Prince Henri d'Orleans

Prince Henri d'Orleans of Paris, France.

The Skin Game, 1989:

"It was designed for the Prince Pierre Henri d'Orleans who, if there was a king in France, would be "le Comte de Paris". This distinguished gentleman had decided to launch a fragrance under his own great family name, and as the d'Orleans crest bears the emblem of the fleurs-de- lys the fragrance was to be called "Lys Bleu". 'On the bottle, which was shaped like a jewel,' Pierre Dinand added sarcastically, 'were the words "designe par le Prince Pierre Henri d'Orleans." Almost a royal warrant!' The Prince however, apparently believed that the scent would be successful on snob value alone. 'I thought the whole idea was cuckoo,' Dinand remembers. 'The fragrance was launched in the year that Mitterrand and the socialist Left came to power — so the King of France image was not a good idea! It was like calling a fragrance Charles I in England.' According to Dinand, the company marketing the fragrance had to accept defeat. 'They sold "Lys Bleu" off to another company."

Applied Chemistry c1992

In 1992, design partners Sandra Higashi and Byron Glaser of King George County created a “chemistry set” for adults. Something fun that could ignite the old human chemistry, but look like scientific stuff. Something like a make-your-own perfume kit, but with a New Age twist.

The result is "APpLiEd CHeMiStRY", a square, gunmetal-gray box with five test tubes of perfume nestled inside. There’s X2C, a bouquets of white florals; IM4U, an earthy mix of musk with floral undertones; and HeHe, essence of tropical fruit with melon undertones.

The others are Y, hyacinth with Oriental notes, and OoAh, which is “aquilaria agallocha with woody notes. (It’s basically aloe)

The scents come with some tongue-in-cheek recipes, or “CoNcOcTiOnS.”
It’s fun. It’s folklore.

APpLiEd CHeMiStRY is designed to look like an old-fashioned kid’s chemistry set, and the labeling, with upper and lower case letter, is a takeoff on the look of chemical equations, The test tubes inside are real ones, ordered from a chemical supply company.

APpLiEd CHeMiStRY was sold at upscale boutiques and museum shops around the world.
I do not know how many ounces are in each tube. Each tube measures approximately 3.25" including black cap and rubber dropper.  Applied Chemistry was thoughtfully conceived, simply and elegantly designed, and flawlessly manufactured.


A Little Ooah, A Little X2c...it Makes Scents, August 26, 1992:

"Madame Curie would have loved this: A chemistry set for cologne connoisseurs. Packaged in a metal case, Applied Chemistry contains five test tubes of fragrance oils: IM4U (musk with floral undertones); OoAh (a woodsy scent); X2C (white florals); HeHe (tropical fruits) and Y (Oriental). Although the scents can be used alone, the whole idea is to whip up your own perfume potions. A book of recipes is included to get you going including instructions for warding off bad luck, attracting the opposite sex and mending a broken heart. 

Applied Chemistry sells for $48 at Chiasso stores, 700 N. Michigan Ave. and 303 W. Madison St."

all images from ebay seller stellamae17

Danger by Ciro c1938

Danger by Ciro: launched in 1938.

 

Gourielli

Established in 1941 by Helena Rubinstein who was married to Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia, a Russian prince from Georgia . Princess Gourielli (Helena Rubinstein) opened the Gourielli Shop, an old fashioned brownstone front on E. 55th Street, Manhattan, that she turned into a fabulous cosmetic emporium selling old apothecary recipes combined with new scientific formulas.  The shop combined several different decorative themes which combined Old Apothecary, Early American, Victorian American, Modern and Mexican.

Bernard Lalande

Parfums Bernard Lalande of Paris, France. Active in the 1980s-1990s. Available only at French airports as souvenir perfume sets.  Traded under the name S.A.R.L. Etablissements Bernard Lalande. He produced Men's Toilet Water, After-Shave Lotions, Deodorants for Men, and Perfumes. Today, no one owns the trademark.

The bottles were made by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, the marking is "SGD" on the base of the bottle.  Some bottles were designed by Pierre Dinand.

The mini bottles are clear glass squares with plastic caps. The caps have a plug inside to keep the perfumes from leakage during travel.

• Parfum Jasmin (sweetened jasmine, oakmoss, sandalwood, other light florals such as lilac)
• Parfum Ambre (at first sniff - it smells a lot like Shalimar to me, heavy on the ambergris, opoponax, benzoin and vanilla-- beautiful)
• Parfum Vert (green galbanum freshness, light floral scent, oakmoss some animalic notes)
• Parfum Boise (woodsy notes of cedar and sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver on amber, incense and spices)

These actually smell very nice to me with complex dry downs and not cheap or shrill smelling notes.


Sometimes you can find a figural Eiffel Tower bottle filled with the scent Bleu de France. The bottle was made up of frosted and clear glass and was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1989 celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Eiffel Tower's construction.

The perfumes of Bernard Lalande:

• Bleu de France
• La France
• Bleu de France Pour Homme
• Pastel de France
• Parfum Jasmine 
• Parfum Ambre 
• Parfum Vert 
• Parfum Muguet 
• Parfum Irise 
• Parfum Tuberuse 
• Parfum Chypre 
• Parfum Boise
• Parfum Rose
• Parfum Tubereuse

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Zibeline by Weil c1927

In 1927, Marcel Weil of Les Fourrures Weil created Parfums Weil with their advertisements of “perfumes for furs”. These were based on a direct request from a regular client for a perfume suitable for wearing on furs. These were their first commercial perfumes that were advertised would guarantee not to harm the furs.

In 1928 the four perfumes inspired by fur themes were launched: Chinchilla Royal, Hermine (ermine), Une Fleur pour Fourrure (A Flower for Furs) and Zibeline (Sable) were favorites from the start. All of these perfumes were created by Claude Fraysse.

c1928

Louis D'Or

Louis D'Or produced their own versions of popular perfumes of the 1960s and 1970s. The company was located in Northridge, California and not imported from France as some of its advertisements claimed.

Oftentimes you can tell what the Louis D'Or fragrance is trying to copy by looking at the the style of font or colors on the label. For instance, his Tattoo perfume's label is very similar to the one used for Tabu by Dana,

My Sin by Lanvin c1924

The design house of Lanvin was among the first to present a perfume as part of a collection. My Sin was created in 1924 and first sold and trademarked in Paris under the name Mon Péché by Lanvin.

"A perfume of enchantment - of enthrallment...My Sin holds enticing charm for the delights which are to come. Smart women are always fond of My Sin's complimentary chic..."

Fracas by Robert Piguet c1945

Fracas by Robert Piguet: launched in 1945, in USA by 1948. Created by Germaine Cellier.

Terre de Retz Powder Boxes c1920s

"Terre de Retz" was a line of face powder sold by the Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris, The face powder was housed inside papier mache or composition powder boxes molded in various forms from historical figures to sailing ships. Richly painted in dreamy pastels or bold primary colors, these fanciful boxes adorned boudoirs during the 1920s.

c1927 ad