What are Citrus Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Citrus: 

also known as hesperidic, have the familiar, fresh, crisp scents of lemons, oranges, tangerines and grapefruit peels, as well as the more exotic of scents of bergamot, petit grain and neroli (orange blossom). Eau de Cologne is the classic citrus scent. Citrus notes are generally found in men’s colognes and women’s sporty type perfumes or colognes. There are subdivisions of classifications in this family and they are:floral chypre citrus, citrus spicy, citrus woody, citrus amber, and citrus aromatic.

Fragrances that are classified as Citrus are:

• Armani by Giorgio Armani
• Boss by Hugo Boss
• California for Men by Max Factor
• Calyx by Prescriptives
• Cool Water for Men by Davidoff
• Eau de Courreges
• Eau de Guerlain
• Eau de Rochas
• Eau de Patou by Jean Patou
• Eau Fraiche by Christian Dior
• Eau Sauvage
• Guess by Georges Marciano
• Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera
• Imperiale by Guerlain
• Lagerfeld Photo by Karl Lagerfeld
• Lauder for Men by Estee Lauder
• Listen for Men by Herb Alpert
• Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Nobile by Gucci
• O de Lancôme by Lancome
• Poison by Christian Dior
• Santa Fe for Women
• Tiffany for Men by Tiffany & Co
• Tuscany per Uomo by Aramis
• 4711

Eau Cendree by Jacomo c1974

Eau Cendrée by Jacomo, launched in 1974, is a distinctive fragrance that reflected the elegance and trends of its time. Jacomo, a luxury fragrance house, was founded in the 1960s by James Kaplan, an American, and Gérard Courtin, a Frenchman. The brand quickly established itself as a purveyor of refined, avant-garde scents. Known for creating sophisticated fragrances that pushed the boundaries of scent design, Jacomo aimed to capture the essence of modern masculinity in Eau Cendrée.

The name "Eau Cendrée" is French, pronounced "oh sahn-DRAY". Translated, it means "Ash Water" or "Gray Water," with "eau" meaning water and "cendrée" deriving from "cendre," meaning ash. The word evokes images of something cool, muted, and enigmatic—an interplay between freshness and something more grounded, smoky, or earthy. The choice of this name likely suggests a balance between lightness and depth, between clarity and something more introspective. It conjures a sense of refinement and understated elegance, appealing to a man who is both strong and reflective.

The name "Eau Cendrée" could evoke a feeling of subtle power, mystery, and maturity. Men of the 1970s, a time when individuality and personal expression were becoming more prominent, would have likely appreciated this fragrance for its quiet sophistication. In a world transitioning from the bold masculinity of previous decades, where men’s scents were often heavier and more dominant, Eau Cendrée would have struck a more nuanced chord. The title hints at something more reserved yet distinguished—ideal for the man who wanted to stand out not through brashness but through elegance.

In interpreting "Eau Cendrée" in scent, the fragrance begins with a fresh, herbaceous, and spicy top note punctuated with pimento. This burst of green and spice is invigorating, evoking feelings of vitality and crispness. The dry floral, spicy heart, featuring pepper, adds warmth and depth, offering a sharp contrast to the initial freshness. It’s the blend of coolness with fiery spice that gives the fragrance its unique character. Finally, the base of cypress, with its woody and mossy undertones, grounds the scent in a natural, earthy depth. This chypre structure, known for balancing freshness with mossy, woody tones, makes Eau Cendrée both fresh and timeless.

Parfums Carrere

Parfums Carrère was established by Maurice Bertrand Carrère at 45 rue Pierre-Charron, Paris in 1945. They only produced a small range of perfumes. However, the company was not commercially successful and subsequently, closed soon after.

Asja by Fendi c1991

Asja by Fendi: launched in 1991, in association with Parma. It was created by Jean Guichard.

My Islands Colognes by Colton c1967

The My Islands colognes came out in 1967 as the women's counterpart to Nine Flags, and were also manufactured by Colton, distributed in the UK by Gillette. There were six different colognes named after famous islands.

 "Something happens to a girl on an island; My Islands colognes by Colton."

 

Fashion de Leonard c1970

Fashion de Leonard: launched in 1970. Created by Jeannine Mongin. In USA in 1971.

Bittersweet by Ed Pinaud c1930

Bittersweet by Pinaud: launched in 1930.

Collecting Green Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of green glass. The allure of these bottles lies not only in their aesthetic appeal but also in the history and craftsmanship behind them. Most of the bottles in this guide date to the 1920s and 1930s period.

Starting a collection with a specific focus, such as green glass perfume bottles, can add a unique dimension to your hobby. It provides a clear direction and allows you to curate a cohesive and visually stunning collection.

When embarking on this journey, consider exploring various sources such as antique shops, flea markets, online auctions, and specialized collector forums. You may encounter a diverse range of designs, from simple and utilitarian to ornate and intricately decorated bottles.

It's essential to educate yourself about the different styles, manufacturers, and historical context surrounding these bottles. This knowledge will not only enhance your appreciation for the pieces you acquire but also help you make informed decisions when assessing their value and authenticity.

As your collection grows, documenting each acquisition with details such as the maker, design characteristics, and acquisition date can enrich your understanding of the evolving trends in perfume bottle design and production.

Additionally, connecting with fellow collectors can be a rewarding aspect of the hobby. Exchanging insights, sharing discoveries, and participating in community events or exhibitions can deepen your engagement with the subject and foster meaningful connections with like-minded enthusiasts.

Remember, collecting is as much about the joy of discovery and appreciation as it is about the tangible objects themselves. So, immerse yourself in the enchanting world of green glass perfume bottles, and let your collection reflect your passion and individual style!. 

This is not a complete list as there are probably hundreds of others to be found, if you have one not listed and would like to share a photo, please let me know and I will include it here.

Hope by Frances Denney c1952

Hope by Frances Denney was launched in 1952.

Verrerie Lefebure et Cie

Verreries & Cristalleries Lefebure & Cie established in 1806, 5 rue Mazet, Paris, France. 

Exclusive suppliers to the Grandes Parfumeries de Paris for real crystal bottles with unalterable gold or silver metal cap.

Rich bottles for Luxury Perfumery.  The perfume bottles for Rosine were produced by Depinoix and Lefebure et Cie as well as Poiret's own companies Atelier Colin & Atelier Martine.

Rigaud used a Lefebure flacon for Un Air Embaumee. 

c1912

Votre by Charles Jourdan c1978

Vôtre by Charles Jourdan: launched in 1978. Created by Jean-Louis Sieuzac.

PERFUME HACK - Removing Perfume Stains

Did you spill perfume or cologne on your favorite dress or did your cat knock over your best bottle of perfume onto the carpet? Here are some quick and easy tips to remove those stains!

From Fabrics:

Helpful Tip: Treat stains as soon as possible after staining. The older the stain, the more difficult it will be to remove. Perfumes often contain both alcohol and oils, as well as dyes, any of which can leave a stain. All stain removal methods should be applied prior to laundering washable garments. Stains that have been laundered and dried are almost impossible to remove. Always test a cleaning solution on a small, out-of-the-way area first to look for any adverse reaction.

Caution: Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia - fumes are hazardous.

For Washable Fabrics:

What you will need

• Liquid hand dishwashing detergent
• White vinegar
• Rubbing alcohol
• Enzyme presoak product
• Chlorine bleach or oxygen bleach

Steps to Clean:

1. Soak for 15 minutes in mixture of one quart lukewarm water, one-half teaspoon liquid hand dishwashing detergent and one tablespoon white vinegar. Rinse.
2. Sponge with rubbing alcohol, using light motions from center to edge of stain.
3. Soak for 30 minutes in one quart warm water with one tablespoon enzyme presoak products.
4. If color stain remains, launder in chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or in oxygen bleach.

Carpet:

What you will need:

• White vinegar
• Detergent
• 3% Hydrogen peroxide

Steps to Clean:

1. Blot with a white paper towel to remove as much of the stain as possible, then neutralize with a white vinegar solution (1/3 cup WHITE vinegar in 2/3 cup of water). Saturate spot with white vinegar solution, using a spray bottle and blot to remove excess moisture.
2. Apply a small quantity of detergent solution to the spot. (To make the detergent solution mix 1/4 teaspoon of a hand dishwashing detergent which does not contain lanolin or bleach with 1 quart of water) Use a blotting motion to work the detergent into the affected area. If spot is being removed continue applying detergent and blotting with a white paper towel until spot is removed.
3. Rinse with tap water using a spray bottle, blot to remove excess moisture.
4. Spray lightly with water, do not blot this time; apply pad of paper towels and brick and allow to dry.
5. If there is still some stain on the carpet and blotting is not removing it, then moisten the tufts in the stained area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let stand for on (1) hour. Blot and repeat until carpet is stain free. Light will cause peroxide to change back to water so no rinsing is necessary. Apply pad of paper towels and weight down with brick.

Or

What you will need

• Detergent
• White vinegar

Steps to Clean:

1. Using clean white paper towels, blot up as much of the stain as possible.
2. Use plain water or mix one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and one tablespoon of white vinegar with two cups of warm water.
3. Using a clean white cloth, sponge the stain with a small amount of water or the detergent/vinegar solution. Apply a little bit at a time, blotting frequently with a dry cloth until the stain disappears.
4. If using a detergent/vinegar solution, sponge with cold water and blot dry to remove the solution.

Upholstery:

What you will need:

• Dry cleaning solvent

Steps to Clean:

1. Using a clean white cloth, sponge the stain with the dry cleaning solvent.
2. Blot until the solvent is absorbed.
3. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the stain disappears.

Other Surfaces:

Removing Perfume Stains From Wood:

• To remove perfume stains from the wooden top of your vanity table, rub a little olive oil over the spots. Then rub with a fresh, soft cloth to remove excess oil. 

Removing Perfume from Ceramic Tile:

• Step 1: Blot the perfume spill with paper towels or absorbent rags to remove most of the liquid. Do not wipe the perfume, which may spread oil and fragrance beyond the affected area.

• Step 2: Pour baking soda over the spill area. Allow the baking soda to absorb the liquid and oil from the perfume for five to ten minutes. Sweep it up with a broom and dustpan. Apply more baking soda to the perfume spill until the baking soda no longer wicks up any liquid or oil. Remove the last application of baking soda from the ceramic tile using your broom and dustpan.

• Step 3: Fill a bucket with warm water and add one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. Stir the soapy solution with your hands to mix.

• Step 4: Saturate a clean cloth with the soapy solution. Wipe the ceramic tile at the site of the spill. The dishwashing detergent will remove any remaining oils from the perfume. Dampen a clean cloth with water and rinse the tile. - info from Hunker.com

Some info suggested by the University of Illinois.

Toujours Toi by Corday c1951

Toujours Toi by Corday: launched in 1951. The name means "Always You" in French and is a flanker to Toujours Moi (Always Me) perfume.

Vintage Boudoirs of the Stars - Part 7

 Here are more fabulous images of dressing tables of the past! I have tried to identify all the perfumes in each photo, but sometimes the images are just too small for me to make them out.

Mary Brian holding Le Chick Chick by Vigny, and sitting at her vanity featuring various atomizers on her vanity as well as commercial bottles. On the bottom shelf, I spy Golliwogg by Vigny, Serre Fleurie by Corday, Arlequinade by Rosine, and the box for Porte Bonheur by D'Orsay. The third shelf down holds either L'Heure Bleue or Mitsouko by Guerlain, Des Jardins de Muse by Fioret, Narcisse Noir by Caron, and unknown bottles along with a Volupte atomizer. The second shelf down displays Le Dandy by D'Orsay, and Porte Bonheur by D'Orsay hiding behind it, and one Volupte atomizer, a DeVilbiss atomizer and an Italian Murano glass perfume bottle. The top shelf has the matching Murano perfume bottle along with a nice French atomizer.  

Austro-Hungarian actress Vilma Banky (1902-1991) at her dressing table. A tall DeVilbiss atomizer is in the center, along with plenty of cut glass perfume bottles and a powder jars.

Huge French atomizer with probably Marcel Franck hardware. c1920s.

Ginger Rogers in Professional Sweetheart, notice the pretty Czech bottles on her vanity. 

Grace Bradley, 1935, with perfumes on her vanity including Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi by Caron, and either Mitsouko or L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain (with a stopper for Narcisse Noir by Caron inside!) also notice the gorgeous large Czech crystal perfume bottles, atomizerand a hufe French swansdown powderpuff on handle.

Choc de Cardin by Pierre Cardin c1981

Choc de Cardin by Pierre Cardin: launched in 1981. Created by Françoise Caron. The name of the perfume means "shock" in French.

Chicane by Jacomo c1971

Launched in 1971, Chicane by Parfums Jacomo carries a name that evokes intrigue and sophistication. The term "chicane" is derived from French, where it refers to a sharp turn in a racetrack, pronounced as "she-kahn." This connotation of speed, agility, and the thrill of navigating a winding path conjures images of excitement and adventure. The name likely resonates with a sense of elegance and dynamism, appealing to women of the era who embraced both the modernity of the 1970s and the allure of refined femininity. In a time characterized by cultural shifts and the emergence of bold fashion statements, Chicane encapsulated the spirit of a generation that was eager to explore new identities and experiences.

The fragrance itself is classified as a floral aldehyde, an olfactory category that gained prominence during this period. Starting with an aldehydic top, Chicane opens with a sparkling freshness that creates an invigorating first impression, reminiscent of the lively spirit of the early '70s. As it unfolds, the heart reveals an elegant bouquet of jasmine and rose sourced from Grasse, which adds a lush, romantic quality. This floral harmony speaks to the era's appreciation for both classic and contemporary aesthetics, reflecting a sophisticated approach to femininity. The base notes of sandalwood and cedar provide a warm, woody foundation that rounds out the fragrance with a powdery softness, creating a harmonious balance that lingers alluringly.

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior c1994

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior: created by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger and launched in 1994.

Racarma

R. A. Carmichael & Co., manufacturing chemists of Detroit, placed on the market a new, high-grade line of toilet preparations under the trade name "Racarma" in 1915.

Sans Adieu by Worth c1929

Sans Adieu by Worth: launched in 1929.

Gymkana by Jean Desses c1960

In the 1960s, the concept of masculinity was deeply intertwined with themes of ruggedness, adventure, and tradition. Equestrianism, particularly in the context of sports and leisure activities, symbolized these ideals. Men were often portrayed as strong, assertive figures, embodying qualities of athleticism and sophistication. Films of the era often featured themes of horse racing, polo matches, and competitive riding, such as "National Velvet" (1944) and "The Horse Soldiers" (1959), which resonated with audiences and reinforced these ideals of masculinity.

Jean Desses, in naming his men's fragrance "Gymkana," drew upon this cultural backdrop. The word "Gymkana" itself originates from the Hindi word "jimkhana," meaning a place where sporting events take place, typically equestrian or athletic in nature. This term, adapted into English as "gymkhana," evokes images of skill, agility, and competition — qualities that align well with the active and confident persona associated with masculinity in the 1960s.

Choosing "Gymkana" as the name for a men's fragrance was a strategic decision. It not only evoked a sense of adventure and sportiness but also hinted at tradition and heritage, appealing to men who identified with these qualities. The scent would likely resonate with men of the time period, offering them a way to embody and express their idealized masculine identity through fragrance.

Theorema by Fendi c1998

In 1998, the time period in which Fendi launched "Theorema," the cultural landscape was influenced by a blend of optimism and sophistication. The late 1990s marked a period of technological advancement and economic prosperity in many parts of the world, fostering a sense of innovation and forward-thinking. This era also saw a resurgence of interest in retro styles and a celebration of individuality and self-expression.

In the realm of cinema, films often reflected this mix of nostalgia and modernity. Themes of mystery, elegance, and intellectual intrigue were prominent. Movies like "Eyes Wide Shut" (1999) directed by Stanley Kubrick and "The Matrix" (1999) directed by the Wachowskis explored complex ideas and realities, contributing to a cultural milieu where a fragrance like "Theorema" could find resonance.

Fendi's choice of the name "Theorema" for their perfume is intriguing. The word "Theorema" derives from Greek and Latin roots, referring to a proposition or theorem in mathematics and philosophy, embodying a sense of intellectual exploration and discovery. Naming a perfume "Theorema" suggests a blend of mystery, elegance, and intellectual allure, appealing to individuals who appreciate depth and sophistication in their fragrances.

For women of the late 1990s, "Theorema" would likely evoke a sense of empowerment and sophistication. The name suggests a perfume that is not merely a fragrance but an experience—an exploration of ideas and emotions. Women might be drawn to its enigmatic qualities and the promise of a scent that stimulates both the senses and the intellect.

The response to "Theorema" would likely be positive among women who seek uniqueness and sophistication in their perfume choices. The name itself conjures images of ancient manuscripts, mathematical symbols, and perhaps even the allure of the unknown, tapping into a desire for something distinctive and thought-provoking.

"Theorema" is indeed a unique name for a perfume. It stands out among the more traditional and descriptive names common in the fragrance industry, offering a blend of intellectualism and mystery that is rarely found in perfume branding. It suggests a narrative, inviting wearers to engage with the fragrance on a deeper level.

Ultimately, the word "Theorema" could be interpreted as a metaphor for the transformative power of scent—a theorem that unfolds differently on each wearer, revealing layers of emotion and experience. It encapsulates the idea of fragrance as more than just a cosmetic product, but as an expression of individuality and intrigue.

In summary, "Theorema" by Fendi, launched in 1998, reflects a time period of cultural curiosity and sophistication. Its name suggests intellectual allure and mystery, appealing to women who seek a fragrance that embodies depth and individuality. The word "Theorema" evokes images of exploration and discovery, making it a uniquely compelling choice for a perfume that promises to stimulate both the senses and the mind.

Chant Du Coeur by Shiseido c1992

Chant Du Coeur by Shiseido: launched in 1992. The fragrance, created by Edouard Flechier and manufactured in France was marketed in Japan. The name means "Song of the Heart" in French.

Vicky Tiel by Vicky Tiel c1990

Vicky Tiel by Vicky Tiel: launched in 1990. In USA in 1991. Also known as "Vicky Tiel Originale".

Vicky Tiel is an American fashion designer who gained prominence for her glamorous and sophisticated designs. Her foray into the world of fragrances was a natural extension of her brand, which epitomizes elegance and luxury.

Parfum d'Ete by Kenzo c1992

Parfum d'Été by Kenzo: launched in 1992. Created by Christian Mathieu of IFF/Tamaris S.A.

The name means "Perfume of Summer" in French, summer just happens to be Kenzo's favourite season.

Parfumerie Hera

Parfumerie Hera, also known as Parfums Hera, established by Marthe-Jeanne Thibault at 81-83 rue de Cherzy, Neuilly, Seine in 1910; cosmetic, perfumes and toiletries. The company also sold gold tipped "Egyptian Soir d'Orient" cigarettes. The company lasted until the late 1920s.

c1919

Je Reviens by Worth c1932

Je Reviens by Worth: launched in 1932. Created by Maurice Blanchet.

Kai Sang by Corday c1924

Kai Sang by Corday: launched in 1924. The name may mean "To Be Triumphant" in Chinese.

Naomi by Naomi Sims c1979

Naomi by Naomi Sims: launched in 1979. It was created by Roure Bertrand Dupont, Inc.

Jaipur by Boucheron c1994

Jaipur by Boucheron: launched in 1994. Created by Sophia Grojsman and Jean-Pierre Mary. The perfume was named after a village in India that was once home to the Maharajah of Patiala.

Paradis by Saks Fifth Avenue c1982

Paradis by Saks Fifth Avenue: launched in 1982. Paradis was Sak's own private label perfume, which they claimed was created to be a reflection of Saks Fifth Avenue and the Saks Fifth Avenue woman. This is not the first time that a department store launched their own fragrance line, Neiman Marcus brought out Volage and NM, Bloomingdales had it's Bloomie's.

Elysium by Clarins c1993

Elysium by Clarins: launched in 1993.

Myth of Saso by Shiseido c1980

Myth of Saso: launched in 1980. It is dedicated to the ancient legend of the beautiful queen Kohi.

 

Parfum Rare by Jacomo c1985

Parfum Rare by Jacomo: launched in 1985. Created by IFF.

Misha by Mikhail Baryshnikov c1989

Misha by Mikhail Baryshnikov 1989. His nickname; in association with Richard Barrie Fragrances.

Daniel de Fasson by Daniel de Fasson c1990

Daniel de Fasson by Daniel de Fasson: launched in 1990 in association with Parlux SA. . Also known as Daniel de Fasson pour Femme.

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey c1924

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey: launched in 1924. Originally created by perfumer Jean Jacques as a woman's perfume.

The name evoking the ancient Tunisian city of Carthage.

L’Ardente Nuit by Corday c1930

L’Ardente Nuit by Corday: launched in 1930. The name means "The Fiery Night" in French. It was suggested to be worn with "rich fabrics and furs."

Adolfo by Frances Denney c1978

Adolfo by Frances Denney: launched in 1978. Created as the signature fragrance for Adolfo Sardina, the Cuban born fashion designer.  He had a salon at 36 East 57th Street in New York.  Sardina, who has never used his surname professionally, started designing hats in New York in the early 1950's and opened a millinery salon in 1963.

Intoxication by D'Orsay c1938

In 1938, the world was on the brink of World War II, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression still palpable. This was a period marked by a desire for escapism and glamour amidst uncertainties and hardships. The fashion and beauty industries often responded to such times by offering products that promised a temporary reprieve from reality, allowing people to indulge in fantasies and pleasures. "Intoxication" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched during this era, embodying this very spirit of escapism and allure. Notably, this was also a few years after the end of Prohibition in the United States, a time when society was embracing newfound freedoms and celebrating the return of legal alcohol consumption, which added to the zeitgeist of indulgence and revelry.

Parfums D'Orsay choosing the name "Intoxication" for their perfume speaks volumes about the emotional and sensory experience they aimed to evoke. The word "intoxication" suggests a state of being overwhelmed by powerful feelings or sensations, often associated with love and passion. In connection with love, "intoxication" conveys the idea of being so deeply enamored and consumed by another person that one feels a heady, almost dizzying sense of euphoria. This is an apt metaphor for a fragrance, which has the power to evoke strong emotional responses and create lasting impressions. In the context of the post-Prohibition era, the name also hints at a liberated, joyous embrace of pleasure and indulgence.

"Intoxication" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the transformative and alluring nature of fragrances. Perfume can create an almost magical effect, enhancing one's presence and evoking deep-seated emotions and memories. A scent that claims to intoxicate suggests that it can captivate and enthrall, much like the feeling of falling in love or being swept away by a powerful emotion. The end of Prohibition had seen a resurgence in nightlife and social gatherings, where people sought to enjoy themselves freely, and a perfume named "Intoxication" would perfectly complement this atmosphere of revelry.

In the context of perfumery, "Intoxication" relates to the concept of creating a compelling and irresistible fragrance. Perfumers aim to craft scents that can evoke strong, almost addictive responses. The name implies that the perfume has a potent and unforgettable quality, designed to leave a lasting impression on those who encounter it.

"Intoxication, the champagne fragrance that whispers 'Someone lovely has just passed by' wearing Intoxication".

Diorling by Christian Dior c1963

Diorling by Christian Dior: created by Paul Vacher and launched in 1963. The name Diorling was a play on Darling. Christian Dior adored all things British and this was his take on how the upper classes pronounced Darling.