Ma Griffe by Carven c1946

Ma Griffe by Carven: launched in 1946. Created by Jean Carles, chief perfumer of Roure Bertrand Dupont. The name means "My Signature" as well as "My Claw" in French. Undoubtedly, a pun on the name, as Madame Carven clawed her way to top the design world and left her mark with her revolutionary Ma Griffe perfume.

Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc.

Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc. is an obscure Parisian perfume company.

 Jean d'Hennery, Inc., was d.b.a. Nemours, New York, N.Y.

Their most common perfumes are Kim and Mouky.

Un Jour by Charles Jourdan c1978

Un Jour by Charles Jourdan: launched in 1978. In USA in 1982. Created by Roger Pellegrino.

What are Aldehydic Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Aldehydic: 

or modern perfumes are those with significant notes of the aldehydes which are synthetic compounds, with clean, diffusive, sparkling notes and a family of chemicals.


Aldehydes are usually associated with florals and feminine perfumes. The first aldehydic perfume was created in 1925 by Ernest Beaux for Chanel No. 5, quite possibly the world‘s most famous aldehydic perfume.


There are subdivisions of classifications in this family and they are: floral aldehydic and floral aldehydic chypre.

Mary Grayo

Mary Grayo was a furrier out of Monte Carlo; in addition to furs, she also sold her own brand of perfumes for furs during the 1940's. Mary Grayo's perfumes were designed to be worn when wearing a fur coat, to help prevent the natural gamey scent of fur coats from being obvious. Many of the perfumes that were produced were formulated to be worn with specific types of fur, such as Renard Argente (silver fox), Renard Bleu (blue fox), Breitschwanz (Persian lamb), Castor (beaver), Panthére (panther), Ragondin (nutria), and Vison (mink).

c1946

Vivara by Emilio Pucci c1965

In 1965, when Emilio Pucci launched his perfume "Vivara," the world was captivated by the allure of vacationing and cruising to exotic island locales, particularly in Italy. This era marked a time of leisure and luxury, where jet-setting to destinations like the Amalfi Coast and Capri became synonymous with the glamorous lifestyle of the rich and famous. Films of the time often depicted romantic escapades and adventures set against the backdrop of sun-drenched Mediterranean islands, reinforcing the fantasy of carefree indulgence and sophisticated elegance.

Emilio Pucci chose the name "Vivara" for his perfume, inspired by a deserted crescent-shaped island opposite Ischia in the Bay of Naples. The word "Vivara" itself is evocative; in Italian, it means vibrant or vivid, suggesting life, vitality, and the vivid colors for which Pucci's fashion designs were renowned. It's a name that conjures images of untouched natural beauty, serene landscapes, and the allure of hidden paradises waiting to be discovered.

For women of the time period, a perfume called "Vivara" would have resonated deeply. It promised a fragrance experience that transported them to the essence of Italian luxury and the Mediterranean lifestyle—sun-kissed beaches, warm sea breezes, and the sophistication of Italian fashion. The name itself, with its exotic connotations and association with a remote island, would have appealed to their desire for escapism and elegance.

The perfume "Vivara" would likely have been received with enthusiasm. Its name alone suggests a sensory journey—a blend of floral, citrus, and aquatic notes that could evoke the feelings of freedom, sensuality, and adventure. Women would have responded to it as a fragrance that not only complemented their style but also enhanced their personal allure, embodying the spirit of wanderlust and sophistication.

L'Elu by Marquay c1946

L'Elu by Marquay: launched in 1946. The name means "The Chosen".

Diorama by Christian Dior c1949

"Diorama" was launched in 1948, a pivotal period for Christian Dior and the haute couture fashion world. This was just a year after Dior introduced his iconic "New Look" in 1947, which revolutionized fashion with its emphasis on luxury, femininity, and elegance. Post-World War II, there was a collective desire to return to opulence and beauty, and Dior's designs embodied this shift. The world was ready to embrace extravagance once more, and Dior's creations symbolized this resurgence of glamour.

The name "Diorama" is particularly fitting for a perfume for several reasons. Firstly, it cleverly incorporates Dior’s name, maintaining brand recognition and reinforcing the association with luxury and sophistication. Secondly, the word "Diorama" evokes images of a miniature, meticulously crafted scene, aligning perfectly with the idea of a perfume as a carefully composed sensory experience. It suggests a world of its own, rich in detail and atmosphere, which is an appealing concept for a fragrance. Thirdly, "Diorama" appeals to the imagination, transporting the wearer to a different realm or story, much like how a diorama offers a glimpse into a detailed, self-contained world.

Women of the late 1940s and early 1950s would have related to "Diorama" on multiple levels. After years of wartime austerity, there was a strong desire for luxury and sophistication. Dior’s perfumes, associated with his high fashion, symbolized an aspirational lifestyle and a return to elegance. The name "Diorama," being unique and evocative, would attract women seeking something special and refined. Christian Dior was a highly respected name in fashion, and women trusted his taste and vision, which extended to his perfumes.

The word "Diorama" conjures images of intricacy and detail, much like a diorama itself. It suggests luxury and exclusivity, aligning with the high-end nature of Dior’s brand. Additionally, it evokes a sense of fantasy and escape, paralleling how perfume can transform one’s mood and presence. This blend of sophisticated imagery and emotions made "Diorama" a distinctive and appealing name for a perfume.

Desert Flower by Shulton c1947

Desert Flower by Shulton: launched in 1947. Desert Flower was also sold under the name Leigh.

Salvador Dali created three paintings commissioned by the Shulton Company to market the perfume Desert Flower in 1947.

Lumiere by Rochas c1984

Lumière by Parfums Rochas, introduced in 1984, emerged during a period marked by a resurgence of interest in elegance and sophistication in fragrance. This era was characterized by a blend of nostalgia for classic perfumery and a modern approach to scent composition, reflecting a desire for refined femininity.

The choice of the name "Lumière" for this perfume is deeply symbolic. In French, "Lumière" translates to "light" in English. Parfums Rochas likely selected this name to evoke imagery of radiant luminosity and the uplifting quality of light. It suggests an aura of brightness and warmth, aligning perfectly with the fragrance's intention to capture the essence of light through its composition.

Alexandria, Egypt, holds a significant association with perfumery due to its historical role as a center of trade and culture in the ancient world. It was renowned for its botanical gardens and the cultivation of aromatic plants, which were used in perfumery and herbal medicine. The perfumer's recollection of flowers in his home in Alexandria thus draws on this rich tradition, infusing Lumière with a sense of exoticism and sophistication inspired by the city's botanical wealth.