Gloria Swanson and Perfume

Famous actress Gloria Swanson was a collector of perfume bottles. Only a few photos survive showing her with some, mostly from her films. I wonder if she supplied her own bottles to be used during filming. I do know that she wore Youth Dew by Estee Lauder, Shocking by Schiaparelli, Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci, Narcisse Noir by Caron, Breathless by Charbert,  My Alibi by Renoir, Joy by Jean Patou, Cabochard by Gres, Five O'Clock by Gourielli, Casma by Caswell Massey, Black Satin by Angelique, White Satin by Angelique, Sortilege by Le Galion, Command Performance by Helena Rubinstein, Chypre by Coty, Le Fruit Defendu by Rosine, Shining Hour by Jacqueline Cochran.

Shalimar by Guerlain c1925

Shalimar perfume was originally created in 1921 by Guerlain. It was re-released during the Art Deco Exhibition in Paris in 1925. I have separate blog posts on Shalimar bottles and its flanker scents on my Guerlain blog site.

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe c1953

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe, launched in 1953, is a fragrance that carries with it a name rich in cultural and emotional significance. The word "Mistigri" is French and is often associated with the image of a mischievous, playful cat. The term originates from the French language, where "Mistigri" or "Mistou" is a colloquial name for a cat, particularly one that is endearing, cunning, or even a little mysterious. The name has been used in French literature and popular culture, sometimes as a character name, depicting a creature or a person with a playful yet elusive nature. The name "Mistigri" carries dual meanings in French, referring both to a cat and to the "Jack of Clubs" in a deck of cards.

Jacques Griffe's choice of the name Mistigri for his 1953 fragrance suggests a deliberate evocation of these characteristics. The image of a cat, with its grace, mystery, and playful unpredictability, aligns with the nature of the fragrance itself—a spicy green composition designed for women. The fragrance likely intended to capture a sense of feminine allure that is both captivating and a little enigmatic, much like a cat that one cannot fully understand or predict. The name "Mistigri" would evoke feelings of intrigue, charm, and subtle seduction, making it a fitting and unique name for a perfume.

The choice of such a name also aligns with the broader context of the early 1950s, a time when the world was emerging from the austerity of the post-war period and beginning to embrace a new sense of glamour, sophistication, and freedom. The 1950s saw the rise of more adventurous and bold fragrances, as women sought to express themselves in ways that had been restrained during the war years. Mistigri, with its spicy green notes, would have stood out as a unique and daring choice, offering something different from the more traditional floral or powdery scents that had dominated earlier decades.

In the context of other fragrances on the market at the time, Mistigri could be seen as both aligning with and diverging from the trends. The early 1950s was a period marked by a growing interest in more complex, multi-dimensional fragrances that combined floral notes with deeper, spicier, or woodier accords. Mistigri fits this trend with its spicy green composition, yet the specific blend of notes and the playful, feline-inspired name set it apart as a distinctive offering. While many fragrances of the era aimed to evoke a sense of classic elegance, Mistigri might have appealed to women who wanted to express a more playful, independent, and slightly mysterious side of their personality.

Vendetta Pour Femme by Valentino c1991

Also known as Vendetta Donna. Created by the perfumers from IFF in association with Elizabeth Arden Creative Marketing Dept..

Sun Moon Stars by Karl Lagerfeld c1994

Sun Moon Stars by Karl Lagerfeld: launched in 1994 in association with Unilever. Created by Sophia Grojsman of IFF.

Black Casket by Novaya Zarya c1947

Black Casket by Novaya Zarya: launched in 1947. Chyornyi Larets  (Tchernyi Larets)  черный гроб

The perfume was created by Vitkovskaya A.P.

Black Casket was imported into the United States by an American company known as The Russian Shop, who imported various Russian fragrances in the 1960s.

The name was said to be changed to "Treasure Chest" by 1961.

 Anglo-American News - Volume 28, 1961:

"Russian marketing experts show an acute sense of the problems of product presentation and merchandising in foreign markets. For instance, a big-selling perfume on the Soviet domestic-market, Black Casket, has been renamed Treasure Chest."

PERFUME HACK - Removing the Odor of Perfume

How to Remove Perfume Odor on the Skin:

Ever have stubborn perfume odor that lingers on your hands even after washing them over and over again? If you want to get it removed, you can use this quick hack:

• Take one part of household ammonia and mix it with three parts water. Rinse your hands in this mixture a few times and then wash your hands with soap and water. It should take the perfume smell away. Remember, you must use the diluted ammonia to keep the skin from getting irritated. 

• Another quick method is to make a paste of baking soda and water, apply it onto the skin where the perfume odor remains and rub gently. Then rinse off.  

How to Remove Perfume Odor from Clothing or Linens:

Sprayed your favorite perfume on your nice dress? How about your scarf, does it seem to retain the odor of last year's perfume? Did you purchase a second hand garment and want to get that stinky perfume smell out of it? A good alkali will kill the odor of almost any perfume and again, household ammonia will help you out! It also will help boost the performance of your detergent and brighten your whites.

• You can add 1/2 cup of household ammonia to the water, along with the detergent, before you add clothes into the washing machine. If you are hand washing, you can try the method of one part ammonia to three parts water and a little bit of detergent so that it will not irritate your skin while you wash. Rinse and repeat if necessary.   

• Another method is to soak clothing in a sink or washing machine filled with warm water and one cup baking soda before washing. 

• Some peroxide will also help take the perfume stains out of your linens. You may wish to do a separate rinse with this ingredient. 

• Fill a spray bottle with cheap, high proof vodka. Then spray on the perfumed area of your clothing. The vodka dries odorless and  should kill any scent. This is an effective method if you cannot wash the garment such as silk.

How to Remove Perfume Odor from Empty Bottles:

Question from a reader: I would like to put a new fragrance in my glass perfume bottle, but the scent of the last remains. How can I rid the container of this aroma?

Answer: First fill the bottle with rubbing alcohol and allow this to remain overnight. Empty the bottle and rinse with water.

Want to reuse a perfume bottle for another purpose, or refill it with another? You may find that the odor of some perfumes persist even after all the liquid has evaporated or been cleaned out. Before adding a new perfume, this must be removed. Here is a handy method for anyone who wishes to reuse an atomizer and get the scent of the previous perfume out for good!

• Wash it with hot soap and water using a bottle brush. Rinse with clear water. Then fill the bottle with a strong solution of borax and warm water and let stand for several hours. Then empty the bottle and rinse again. An alkali will kill the odor of almost any perfume.

• If this method does not work, or you do not have borax on hand, you can use household ammonia. But do not dilute it, pour it straight from the bottle into the perfume bottle, insert the stopper and allow it to stand for a few hours. Then you can empty it and rinse with warm soapy water.

• To remove odor from bath salts bottles and jars so that they could be use for fruits or other foods, fill the bottle or jar with a very strong solution of hot water and apple cider vinegar (about 1/4 cup vinegar). Let stand a couple of hours; rinse with hot water, then add another mixture of vinegar and water if necessary, and you will find odor will have completely disappeared. Just washing with soap and water will not take away the smell.

How to Remove Perfume Spillage Odor from Carpet or Upholstery:

Did you accidentally knock over a bottle of perfume onto the rug or sofa and now the smell is overpowering?

• Mix one quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle to get rid of perfume odor in carpet or on upholstery. Spray the affected area and let sit for 24 hours. Blot away the excess with a paper towel and let air dry.

Eau de Fleurs by Nina Ricci c1980

Eau de Fleurs by Nina Ricci: launched in 1980. Created by Betty Busse as an eau de toilette. A more intense version of the fragrance named Fleurs de Fleurs, in eau de parfum concentration was also released in 1982.

Safranor by LT Piver c1901

Safranor by LT Piver: launched in 1901. (Trademark filed in 1904, Piver claimed use of the name since 1901.)

Elgin American Beauty Compacts, Cigarette Cases & Lighters c1951 Advertisement

Elgin American Beauty Compacts, cigarette cases and lighters shown in an advertisement in a from a 1951 General American Co. catalog.

Master Merchandise Corp

Master Merchandise Corp., based in New York, was a fragrance distribution brand that operated during the 1950s. Their business model revolved around creating knockoffs of popular fragrances, cleverly naming their products after well-known plays, songs, or movies of the era. This approach not only captured the zeitgeist of the time but also allowed them to capitalize on the widespread recognition of these cultural references. Despite this strategic marketing, Master Merchandise Corp. was a short-lived enterprise, quickly fading from the competitive fragrance market.

The company was associated with several brand names, each with its own unique history and connection to the fragrance industry. Codell, Inc. and Miss Codell were two such brands, likely developed to appeal to different segments of the market. The former may have been positioned as a general brand, while the latter perhaps targeted a more feminine audience, reflecting the gendered marketing strategies common in that era.

Another affiliated brand was Vivian Parfums Inc., which originally started as a brand under Vivaudou, a company known for its perfumes and cosmetics in the early 20th century. The acquisition or rebranding of Vivian Parfums by Master Merchandise Corp. indicates a strategic attempt to leverage an established name in the industry, although it’s unclear how successful this endeavor was.

Lastly, Peggy Page was another brand linked to Master Merchandise Corp. This brand originally belonged to Klinker Manufacturing Co., having been established in 1926. The revival or repurposing of Peggy Page under Master Merchandise Corp. suggests a desire to bring back a recognizable name from a previous era, possibly to evoke a sense of nostalgia or reliability among consumers.

While Master Merchandise Corp.’s time in the fragrance industry was brief, their approach to branding and marketing reflects the mid-20th century's broader trends of capitalizing on popular culture and the evolving landscape of fragrance distribution.

Murasaki by Shiseido c1980

Murasaki by Shiseido: launched in 1980. Created by Jean-Claude Astier.

The name translates to "purple" which is reflected in the bottle design which features purple accents. The name also refers to Lady Shikibu Murasaki, the Chinese royal court figure of the 11th century who penned the love story "Tale of Ghenj".

Vers le Jour by Worth c1924

Vers le Jour by Worth: (Towards Dawn) launched in 1924, in USA by 1925. Created by Maurice Blanchet.

Farouche by Nina Ricci c1973

Farouche by Nina Ricci:  launched in 1973. Created by Michel Hy, it was composed of over 100 ingredients with the property of unfolding its full effect on contact with skin, creating a fragrance unique to its wearer.

Jet by Corday c1924

Jet by Corday: launched in 1924. Originally named "Jet Parfume" from 1924 until around 1929.

Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan by Novaya Zarya c1949

"Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan" by Novaya Zarya, launched around 1949, is a fragrance released in honor of the 150th anniversary of the birth of Alexander Pushkin, the renowned Russian poet and author.

 Alongside "Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan," Novaya Zarya also released two other perfumes: "Queen of Spades" and "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish." These fragrances likely draw inspiration from the classic works of Pushkin, capturing the essence of his literary masterpieces in olfactory form. 

"Fairy Tale of Tsar Saltan" in particular may evoke the magical and whimsical elements of Pushkin's famous fairy tale, offering wearers a sensory journey into the world of Russian folklore and literature. The inclusion of such fragrances in Novaya Zarya's collection showcases the brand's commitment to celebrating Russian culture and heritage through the art of perfumery.

Новая Заря: СКАЗКА О ЦАРЕ САЛТАНЕ

Poeme by Lancome c1995

Poéme by Lancôme: launched in 1995. Created by Jacques Cavallier.

Diorissimo by Christian Dior c1956

Diorissimo by Christian Dior: created by Edmond Roudnitska and launched in 1956.

MW de Messire c1972

MW de Messire: launched in 1972 in association with Jean d'Albret/Orlane. In USA in 1973.  It was created for the young career orientated, active women who were tired of the more flowery perfumes.

The MW stands for "Modern Woman", however, a blurb in a newspaper article mentioned that "MW" stands for "whatever you want it to be" and that the fragrance was unisex. "The first modern and vigorous fragrance created for women in a line for men."

Divine by D'Orsay c1947

Launched in 1947, "Divine" by Parfums D'Orsay emerged into a world grappling with the aftermath of World War II. This era, marked by a thirst for renewal and hope, saw society embracing elegance and luxury as symbols of recovery and optimism. The post-war period was a time when fragrances were not just scents but symbols of a new beginning and a yearning for something exquisite amidst the rebuilding of everyday life.

Parfums D'Orsay chose the name "Divine" for their perfume as a deliberate nod to the divine qualities of love, beauty, and transcendent grace. The term "divine" implies something heavenly, perfect, and supremely beautiful—attributes that align perfectly with the fragrance's aspirations. In the context of love, "divine" conveys an idealized, almost otherworldly form of affection that is profound and ethereal. This name suggests that the wearer of "Divine" is enveloped in an almost celestial allure, evoking feelings of enchantment and admiration.

The name "Divine" is particularly appropriate for a perfume as it encapsulates the essence of what fragrances often seek to achieve: a sense of enchantment and an elevation of the everyday. Perfume, in its essence, aims to offer a sensory experience that transcends the ordinary, making the wearer feel exceptional and unique. By naming their fragrance "Divine," D'Orsay positioned it as more than just a scent—it's a portal to a heightened state of being.

In the realm of divination, perfumes often hold symbolic meanings and are used to evoke specific moods or presages. Just as divination seeks to offer insights into the unknown or to reveal hidden truths, a fragrance like "Divine" aims to unlock the wearer’s inner essence, projecting a persona that is both captivating and mystical. The act of wearing a perfume can be seen as a form of personal divination, where one’s scent becomes a reflection of their innermost desires and traits.

Tendre Poison by Christian Dior c1994

Tendre Poison was created by Edouard Flechier in 1994. The bottle design is the work of Veronique Monod.

Parfums Degas

Parfums Degas of Paris, France was established by Guy Degas in 1947. By 1965, they had a branch located at 1325 Fifth Avenue, New York City.

Bridal Bouquet by Dana c1961

Bridal Bouquet by Dana: launched in 1961. Some of my sources state that it was first launched in 1935, but I cannot find any period advertisements to confirm this.

Safari by Ralph Lauren c1989

Safari by Ralph Lauren, first launched in 1989 in association with Cosmair, Inc.(division of L'Oreal), was inspired by the exotic African safari.

Messire by Jean d'Albret c1961

Messire by Jean d'Albret: launched in 1961. “Messire” is an obsolete French word meaning “sire,” “master," or “squire.”

Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan c1974

Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan: launched in 1974.

Gigolo by Germaine Monteil c1951

Gigolo by Germaine Monteil, launched in 1951, is a perfume name that sparks curiosity and intrigue. The word "Gigolo" comes from the Italian and French languages, where it refers to a young man who is financially supported by an older woman in exchange for companionship, often with romantic or sexual connotations. The term gained a certain level of notoriety, suggesting a figure who is charming, seductive, and possibly a little dangerous. By choosing such a provocative name, Monteil created a fragrance that would evoke boldness and mystery—qualities that resonated with women seeking to express a more daring and confident side of their personalities.

American women in the early 1950s would have understood the meaning of the word "gigolo," especially as it had already entered popular culture through films and literature. The name "Gigolo" would likely evoke images of sophisticated men, nightlife, and a sense of alluring danger. It conjures emotions of glamour, seduction, and excitement, making it an unusual yet compelling choice for a women's fragrance. As a name for a perfume, Gigolo suggests a scent that is intoxicating and captivating, one that lingers like the memory of a forbidden romance.

In scent, "Gigolo" could be interpreted as a blend of charm and intrigue, balancing sweetness with an edge of the unexpected. Classified as a sweet, green floral fougère fragrance, this composition reflects the tension between refinement and sensuality. The green notes suggest freshness and elegance, while the sweet undertones evoke femininity and warmth. The fougère base, typically associated with masculine fragrances, introduces an element of surprise, adding depth and complexity to the scent—just as the name itself plays with contrasting ideas of femininity and seduction.

Tresor by Lancome c1952

Trésor by Lancôme: launched in 1952. The name means "Treasure" in French.

Si by Schiaparelli c1957

In 1957, when Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Si," it was a time marked by post-war optimism and a resurgence of creativity in fashion and art. The name "Si" carries a multifaceted significance that intertwines with both music and the essence of Schiaparelli herself. Derived from the "Valse des Si," a waltz composed by Henri Sauguet dedicated to Schiaparelli, "Si" resonates with musical notes, particularly the note B, and also serves as a play on the French word for "yes" and the English pronoun "it." The name cleverly incorporates the first and last letters of Schiaparelli's surname, embodying a personal touch that reflects her bold and innovative spirit.

Additionally, the association with Juliette Gréco's song "Si" adds another layer of cultural resonance. Gréco, known for her avant-garde style and artistic expression, infused the song "Si" with emotional depth and modernity, mirroring Schiaparelli's approach to fashion and fragrance. Thus, "Si" as a perfume name not only captures musical inspiration but also embodies a sense of sophistication, allure, and artistic flair that defined the era.

The choice of "Si" as a perfume name would have resonated deeply with individuals who appreciated Schiaparelli's avant-garde designs and sought to embody her unique blend of creativity and elegance. Those attracted to the perfume would likely respond with intrigue and admiration, drawn to its evocative name and the promise of a fragrance that encapsulated Schiaparelli's daring and innovative vision.

Tuscany Per Donna by Estee Lauder c1992

Tuscany Per Donna by Aramis, a division of Estee Lauder: launched in 1992. The fragrance was created by Lauder's in-house perfumer, Karyn Khoury.

Dans la Nuit by Worth c1924

Dans la Nuit by Worth: (In the Night) launched in 1922 in France, it was available in a wider distribution in 1924. This was Worth's signature fragrance; created by Maurice Blanchet; it was initially a gift to distinguished clientele of the fashion house. The perfume’s production was halted during WW2, it didn’t reach counters on US shores again until 1953.

Collecting Pink Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

Commercial bottles made up of pink glass are quite uncommon and command high prices when found. The rarest of these bottles are the stunning opaque pink crystal examples manufactured by Baccarat in the 1920s and 1930s. Baccarat enjoyed pairing the bubble gum pink glass with silver gilt trim, which for the era, was probably very avant garde and modern. To further enhance the bottles and to give them an air of luxury, enameled stopper covers were often added to the bottles.

Bambou by Weil c1934

Bambou by Weil: launched in 1934.

Midnight Poison by Christian Dior c2007

Midnight Poison by Christian Dior: created by Jacques Cavallier and Olivier Cresp of Firmenich in collaboration with Francois Demachy of LVMH in 2007.

Magie Noire by Lancome c1978

Magie Noire by Lancôme: launched in 1978. Created by Gérard Goupy. It was the first new fragrance from Lancome for a decade and has earned a place amongst its beloved classics.

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Dioressence by Christian Dior c1979

Dioressence by Christian Dior: created by Guy Robert and launched in 1969.

Dioressence was first available as a bath oil concentrate, to help condition and perfume the skin. In the same year, it was also available as body lotion, cologne spray concentre and eau parfumee spray (an eau de parfum), followed by friction lotion, foaming milk bath and hand soap. These items were sold from 1969 til 1975.

From 1979 onward, the fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette, body lotion, dusting powder, hand soap, talc, body cream, bath gel, solid perfume,

In 1982, the Dioressence Esprit de Parfum was introduced.

Kali by Dana c1943

 Kali by Dana was introduced in 1943, a time when the world was engulfed in the turmoil of World War II. In the midst of such chaos, the choice of the name "Kali" is particularly evocative, as it draws from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. The name Kali originates from the Sanskrit word "kāla," which means "black" or "time," and it is associated with the Hindu goddess Kali, a figure often depicted in duality. On one hand, she embodies destruction and darkness, famously known for slaying demons and symbolizing the fierce aspects of feminine power. On the other hand, she is revered as a compassionate mother-goddess, a protector who aids her devotees. This duality evokes a spectrum of emotions—from fear and awe to comfort and nurturing—making the name Kali both powerful and complex.

In terms of scent, Kali was classified as an oriental fragrance, a category known for its warmth and exotic depth. The name itself conjures images of rich, dark spices, velvety florals, and sensual woods, capturing the essence of both the goddess's fierce nature and her nurturing side. American women of the time, navigating a world shaped by war, may have been drawn to this fragrance not only for its aromatic qualities but also for its symbolic connotations. Kali would have offered an escape, a touch of the exotic, and a reminder of the strength inherent in femininity.

The early 1940s were marked by a growing interest in Eastern cultures, largely influenced by the global war and the influx of soldiers returning home with stories from distant lands. This fascination extended into various aspects of American life, including film, art, fashion, and perfumery. Indian aesthetics began to surface in Hollywood films, often portrayed through opulent costumes and rich narratives that showcased a world of mystique. Artists and designers drew inspiration from Indian motifs and textiles, integrating them into mainstream fashion, which helped to create a sense of allure around all things Eastern.

In the context of perfumery, the use of exotic names and ingredients became increasingly popular as fragrance houses sought to capture the imagination of consumers. The choice of a name like Kali reflected not only a burgeoning interest in Indian culture but also a desire for fragrances that resonated with deeper meanings and emotional connections. As such, Kali by Dana encapsulated a moment in time, where the complexities of war coexisted with a yearning for beauty, strength, and the exotic, offering women an olfactory experience that was both empowering and evocative.

Marathon Compacts & Vanities c1927 Advertisement

Beautiful engine turned and enameled compacts and vanities by Marathon in an advertisement from a 1927 Huntley & Co. catalog. These compacts were stated to be made up of "white gold composition silver", in other words, a white metal alloy made to look like white gold or sterling silver. 

#179 was set with "French marcasites" and an amber stone.