Bertae

Bertae seems to have been one of those short-lived American perfume companies that utilized a vaguely French sounding name and only released one perfume, Narcissus. Narcissus, launched in 1927, was a line that included perfume and  toilet water, face powder, cold cream, talcum powder and bath salts. The perfume proved to be very popular and was sold until around 1934.

Padisha by Weil c1922

Padisha by Weil: launched in 1922, as a gift to special clients. It was later relaunched  for public sale in 1947.

Embrujo de Sevilla by Myrurgia c1933

"Embrujo de Sevilla," launched in 1933 by Myrurgia, emerged during the Great Depression, a period marked by economic hardship and a yearning for escapism. The early 1930s were characterized by global financial instability, widespread unemployment, and social unrest. During these challenging times, luxuries like perfume offered a form of affordable indulgence and a way to momentarily transcend the daily struggles. The allure of Seville, a city steeped in rich history and romance, provided the perfect backdrop for such a product, promising a sensory escape to a more exotic and enchanting world.

Seville, the capital of Andalusia in southern Spain, is renowned for its vibrant cultural heritage, stunning architecture, and lush gardens. The city's history is a tapestry woven with influences from various civilizations, including the Romans, Moors, and Christians. Landmarks like the majestic Seville Cathedral, the Giralda tower, and the Alcázar palace with its beautiful Mudejar architecture, are emblematic of Seville's storied past. The city is also famous for its passionate flamenco music and dance, vibrant festivals like Feria de Abril, and the intoxicating aroma of orange blossoms from its many gardens.

Films of the era, such as "Blood and Sand" (1922) and its remake in 1941, showcased the romantic and exotic allure of Spain, with themes of passionate love, bullfighting, and the picturesque Spanish landscapes. These films played into the public's fascination with romanticized views of Spanish culture, making the setting of Seville an appealing and evocative choice for a perfume.

Myrurgia's choice of the name "Embrujo de Sevilla," which translates to "The Spell of Seville" in Spanish, cleverly captures the essence of this captivating city. The word "embrujo" conveys enchantment, magic, and allure, evoking a sense of mystery and seduction. This makes "Embrujo de Sevilla" an excellent name for a perfume, as it promises an enchanting and transformative experience for the wearer.

Crescendo by Lanvin c1958

Launched in 1958, Crescendo by Lanvin entered the fragrance market during a period of post-war optimism and burgeoning modernity. The 1950s were characterized by a blend of traditional elegance and emerging innovation in the perfume industry. Iconic fragrances like Dior's Miss Dior (1947) and Chanel No. 5 (1921, but continuously popular) were celebrated for their classic compositions, while new trends began to favor more complex and adventurous scents. The floral oriental classification of Crescendo placed it among the sophisticated and richly layered perfumes that appealed to the era's evolving tastes.

Lanvin's choice of the name "Crescendo" is both evocative and symbolic. The word "crescendo," derived from Italian, refers to a gradual increase in volume or intensity in music. In the context of perfume, it suggests a fragrance that unfolds and intensifies over time, revealing its complexity in layers. This concept would resonate deeply with women in the late 1950s, who were increasingly embracing modernity, sophistication, and depth in their personal style and life choices.

Women of the time would likely respond to Crescendo with enthusiasm and appreciation for its nuanced composition and evocative name. The word "Crescendo" conjures images of rising emotions, building intensity, and a harmonious blend of notes, much like a musical composition. It evokes a sense of anticipation and excitement, mirroring the progressive and optimistic spirit of the era. The imagery associated with Crescendo would be one of elegance, grace, and a powerful, yet controlled, allure.

Interpreted in relation to perfume, "Crescendo" implies a scent experience that starts subtly and grows more pronounced and captivating as it develops on the skin. It suggests a dynamic fragrance journey, where each layer of notes builds upon the previous one to create a symphony of aromas. For women in 1958, wearing Crescendo would be akin to embarking on an olfactory journey that mirrors their own life's crescendo—full of growth, complexity, and beauty.

The name also hints at a sense of drama and performance, aligning perfectly with the cultural backdrop of the time, where cinema, theater, and music were flourishing. Crescendo by Lanvin, therefore, not only offered a luxurious and sophisticated fragrance but also encapsulated the excitement and dynamic changes of the era, making it a memorable and fitting choice for the modern woman of the late 1950s.

Parfums Forvil

Parfums Forvil, located at 1 rue de Castiglione in Paris, France, is a fragrance house with a storied history that began in 1922. The company was initially established by Leo Fink under the name Forval, a moniker that reflected its early ambitions in the perfume industry. Situated in one of Paris's most prestigious and bustling districts, Forval's early operations were marked by a dedication to creating sophisticated and luxurious fragrances, catering to the refined tastes of the era.

In 1923, a significant change occurred when Forval was acquired by La Société Anonyme les Dentifrices du Docteur Pierre Mussot, a renowned dental hygiene company founded in 1837 by Dr. Pierre Mussot. This acquisition marked a new chapter for the fragrance house, which was rebranded as Forvil. The new name, Forvil, signified not only a continuation of the company’s original vision but also a fresh alignment with the Mussot family's long-standing reputation for quality and innovation in personal care products.

The move to rename and reestablish the company as Forvil under Mussot's influence likely brought a new level of prestige and resources, facilitating its expansion and evolution within the perfume industry. The Parisian location at 1 rue de Castiglione remained a central hub for the brand, further cementing its status in the heart of France's capital city. Over the years, Forvil developed a reputation for crafting elegant and memorable fragrances, contributing to its enduring legacy in the world of perfumery.

Dune by Christian Dior c1991

Dune by Christian Dior: created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Dominique Ropion and Nejla Bsiri-Barbir under the guidance of Maurice Roger and was launched in 1991 (in USA in 1992).

Rapture by Victoria's Secret c1992

Rapture by Victoria`s Secret: launched in 1992.

Antique Ebony and Sterling Vanity Sets

In the late Victorian era up until around 1920, ebony wood vanity sets were very popular amongst men and women alike. Usually these utilitarian items were fitted with sterling silver mountings that could be monogrammed. 

You could find trays (dresser trays, pin trays, comb trays), hand mirrors, powder shakers, perfume bottles, perfume atomizers, hatpin holders, combs, ring holder/tree, all sorts of brushes (hair brushes, clothes brushes, military brushes, toothbrushes, bonnet brushes, curved hat brushes), jars or boxes (hair receivers, powder jars, salve jars, rouge jar, hair pin boxes), glove stretcher, curling irons, buttonhooks, shoe horns, manicure implements (nail buffers, nail files, cuticle knives, tweezers, nail brushes, corn knives) sewing implements (thimbles, bobbins, needle cases, awls, thread winders, sock darners, pin cushion, etc), clock, candlesticks, travel sets in cases and more, all fitted with ebony backings, bases, lids or handles.

Fabrics, Fancy Goods and Notions - Volume 46. 1912:

"WOODS USED IN THE MAKING OF MIRRORS - The variety of woods which are used in the manufacture of toilet mirrors is practically limitless. The most expensive, ebony is to all other woods what gold is to the metals - first in wide spread popularity. Comparatively few people. however. are conversant upon the subject of ebony. They do not know. for instance. that there are several grades of it used commercially/ The best is known as Gaboon Ebony. This is very black, marked by fine gray streaks, and is extremely brittle. It grows in equatorial Africa;, is cut into logs four feet long; carried on the heads of black slaves for upwords of a hundred miles to the coast, where it is dumped into the sea, sinking, and afterwards fished out and loaded on vessels for exportation/ It has the appearance of dilapidated rail road ties when bought, and is, therefore subject to considerable waste. Macassar, found in South and Central America, is the next highest grade of ebony. The best specimens come from the Brazilian jungles. It is characterized by beautiful streaks of yellow and brown, and is used chiefly for our Natural Ebony products. It is also known as Turtle Ebony. Other good grades of ebony grow in Jamaica, Madagascar, the Isle of Pines, and the Philippine Islands."

Most of the ebony was imported from Africa and into France and the sterling pieces were applied in the USA. The little sterling silver appliques are clearly marked "Sterling." Items can be found marked with "Ebony", "Made in England, "Made in France", "Real Ebony", and "Genuine Ebony." Oftentimes, only the larger pieces in a set are marked, other times, smaller pieces were made up of black tinted celluloid, Bakelite, or as with earlier pieces, "Bois Durci". In 1907, "wooden and "bois durci" articles: Brushes - mounted in silver, in boxes...." were noted in The Canada Gazette.

Bois Durci was an early plastic molding material based on cellulose. It was patented in Paris and  England in 1855, by Francois Charles Lepage. Lepage claimed in his patent that he had invented "A new composition of materials which may be employed as a substitute for wood, leather, bone, metal and other hard or plastic substances."

Bois Durci was made from finely ground wood 'flour' and mixed with a natural animal derived binder, either egg or blood albumen or gelatine, animal waste products leftover from the Parisian slaughterhouses. Wood from ebony or rosewood was ground to a very fine powder, with a flour-like consistency. Once mixed with a binder and some black dye, the mixture is dried, powdered again and placed in a steel mold where it was compressed in a powerful hydraulic press whilst being heated by steam. The final product has a highly polished finish imparted by the surface of the steel mold, and the natural wood powder, provided a black or brown result. 

Lepage's patent referred to small household items, such as combs, pipe stems, etc. The Societe du Bois Durci was established to produce desk items, especially decorative inkwell stands and plaques. The factory was at Grenelle in Paris and products were sold through A. Latry & Cie. of 7 Rue du Grand-Chantier, (Au Marais) in Paris. By the end of the 20th century, the firm had been taken over by MIOM (La Manufacture d’Isolants et Objets Moulés) which was founded in 1898. They continued to make Bois Durci until about 1920, by which time it had been superseded by newer plastics materials, such as bakelite.

It is not known when the production of "Bois Durci" objects, in Paris, was discontinued. However, it is known that another factory was established in 1883 in Sezanne by members of the Hunebelle family. This factory used the same material to produce very similar items. Although stylistically similar, it is almost certain that none of the molds from Paris were used in Sezanne. The Sezanne factory continued in production, manufacturing items in both the Belle Epoque and Art Nouveau style until the factory was destroyed by fire in 1926.

Also in Sezanne,  at the Department of Marne, in 1899, Mr. A. Arnoult said that he controlled the manufacture in France of "bois durci," or wood pulp hardened by chemical manipulation and that he knew of no other house engaged in the fabrication. Arnoult claimed that the manufacture of bois durci was "not important" on the "account of the great expense of the outfit," "the difficulty of having the wood, entirely uniform in hardness, grain and age at time of use, which is necessary to produce proper results," and the "difficulty of procuring suitable workmen." He mentioned that the "nearest approach to the bois durci is the caoutchouc durci," and names are given of two house in France engaged in this manufacture. The product is probably the same as the vulcanized rubber of the United States."

You can see images below, shown in advertisements from the 1907 Fort Dearborn Watch & Clock Co. Catalog, Chicago, Il.

Jungle Gardenia by Tuvache c1932

Jungle Gardénia (Original) by Tuvache was launched in 1932, relaunched in 1957.

Tabu by Dana c1932

In this guide I will introduce you to the sensual world of Tabu perfume by Dana. Tabu was created in 1932 by Jean Carles in response to a request made to him instructing him to create a perfume that a prostitute would wear, also known as "un parfum de puta".