Welcome!

Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Henri Quenvil

Henri Quenvil was a French artist working from the early 1900s til the 1930s.  Quenvil produced beautiful glassware and porcelain with thickly applied polychrome enamel in the manner. His style is like that of Robj, Andre Delatte, Marcel Goupy, Argy Rousseau, Mayozer. and others.


Noa Noa by Helena Rubinstein c1953

Noa Noa by Helena Rubinstein was launched in 1953. Inspired by "Presentation de l'Ancien culte mahorie: La clef de Noa-Noa," by Paul Gauguin. Noa Noa means "'fragrance" — the sweet smell of homemade coconut oil perfumed with gardenia petals, called monoi, in which his lover, Teha'amana, like all Tahitian girls used to rub into their hair and body. 

The New Yorker, 1954:
"Helena Rubinstein announces NOA NOA (Tahitian superlative for 'fragrant'). Madame Rubinstein sought inspiration for new NOA NOA perfume in the exotic paradise of Tahiti."






Monday, April 15, 2013

Nogara - Pelissier Aragon - Les Fontaines Parfumees

Nogara, Les Fontaines Perfumees, of Grasse France, was established in 1902 by Louis-Francois Pelissier. Around 1910, a major branch opened in Paris. The company produced perfumes, soaps and cosmetics.

They were affiliated to Pellisier-Aragon, a company that produced essential oils for perfumers as well as their own line of perfumes. Nogara is Aragon spelled backwards.


La Corbeille Royale Perfumes

La Corbeille Royale was established by Emile Lemesre in Paris, Passage Violet 4. They also had a branch in Brussels at 80 an, 82 and 84 rue Coenraets.




Millat Perfumes and Karoff Perfumes

Millat Parfumeur was established by Arthur R Karoff and his brother Robert B Karoff Jr, in Miami, Florida around 1925, they had an office in Paris. I think that the Karoff perfume company was originally named Millat in the mid to late 1920s and by 1930 was renamed Karoff.

Karoff Perfume Company, also known as Karoff Creations, Karoff LTD and Karoff Originals, established by Robert B Karoff at 347 Fifth Ave New York in 1930; launched a range of fragrances, many dime-store novelties in glass bottles by Owens-Illinois Glass Company, also owned Milart.

Milart Associates, was a sales promotion firm that specialized in dime store products as well as in Christmas mailings postmarked from Santa Claus, Indiana.

Robert B. Karoff was also the creator of all Stuart Products Co. packages and sometimes the same Karoff perfumes and presentations will be marked with the Stuart Products name instead. Stuart Products Co. was established by Wm B. Cohen in St Paul, Minnesota in 1935, became Stuart Co in 1947, specialised in novelty products.

Arthur Karoff was shot and killed while in his car in 1957, the murder remains a mystery even today.

The perfumes of Millat:

  • 1925 Minuit
  • 1925 Chypre
  • 1925 Rose
  • 1925 Orchid
  • 1925 Gardenia
  • 1925 Narcisse
  • 1925 Jasmine
  • 1925 Trailing Arbutus
  • 1925 Carnation
  • 1925 Sweet Pea
  • 1925 Extra Sec
  • 1925 Penier
  • 1925 Regnerator
  • 1925 Rinter


Minuit perfume by Millat, circa 1920, photo by ebay seller xniide.



The perfumes of Karoff:
  • 1930 Carnation
  • 1930 Gardenia
  • 1930 Orchid
  • 1930 Narcisse
  • 1930 Trailing Arbutus
  • 1930 Tulip
  • 1932 Sachet Cart presentation
  • 1935 Indian Song (Stuart's)
  • 1935 Lover's Dream (Stuart's)
  • 1936 Floral Box presentation
  • 1936 Floral Quintuplets presentation
  • 1936 Miss Chypre
  • 1936 Miss Gardenia
  • 1936 Miss Orchid
  • 1936 Miss Rose
  • 1936 Miss Sweet Pea
  • 1936 Buckarettes presentation
  • 1937 Castanettes presentation  (Stuart's)
  • 1938 Imperial Bath Cocktail
  • 1938 La Conga presentation
  • 1938 Orchi Charnia presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1938 Minute Perfume Cocktail presentation
  • 1948 PAR fumes presentation
  • 1938 Parfume Blossoms
  • 1938 The Topper presentation
  • 1938 Lavender in Lace presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1938 Chin Chin Chu presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1938 Picanette presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1939 Barette presentation
  • 1939 Covered Wagon presentation
  • 1939 Pefume Caravan presentation
  • 1939 Tap Cologne
  • 1940 Perfume Hi-Lights (Stuart's)
  • 1940 My Lady's Strike (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Aromalite (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Perfumador presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Celestial Dream presentation
  • 1940 Perfume O'Clock presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Perfume Time presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 What Not Perfumes presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Perfumatone presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Floral Fiesta presentation
  • 1940 Garden Gems presentation
  • 1940 Bed of Roses presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Bouquet No. 1 (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Bouquet No. 10 (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Bouquet No. 9 (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Brass Button (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Chevron (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Dufflette (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Dutch Girl (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Evensong (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Perfume Cand-a-lite presentation
  • 1940 Perfume Marionettes presentation
  • 1940 Perfume of the Hour presentation, held Evening Mood and Morning Mist
  • 1940 Private Number presentation
  • 1940 Queen's Court
  • 1940 Sweet Pea
  • 1940 Perfume World presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Begonia
  • 1940 Tri-Fumador presentation
  • 1940 Quadrille presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1940 Essence of Knowledge presentation
  • 1941 Perfume Cannonizer presentation
  • 1941 On Guard presentation
  • 1941 Perfume Topics presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1941 Parfum Le Bois d'Argonne presentation
  • 1942 Sa-Chaise Lounge presentation (Stuart's)
  • 1943 Army Canteen presentation
  • 1943 Navy Canteen presentation
  • 1944 Old Acquintance presentation
  • 1945 Sheltered Treasures presentation
  • 1950 International Coquettes presentation
Images below are shown in an advertisement from a 1939-40 International Merchandise catalog.














Mon Parfum by Bourjois c1919

Mon Parfum (My Perfume) by Bourjois: launched in 1919. It was a perfume created by Ernest Beaux and marketed  "my perfume reflects my personality" and "the sweetest perfume in the world."





Friday, April 12, 2013

Le Jade by Roger et Gallet c1923

Le Jade by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1923. Le Jade was subtitled "The Precious Perfume."


Cocktail Bar a Parfums by Jean Patou c1928

In the late 1920s and early 1930s, cocktail bars emerged as cultural icons, embodying the spirit of the Jazz Age. This era, characterized by its roaring nightlife and sense of modernity, saw the cocktail bar as a central social hub where people gathered to enjoy innovative and stylish beverages. The atmosphere of these bars was glamorous and lively, appealing to the growing middle and upper classes who sought sophistication and new forms of entertainment. 

In 1928, Jean Patou, ever the innovator, introduced a unique and charming feature to his Parisian showrooms: a cocktail bar. This was not merely a place to serve drinks but a strategic and thoughtful addition designed to enhance the shopping experience for both his clients and their companions. The bar was specifically intended to entertain and quench the thirsts of husbands and other men who often found themselves accompanying women during the sometimes lengthy and tedious process of fittings and fashion consultations.

In the luxurious fitting rooms of the popular Parisian couturier Jean Patou, an unusual invitation might have been heard: "Madame, while we are making this little alteration in your frock, won't you step down to the bar and take a cocktail?" This innovative concept, a cocktail bar complete with a polished counter, cozy seats, glistening bottles, and a white-coated bartender with an easy smile, became a significant hit among Patou's fashionable customers. The bar served as a delightful distraction from the tiresome delays of fittings and alterations, the indecision over which model to choose, and the doubts about prices and whether to splurge on one more dress. The affable barman, always sympathetic and helpful, added to the experience.

Interestingly, this bar was designed specifically for women. Originally, Jean Patou explained,"This is not a bar for men. I have installed this accommodation for women. Husbands and boyfriends can do their drinking around the corner. I want this to be a haven of rest and reflection for my clients." Patou believed that women appreciate a good cocktail as much as they do a good frock, and found that one stimulated them quite as much as the other. His three-piece cocktail, consisted of gin, Bacardi rum, and a secret ingredient, was particularly popular among his clients. While men were not barred from the salon, they were not particularly encouraged to stay, as the space was intended for women to think about fashion without the distraction of dressmaking bills.

The conversation at Patou's bar was unlike any typical bar setting. Politics, sports, and last night's party were replaced with discussions about dresses. Women exchanged phrases like "Have you seen this one?" rather than "Have you heard this one?" It was a space where only those who understood and appreciated tucks, ruffles, and hemlines would have felt at home.

Psychologists among the Paris dressmakers had long understood that keeping a customer's mind off the bill could ease the sales process. This insight led to the introduction of tea-dances and mannequin parades in the dress-making salons. Jean Patou's cocktail bar was a modern and most elegant evolution of this concept. The skill of his bartender in mixing drinks like "sidecars" and "rose" cocktails had even started to attract a clientele that might be tempted to buy a dress on the side, akin to a "chaser."

Patou’s showroom cocktail bar was a masterstroke in customer service and marketing. It transformed what could have been a dull and tiresome wait into a pleasant and enjoyable experience. Originally meant exclusively for women to enjoy, Jean Patou's cocktail bar eventually evolved to accommodate men who accompanied their ladies. Despite Patou's initial intention to create a haven exclusively for women to relax and reflect away from the pressures of dressmaking decisions, the appeal and convivial atmosphere of the cocktail bar extended its allure to both genders. The men, who might otherwise grow impatient or bored, were now engaged and entertained, making them more likely to view the shopping trip favorably and support the purchasing decisions of their wives or partners. This clever addition fostered a relaxed and convivial atmosphere, making the entire process more appealing and luxurious.

Flirt by Ed Pinaud c1908

Flirt was first launched in 1908 by Ed Pinaud. It was then relaunched in 1937 in the famous Scarlett O'Hara bottle and the name was given a US trademark.

In 1990, the perfume was relaunched as a special edition of only 1000 examples for the inauguration of the Museum of Edouard Pinaud,  in a copy of its original flacon and box design.


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