Parfum Douka by Marquay c1949

The perfume "Parfum Douka" was launched in 1949, a time when the world was undergoing significant transformations and there was a growing fascination with African culture and exoticism. Post-World War II, there was a surge of interest in the arts, including film, fashion, home decor, and music, which often drew inspiration from African themes. This era saw the emergence of films such as "Tarzan" and "King Solomon's Mines," which romanticized the African landscape and captivated audiences with their adventurous narratives. In fashion, designers like Christian Dior were introducing collections that included bold patterns and earthy tones, reminiscent of African aesthetics.

"Parfum Douka" derives its name from Douka, Tieghemella africana, a type of wood also known as Makore wood, sometimes used in place of African Mahogany. Marquay's choice of this name likely stems from the luxurious and exotic connotations associated with rare African woods, and the sophisticated sound of "Parfum Douka." The name suggests a sense of elegance and prestige, aligning with the refined image Marquay sought to project.

As a perfume name, "Parfum Douka" evokes an air of mystery and allure, suggesting a rich, exotic experience. This would have resonated with women in 1949, who were increasingly drawn to products that offered a sense of adventure and escape. The name conjures images of vast African landscapes, majestic wildlife, and the natural beauty of the continent, appealing to a sense of romance and fantasy.

Women of the time would likely have responded enthusiastically to a perfume called "Parfum Douka," drawn by its promise of luxury and uniqueness. The name, with its exotic and noble implications, would make them feel sophisticated and worldly. This fascination with African themes was also evident in home decor trends, where items such as African masks, animal prints, and handcrafted wooden furniture became popular. In music, artists like Harry Belafonte were bringing African rhythms and instruments into the mainstream, further fueling the exotic allure.

The uniqueness of the name "Parfum Douka" sets it apart from more common floral or abstract names of the time. It is memorable and intriguing, inviting curiosity and desire. The name suggests not just a fragrance but an experience, promising an escape to an exotic world of luxury and elegance.

Interpreting "Parfum Douka," one might envision a product that embodies both sophistication and natural beauty, reflecting the allure of African exoticism. For women in 1949, "Parfum Douka" would represent more than just a perfume; it would be a symbol of elegance and adventure, encapsulating the essence of a distant, enchanting land. The name would evoke images of regal African landscapes and noble heritage, making it an ideal choice for a perfume meant to transport its wearer to a world of refined, exotic beauty.

Marilyn Monroe by East West Bottlers c1983

Marilyn Monroe by East West Bottlers, introduced in 1983, was a notable fragrance launch that celebrated the iconic allure of the Hollywood legend. This perfume was the result of a collaboration between East West Bottlers and Colorkit, in association with the Estate of Marilyn Monroe. The partnership aimed to encapsulate the glamorous and timeless essence of Monroe, translating her legendary presence into a scent that would resonate with fans and perfume enthusiasts alike.

Created by the esteemed perfumers at Givaudan, Marilyn Monroe was designed to evoke the sophistication and sensuality associated with its namesake. Givaudan, known for its expertise in crafting luxurious and complex fragrances, brought a refined olfactory experience to the perfume. The scent aimed to capture the essence of Monroe's enigmatic charm, combining classic elements with a contemporary twist to appeal to the perfume market of the early 1980s.

The fragrance’s launch was a strategic move to align Monroe's enduring celebrity with the trends of the time, which favored perfumes with strong personalities and evocative names. By leveraging the Marilyn Monroe brand, East West Bottlers and Colorkit positioned the fragrance as a tribute to the star's legacy, appealing to those who admired Monroe's style and charisma.

Overall, Marilyn Monroe by East West Bottlers stands as a testament to the successful fusion of celebrity culture with the fragrance industry, creating a perfume that honors a timeless icon while reflecting the sophisticated artistry of Givaudan’s perfumers.

Clandestine by Guy Laroche c1986

Introducing "Clandestine" by Guy Laroche, a fragrance born of a collaboration with L’Oréal, unveiled in 1986. Crafted by the skilled hands of perfumer Daniel Molière from Givaudan, this scent embodies timeless elegance and allure.

Trump Fragrances

This post is a response to one of my readers who wanted to know why I didn't list any of the Trump branded fragrances. I will be honest, I am not a supporter of the Trump family and over the years have weighed against adding this brief guide on the Trump Fragrances due to this personal feeling, however, when it comes to fragrances themselves, it is important that I continuously remain objective in posting about the brands. I am not here to tell you to wear or not wear this fragrance, that is your choice. All I can advise is that you make your choice at the voting booths :)

Vison by Robert Beaulieu c1986

In 1986, Robert Beaulieu unveiled "Vison," a fragrance that embodied elegance and sophistication. The name "Vison," derived from the French word for "mink," perfectly encapsulated the essence of luxury associated with the Parisian furrier. Crafted by the talented nose of Yves Tanguy, this scent became an instant classic, blending notes to evoke the opulence and allure of its namesake.

Robert Beaulieu, being a Parisian furrier, likely expanded his brand by venturing into the world of perfumery, adding fragrance to the list of luxury offerings associated with his name. This move would have allowed him to further cater to his clientele by providing them with not just luxurious fur products but also scents that complemented and enhanced their lifestyles. It's not uncommon for fashion and luxury brands to diversify into fragrance, as it allows them to extend their brand identity and reach a broader audience.

Tribecca by Paul Sebastian c1989

Tribeca by Paul Sebastian, introduced in 1989, is a lesser-known fragrance from the brand, which is more famous for its signature scent, Paul Sebastian Fine Cologne. The perfume is characterized by its sophisticated and unique blend, embodying the elegance and class associated with the Tribeca neighborhood in New York City.

Parfumerie Erizma

Erizma, established in 1885 by J. Bijon and created rare luxury presentations. They also were exporters to the far East. Erizma was a toiletry company making cosmetics, perfumes, soap, lotions and other products such as powders and depiliatories.

Natori Body Applique by Natori c1986

Introducing Natori Body Appliqué fragrance by Natori, a timeless masterpiece launched in 1986. Crafted by the renowned artisans at IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances), it embodies elegance and allure in every note.

Glorious by Gloria Vanderbilt c1988

 "Glorious" is a perfume by Gloria Vanderbilt that was launched in 1988. It's known for its rich, floral fragrance with notes of jasmine, rose, and amber. The perfume was quite popular in its time and remains a classic scent for many perfume enthusiasts.

Raks by André Barnwell c1995

Introducing "Räks" by André Barnwell, unveiled in 1995. The fragrance's name is pronounced "ROCKS," embodying a fusion of strength and elegance. Crafted by Givaudan (Roure), this scent captures a timeless essence, resonating with the spirit of its era.

La Nuit de Paco Rabanne c1985

La Nuit de Paco Rabanne, introduced in 1985, is a creation of perfumers Rosendo Mateu and Jean Guichard from Roure.

Rosendo Mateu, a renowned perfumer, has contributed to the creation of several notable fragrances. Some of his other creations include: Ysatis by Givenchy, Boucheron pour Femme by Boucheron, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, and Must de Cartier by Cartier. These are just a few examples of his extensive portfolio, showcasing his talent and versatility in the world of perfumery.

Jean Guichard, another esteemed perfumer, has also crafted various memorable fragrances throughout his career. Some of his other creations include: Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein, Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso, and Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent. These fragrances highlight Guichard's expertise and artistic flair in perfumery, contributing to a diverse range of iconic scents.

Both Rosendo Mateu and Jean Guichard collaborated on creating the iconic fragrance Fahrenheit by Dior.

Animale by Animale c1987

Introducing Animale by Animale, a fragrance that debuted in the illustrious year of 1987. Crafted in collaboration with the esteemed Suzanne de Lyon and brought to life by the master perfumers of Roure Bertrand.

Suzanne de Lyon, a renowned fragrance creator, has contributed to numerous iconic perfumes over the years. Some notable fragrances associated with her include:

• Chanel Cristalle (1974)
• Lancôme Magie Noire (1978)
• Chanel Coco (1984)
• Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (2001)
• Lancôme Trésor (1990)
• Lancôme Poême (1995)

These are just a few examples of her remarkable portfolio, showcasing her talent and creativity in the world of perfumery.

EPAS by Revlon c1975

In 1975, the Experimental Project Apollo-Soyuz (EPAS) was established to honor the groundbreaking first cooperative manned space flight. The fragrance, aptly named EPAS, was proposed by none other than Gehrman S. Titov, one of the esteemed pioneers of Soviet cosmonautics.

EPAS by Revlon, inspired by the visionary spirit of the Experimental Project Apollo-Soyuz, captures the essence of cosmic exploration in every scent.

Colour Scents by Revlon c1985

In 1985, Revlon unveiled an innovative woman's fragrance collection named Colour Scents. To simplify the selection process for customers, Revlon ingeniously crafted a groundbreaking concept intertwining colors, "special moods," and specific scents.

Rudi Gernreich by Rudi Gernreich c1974

Rudi Gernreich, the iconic fashion designer, ventured into the world of fragrance with the launch of Rudi Gernreich perfume in 1974, in collaboration with American Essence, Inc. This olfactory masterpiece was brought to life through the creative genius of perfumer Betty Busse, with production entrusted to the esteemed International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF).

Rudi Gernreich was a renowned Austrian-American fashion designer celebrated for his bold, avant-garde designs and innovative approach to fashion. Born on August 8, 1922, in Vienna, Austria, he fled to the United States in 1938 to escape the Nazi regime. Settling in Los Angeles, Gernreich began his career in the fashion industry and quickly gained a reputation for his unconventional and progressive designs.

He is best known for his minimalist and futuristic aesthetic, often challenging societal norms and conventions. Some of his most famous creations include the monokini, a topless swimsuit that caused a sensation in the 1960s, and unisex clothing that blurred the lines between men's and women's fashion. Gernreich was a pioneer in promoting body positivity and freedom of expression through his work, making a lasting impact on the fashion world. He passed away on April 21, 1985, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and boundary-pushing design.

Acte II by Escada c1995

Acte 2 by Escada, introduced circa 1995, is a masterpiece crafted by highly esteemed perfumer Ilias Ermenidis from Firmenich.

Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso c1984

Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso, introduced in 1984 in collaboration with L’Oreal, is also affectionately recognized as 'Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum.' Crafted by the talented nose of Francis Bocris from Creations Aromatiques, this exquisite fragrance was meticulously honed over two years, embodying timeless elegance and sophistication.

Francis Bocris is renowned for his olfactory artistry, having crafted several notable fragrances beyond Paloma Picasso. Some of his creations include:

Givenchy's Organza Indécence; Estée Lauder's Tuscany Per Donna; Parfums Salvador Dali's Daliflor; Elizabeth Taylor's Passion for Men; and Fragonard's Belle de Nuit. These perfumes showcase Bocris's diverse range and his ability to capture different moods and essences in scent form.

Berneux Parfumeur

Berneux Parfumeur, an elegant perfume house situated at 4 rue de la Paix in Paris and graced with a second luxurious location in Cap Martin on the picturesque Côte d'Azur, introduced a captivating collection of fragrances during the 1940s and 1950s. These perfumes embodied the glamour and sophistication of the post-war French Riviera, appealing to a clientele seeking refinement and elegance..

Nitchevo by Parfums Nitchevo c1972

Nitchevo by Parfums Nitchevo: Launched in 1972 in partnership with Juvena, Nitchevo reached Australia in 1974. The name "Nitchevo," derived from Russian, translates to "It doesn't matter" in English

Juvena, primarily known for its skincare products, has ventured into the fragrance industry through collaborations with various perfume houses. Although Juvena is not primarily a perfume brand, its partnerships with fragrance creators have allowed it to extend its expertise and reputation for quality into the realm of perfumery. One notable collaboration was with Parfums Nitchevo, where Juvena's involvement likely brought a refined approach to the development and marketing of the fragrance, leveraging its established brand identity and commitment to excellence in beauty products.

Caesars Woman by Caesars World c1988

Caesars Woman by Caesars Palace/Caesars World made its debut in 1988, inspired by the grandeur and refinement of ancient Roman living. This fragrance was a standout in the Caesars World collection, a project overseen by Jim Roth and David Horner, the creative minds behind the renowned Giorgio perfume. Known for their exacting standards, Roth and Horner meticulously evaluatedhundreds scent samples. This rigorous process was conducted under the watchful eye of Caesars World's merchandising subsidiary, renowned for its management of prestigious casinos.

Parfumerie Burval - Parfums de Luxe

Société des Parfums de Luxe Burval - Saint-Denis, 161, Boulevard Ornano.

Jaiscient

Jaiscient was a subdivision of Sterling International Trading Co., Ltd. of Akron, Ohio. and was established in 1961. 

Perry Ellis for Women by Perry Ellis c1985

Perry Ellis for Women by Perry Ellis debuted in 1985 in collaboration with Parfums Stern. Crafted by the skilled perfumers at Mane, this fragrance embodies timeless elegance and sophistication.

Hula-Lei Products

Hula-Lei Products of Honolulu, Hawaii.

Spoiled by Theodore c1987

Introducing "Spoiled" perfume by Theodore of Beverly Hills, unveiled in December 1987.

Montana by Montana c1986

Montana by Montana first graced the European fragrance scene in the autumn of 1986. Crafted by the skilled hands of Roure Perfumers Jean Guichard in collaboration with Edouard Flechier, this olfactory masterpiece made its mark with an intricate blend of scents that captivated the senses.

Minyunet Corporation

The Minyunet Corporation had its headquarters situated at 67 Fifth Avenue in the vibrant city of New York, New York. The choice of name, "Minyunet," was carefully crafted to resonate with English-speaking customers while retaining a touch of sophistication. Derived from the French word "mignonette," it was phonetically rendered to ensure ease of pronunciation, mirroring the strategy employed by Maison Violet with its subsidiary brand, Veolay. This strategic move aimed to make the brand more accessible and appealing to its target market, showcasing a blend of cultural finesse and market acumen.

Un Certain Été à Livadia by Baccarat c1999

"Un Certain Été à Livadia" by Baccarat, introduced in 1999, is a fragrance that captures the essence of a specific summer in Livadia. Created by the talented perfumer Christine Nagel, this scent is part of Baccarat's trilogy known as "Les Contes d'Ailleurs" (Tales from Elsewhere), which began with "Une Nuit Etoilée au Bengale" (A Starry Night in Bengal) in 1997 and continued with "Les Larmes sacrées de Thebes" (The Sacred Tears of Thebes) in 1998.

Each fragrance in this trilogy aims to transport wearers to exotic locales through olfactory storytelling. "Un Certain Été à Livadia" paints a picture of a particular summer in Livadia, evoking imagery of warmth, sunshine, and perhaps even hints of mystery or romance associated with this unique setting. With its blend of notes carefully crafted by Nagel, it offers wearers an olfactory journey that is both intriguing and memorable, adding to the allure of Baccarat's perfume offerings.

Cobra by Carlo Dini c1988

"Cobra" by Carlo Dini is a fragrance that debuted in 1988, crafted under the expertise of perfumers at Givaudan. It stands as the second olfactory creation by the multi-talented operatic tenor, Carlo Dini, whose birth name is Joseph Saul Dwek. Dini's venture into the realm of perfumery adds a layer of intrigue to the scent, perhaps reflecting his artistic sensibilities and a desire to encapsulate emotions and experiences beyond the stage.

"Wear it with caution"

Calyx by Prescriptives c1986

"Calyx" by Prescriptives, unveiled in 1986, represents a collaboration between two renowned perfumers: Sophia Grojsman and Karyn Khoury of Estee Lauder. Inspired by the vibrant green portion of a flower, known as the calyx, the fragrance captures the essence of freshness and renewal akin to the unfurling of a new blossom. With its invigorating and exhilarating aroma, Calyx celebrates the crisp, revitalizing energy of nature's awakening, making it a timeless favorite among fragrance enthusiasts seeking a burst of revitalization.

Premier Jour by Nina Ricci c2001

"Premier Jour" by Nina Ricci, launched in 2001, is a captivating fragrance created by a trio of renowned perfumers: Sophie Labbe, Carlos Benaim, and Rosendo Mateu. This scent, designed to capture the essence of a woman's first day, evokes a sense of freshness and purity. With its delicate blend of notes, it is a timeless fragrance that embodies femininity and sophistication.

Livia by Livia Parfums c1977

"Livia" by Livia Parfums, a fragrance that debuted in 1977, stands as a testament to timeless elegance and sophistication. Crafted by the Livia Sylva company, which found its roots in New York City after emigrating from Romania, this scent encapsulates the essence of both its birthplace and its adopted home.

With its origins rooted in the bustling streets of New York City, Livia Parfums embodies the cosmopolitan allure of the city that never sleeps. Yet, its creation story traces back to the rich heritage of Romania, infusing the fragrance with a sense of Old World charm and mystique.

Drawing inspiration from the vibrant cultures that shaped its creators' identities, Livia Parfums exudes a captivating blend of tradition and modernity. Its scent profile reflects a harmonious fusion of classic notes and contemporary twists, making it a timeless choice for individuals who appreciate both the allure of history and the excitement of innovation.

As the embodiment of elegance and refinement, Livia Parfums continues to captivate the senses decades after its inception, a true testament to the enduring legacy of its creators and the rich tapestry of influences that shaped its creation.

Oussadba Russe

In 1929, Princess Clementine Eristavi Tchitcherine's establishment, the Oussadba Russe, was a notable fixture at 84 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. This elegant restaurant and tearoom was a reflection of the opulence and sophistication associated with the Russian aristocracy. The venue was renowned not only for its refined ambiance but also for its unique offerings that set it apart from other dining establishments of the time. Guests were treated to a luxurious experience that combined the delicate pleasures of afternoon tea with the enchanting sounds of Russian music, creating an atmosphere that was both exotic and welcoming. The selection of teas was curated with great care, promising an indulgent respite amidst the bustling city.

The name "Oussadba Russe" was more than just a moniker for this charming tearoom; it also found its way into the world of perfumery. Russian Oussadba, the perfume sharing the same name, was a fragrant homage to the cultural richness and allure of the establishment. The perfume likely captured the essence of the Russian elegance that defined the tearoom, offering a sensory journey that evoked the same blend of sophistication and mystery that characterized Princess Clementine's Parisian retreat. The scent would have been a fitting complement to the experience of the tearoom, embodying the luxurious and exotic spirit of the Oussadba Russe.

Mademoiselle by Philippe Venet c1965

Launched in 1968, Mademoiselle is a fragrance that captures the essence of youth and elegance, crafted by the talented perfumer Michel Hy. Philippe Venet, an esteemed fashion designer known for his avant-garde approach and innovative designs, sought to create a fragrance that resonated with the modern woman of the late 1960s. The choice of the name Mademoiselle—French for "young lady"—conveys a sense of freshness, sophistication, and spirited independence. Pronounced as "ma-duh-zoe," the term evokes images of youthful charm, grace, and vitality, perfectly aligning with the zeitgeist of the era.

The word Mademoiselle carries connotations of playfulness and femininity, suggesting a woman who is confident yet approachable. Women of the time, emerging from the constraints of previous generations, found themselves embracing their independence and personal identity. The fragrance Mademoiselle served as a tribute to this newfound spirit, inviting women to embody a sense of freedom and self-expression. The fresh, floral character of the perfume further aligns with the optimistic and liberating feelings that were prevalent during this transformative period.

Interpreted in scent, Mademoiselle embodies a delicate yet invigorating blend, characterized by a fresh floral composition that includes Parma violets and sweet lily of the valley. These notes evoke the scent of blooming flowers in a sunlit garden, providing a crisp and uplifting experience. The fragrance reflects a sporty, daytime persona, ideal for women who embraced an active lifestyle while maintaining a sense of elegance. Launched concurrently with Madame, its evening counterpart, Mademoiselle was designed to complement the more opulent and sensual qualities of Madame, showcasing a duality in femininity that resonated deeply with women of the time.

Eau d'Hermes by Hermes c1951

Eau d'Hermès was created by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in 1951. History tells us that the perfume division, Hermes Parfums, was set up in 1950, marketing the first Hermes perfume, the classic Eau d'Hermes. However, I found a 1946 ad and a 1949 advertisement for Holt Renfrew that offered L'Eau de Hermes, is this a precursor?

Parfums de-Folet

Parfums de-Folet, a highly obscure French perfume company, operated within a narrow window from 1938 to 1941. Despite its short existence, the brand left an indelible mark on the fragrance world with its distinct and elusive scents. Founded amidst the tumultuous years leading up to World War II, Parfums de-Folet crafted perfumes that captured the essence of an era marked by uncertainty and shifting societal norms.

Though scant information remains about the company's history, its legacy endures through whispers in fragrance enthusiast circles and rare vintage bottles that occasionally surface in auctions or private collections. The allure of Parfums de-Folet lies not only in its ephemeral existence but also in the mystique surrounding its creations, which are shrouded in the enigmatic ambiance of pre-war France.

The fragrances produced by Parfums de-Folet are revered for their complexity and sophistication, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era. Each scent is a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of a time when perfumers meticulously blended rare ingredients to create olfactory masterpieces. Despite the passage of time, the allure of Parfums de-Folet continues to captivate perfume aficionados who seek to uncover the secrets of this enigmatic brand.

Andrade by Lise Watier c1978

Lise Watier Fragrances was a division of the Montreal-based cosmetic company established by Lise Watier in 1972. Her brand originally started in 1968 with a spa, called 'L'Institut Lise Watier'. 

Liana Hawaiian Perfumes

 Liana of Waikiki, Hawaiian Perfumes Incorporated.

Essence Absolue Épurée

You might encounter a bottle labeled "Essence Absolue Épurée" and wonder about its nature. This intriguing essence, known as "Purified Absolute Essence," originates from a substance called concrete, which is a natural, waxy material extracted from flowers. Concrete captures the aromatic compounds of flowers in a semi-solid form, retaining the rich and complex scents of the blossoms from which it is derived.

The transformation of concrete into purified absolute essence involves a meticulous process. Initially, the concrete is washed with potent alcohol in specialized machines known as batteuses. These machines are designed to shake the mixture vigorously, ensuring that the alcohol thoroughly interacts with the concrete. This washing process helps to dissolve the aromatic compounds while leaving behind less soluble substances such as waxes.

Following the washing phase, the mixture undergoes cooling, which plays a crucial role in the purification process. As the temperature drops, the wax and natural pigments present in the concrete begin to precipitate out of the solution. This separation is essential for achieving the desired purity of the final product. The cooled mixture is then filtered to remove these precipitated components, resulting in a substance that is free from wax and pigments.

The resultant product of this rigorous process is highly concentrated and is referred to as "absolute essence." This absolute essence is a potent and pure form of the flower's fragrance, capturing its essence in a way that is both intense and refined. It is this concentrated nature that makes absolute essence highly valued, particularly in the fields of perfumery and aromatherapy, where a little goes a long way in imparting the desired aromatic qualities.

In summary, "Essence Absolue Épurée" or "Purified Absolute Essence" is a highly refined product derived from concrete through a process of alcohol washing, cooling, and filtration. This process eliminates wax and pigments, leaving behind a pure, concentrated essence that embodies the true fragrance of the flowers from which it originates.

Le Fruit Defendu by Rosine c1913

"Le Fruit Defendu" by Rosine is a fragrance with a rich history, crafted by the skilled hands of Henri Alméras and introduced to the world in 1913. Its allure likely reached the shores of the United States by 1916, captivating perfume enthusiasts with its mysterious charm. The name itself, translating to "The Forbidden Fruit" in French, evokes the timeless tale of Adam and Eve and their fateful encounter with temptation.

This fragrance holds a special place in the hearts of many, including the renowned American actress Gloria Swanson, who found herself enchanted by its alluring aroma. Just as the forbidden fruit tempted Adam and Eve, Le Fruit Defendu tantalizes the senses, weaving a narrative of seduction and desire with every delicate note. Its legacy endures through the decades, a testament to its timeless appeal and the artistry of its creators.