Bullock, Ward & Co

Bullock, Ward & Co. of Chicago, Illinois were manufacturers of soap, perfumes, pure food flavor extracts and toilet specialties. The company was established in 1899 by Thomas H. Bullock and Phillip T. Ward, and primarily dealt in the mail order business.

Le Parfum Ideal by Houbigant c1896

Le Parfum Ideal was created by Houbigant by in house perfumer, Paul Parquet in 1896, but it was launched for the first time at the 1900 Worlds Fair, along with another perfume Coeur de Jeanette.

The quintessential label for Le Parfum Ideal features a Gibson Girl sniffing a flower, this label was made of gilded foil and heavily embossed.

Mademoiselle Ricci by Nina Ricci c1967

Mademoiselle Ricci by Nina Ricci: launched in 1967. An eau de toilette created for young girls by

Michel Hy.

Cialenga by Balenciaga c1973

Cialenga by Balenciaga: launched in 1973 and created by perfumer Jacques Jantzen.

Courant by Helena Rubinstein c1972

Courant by Helena Rubinstein: launched in 1972. Created by Max Gavarry. Courant was reportedly formulated to change with a woman's body temperature.

Halston

Halston (pronounced HALL'-STON).

Established by fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932-1990) in Des Moines; started as a milliner. There is tons of info on Halston online, so I won't go into that here, but I will concentrate on his fragrances.

Directoire by Charles of the Ritz c1946

In 1946, Directoire by Charles of the Ritz was launched into a world emerging from the devastation of World War II. This early post-war period was marked by significant societal shifts and economic recovery efforts, particularly in Europe, where the Marshall Plan was soon to be implemented to rebuild economies. The transition from a wartime to a peacetime economy meant the demobilization of soldiers and a complex adjustment for women who had joined the workforce during the war and were now expected to return to domestic roles. Fashion and culture, however, began to experience a resurgence as wartime rationing ended, with luxury goods and fashion reclaiming their places in society. Christian Dior’s "New Look," introduced in 1947, emphasized femininity and opulence, sharply contrasting the austere styles of the wartime period.

The inspiration for the perfume, the Directoire period, spanned from 1795 to 1799 and followed the tumultuous years of the French Revolution and the Reign of Terror. Governed by a directory of five directors, this era represented a time of relative stability and cultural rejuvenation before the rise of Napoleon Bonaparte. The period was distinguished by a return to classical influences in art, fashion, and architecture. Women's fashion during the Directoire period featured empire waist dresses that allowed greater movement and comfort, moving away from the restrictive corsets and elaborate gowns of the earlier 18th century. This simplicity and elegance, inspired by classical Greek and Roman styles, were defining characteristics of the era's fashion.

For women in the post-World War II era, the Directoire period's fashion and cultural shifts had a particular appeal. After enduring years of wartime austerity and utilitarian clothing, women longed for a return to elegance, luxury, and femininity. The classical elegance of the Directoire period resonated with this sentiment, symbolizing both a break from the past's restrictions and a renewed focus on comfort and beauty. The Directoire period also represented a time of rebuilding and re-establishing social order after revolutionary chaos, mirroring the post-war period's spirit of reconstruction and renewal.

Naming the perfume "Directoire" evoked the sophistication and classical beauty of this historical era, appealing to women who desired to embrace a sense of historical glamour. The association with a period of cultural renaissance and new beginnings made it an appealing inspiration for a luxury product like perfume. Directoire by Charles of the Ritz encapsulated the longing for elegance, stability, and a return to classical beauty in a world recovering from the upheaval of war.

DIRECTOIRE ... the fragrance of an epoch of splendour, distilled for you by Charles of the Ritz Bottled, packaged, sealed in France. 

André Chapus Parfumeur

André Chapus, 11 bis Avenue Mac-Mahon, Paris, launched a range of perfumes and cosmetics in the 1940s.

 

Arpege by Lanvin c1927

Arpège by Lanvin, launched in 1927, is one of the house's most iconic perfumes, created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher. Its name, "Arpège," is drawn from the musical term "arpeggio," a sequence of notes played in quick succession rather than simultaneously. This reference to music was a personal tribute from Jeanne Lanvin to her only daughter, Marie-Blanche, who was a talented pianist. The name "Arpège" originates from French, and it resonates with imagery of elegance, grace, and harmony—qualities that embody both music and the fragrance itself.

The word "Arpège" evokes a sense of movement and rhythm. In a musical context, an arpeggio is a fluid, ascending or descending cascade of notes, creating a sense of flow and beauty. Translating this into a scent, "Arpège" suggests a perfume that unfolds in layers, with notes that rise and intertwine, much like the notes of a musical composition. The fragrance would be interpreted as sophisticated, delicate, yet dynamic—a melody of floral and aldehydic notes that harmonize to form an intricate and balanced whole.

Women in the 1920s would have related to a perfume named "Arpège" as something sophisticated and refined, likely associating it with the elegance of the modern, artistic woman. The Roaring Twenties were marked by a period of social and cultural transformation, with women embracing new freedoms, from fashion to lifestyle. They were stepping into public life more prominently, and a fragrance like Arpège would have appealed to their desire for luxury and individuality. The name itself, with its musical connotations, would have attracted women who appreciated art and refinement, as music and culture were highly regarded during this period.

At the time of its launch, the perfume landscape was rich with innovation. Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921, had introduced aldehydic florals into the mainstream, setting a trend for modern, abstract fragrances. However, Arpège distinguished itself through its complex, highly layered structure, composed of over 60 natural ingredients. It was classified as a floral aldehyde, much like its contemporaries, but with a softer, more romantic floral heart, emphasizing jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley. The use of aldehydes added a sparkling brightness to the bouquet, making the scent feel modern yet timeless.

The era saw the rise of opulent, multi-faceted fragrances that mirrored the complexity of the evolving social landscape. While Arpège followed certain trends, such as the use of aldehydes and florals, it was unique for its depth and sophistication, reflecting Jeanne Lanvin’s dedication to craftsmanship and artistry. It was a fragrance that stood for luxury, grace, and emotional expression, much like the music its name was drawn from.

Intimate by Revlon c1955

Intimate by Revlon: launched in 1955, created by IFF.