one of aspiration and admiration, suggesting that to wear Privilege is to embody a certain elite status and to experience a level of sophistication reserved for a select group. The perfume, thus, not only represents a scent but also a lifestyle and an ideal of exclusivity and refinement.

Jet by Corday c1924

Jet by Corday: launched in 1924. Originally named "Jet Parfume" from 1924 until around 1929.