Joy by Jean Patou c1929

Jean Patou launched "Joy" in 1930, a time marked by the economic hardships of the Great Depression. In the context of perfume and haute couture fashion, this period saw a significant shift. The opulence and extravagance of the 1920s gave way to a more restrained and cautious approach in the early 1930s. Yet, amidst this backdrop, Jean Patou decided to create an exceptionally luxurious product, showcasing resilience and a commitment to beauty even in difficult times.

Renowned as "the costliest perfume in the world," the Joy line was created in 1929 by haute couture designer Jean Patou. The perfume was first used commercially in 1931 according to trademark records. Jean Patou was the first designer to use his initials as a logo, presaging the monogrammed designer labels of today.

The name "Joy" was chosen with great care. In a period characterized by financial struggle and uncertainty, a name evoking happiness and positivity was a deliberate and thoughtful choice. "Joy" as a name for a perfume encapsulates the essence of what perfume represents: an escape, a moment of pleasure, and a touch of luxury. For women of the time, a perfume called "Joy" would symbolize a beacon of hope and a brief respite from the harsh realities of daily life.

Henri Almeras, a master perfumer, was tasked by Patou to create something strong yet simple, without regard to cost. The result was a lavish blend that included an unprecedented amount of rare and expensive ingredients such as jasmine and rose. The creation of such a costly perfume during an economically challenging time was a bold statement and an expression of undiminished quality and craftsmanship.

Voici Paris by Parfums Raffy c1929

Voici Paris by Parfums Raffy was launched in 1929.

American Druggist, 1931:

"Voici Paris The illustration shows a new perfume in an unusual package recently introduced by Raffy of Paris. It comes in two sizes, one ounce size - $15."

The bottle for Voici Paris is clear glass, disk shaped and has a molded malachite green slag glass flower stopper. It came in two sizes. The bottom of the bottle is marked RAFFY.

So what does it smell like? There are no official notes but I tested it on my wrist and a piece of paper, I detect notes of effervescent aldehydes, sweet orange blossom and jasmine, pungent geranium, May rose, dusty lavender, oakmoss, powdery amber, soapy Bulgarian rose, musk, civet and a hint of leather.


Parfums Raffy was established in 1918 by Marcel J. Raffy, a Franco-American (1901-1934), of 156 East 45 St. New York; Interesting note: Raffy was an American company for which Marcel sought to suggest French origins, even so much as to using a false Paris address for export to the USA. He was subsequently sued by French perfumers association for having used a fictious Paris address. Used false addresses such as 6 West 28th St, NY; also Parisian address; such as 82 rue Lafayette, Paris and 21 rue Beranger, Paris; was sued and went bankrupt.

The perfume was sold from 1929-1938.

Another bottle for the perfume is shown below. This is a later version, probably from the late 1930s. It is a cylindrical, disk like bottle, holds 3 fl ounces. There is a label around the middle of the bottle reading "Made in USA. Contents 3 fl oz." the other side reads "Chas. Cuche Distributor New York, NY". The base of teh bottle is molded with "Freas System 125 cc".

Photos by ebay seller johnny-sells

White Lilac by Mary Chess c1932

White Lilac, launched in 1932 by Mary Chess, holds the distinction of being her first perfume and set the tone for her signature approach to fragrance. The choice of the name "White Lilac" reflects Mary Chess’s love for simple, natural beauty. The phrase itself, “White Lilac,” comes from the common name of a flowering plant, with "lilac" derived from the Persian word "līlak," meaning “bluish.” However, Mary Chess focused on the pure, pristine white variety of the lilac flower, symbolizing innocence, purity, and elegance. The word "White Lilac" evokes images of a peaceful garden in spring, filled with soft sunlight and delicate blossoms. It conjures emotions of serenity, nostalgia, and natural beauty—an unpretentious luxury that feels both timeless and sophisticated.

Interpreting "White Lilac" as a scent, it would capture the fragile and fleeting beauty of fresh lilacs in bloom. This fragrance would open with the bright, clean scent of fresh white lilacs, which instantly uplifts the senses with its crisp floral sweetness. Beneath this top note, the perfume softens into the lush floral undertones of lily of the valley, jonquil, and wisteria—all known for their sweet and slightly powdery characteristics. These create a creamy, rounded base, while sparkling verbena punctuates the composition with a hint of citrusy zest, adding a lightness that keeps the fragrance fresh and lively.

Lady by Jovan c1983

Lady by Jovan was launched in 1983.

Requete by Worth c1944

Requete by Worth was first launched in France in 1944, then came to the USA by 1945. The name literally means "request" in French. In the 1940s, Requete was suggested to be worn by a young woman, as a daytime perfume.

Amazone by Hermes c1974

Amazone by Hermes was created in 1974, and first launched France before coming to America in 1976 for special limited distribution for Christmas before being put into general distribution in the USA in 1977.

Les Parfums Rival

Les Parfums Rival was established by Jean Chavelier at 166 avenue de Neuilly, Seine, France in c1910.

Le Secret de Suzanne by Les Parfums Suzanne c1924

Le Secret de Suzanne by Les Parfums Suzanne (Perichon) was first launched in 1924 in France, it wasn't until around 1933 that it made its way into the USA. The perfume's name is based on an opera of the same name, Il Segreto di Susanna by Ermanno Wold-Ferrari in 1909.

Private Affair by Lenel c1953

Private Affair by Lenel was launched in 1953, although trademark records who the name was in use in 1951, then reactivated in 1976.

Evening Star by Blanchard c1949

Evening Star by Blanchard was launched in 1949. Although I read the trademark info on the name and it says it was first used commercially in 1951.