The Lore of Perfume

The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957) 

Wednesday 14 December 1938

The Lore of Perfume 

Do you understand the science of perfume, and are you choosing the right essence to express your personality?

To help you in this beauty lore, I visited the "perfume bar" at the Myer Emporium and enlisted the aid of two kindly helpers-whom I will call Veronica and Olive.

"If you are young and happy," said Veronica, "select a flowery perfume. One of those cool, fresh essences which seem to typify youth. These perfumes are also ideal when a woman is weary, depressed,or sad, as they carry happy thoughts and memories.

"A fair-haired girl may find Coty's Lily of the Valley a perfect essence for her type, while others may prefer the fragrance of Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs, or the endearing sweetness of some of the English scents.

"For the girl with auburn lights in her hair I advise a lilac or violet perfume," interjected Olive, "while the dark haired woman with a strong sense of mystery and romanticism should use gardenia or the heavier magnolia scent."

"Women who prefer a more sophisticated fragrance can experiment with such perfumes as Roger et Gallet's Fleur d'Amour, Jean Patou's Amour-Amour, or Lucien Lelong's mystery scent known as 'N'."

Veronica moved in front of the array of perfume containers and pointed to one of the many phials-"The fair, serene type of young matron," she remarked,"should try Chanel's 5,' as this is a delicate scent which fades away into a soft powdery fragrance, while for the sports girl I recommend such perfumes as Chanel's Cuir de Russie or Lentheric's Tweed.

"If you wish to be mysterious, romantic,or exotic, there are essences for every emotion. Buy a tiny quantity and test for yourself. There is the incense-laden perfume of Worth's Je Reviens, the sandalwood scent of Rigaud's Un Air Embaume, the provocative audacity of Lentheric's Le Pirate, of Schiaparelli's Shocking, of Lanvin's Scandal, or the mystery of Guerlain's Shalimar."

"Remember not to use too strong or too heavy a perfume in the morning,"said Olive. "Keep the fragrance light and almost imperceptible. Then in the afternoon employ a more definite, but still aloof and refined scent, while for the evening use the perfume that suits your mood."

"Are you the elegant and quieter type of older woman who dislikes too noticeable a perfume-well there is Coty's L'Origan or the lilac-scented bouquet of Duchess of York-the essence made by a Russian prince."

Veronica waved an elusive glass stopper before my face and bade me au revoir, saying: "The chief secret is to exploit your personality."

Explosives from Scent c1941

Kalgoorlie Miner (WA : 1895 - 1950), Friday 26 December 1941, page 3

The English Woman's Diary - Concerning Scent

Originally posted in the publication The English Woman's Diary.

November 25 1908 

THE THE ENGLISH WOMAN'S DIARY 

Concerning Scent 

Am delighted to hear that a decision has been made that certain scents are actually valuable as antiseptics. Lavender and eau de cologne are both named among the most to be prized and some of the sweeter scents as well. Nothing is more vulgar than a highly scented woman and a strong odour of violets has a peculiar effect of nausea on many people. It is the worst possible taste to make use profusely of scent. Another discovery is that two scents are capable of destroying each other. Scent should never be applied direct to the skin but a delicate odour should be communicated to all the wardrobe by the same sachet being concealed in the drawers cupboards boxes &c. The latest fad is to wear scented pads in the hair, but the more delicate and artistic method is to keep the brushes in a highlyscented box and this communicates that faint and mystic odour which is so fascinating. Especially in these days when both women and men smoke so much the hair is easily permeated with the odour of stale tobacco smoke which is anything but attractive so I hail this latter idea with distinct satisfaction.

Elizabeth Arden Treasures of the Pharaohs Vanity Collectibles

For Christmas 1982, Elizabeth Arden offered her Blue Grass bath line in beautiful porcelain vanity

accessories. These accessories had an exotic theme, Ancient Egypt. The line was dubbed "Treasures of the Pharaohs" and was based on some actual ancient artifacts found in tombs of the pharaohs and nobles.

I have compiled a list of items included in the line:

• Double headed ibex boat held three shell shaped soaps.
• Horus the falcon powder jar
• Frog pomander
• Cat shaped bath salts trinket box
• Camel shaped bath salts trinket box
• Hippo shaped candle holder with lid
• Dresser tray decorated with lotus motifs
• Cat shaped pomander
• Bird pomander
• Duck shaped soap dish
• Egyptian sarcophagus shaped dresser jar with bath salts
• Lotus shaped candle holder with lid.
• Ibis bird box
• Lotus decorated jar/lid (four petal top, jagged edges, half circle knob)
• Lotus decorated small jar/lid candle holder, (four petal top, smooth edges, flower knob)
• Lotus decorated tall jar for bath crystals, with round stopper, rounded bottom, on 3 leg brass stand
• Tall vase shaped jar with blue triangle design, with double lotus stopper
• Small round dish with lotus
• Queen Nefertari decorative bust on stand

If you have something that is not listed, let me know and I will update the list. Thanks to Pam for helping me update the list.

photo by ruby lane seller GreatVintageStff

Photo from Perfume Bottles Auction

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Organza Indecence by Givenchy c1999

Organza Indecence was launched in September of 1999. It was created by Norbert Bijaoui in collaboration with Jean Claude Delville. 

Blue Jeans by Shulton c1971

Before Gianni Versace came out with his Blue Jeans Fragrance, Shulton launched theirs in 1971.

ON EBAY THIS WEEK: Diable Vert by Vibert Freres c1924

ON EBAY THIS WEEK: Diable Vert (Green Devil/Imp) by Vibert Freres c1924. This was introduced around the same time as Diable Noir (Black Devil/Imp), another perfume by Vibert Freres. That bottle was made up of opaque black glass. This same bottle design was used for Diable Vert, this time, its a transparent green glass bottle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-find-Sealed-perfume-by-Vibert-Freres-DIABLE-VERT-with-box-/360688079854?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53faaf53ee

Parfums Madhva

Parfums Madhva, subtitled "Parfums des Divinites de l'Inde," was founded in 1923 by Daniel Jaquet, swiftly gained recognition within the perfume industry during its era of growth. Before establishing Madhva, Daniel Jaquet had founded Fontanis Fontanis in 1919. This sequence of entrepreneurial ventures underscores Jaquet's significant presence and influence in the perfume sector during the early 20th century.

Parfumerie Bichara

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Bichara of 10 rue de la Chausse-d'Antin, Paris France.

c1913 ad

Delieuvin

M. Delieuvin, subtitled Parfumerie Le Chardon Bleu, established in Paris France around 1900, their office was located at 20-22 rue de Strasbourg, Vitry-sur-Seine. Supplier to the Imperial Court of Russia. They continued selling into the 1960s.