Saturday, March 16, 2013

Donna Lee Perfumes

Donna Lee Perfumes was established around 1920 by Donna Lee Thompson. Known as the "Flower in the Bottle" Perfume shop. I think she partnered up with John Blocki, who was the originator of the "Flower in the Bottle" perfumes.

Popular products from Donna Lee are her:

  • Bouquet Deodorant

People with delicate sensibilities garnished their car with a device called the Donna Lee Automobile Disseminator— a porous vase guaranteed, according to Sears, to fill the car with a "faint clean odor of lavender." The Donna-Lee Automobile Disseminator. Made of a porous composition. An opening at the top holds a small quantity of liquid perfume which is absorbed by the porous vase in 5 minutes.



La Fleur Perfume Plaquettes
A novel and most delightful manner of imparting to Lingerie, Kerrchiefs, and Linens, the elusive fragrance so desired by women of refinement. The Purchaser is cautioned against inferior imitations made in the same design but of Plaster of Paris. La Fleur Placquettes are made of a special composition the formula which is secret, Their unique composition causes the Odeur to endure indefinitely. To revive odeur pour on a few drops of La Fleur Oil. This is a Pure Oil and is not diluted with alcohol. Persons of discrimination will note the consummate effect of La Fleur and will not be mislead by imitations. Remember! There are none genuine without the label- La Fleur Placquettes.

“When my Fragrance lessens,
put me in a Cup,
Pour on Donna Lee Perfume.
See me drink it up!
All that’s left pour back with Heed,
Cork and keep for future need!”

“Mind Your Linens
and your Laces,
Tuck this little Gift away;
For a long while may the traces of
its dainty fragrance stay,-
and whenever you scent or see,
turn a happy thought to me!”


Her perfumes were sold at three locations:

  • 17 N. State Street Chicago
  • Suite 1515, Stevens Building, Chicago
  • Fifield's store at 816 Nicolette Ave, Chicago



Her perfumes were still being sold in 1933.



A 1920 ad reads:

"Complete Line of Toilet Requisites and Perfumes 
Look for the Flower in the Bottle
Donna Lee Thompson "

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Charme Caressant by Dalon c1924

Dalon was established in Paris in 1924 and was affiliated to Pleville, NYAL (Rexall).

Pleville was established by Michel Pleville in 1922 at 38 rue des Mathurins, Paris.

Dalon relaunched Pleville’s 1923 perfume Charme Caressant in 1924, using a new bottle.

Pleville released the perfume Charme Caressant again in 1925 under a new name of Jardin d'Or.

Charme Caressant. This perfume takes it’s name from a cosmetic and toiletry line from Dalon. The line included perfume extract/parfum, face powder in five shades, brilliantine liquid for the hair, vanishing cream, rouge in five shades, toilet water, lipstick in four shades and compacts.
"CHARME CARESSANT BEAUTY PRODUCTS: CHARME CARESSANT FACE POWDER—What entrancing perfume in this exquisite Face Powder. Coupled with the velvety softness of the powder this fragrant perfume has made Charme Caressant the favourite of discerning women. You will like it, too, because it ' clings.' When applied over a foundation of CHARME CARESSANT VANISHING CREAM it will stay on for hours. Dust on liberally with a full puff, then brush off to your liking. Offered in five shades — Rachel, Naturelle, Olive, Suntan, and Blanche. 2/6 and 4/6 a box. CHARME CARESSANT ROUGE—CHARME CARESSANT ROUGE is thrilling ! Petal soft, faintly perfumed, and most important of all, offered in four natural skin tones— Crushed Rose, Orangette, Radiant, and Raspberry. 1/9 a box"

Bottles:

The milky green bottle covered in a faux shagreen pattern shown below was made by Andre Jollivet in two sizes for the parfum extract for Charme Caressant by Dalon.  


photo by Perfume Bottles Auction


The toilet water bottle shown below is made up of clear glass, it was not made by Jollivet.



photo by dencheres.fr







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.  It was still being sold in 1941 as evidenced from a newspaper ad.

Vintage 1920s Aladin by Rosine Luxury Edition Perfume Bottle

Antique 1920s Aladin by Rosine Luxury Edition Commercial Perfume Bottle

introduced in 1919

Fragrance Name: Aladin. Based on the character in The Thousand and One Nights, Aladdin. The oriental style perfume's composition was blended from aldehydes, incense, sandalwood and musk. The name Aladin was trademarked for perfume on May 28, 1919 and was introduced in a magnificent presentation reflecting Paul Poiret's life as the so-called "Pasha of Paris". Aladin perfume was probably discontinued around 1930.


Perfume Company: Rosine

Les Parfums de Rosine were established in 1911 by designer Paul Poiret with his wife Denise at 107 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. Rosine sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics as fitting accessories for his avant garde fashions. The company was named after Poiret's eldest daughter. Many artists and illustrators worked for Rosine. Poiret lost financial control around 1925 and the business was later acquired by Societe Centrale de la Parfumerie Francais (L. Legrand) in 1930 and managed by Madame Nevarte Cordero. Most of the existing Rosine perfumes were produced until the 1950s in standard presentations.

Poiret's perfumes were created with the help of the perfumer-glassmaker Maurice Schaller, and later with the celebrated Almeras.

The perfume bottles for Rosine were produced by Depinoix and Lefebure et Cie as well as Poiret's own companies Atelier Colin & Atelier Martine. Most of the bottles were hand painted at Atelier Martine. The packaging of his perfumes resembled the look and materials of his fashions, with great emphasis on vivid colors, opulent textures and harlequin and Oriental lampshade patterns.

A 1918 newspaper article in the Pittsburgh Press reads:



"The Scents of Rosine are the unique perfumes of Paul Poiret Paris each one intended to express by its odor and the character of the package, some tradition or emotion. They are coveted by women who desire the exclusive and individual in toilet requisites, and are found in our Toilet Goods Section, in their various attractive forms. Joseph Horne & Co."




Interesting side note: Actress Evelyn Brent owned a Aladin by Rosine perfume bottle, as evidenced in a photo of her perfume bottle collection in 1930.

Bottle Origin: France.

Description: Pewter or similar metal perfume flacon inspired by a Middle Eastern flacon from the Medieval period, rectangular section, rounded shoulders identically cast front and back with "Aladin, Rosine" and with two confrontational mythical creatures. Each shoulder is cast with a protruding loop, pierced in the middle to connect with the loop of a steel chain. Clear crystal faceted stopper, a replacement. This bottle is the luxury edition, the regular version is made up of clear and frosted glass with a Bakelite button stopper. The bottle has is cast with the legend "Aladin . Rosine" and the verso has a legend that reads "Paris . France".

Markings: Base has several labels: "Aladin Parfum", "Rosine" and "Paris France"

Measurements: bottle stands nearly 3" tall.

Condition: excellent, missing original stopper.

References:


Perfume Presentations-100 Years of Artistry by Ken Leach
Phillips Perfume Presentations Auction Catalog 1998
Phillips Perfume Presentations Auction Catalog 2000
Masterpieces of the Perfume Industry by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
The Art of Perfume by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
Art & Fragrances Perfume Presentations Auction Catalog 2000
Rago Art & Auction Center, November 2003,(sold for $400 with original stopper)
Von Zezschwitz Art & Design Auctions, October 2005, (sold for $1040 without stopper)
Aristocratic Auction Services, June 23, 2012: sold for $3,750 (with box and original stopper)




Not the original stopper!

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Climat by Lancome c1967

Climat by Lancôme: launched in 1967. Created by by Gerard Goupil of Robertet Perfumers. This fragrance takes its name from the well-known eponymous novel by French author André Maurois. The English translation of “Climats de Lancome” is "ambience of Lancome.”


Myon Perfumes

Myon was a luxury perfume house founded in 1928 by a man named Simon Jaroslawski (also known as Simon A. Jaroslawski-Fioret) and went into liquidation in the 1940s. His other two perfumery companies are Fioret and Ybry.

Maderas de Oriente by Myrurgia c1918

Maderas de Oriente by Myrurgia: launched in 1918 . The line included perfume extract, perfumed lotion (much like a concentrated cologne), soap and face powder.

Monday, February 25, 2013

Chas. A. Stevens

Chas A. Stevens was a Chicago department store. It started in 1886 as a catalog business and eventually grew to 29 locations in the Chicago metropolitan area. In 1988 the chain filed for bankruptcy and liquidated.


Florient by Colgate c1912

Florient by Colgate was launched in 1912. The perfume was subtitled "Flowers of the Orient".








Sunday, February 24, 2013

Evelyn Brent's Perfume Collection

Actress Evelyn Brent was known for her love of perfume bottles, although she stated she didn't wear perfume. During two 1930s interviews, she claimed to have 147 bottles, another claimed 500! The star's boudoir featured a special three tiered glass cabinet in which she displayed her flacons. Also displayed amongst her bottles are the fragile glass animals by the Bimini glassblowers. You can see these at the corner closest to her face, a white swan stands up regally amongst the other fauna.



Oriza L. Legrand Perfumes




Brief History:

Oriza L. Legrand of 11 place de la Madeleine,Paris.

Established in 1811 by L. Legrand after purchasing formulas from descendants of Fargeon, the perfumer to the then 10 year old Louis XV. The business was purchased in 1860 by Antonin Raynaud and subsequently succeeded by his widow. The business was later purchased by Armand Schul around 1910 and was later known as Societe Centrale de la Parfumerie Francaise.In the 19th century, Legrand was the court perfumers to Napoleon III, and the British, Russian and Italian royalty.

The company had two major innovations during the 19th century, with the 1879 introduction Parfumerie Oriza and the patent in 1887 for solid perfumes. This first commercial solid perfume was named "Essence Oriza Solidifiee". The Parfumerie Oriza was Legrand's first perfume line and included related cosmetics and toiletries under one name with coordinated graphics. This line was so successful that the company became known as Oriza-Legrand.

L. Legrand was a successful company and won the gold medal in the 1889 Exhibition and the Grand Prix in the 1900 Exhibition.

The company produced luxury perfumes. Perhaps the most notable was for Fin Comme l'Ambre in 1913, with a Baccarat bottle made up of clear & frosted crystal with molded heads of lions. Other Baccarat flacons were made for Fleuri, and Kadidja.

Enameled flacon by Baccarat (unsigned) circa 1915,by 1920, it held various scents such as Chypre Mousse, Cyclamen, Jasmin d'Asie, Lilas rose, Muguet Fleuri, Oeillet de la Reine, Rose du Roi and Violette Fleur.

In 1930 the company acquired Rosine Parfums.


The perfumes of Oriza L. Legrand:
  • 1862 Aux Violettes du Czar 
  • 1879 Essence Oriza 
  • 1886 Concretes des Essences Oriza 
  • 1886 Foin Fraîche Coupe 
  • 1886 Heliotrope Blanc 
  • 1886 Jockey Club Bouquet 
  • 1886 Lilas de Mai 
  • 1886 Opoponax 
  • 1887 Oriza Lys 
  • 1887 Essence Oriza Solidifiee 
  • 1890 Orizine 
  • 1893 Datura Indien 
  • 1896 Violettes du Czar pour le mouchoir (reissued) 
  • 1898 Funkia du Japon 
  • 1899 Caroline Bouquet 
  • 1899 Imperatrice Bouquet 
  • 1899 Jasmin d’Espagne 
  • 1899 Mignardise Bouquet 
  • 1899 New Mown Hay 
  • 1899 Oriza Derby Bouquet 
  • 1900 Actana 
  • 1900 Duchess 
  • 1900 Gardenia Flore 
  • 1900 Idole 
  • 1900 Inspiration 
  • 1900 Parfums Noveaux au Royal-Œillet 
  • 1900 Relique d'Amour 
  • 1900 Doubles Violettes du Czar 
  • 1900 Doubles Violettes du Czech 
  • 1900 Age D'Or 
  • 1900 Rêve d’Ossian 
  • 1900 Violette Comme it Faut 
  • 1900 Violettes Prince Albert 
  • 1900 Royal Legrand Eau de Toilette 
  • 1900 Apotheose 
  • 1902 Soleil de Minuit 
  • 1907 Parma Violet 
  • 1907 Parfum de l'Aigle Russe 
  • 1909 Œillet Louis XV 
  • 1911 Poema 
  • 1912 Armide 
  • 1913 Fin Comme l'Ambre 
  • 1913 Zelmis 
  • 1914 Chypre Mousse 
  • 1914 L'Yperlée 
  • 1914 Parfum des Jardins d'Armide 
  • 1914 Jasmin d'Aise 
  • 1915 Fleuri 
  • 1918 Armistice 
  • 1920 L'Ambre 
  • 1920 Chypre 
  • 1920 Floralis 
  • 1920 Violette Fleur 
  • 1920 Rose du Roi 
  • 1920 Oeillet de la Reine 
  • 1920 Secret Joly 
  • 1920 Muguet Fleuri 
  • 1920 Kadidja 
  • 1920 L'Horizon 
  • 1920 Ouarda 
  • 1920 Hermione 
  • 1922 Deja le Printemps 
  • 1923 Le Bon Ton 
  • 1923 Rose 
  • 1925 Cyclamen 
  • 1925 Eventail 
  • 1925 Gardenia 
  • 1925 Venise 
  • 1926 Lilas Rose 
  • 1926 Breath of Spring 
  • 1928 Marions-Nous 
  • 1929 Camelia du Nile 
  • 1932 Soleil de Minuit (relaunch) 
  • Balkis 
  • Bouquet de Breaulieu 
  • Mimosa Dore 
  • Parfum Anniversaire 
  • Stilliflore














Do not confuse perfumes of Oriza L. Legrand with those of Hector Legrand, these companies are not related in any way. This company was established in 1856 at 118 rue Henry-Litolff, Bois Colombes (Seine). The proprietor in the early 20th century was J. Caron and produced small luxury perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. Best known for the 1920 presentation of Eglantine de la Reine with the tiara bottle manufactured by Lalique.

Welcome!

This is not your average perfume blog. In each post, I present perfumes or companies as encyclopedic entries with as much facts and photos as I can add for easy reading and researching without all the extraneous fluff or puffery.

Please understand that this website is not affiliated with any of the perfume companies written about here, it is only a source of reference. I consider it a repository of vital information for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. Updates to posts are conducted whenever I find new information to add or to correct any errors.

One of the goals of this website is to show the present owners of the various perfumes and cologne brands that are featured here how much we miss the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances!

Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table, did you like the bottle design), who knows, perhaps someone from the company brand might see it.

Also, if you have any information not seen here, please comment and share with all of us.

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