Dolce Vita by Christian Dior c1994

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior: created by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger and launched in 1994.

Racarma

R. A. Carmichael & Co., manufacturing chemists of Detroit, placed on the market a new, high-grade line of toilet preparations under the trade name "Racarma" in 1915.

Sans Adieu by Worth c1929

Sans Adieu by Worth: launched in 1929.

Gymkana by Jean Desses c1960

In the 1960s, the concept of masculinity was deeply intertwined with themes of ruggedness, adventure, and tradition. Equestrianism, particularly in the context of sports and leisure activities, symbolized these ideals. Men were often portrayed as strong, assertive figures, embodying qualities of athleticism and sophistication. Films of the era often featured themes of horse racing, polo matches, and competitive riding, such as "National Velvet" (1944) and "The Horse Soldiers" (1959), which resonated with audiences and reinforced these ideals of masculinity.

Jean Desses, in naming his men's fragrance "Gymkana," drew upon this cultural backdrop. The word "Gymkana" itself originates from the Hindi word "jimkhana," meaning a place where sporting events take place, typically equestrian or athletic in nature. This term, adapted into English as "gymkhana," evokes images of skill, agility, and competition — qualities that align well with the active and confident persona associated with masculinity in the 1960s.

Choosing "Gymkana" as the name for a men's fragrance was a strategic decision. It not only evoked a sense of adventure and sportiness but also hinted at tradition and heritage, appealing to men who identified with these qualities. The scent would likely resonate with men of the time period, offering them a way to embody and express their idealized masculine identity through fragrance.

Theorema by Fendi c1998

In 1998, the time period in which Fendi launched "Theorema," the cultural landscape was influenced by a blend of optimism and sophistication. The late 1990s marked a period of technological advancement and economic prosperity in many parts of the world, fostering a sense of innovation and forward-thinking. This era also saw a resurgence of interest in retro styles and a celebration of individuality and self-expression.

In the realm of cinema, films often reflected this mix of nostalgia and modernity. Themes of mystery, elegance, and intellectual intrigue were prominent. Movies like "Eyes Wide Shut" (1999) directed by Stanley Kubrick and "The Matrix" (1999) directed by the Wachowskis explored complex ideas and realities, contributing to a cultural milieu where a fragrance like "Theorema" could find resonance.

Fendi's choice of the name "Theorema" for their perfume is intriguing. The word "Theorema" derives from Greek and Latin roots, referring to a proposition or theorem in mathematics and philosophy, embodying a sense of intellectual exploration and discovery. Naming a perfume "Theorema" suggests a blend of mystery, elegance, and intellectual allure, appealing to individuals who appreciate depth and sophistication in their fragrances.

For women of the late 1990s, "Theorema" would likely evoke a sense of empowerment and sophistication. The name suggests a perfume that is not merely a fragrance but an experience—an exploration of ideas and emotions. Women might be drawn to its enigmatic qualities and the promise of a scent that stimulates both the senses and the intellect.

The response to "Theorema" would likely be positive among women who seek uniqueness and sophistication in their perfume choices. The name itself conjures images of ancient manuscripts, mathematical symbols, and perhaps even the allure of the unknown, tapping into a desire for something distinctive and thought-provoking.

"Theorema" is indeed a unique name for a perfume. It stands out among the more traditional and descriptive names common in the fragrance industry, offering a blend of intellectualism and mystery that is rarely found in perfume branding. It suggests a narrative, inviting wearers to engage with the fragrance on a deeper level.

Ultimately, the word "Theorema" could be interpreted as a metaphor for the transformative power of scent—a theorem that unfolds differently on each wearer, revealing layers of emotion and experience. It encapsulates the idea of fragrance as more than just a cosmetic product, but as an expression of individuality and intrigue.

In summary, "Theorema" by Fendi, launched in 1998, reflects a time period of cultural curiosity and sophistication. Its name suggests intellectual allure and mystery, appealing to women who seek a fragrance that embodies depth and individuality. The word "Theorema" evokes images of exploration and discovery, making it a uniquely compelling choice for a perfume that promises to stimulate both the senses and the mind.

Chant Du Coeur by Shiseido c1992

Chant Du Coeur by Shiseido: launched in 1992. The fragrance, created by Edouard Flechier and manufactured in France was marketed in Japan. The name means "Song of the Heart" in French.

Vicky Tiel by Vicky Tiel c1990

Vicky Tiel by Vicky Tiel: launched in 1990. In USA in 1991. Also known as "Vicky Tiel Originale".

Vicky Tiel is an American fashion designer who gained prominence for her glamorous and sophisticated designs. Her foray into the world of fragrances was a natural extension of her brand, which epitomizes elegance and luxury.

Parfum d'Ete by Kenzo c1992

Parfum d'Été by Kenzo: launched in 1992. Created by Christian Mathieu of IFF/Tamaris S.A.

The name means "Perfume of Summer" in French, summer just happens to be Kenzo's favourite season.

Parfumerie Hera

Parfumerie Hera, also known as Parfums Hera, established by Marthe-Jeanne Thibault at 81-83 rue de Cherzy, Neuilly, Seine in 1910; cosmetic, perfumes and toiletries. The company also sold gold tipped "Egyptian Soir d'Orient" cigarettes. The company lasted until the late 1920s.

c1919

Je Reviens by Worth c1932

Je Reviens by Worth: launched in 1932. Created by Maurice Blanchet.

Kai Sang by Corday c1924

Kai Sang by Corday: launched in 1924. The name may mean "To Be Triumphant" in Chinese.

Naomi by Naomi Sims c1979

Naomi by Naomi Sims: launched in 1979. It was created by Roure Bertrand Dupont, Inc.

Jaipur by Boucheron c1994

Jaipur by Boucheron: launched in 1994. Created by Sophia Grojsman and Jean-Pierre Mary. The perfume was named after a village in India that was once home to the Maharajah of Patiala.

Paradis by Saks Fifth Avenue c1982

Paradis by Saks Fifth Avenue: launched in 1982. Paradis was Sak's own private label perfume, which they claimed was created to be a reflection of Saks Fifth Avenue and the Saks Fifth Avenue woman. This is not the first time that a department store launched their own fragrance line, Neiman Marcus brought out Volage and NM, Bloomingdales had it's Bloomie's.

Elysium by Clarins c1993

Elysium by Clarins: launched in 1993.

Myth of Saso by Shiseido c1980

Myth of Saso: launched in 1980. It is dedicated to the ancient legend of the beautiful queen Kohi.

 

Parfum Rare by Jacomo c1985

Parfum Rare by Jacomo: launched in 1985. Created by IFF.

Misha by Mikhail Baryshnikov c1989

Misha by Mikhail Baryshnikov 1989. His nickname; in association with Richard Barrie Fragrances.

Daniel de Fasson by Daniel de Fasson c1990

Daniel de Fasson by Daniel de Fasson: launched in 1990 in association with Parlux SA. . Also known as Daniel de Fasson pour Femme.

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey c1924

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey: launched in 1924. Originally created by perfumer Jean Jacques as a woman's perfume.

The name evoking the ancient Tunisian city of Carthage.

L’Ardente Nuit by Corday c1930

L’Ardente Nuit by Corday: launched in 1930. The name means "The Fiery Night" in French. It was suggested to be worn with "rich fabrics and furs."

Adolfo by Frances Denney c1978

Adolfo by Frances Denney: launched in 1978. Created as the signature fragrance for Adolfo Sardina, the Cuban born fashion designer.  He had a salon at 36 East 57th Street in New York.  Sardina, who has never used his surname professionally, started designing hats in New York in the early 1950's and opened a millinery salon in 1963.

Intoxication by D'Orsay c1938

In 1938, the world was on the brink of World War II, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression still palpable. This was a period marked by a desire for escapism and glamour amidst uncertainties and hardships. The fashion and beauty industries often responded to such times by offering products that promised a temporary reprieve from reality, allowing people to indulge in fantasies and pleasures. "Intoxication" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched during this era, embodying this very spirit of escapism and allure. Notably, this was also a few years after the end of Prohibition in the United States, a time when society was embracing newfound freedoms and celebrating the return of legal alcohol consumption, which added to the zeitgeist of indulgence and revelry.

Parfums D'Orsay choosing the name "Intoxication" for their perfume speaks volumes about the emotional and sensory experience they aimed to evoke. The word "intoxication" suggests a state of being overwhelmed by powerful feelings or sensations, often associated with love and passion. In connection with love, "intoxication" conveys the idea of being so deeply enamored and consumed by another person that one feels a heady, almost dizzying sense of euphoria. This is an apt metaphor for a fragrance, which has the power to evoke strong emotional responses and create lasting impressions. In the context of the post-Prohibition era, the name also hints at a liberated, joyous embrace of pleasure and indulgence.

"Intoxication" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the transformative and alluring nature of fragrances. Perfume can create an almost magical effect, enhancing one's presence and evoking deep-seated emotions and memories. A scent that claims to intoxicate suggests that it can captivate and enthrall, much like the feeling of falling in love or being swept away by a powerful emotion. The end of Prohibition had seen a resurgence in nightlife and social gatherings, where people sought to enjoy themselves freely, and a perfume named "Intoxication" would perfectly complement this atmosphere of revelry.

In the context of perfumery, "Intoxication" relates to the concept of creating a compelling and irresistible fragrance. Perfumers aim to craft scents that can evoke strong, almost addictive responses. The name implies that the perfume has a potent and unforgettable quality, designed to leave a lasting impression on those who encounter it.

"Intoxication, the champagne fragrance that whispers 'Someone lovely has just passed by' wearing Intoxication".

Diorling by Christian Dior c1963

Diorling by Christian Dior: created by Paul Vacher and launched in 1963. The name Diorling was a play on Darling. Christian Dior adored all things British and this was his take on how the upper classes pronounced Darling.

Gloria Swanson and Perfume

Famous actress Gloria Swanson was a collector of perfume bottles. Only a few photos survive showing her with some, mostly from her films. I wonder if she supplied her own bottles to be used during filming. I do know that she wore Youth Dew by Estee Lauder, Shocking by Schiaparelli, Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci, Narcisse Noir by Caron, Breathless by Charbert,  My Alibi by Renoir, Joy by Jean Patou, Cabochard by Gres, Five O'Clock by Gourielli, Casma by Caswell Massey, Black Satin by Angelique, White Satin by Angelique, Sortilege by Le Galion, Command Performance by Helena Rubinstein, Chypre by Coty, Le Fruit Defendu by Rosine, Shining Hour by Jacqueline Cochran.

Shalimar by Guerlain c1925

Shalimar perfume was originally created in 1921 by Guerlain. It was re-released during the Art Deco Exhibition in Paris in 1925. I have separate blog posts on Shalimar bottles and its flanker scents on my Guerlain blog site.

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe c1953

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe, launched in 1953, is a fragrance that carries with it a name rich in cultural and emotional significance. The word "Mistigri" is French and is often associated with the image of a mischievous, playful cat. The term originates from the French language, where "Mistigri" or "Mistou" is a colloquial name for a cat, particularly one that is endearing, cunning, or even a little mysterious. The name has been used in French literature and popular culture, sometimes as a character name, depicting a creature or a person with a playful yet elusive nature. The name "Mistigri" carries dual meanings in French, referring both to a cat and to the "Jack of Clubs" in a deck of cards.

Jacques Griffe's choice of the name Mistigri for his 1953 fragrance suggests a deliberate evocation of these characteristics. The image of a cat, with its grace, mystery, and playful unpredictability, aligns with the nature of the fragrance itself—a spicy green composition designed for women. The fragrance likely intended to capture a sense of feminine allure that is both captivating and a little enigmatic, much like a cat that one cannot fully understand or predict. The name "Mistigri" would evoke feelings of intrigue, charm, and subtle seduction, making it a fitting and unique name for a perfume.

The choice of such a name also aligns with the broader context of the early 1950s, a time when the world was emerging from the austerity of the post-war period and beginning to embrace a new sense of glamour, sophistication, and freedom. The 1950s saw the rise of more adventurous and bold fragrances, as women sought to express themselves in ways that had been restrained during the war years. Mistigri, with its spicy green notes, would have stood out as a unique and daring choice, offering something different from the more traditional floral or powdery scents that had dominated earlier decades.

In the context of other fragrances on the market at the time, Mistigri could be seen as both aligning with and diverging from the trends. The early 1950s was a period marked by a growing interest in more complex, multi-dimensional fragrances that combined floral notes with deeper, spicier, or woodier accords. Mistigri fits this trend with its spicy green composition, yet the specific blend of notes and the playful, feline-inspired name set it apart as a distinctive offering. While many fragrances of the era aimed to evoke a sense of classic elegance, Mistigri might have appealed to women who wanted to express a more playful, independent, and slightly mysterious side of their personality.

Vendetta Pour Femme by Valentino c1991

Also known as Vendetta Donna. Created by the perfumers from IFF in association with Elizabeth Arden Creative Marketing Dept..

Sun Moon Stars by Karl Lagerfeld c1994

Sun Moon Stars by Karl Lagerfeld: launched in 1994 in association with Unilever. Created by Sophia Grojsman of IFF.

Black Casket by Novaya Zarya c1947

Black Casket by Novaya Zarya: launched in 1947. Chyornyi Larets  (Tchernyi Larets)  черный гроб

The perfume was created by Vitkovskaya A.P.

Black Casket was imported into the United States by an American company known as The Russian Shop, who imported various Russian fragrances in the 1960s.

The name was said to be changed to "Treasure Chest" by 1961.

 Anglo-American News - Volume 28, 1961:

"Russian marketing experts show an acute sense of the problems of product presentation and merchandising in foreign markets. For instance, a big-selling perfume on the Soviet domestic-market, Black Casket, has been renamed Treasure Chest."

PERFUME HACK - Removing the Odor of Perfume

How to Remove Perfume Odor on the Skin:

Ever have stubborn perfume odor that lingers on your hands even after washing them over and over again? If you want to get it removed, you can use this quick hack:

• Take one part of household ammonia and mix it with three parts water. Rinse your hands in this mixture a few times and then wash your hands with soap and water. It should take the perfume smell away. Remember, you must use the diluted ammonia to keep the skin from getting irritated. 

• Another quick method is to make a paste of baking soda and water, apply it onto the skin where the perfume odor remains and rub gently. Then rinse off.  

How to Remove Perfume Odor from Clothing or Linens:

Sprayed your favorite perfume on your nice dress? How about your scarf, does it seem to retain the odor of last year's perfume? Did you purchase a second hand garment and want to get that stinky perfume smell out of it? A good alkali will kill the odor of almost any perfume and again, household ammonia will help you out! It also will help boost the performance of your detergent and brighten your whites.

• You can add 1/2 cup of household ammonia to the water, along with the detergent, before you add clothes into the washing machine. If you are hand washing, you can try the method of one part ammonia to three parts water and a little bit of detergent so that it will not irritate your skin while you wash. Rinse and repeat if necessary.   

• Another method is to soak clothing in a sink or washing machine filled with warm water and one cup baking soda before washing. 

• Some peroxide will also help take the perfume stains out of your linens. You may wish to do a separate rinse with this ingredient. 

• Fill a spray bottle with cheap, high proof vodka. Then spray on the perfumed area of your clothing. The vodka dries odorless and  should kill any scent. This is an effective method if you cannot wash the garment such as silk.

How to Remove Perfume Odor from Empty Bottles:

Question from a reader: I would like to put a new fragrance in my glass perfume bottle, but the scent of the last remains. How can I rid the container of this aroma?

Answer: First fill the bottle with rubbing alcohol and allow this to remain overnight. Empty the bottle and rinse with water.

Want to reuse a perfume bottle for another purpose, or refill it with another? You may find that the odor of some perfumes persist even after all the liquid has evaporated or been cleaned out. Before adding a new perfume, this must be removed. Here is a handy method for anyone who wishes to reuse an atomizer and get the scent of the previous perfume out for good!

• Wash it with hot soap and water using a bottle brush. Rinse with clear water. Then fill the bottle with a strong solution of borax and warm water and let stand for several hours. Then empty the bottle and rinse again. An alkali will kill the odor of almost any perfume.

• If this method does not work, or you do not have borax on hand, you can use household ammonia. But do not dilute it, pour it straight from the bottle into the perfume bottle, insert the stopper and allow it to stand for a few hours. Then you can empty it and rinse with warm soapy water.

• To remove odor from bath salts bottles and jars so that they could be use for fruits or other foods, fill the bottle or jar with a very strong solution of hot water and apple cider vinegar (about 1/4 cup vinegar). Let stand a couple of hours; rinse with hot water, then add another mixture of vinegar and water if necessary, and you will find odor will have completely disappeared. Just washing with soap and water will not take away the smell.

How to Remove Perfume Spillage Odor from Carpet or Upholstery:

Did you accidentally knock over a bottle of perfume onto the rug or sofa and now the smell is overpowering?

• Mix one quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle to get rid of perfume odor in carpet or on upholstery. Spray the affected area and let sit for 24 hours. Blot away the excess with a paper towel and let air dry.

Eau de Fleurs by Nina Ricci c1980

Eau de Fleurs by Nina Ricci: launched in 1980. Created by Betty Busse as an eau de toilette. A more intense version of the fragrance named Fleurs de Fleurs, in eau de parfum concentration was also released in 1982.

Safranor by LT Piver c1901

Safranor by LT Piver: launched in 1901. (Trademark filed in 1904, Piver claimed use of the name since 1901.)

Elgin American Beauty Compacts, Cigarette Cases & Lighters c1951 Advertisement

Elgin American Beauty Compacts, cigarette cases and lighters shown in an advertisement in a from a 1951 General American Co. catalog.

Master Merchandise Corp

Master Merchandise Corp., based in New York, was a fragrance distribution brand that operated during the 1950s. Their business model revolved around creating knockoffs of popular fragrances, cleverly naming their products after well-known plays, songs, or movies of the era. This approach not only captured the zeitgeist of the time but also allowed them to capitalize on the widespread recognition of these cultural references. Despite this strategic marketing, Master Merchandise Corp. was a short-lived enterprise, quickly fading from the competitive fragrance market.

The company was associated with several brand names, each with its own unique history and connection to the fragrance industry. Codell, Inc. and Miss Codell were two such brands, likely developed to appeal to different segments of the market. The former may have been positioned as a general brand, while the latter perhaps targeted a more feminine audience, reflecting the gendered marketing strategies common in that era.

Another affiliated brand was Vivian Parfums Inc., which originally started as a brand under Vivaudou, a company known for its perfumes and cosmetics in the early 20th century. The acquisition or rebranding of Vivian Parfums by Master Merchandise Corp. indicates a strategic attempt to leverage an established name in the industry, although it’s unclear how successful this endeavor was.

Lastly, Peggy Page was another brand linked to Master Merchandise Corp. This brand originally belonged to Klinker Manufacturing Co., having been established in 1926. The revival or repurposing of Peggy Page under Master Merchandise Corp. suggests a desire to bring back a recognizable name from a previous era, possibly to evoke a sense of nostalgia or reliability among consumers.

While Master Merchandise Corp.’s time in the fragrance industry was brief, their approach to branding and marketing reflects the mid-20th century's broader trends of capitalizing on popular culture and the evolving landscape of fragrance distribution.

Murasaki by Shiseido c1980

Murasaki by Shiseido: launched in 1980. Created by Jean-Claude Astier.

The name translates to "purple" which is reflected in the bottle design which features purple accents. The name also refers to Lady Shikibu Murasaki, the Chinese royal court figure of the 11th century who penned the love story "Tale of Ghenj".

Vers le Jour by Worth c1924

Vers le Jour by Worth: (Towards Dawn) launched in 1924, in USA by 1925. Created by Maurice Blanchet.

Farouche by Nina Ricci c1973

Farouche by Nina Ricci:  launched in 1973. Created by Michel Hy, it was composed of over 100 ingredients with the property of unfolding its full effect on contact with skin, creating a fragrance unique to its wearer.

Jet by Corday c1924

Jet by Corday: launched in 1924. Originally named "Jet Parfume" from 1924 until around 1929.

Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan by Novaya Zarya c1949

"Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan" by Novaya Zarya, launched around 1949, is a fragrance released in honor of the 150th anniversary of the birth of Alexander Pushkin, the renowned Russian poet and author.

 Alongside "Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan," Novaya Zarya also released two other perfumes: "Queen of Spades" and "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish." These fragrances likely draw inspiration from the classic works of Pushkin, capturing the essence of his literary masterpieces in olfactory form. 

"Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan" in particular may evoke the magical and whimsical elements of Pushkin's famous fairy tale, offering wearers a sensory journey into the world of Russian folklore and literature. The inclusion of such fragrances in Novaya Zarya's collection showcases the brand's commitment to celebrating Russian culture and heritage through the art of perfumery.

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