Les Parfums de Clamy, Creations d'Art

Philippe de Back, later known as Philippe Back de Surany, founded the prestigious company 'Les Parfums de Clamy, Creations d'Art' in 1913 in the renowned Arcade des Champs-Elysées in Paris. The company's name was trademarked earlier in 1900. Philippe de Back was born in Budapest in 1860 and passed away in Paris in 1956. His father was Maurice Back, and Philippe himself became a distinguished Egyptologist and businessman.

Philippe managed the Cairo branch of the Back Orosdi Institutions and was honored with knighthood by the Emperor of Austria in 1909. The company's factory, known as Fabrique de Parfumerie (Parfums de Clamy), was located at 30, avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris, with an additional manufacturing site in Asnières at 108, avenue d'Argenteuil. The business had Austrian origins and, at one point, was managed by a liquidator named M. Navarre.

Les Parfums de Clamy was renowned for its luxurious perfume presentations, often featuring exquisite bottles designed by the famous jeweler and artist Lucien Gaillard. Between 1915 and 1919, some of these bottles were further adorned with artwork by Robert and Sonia Delaunay, who were close friends with Philippe and his wife, reflecting the company's deep connections with contemporary art and culture.

In 1926, Philippe Back de Surany's youngest daughter, Germaine Carvaillo, took over the direction of 'Les Parfums de Clamy, Creations d'Art'. Despite her efforts, the business struggled to survive during the Great Depression and ultimately closed its doors in 1930. Following the closure, the company sold all its remaining essential oils and materials to Guerlain, a prominent name in the perfume industry.

In 1943, the remnants of 'Les Parfums de Clamy' were acquired by Grenoville, another established perfume house. This marked the end of an era for the company, which had been known for its luxurious and artistically designed perfume bottles and its connections with notable artists such as Robert and Sonia Delaunay.

Parfums Grenoville

Parfums Grenoville, originally established as Parfumerie Grenoville by Paul Grenoville in 1879, has a fascinating history rooted in the heart of Paris. The founder, Paul Grenoville, chose to change his family name from 'grenouille', which translates to 'frog' in French, to 'Grenoville', likely to add a more elegant and sophisticated touch to the brand's identity. This subtle yet significant change helped position the brand within the luxurious and refined world of Parisian perfumery. Located at 20 rue Royale, the house of Grenoville became known for its exquisite fragrances, contributing to the rich tapestry of Paris's renowned perfumery heritage.

Ballarde, Inc

Ballarde, Inc, founded by Martin de Markoff, made a significant mark in the world of fragrances between 1930 and 1945. Their perfumes were renowned for their luxurious scents and exquisite packaging, capturing the essence of elegance and sophistication. Their affiliation with Prince George of Russia added to the prestige of the brand, as it brought together two entities known for their commitment to quality and refinement in the world of perfumery. This collaboration likely contributed to the enduring legacy of Ballarde, Inc as a notable player in the perfume industry during that era.

KL by Karl Lagerfeld c1982

KL by Karl Lagerfeld: launched in 1982. Created by Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich.

Callisté

Callisté. Established by Charles de Coppet at 130 rue de France, Nice in 1918. It seems that their fragrances were launched starting from 1926 onwards.

What are Woody Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Woody:

fragrances derive their scents from aromatic woods such as sandalwood, patchouli, aloes, cedar, agarwood (oud), rosewood, cypress, tobacco, tonka, pine and scents like oak moss which are reminiscent of the odor of the forest floor. Usually accompanied by other notes such as citrus, herbs, spices, incense, and balsamic notes like vanilla or benzoin. Animalic notes such as ambergris, leather, musk, castoreum and civet often give depth to woody fragrances and enhance their longevity.

The subdivisions of classifications in this family are:

Woody Amber

Woody Aquatic

Woody Aromatic

Woody Chypre

Woody Floral 

Woody Floral Musk

Woody Hesperidic Coniferous

Woody Oriental

Woody Spicy

Woody Spicy Leather

Nocturne by Barbara Gould c1952

Nocturne by Barbara Gould: launched in 1952. When the fragrance debuted at B. Altman's department store, a female harpist strummed along the notes to Chopin's Nocturne. Harpist Evans was dressed to match the "Nocturne" bottle, in a gold dome hat by Sally Victor and a chic black sheath dress.

Auzière

Auzière of Paris and Marseille, France; launched a range of fragrances from c1920 to 1950’s, also had an office in Nashville, TN.

Byzance by Grenoville c1926

 Byzance by Grenoville, was originally launched under the name Nikys in 1926, but was quickly changed to Byzance, for reasons unknown. It could be that a rival perfumer already trademarked the name Nikys prior to Grenoville.

Richard D. Young Perfumery Co.

The Richard D. Young Perfumery Co. was located at 351 Broadway New York City, another address was listed at 100 William Street New York City.